Blue skies, perfect mountain weather and hardly a cloud in sight. The studs on my front wheel dig into the ochre trail and yet I don't feel completely at ease: you can barely see two bike lengths away. It's already mid-October, but the hot summer has not yet been digested in the Engadin and the rain has been a long time coming. Everything is yellow, sandy and desolate. I can only make out Leo, the man in front of me, in the cloud of dust. We had expected a lot, in mid-October at around 3000 metres. Rain, the first snow on the peaks, icy winds. But who would have thought that the heat and dryness would slow us down...
The man from the Isle of Skye and the "Home of Trails"
However, the story of this journey actually begins in a completely different place. In a country that may be famous for its yellow heather hills, but certainly not for its dry climate. Scotland is the home of trials ace and YouTube star Danny MacAskill. Also one of his last videos from April 2018 - Home of Trails - now has a good two million clicks on YouTube. No comparison with the 90 million clicks of video hits such as "Imaginate"but still astonishing. After all, the whole thing was more of a well-disguised and funny PR campaign by the people of Graubünden.
The clip presents Switzerland's largest canton as a mountain bike mecca in a visually stunning way. Flowing trails, epic descents, Danny-like stunts, fine food, spectacular sunrises and everything surrounded by a panorama that will take your breath away. Too good to be true? We want to find out. Four days in Graubünden are planned for this. First in Celerina near St. Moritz, then in Scuol in the Lower Engadine. This means we can cover most of the spots in the video in a short space of time and still leave the car at home. Because the transport between the two locations is provided by the Rhaetian Railway.
Up to 3000 metres in 60 minutes - an orgy of bends below the Trais Fluors
But planning with public transport also has its disadvantages. The transfer always takes a little longer than by car and so our schedule is tight. We can't afford to dawdle if we want to complete our programme in four days. So we are the very first to jump off the train, quickly throw our luggage into the hotel and are back on our bikes barely half an hour later. A cable car takes us up from Celerina, then we have to pedal ourselves. The map said "pram path", but no such luck. The gravel ramp is really steep and the electronic helpers already indicate an altitude of 2500 metres. The air is getting thin for two unacclimatised lowland Tyroleans whose last interval training was a few years ago.
But the panorama makes up for it and the climb doesn't last forever. With burning lungs, we board the second gondola and only moments later the cable car spits us out again on the Piz Nair, St. Moritz's 3000 metre high local mountain and sunrise spot for the Danny video. A quick (and admittedly undeserved) summit photo with ibex "Gianni" and off we go on the trail. For route planning purposes, the Graubünden Tourism's own app for usebut also the big internet platforms á la Trailforks,
and Herbert-Bike offer a wide range of touring equipment for the region.
Panoramic tour with trail fun below the Piz Nair
The direction in which the app navigates us is correct, but the tour description clearly understates the panorama. The path takes us as far as a small reservoir to the north-east of the summit, then we climb another 400 metres in altitude on a rocky trail towards Trais Fluors, pass another ridge after half an hour and are in a paradise of bends. The mountain landscape stretches out in front of us, while the path swings down the ridge in front of our bikes. Just take it easy, because the surface offers surprisingly little grip in dry conditions and the rear wheel often slips through the tight bends, even if you actually wanted to avoid it - for the sake of the environment and trail protection.
Three climate zones in one hour - Trais Fluors, Poschiavo, Val Suvretta
The trail captivates us and as such, it doesn't stay alone. In two and a half days around St. Moritz, we take on the big loop via Pontresina to Poschiavo with a detour to the Rifugio Sassal Masone, as well as all the flow trails on the Corviglia and the challenging trail through the Val Suvretta. The latter in particular, as well as the curved trail below the Trais Fluors and the detour behind the Rifugio Sassal Masone will stay with us for a long time. The trails are bumpy and challenging, but not just for absolute pros. The panoramic views will leave you salivating and some of the descents don't want to end.
The flow trails, on the other hand, are well built and also offer beginners good opportunities to get to grips with the sport. Unfortunately, stones, roots and other natural obstacles have been almost completely removed from the trails, which is not always met with enthusiasm - but good: these are specially designed flow trails and you can't please everyone.
So at least there is something for everyone. The infrastructure, which is geared towards the masses of skiers, copes with summer tourism without any problems and ensures that everything runs smoothly if you want to use one of the numerous lifts to gain more vertical metres. And last but not least, the region is no stranger to trail maintenance. We searched in vain for braking grooves or washed-out passages, even at the end of a long season. Only the signposting, away from the official main routes (flow trails, Poschiavo circuit), could be improved so that you can leave your GPS device in your pocket permanently.
Scuol - wilderness in the border region
Scuol and St. Moritz are barely 50 kilometres apart. But when we jump out of the train again after a good hour's journey on the third day of our trip, we immediately realise that everything is different in Scuol. Autumn is just beginning here in October, the trees are greener, everything is wilder and more untamed. The small town nestles almost fearfully against the slopes of the deep Inn Valley. With its church pointing defiantly towards the distant sky like a short finger.
A guide tells us that Scuol used to be a smuggler's paradise, like almost every mountain region near the border. Ten kilometres to the north and you're in Austria, ten kilometres to the south and you've reached Italy. In between, however, there is a vast landscape of peaks through which only a few paths suitable for bikers lead. But it is precisely the contrast to the Upper Engadin with its wide, open landscapes that is the attraction of our endeavour. There is only one cable car here in October and this is the one that takes us up from the village towards Alp Clünas the next morning.
Morning atmosphere on the Alp Clünas
Our guide Werni from Supertrailrides is a veteran of Scuol and has put his connections to good use for our early ascent. In the very first gondola, we float up into the air at half past seven together with the cable car staff. From there, we travel a little further up by jeep so that we arrive at Alp Clünas shortly after sunrise and can enjoy and capture the morning atmosphere in all its splendour. At least that's the plan.
But the clouds hang thickly over the valley, the sky shows only shades of black and grey and literally presses down on the peaks on the horizon. Not a trace of sunshine. I'm sitting in the jeep and I'm already feeling sick thinking about the photos we'll be taking later. But as soon as we unload the bikes from the back of the jeep, St Peter has mercy and just in time for sunrise, the black sky opens up and envelops us in a dramatic, golden light.
Perhaps a good omen. Because the trail that follows and takes us over Alp Clünas and Alp Laret is also a tough one. At the top, we ride at high speed across the treeless meadows, then the trail becomes narrower and winds its way northwards along the mountainside, while the descent to the wild mountain river Tasnan is technical and rocky. A picturesque wooden bridge carries us over the river, and further down we come across the twin stone bridges at Pra da Punt, which Danny MacAskill's rear wheels have already felt on their backs. We don't jump from bridge to bridge, however, as there is a steep descent between the crossings and a mistake here is certainly fatal. It's unbelievable what the Scotsman dares to do!
Forest trails on the black lake
The descent with a subsequent detour via a curved trail to the east of Motta Naluns takes up the rest of the morning. But there are also more trails waiting for us on the south side of the village. Most of them lie above the Laj Nairs, which lives up to its name "Black Lake". Werni, our guide from the morning, now plays shuttle and takes us a good 300 metres up, after which his colleague Xaver takes the lead, keeping us entertained on the transfer with stories of bikers, smugglers and customs officers, before leading us across green, open meadows into the pine forest.
The tour and journey end after a treat of flowing and easy forest trails at the bridge over the Inn, from where a short transfer takes us to the refreshing fountain in the centre of Scuol. In true Danny MacAskill spirit, fellow rider Leo celebrates the end of our journey with a little stunt on the fountain wall. But not everyone is blessed with Danny MacAskill's talent and so the child ends up in the fountain in the truest sense of the word.
Graubünden: a worthy home of trails?
It should come as no surprise that at least the two spots in St. Moritz and Scuol definitely live up to the "Home of Trails" seal. There are good trails in both destinations, far more than we were able to try out in four days! While St. Moritz scores with its open, free landscape and great infrastructure, Scuol is definitely wilder, but that also has its charm. Families and beginners are not so well catered for here, but for more experienced riders it is an absolute highlight. Endless trails, a fantastic panorama and the proximity to other hotspots such as Nauders or Livigno ensure that Scuol has a regular clientele that has been loyal to the village for years. However, you will look in vain for signposting and maps with the relevant routes for Scuol. If you are travelling without a guide, you should prepare yourself well in advance so that you don't miss out on the best trails.
The trails in detail
Celerina - Trais Fluors - panoramic loop (3h 30min, 420m, 1470tm, 15.7km)
From Celerina to the Marguns cable car, then on the "pram path" (190 m ascent, max. 18 per cent gradient) to the Corviglia cable car. Head west on Piz Nair, then keep right to reach Fuorcla Schlattain and Lej Alv. From there, head back uphill via the Chamanna Saluver towards the Trais-Fluors saddle. The descent then follows the trail below the Trais Flours. At the T-junction, turn left onto the panoramic trail and then take a sharp right to reach the steep hairpin bend trail that leads down the slope between Samedan and Celerina in a direct line to the east-southeast (clearly recognisable on maps - beware, some parts are classified as S3). From there, take any route back to Celerina.
Celerina - Poschiavo - Celerina loop (5h, 290m, 2020tm, 41.5km)
From Celerina on the cycle path to Pontresina, then take the train towards the Bernina Pass. On the Bernina Pass, follow the path towards Rifugio Sassal Masone, from there descend towards Alp Grüm (first section rocky and technical - S2), then continue towards Poschiavo. The trails here tend to be fast and flowy and are suitable for almost all levels of rider. Poschiavo is a good place for a lunch break, then take the railway back up to the Bernina Pass and follow the signposted trail descent towards Pontresina. From there, take the cycle path back to Celerina. Alternatively, it is also worth taking a short detour towards Lej da Staz at the end to descend from there towards Celerina (plus approx. 30 minutes, 110 metres, 3 km).
Piz Nair - Val Suvretta and flow trails (2h 15min, 120hm, 1300tm, 15.2km)
This tour starts at the top of Piz Nair, which can be easily reached from St. Moritz directly by mountain railway or from Celerina by mountain railway and a short pedal section (see Celerina Trais Fluors loop). From the summit, follow the gravel track westwards, then keep left and follow the trail, which runs almost along the shore of Lake Suvretta to the south-west and then bends to the south-east (partly rocky up to S2 with a nasty rock garden). From there, take the Fopettas flow trail towards the valley. It is a good idea to combine this trail with a few laps on the World Cup or Olympic Flowtrail, both of which are easily accessible with the mountain railway from St. Moritz towards Corviglia. As an alternative to the Suvretta Trail, you can also follow the slightly less challenging S1 Trail, which swings westwards along the southern flank of the Piz Nair. This trail ends directly at the Corviglia.
Scuol - Alp Clünas - Motta Naluns Trail (4h, 760hm, 1690tm, 27.3km)
From Scuol-Tarasp, take the mountain railway towards Motta Naluns, then pedal up to Alp Clünas. From there, descend via Alp Laret and Alp Valmala towards Ftan (trail before Alp Valmala partly rocky up to S2). At a hairpin bend, the trail leads back onto the road. Here you will find the twin bridges over the Tasnan mountain river from the Danny MacAskill video. From there, head uphill towards Ftan, then on towards Motta Naluns. The trail descent here is on the slope above the Clozza and winds its way back down to the valley in many tight bends (S1 to S2, with a key section at S3).
Laj Nair Trails (1h 30min, 11km, 430hm)
From Scoul, follow the roads and forest tracks to Laj Nair, from there a good 500 metres to the south-west, then take a sharp left and follow the traverse to the west. Follow the descent back to Scuol (winding but easy singletrail with some forest road sections). If you keep to the right in the lower section, you will be served the somewhat crisper line, while the tamer route runs to the left.
Adrian Kaether
Editor
