The Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau, lined up like crystals on a string of pearls. Oh! What a fantastic panorama - if only we could see the famous Alpine massif. Gloomy clouds billow over the Bernese mountain backdrop, which was already praised by Goethe. After all, he was not the only one to be inspired by the cosiest capital in the world to write enthusiastic eulogies. Hermann Hesse, for example, lived here for a few years in exile, and it was in Bern that Albert Einstein discovered the theory of relativity. The Bernese poet Jeremias Gotthelf praised the city as having "something majestic about it". Its towers "rise proudly into the sky, and its squares are full of life and history". Also: "Toblerone" was invented here.
City tour instead of Alpine panorama
None of this helps when the first raindrops hit our cycling gear. We ask ourselves: "What to do?" The answer is provided by another Bernese writer: "Where would we go if everyone said where we were going and nobody went to see where we would go if we did?" With these words from Kurt Marti, our decision is clear: we'll just set off - and scrap our original plan.
We actually wanted to take the train to the nearby Emmental valley and take our e-bikes on a fabulous Alpine panorama tour of the Emmental valley's high altitudes, as advertised by the tourism company. But with zero visibility, this really makes no sense. Instead, we opt for a tour around the city. The tour is called the "Green Belt of Bern" - sounds promising.
First of all, we pick up our rental bikes from the Thömus shop in the city centre. Mathias Bogedein manages the branch of the Swiss bike manufacturer, which produces high-end bikes in the small village of Oberried, south-west of Bern. Born in Berlin, he has lived in the Swiss capital since 2016 - and has now fully settled in Bern, "because I was able to turn my passion for cycling into a career here".
Hardly any other capital city in Europe combines urban flair and cycling against a magnificent mountain backdrop as well as Bern, enthuses Mathias. "As a cyclist, you simply have an incredible number of options here, regardless of whether you want it to be a bit flat or whether you really want to cycle up and down." The people of Bern are also "really bike-friendly. There may be the odd prohibition sign in the old town, but they're always smiled away."
His tour tip: "Make sure you try the route to the Bantiger - it's a challenging route, but the view is worth it!" We don't need to be told twice.
Old town in top condition
But our first route takes us through the historic old town. The medieval buildings, the cobblestones, the many historic fountains - it's no wonder that UNESCO has recognised the first-class condition of Bern's history and declared the entire old town a World Heritage Site. But if you like it lonely, you've come to the wrong place.
Our e-bikes glide effortlessly along the streets, and it would be even smoother if it weren't for the hordes of Bern tourists from all over the world who block the view of the sights. Admittedly, this is a somewhat hypocritical criticism, as we are not only blocking the way with ourselves, but also with our e-bikes - Swiss-brand bikes, after all, which are as high-quality as the famous Swiss watch movements. Speaking of which, we visit one of them in the famous Zytglogge tower in the Old Town: the clockwork dates back to around 1530!
We soon reach the Aare, the river that meanders around the city. It's far too cool for the classic dip in the emerald green water, so we leave the city behind us and immerse ourselves in the greenery. The rain has cleared, the landscape becomes more hilly and the lush green of the meadows and forests surrounds us. Passing traditional farms and fields full of poppies and cornflowers, we soon feel like we are in a pure postcard idyll.
The silence at the end
The Green Belt really deserves its name: the route takes us all the way round Bern - including a few hills that make us work up a sweat despite the motor. You drive out of the city and are suddenly in a rural idyll, where ancient, mighty farms stand next to modern houses. This mixture makes it special, but you can still sense the original rural feeling.
A real highlight is the climb to the Bantiger, which lies to the north of Bern, at the very end of our day's tour: the ascent is steep, but the e-bike supports us and we virtually fly uphill. Once we reach the top, I am greeted by a panorama that takes my breath away, even without the Alpine view: Bern lies below us, framed by green Alpine foothills. We enjoy the silence, let our gaze wander into the distance - and even the sun comes out again!
The way back is really fun. The fast descent makes our hearts beat faster. Back in Bern, we treat ourselves to an ice cream at the Gelateria an der Aare - another tip from Mathias - and watch the people enjoying the day as much as we are. And one thing is clear to us now: Bern is worth a trip - no matter what the weather does. Where else would we go?
MYBIKE insider tip 1: The Bernese are bike-friendly
3 questions for... Mathias Bogedein, shop manager at the Thömus bike shop in Bern
MYBIKE: Mr Bogedein, what makes cycling in and around Bern particularly attractive?
Mathias BogedeinCycling here is really great, whether you live in the city or outside. You have countless options, whether it's flat or really up and down, like in the Emmental. You're also very well connected thanks to the railway station and can be in Italy or Valais in three and a half hours.
What is the infrastructure like for cyclists in Bern?
In general, Switzerland and Bern are very bike-friendly. We have added many cycle routes in recent years. SwitzerlandMobility even offers special Swiss cycle routes. There are also many racing cyclists in Bern who let off steam on the routes towards Emmental or around Lake Thun. The local mountain Gurten is also popular, and the ascent starts right on the outskirts of the city.
What is your personal experience of cycling in Bern?
I'm from Berlin and have always loved cycling. I've lived in Bern since 2016 and really enjoy it. The people of Bern are really bike-friendly. There may be the odd prohibition sign in the old town, but they always smile it away. A special tip from me is the Belpberg, where you have a fantastic view at sunrise.
MYBIKE insider tip 2: The region offers many possibilities
3 questions for... Charlotte Brandt from the Veloplus bike shop in Bern
MYBIKE: Ms Brandt, what are your favourite routes in the Bern region?
Charlotte BrandtI'm mainly out and about on my road bike, whether I'm travelling towards the Emmental or the Gantrisch. You can actually ride anywhere on an e-bike, whether on the road or on gravel paths. The region offers many possibilities.
How do you feel about the behaviour of car drivers towards cyclists?
In Bern, car drivers are mostly respectful. Sometimes you have to take your place as a cyclist and not be afraid. Overall, I haven't had many bad experiences here, but when I come back from Spain, for example, where people are extremely respectful, I ask myself: what's going on here?
Do you have a favourite place to cycle in Bern?
My favourite mountain is the Bantiger. When the weather is nice, you have a great view from there. The routes around Bern are very varied and lead through a mixture of rural and urban surroundings.
2 day tours for a city trip to Bern
Tour characteristics
Cycling in Bern offers a mix of urban and rural landscapes. There is a lot going on in Bern, but the city can be explored in a relaxed manner by bike. The surrounding countryside is characterised by small villages, rolling hills and the odd mountain road with views of fields, forests and the Alps. You mostly cycle on little-used roads. Bern and the surrounding area are ideal for e-bikes due to the longer but moderate climbs and descents. The Gantrisch Nature Park is close by, as are the Emmental and Lake Thun... everything is within easy reach of the S-Bahn, which greatly expands the radius for cycle tours. The cycle routes are well signposted.
Day 1: Green Belt Bern
From the city to the countryside in just nine minutes! On well-signposted cycle paths (mostly asphalt, occasionally gravel), the "adventure tour" signposted by the tourism association connects the rural communities around Bern over a distance of 75 kilometres. The route is moderately difficult, with 1,160 metres of elevation gain on the circular route. We have slightly adapted the original tour, moved the start and finish to Ostermundigen, just outside Bern, and added a real highlight: the challenging climb to the Bantiger viewing mountain (947 metres).
At this point, you will find external content that complements the article. You can display and hide it with a click.
Day 2: Frienisberg long-distance route
Keeps what its name promises: breathtaking views of the Seeland, the city of Bern and the Bernese Alps! The 43-kilometre-long original tour leads from Hinterkappelen near Bern around the Frienisberg high plateau, while our slightly adapted route from the old town covers 57 kilometres and 770 metres in altitude - making it ideal for e-bikes. The route is easy, but still offers plenty of variety.
At this point, you will find external content that complements the article. You can display and hide it with a click.
General information and tips for the Bern bike city trip
The city
Bern, the capital of Switzerland, combines historical splendour and modern vibrancy. A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1983, the city is characterised by its well-preserved architecture and its location in a loop of the River Aare. The Old Town with its arcades, fountains and the famous Zytglogge tower offers a unique urban ambience, which is complemented by many cultural events and a lively city life.
Prices: In view of the hefty prices for everything and anything, you really do ask yourself: is the city trip to the neighbouring country worth it? Everyone has to weigh that up for themselves. If you want to go out a lot, you should make sure that your bank account is well filled. The local currency is the Swiss franc.
Best time to travel
The temperate western European climate offers ideal conditions for cycling tours from spring to late autumn.
Arrival
Bern lies at the heart of Europe and is easy to reach by train - which, incidentally, is generally punctual in Switzerland.
Traffic and transport
The Bern Ticket gives you free travel throughout the entire city: from one overnight stay in an accommodation establishment within the city of Bern, it gives you free travel in zones 100/101 of the Libero network. The ticket includes the popular Marzilibähnli, the Gurtenbahn and the lift to the cathedral platform.
Accommodation
harry's home Bern: There are supposed to be more cosy hotels, but the Bern branch of the hotel chain is modern, spotlessly clean and the breakfast buffet is also excellent. If you're looking for real charm: Better not! But if you've always wanted to stay in the BäreTower, the tallest skyscraper in the canton, and appreciate generous bicycle storage facilities, you'll be very happy here. Bernstrasse 25, 3072 Ostermundingen, harrys-home.com/bern
Food and drink
Typical Bernese specialities: Bern is famous for dishes such as Berner Platte (various types of meat and sauerkraut), Rösti (grated, fried potatoes) and Berner Zopf (a traditional yeast bread).
Restaurant Dampfzentrale: In the beautiful rooms and on the terrace directly on the River Aare, you can enjoy an excellent meal. Whether outside in summer or inside in the former power station, the modern Mediterranean cuisine with homemade pasta is sure to impress, even at the high prices typical of Switzerland. Marzilistrasse 47, 3005 Bern, steamcentre.ch
Café des Pyrénées: The Café des Pyrénées, affectionately known as "Pyri", stands for uncomplicated, cosy get-togethers. The pub for everyone is located in the centre of the lively hustle and bustle of the old town. The philosophy of the establishment: a favourite pub for many, a meeting place for all. The food is delicious, the prices are reasonable. Kornhausplatz 17, 3011 Bern, cafedespyrenees.ch
Worth seeing
Zytglogge (clock tower): The first city gate (1218-1256) of the old town, which later became the clock tower. Inside is the impressive technology of a 16th century clockwork and an astronomical clock.
Kornhauskeller: The magnificent vaulted cellar was once a grain store and now houses a very touristy restaurant with a mix of Italian and traditional cuisine.
E-bike hire and bike service
Thömus Shop Bern: The Swiss bike brand offers high-tech bikes from the Bernese farm. The shop offers hire bikes and a bike service. Effingerstrasse 1, 3011 Bern, thoemus.ch
Rent a Bike: With rentabike.ch there are simpler e-bike models. Directly at the railway station.
Veloplus shop Ostermundigen: You'll find everything here: from service and the right bike maps to spare parts and clothing. Bernstrasse 65, 3072 Ostermundigen, veloplus.ch
Cycling maps and information
General information and e-bike tours to download and ride are available from: Bern.com
Even if the tours are well signposted: The Bern Cycling Map (1:15,000, Pro Velo Bern, CHF 9.90) and the Carte Cycliste Region Bern (1:60,000, VCS-Velokarten Schweiz, CHF 29.90) are very helpful!
