Now I know what the people of Valais and Bern mean when they pass judgement on the mountains of Graubünden with pity or slight derision. They don't call them real mountains, just big hills. But you can really only call the Eiger giant standing in front of me gigantic. The almost vertical north face rises almost 3000 metres from the valley floor. I even have to tilt my head back if I want to see the top of the famous mountain. And it is not alone. To the right and left, the Eiger is flanked by other 4000 metre peaks: the Wetterhorn, Schreckhorn, Finsteraarhorn and all the others. I can hardly get enough of the view, but the Postbus that is supposed to take us up from Grindelwald to the Große Scheidegg is of course not waiting for me. Swiss punctuality sends its regards. So I hang my bike on the rear rack and get in. To the sound of Tatüüütataaa before every hairpin bend, a film-like panoramic spectacle rushes past me outside the bus window.
At the top of the Große Scheidegg, I see the scenery from a completely new perspective. Below me, the valley basin opens up like a gigantic amphitheatre, with the steep rock faces following on like an oversized stage set. And I, completely awestruck, as a tiny spectator right in the middle of this epic natural spectacle.
My bike buddy Markus and I hop on our saddles and pedal up towards the First mountain station. A nice trail with a great panoramic backdrop. After the hut, there's a short climb and then we're standing in front of the still sleeping Bachalpsee. The Schreckhorn is reflected in its immaculately smooth water. Early in the morning, meditative tranquillity still reigns here, with only a few distant cowbells tinkling. But if we want the same peace and quiet on the descent, we have to set off now - and with full attention. The trail is easy to ride for long stretches, the rock slabs are surprisingly grippy and the steps are not too high, but there are also a few key sections. Sometimes the path does tilt steeply downwards and is interspersed with coarser rocks. Here you have to concentrate on looking for the rideable line. But it's always there.
At Bachläger, a few cows graze between the rustic alpine huts. Here you can take a breather. The last section of this descent now leads through the forest. We bob down long sections of steps and curve over steeply sloping meadow sections. But in between, you can take it easy on flowing forest trails.
A perfect mix that never lets you get bored. Once we reach the outskirts of Grindelwald, we roll along a single asphalt trail that leads us directly into the village centre. Back in the hustle and bustle, you immediately wish you were back up in the peace and serenity of these mountains. But now they tower far above us again, the Eiger and its mighty glacier-covered neighbours. Well, I have to admit that compared to these titans, my beloved Grisons mountains really only pass as half-giants.
Info about the trail
Postbus From Grindelwald railway station (June to October) from 8.44 am every hour, last journey at 4.44 pm. Journey time to Große Scheidegg: 36 minutes. Info: www.grindelwaldbus.ch
PricesWith guest card 17 euros, bike transport: 7.50 euros.
Refreshment tipBerggasthaus Waldspitz, sun terrace with panoramic view, delicious fruit cake!
Info: www.grindelwald.ch
