I'm sitting by the fire with a full glass of red wine and a biker's heart full to the brim. I'm in Tuscany and have had an absolutely packed day. Damn, it's really got me down. I would never have thought that. Never. And now? I'm here in Massa Vecchia, where I've been going on and off for 15 years, and I've done a first: I've done it. I've been out on an e-MTB - and I'm damn happy. James Bond once warned us: "Never say never." You never stop learning. And that's a good thing.
My eyes glide over the horizon and see the sun sinking into the golden sea. The sky glows orange. The island of Elba floats in front of me like a giant water lily. The scenery on this marvellous trail by the sea is magical - not least because it goes uphill as if by magic. I'm not panting, but have a big smile on my face. Don't get me wrong: My pulse is definitely elevated and my breathing volume is significantly higher than when drinking a cappuccino. But I'm guaranteed to be cycling at twice my normal pace - and therefore twice my normal distance. Fabrizio, Ernesto, Markus, Maxi and I are all mountain bikers. The real deal. But this week we got support from Bosch & Co. The e-MTBs took us to the sea today. There and back. 45 kilometres easy. And quite honestly: E-MTB is unfortunately awesome.
We follow Fabrizio blindly. He knows the area like the back of his hand. We rock the Bandite, a trail that was part of the Enduro World Series here in Punta Ala. It's rough going: rock is followed by wild root ratatouille. Then it gets flowy and the view opens up to the sea. This is the Tuscan variety that I love so much: on the way here, we were still travelling through the densest forest. A labyrinth in which you can get lost without a local guide. It's a good thing we have Fabrizio. He is Etruscan and has been working in Massa Vecchia for 20 years - as a bike guide, trail builder, mechanic and barista. A man with whom you can confidently shoot through the Tuscan wild boar forest tunnels on e-MTBs.
I take my eyes off the sea and concentrate on the technical downhill trail. Tight bends are a real challenge for our heavy e-MTBs. But they rock it with ease. Just as they make the gravel sections entertaining. I try to resist again and again. It can't be that E-MTB is so much fun - and makes so much sense. Especially here in the area around the estate
Massa Vecchia, which Ernesto built here 30 years ago. In the middle of the hilly landscape, between wild forests and gentle sandy bays, it is a dream terrain for bikers. Ernesto knew that back then, and he also knew how much fun the E-MTB can be. Especially way ahead of me. Every biker should actually be forced to go on holiday here on an E-MTB. A forced holiday that is guaranteed to open your eyes.
Ernst became Ernesto and Massa Vecchia became a bike mecca. in 30 years, the charismatic Swiss has built up his bike microcosm here. The visionary discovered the potential of e-MTBs five years ago.
Ernesto has now perfected his E-MTB test centre. There are more than just advantages to travelling with motor assistance. If the batteries are empty, your legs will be empty shortly afterwards. To be able to experience a complete, full E-MTB day, you need a change of batteries. On today's tour to the sea, there are batteries ready for the return journey in a café in Puntone. But you also need to learn how to manage the juice. In the middle of a nasty firebreak, the bar on my Bosch display slips to one bar. I gulp, switch from Turbo to Eco and ask Markus and Maxi about their mode strategy. They are also already driving on reserve. After all, the nice thing about e-MTBs is that you can have a relaxed conversation and therefore have enough time to discuss the battery charge and all kinds of technical details in detail - for now ...
That's enough! We land at the viewpoint. From up here, you can see the longest avenue of cypress trees in Tuscany. It leads straight to a magnificent estate in the centre of this beautiful region called Maremma. This was once a humid swampland where mosquitoes and malaria circulated. It was only under Mussolini that the region was drained and made fertile. Today it is known for its wine, wild boar and wilderness. Not a bad combination. And even better: there are a huge number of trails here, which Ernesto and Fabrizio's team have lovingly and painstakingly trimmed for bikers. You can also enjoy them to the full with the e-MTBs. That's why we quickly swap batteries over an espresso.
On the way back inland from the sea, the laurel forest becomes denser again. We make our way back into the undergrowth and into the flow of the road. We can hear each other commenting loudly on the trail. Perfect ground, exciting trails and the right equipment. The advantage of the drive is particularly noticeable in the hilly trail sections of Gavorrano. Gravel sections pass us by almost unnoticed. At moped speed, we can enjoy the magnificent scenery and have a short chat until the next trail branches off again.
With an electric drive, the experience value of a tour increases many times over. We all love biking - what if you can now suddenly pack even more of it into your day? When you can reach places that were otherwise unrealistic - at least not without agonising or hours of pedalling? And without losing the challenges or the excitement. The motor not only allows us to explore countless trails, it also unfortunately delivers a great uphill flow. For us, the riding enjoyment on these Tuscany day tours is increased to such an extent that we can't believe it: Trails that we normally ride at 7 km/h we effortlessly tackle at 15 km/h. The descents are just as much fun as on a normal bike, but for me the essence of the E-MTB experience lies in the ascent!
Here's an example: in front of us is this firebreak, which can actually only be negotiated with a tractor. We give each other a quick nod: "You could give it a try" - and drive up the ramp. Sure, we're in turbo mode and a good amount of riding technique is required, but it's doable. The E-MTB as an enabler. We tackle the freeride route in Massa Vecchia in the same way, where you normally pedal uphill for an hour or get shuttled. We simply find the steepest forest road with the e-MTBs, switch to turbo mode and fly to the summit in ten minutes. At the top, I think to myself: "The motor is a mind-expanding measure."
After hours of playing in the forest, we approach Massa Marittima. The town sits enthroned at the top of the mountain, with one or two more hills between us. Finally, one of Fabrizio's trail masterpieces beckons: the canyon. It is super flowy and has the perfect gradient. Never too steep and never too flat, it runs entirely in a ditch with lots of berms and small jumps. At the end, it spits us out on the road with our E-MTB grins chiselled into our faces and we pedal back to the agriturismo in a relaxed manner.
Maxi waves briefly. He wants to withdraw some money quickly. He'll be right back with us, he says, and turns right towards Massa Marittima. The pasta is piling up on the plates in front of us when Maxi finally pedals in. His wallet is full again - but his battery is empty. He had to climb the 200 metres to the bank on his 23 kg bike under his own steam. Maxi still needs a bit of practice
Battery household. In return, he can perfectly harmonise his body balance here.
In the evening by the fireplace, it's like it always is for me in Tuscany: I'm exhausted, happy and my body demands regeneration in the form of good wine. But today I see everything twice: our GPS has recorded twice as many kilometres and twice as many metres in altitude. And my body is also reporting twice as much. It's not just my legs that have done their work, but also my upper body. Riding uphill requires strength and dexterity, and the muscles at the top are really challenged. I wonder whether all this justifies twice as much wine consumption. Salute!
INFO
TOSCANA TOP 5
Punta Ala The trails of Punta Ala are a good day programme. A detour to the secluded bay of Cala Violina south of Follonica is a must. It's best to cycle directly to the beach.
Elba Island For a bike trip to Elba, you cross over in the morning and enjoy your cappuccino on the ferry. Then explore the trails of the Mediterranean island, eat well, relax on the beach and return to the mainland in the evening. Perfect!
Wine tasting Petra is the most impressive winery in the region, if not in the whole of Italy. Mario Botta has integrated the architectural masterpiece into the hilly landscape of Tuscany. The wines are outstanding - especially the Sangiovese called Alto.
Oil mill In the neighbouring village of Valpiana, the mills grind slowly but steadily. All the farmers in the region bring their olive harvest here to have the oil pressed. The freshly bottled litre costs around 15 euros and is guaranteed to have a unique taste.
Maremma Nature Park A natural coastal strip with wild animals and lots of beach wood. You can use it to build a sun and wind shelter right by the water and enjoy that Robinson feeling.
Arrival By plane: Pisa or Rome, from there hire car or shuttle; by car: via the Brenner Pass to Florence and then continue towards Rome/Grossetto to Massa Marittima
Accommodation Massa Vecchia has everything a biker needs. Rooms and flats with breakfast or half board. No luxury, but a family-run business with lots of flair and passion: Massa Vecchia, 23, 58024 Massa Marittima GR, Tel: 0039/(0)566/903885, info@massavecchia.it
For a more upmarket holiday, stay at the TENUTA IL CICALINO next door. A large country estate with flats, pool and wellness facilities at the foot of the freeride route: www.ilcicalino.itTel: 0039/(0)566/902031
Bike hire and guided tours The best place to start is directly in Massa Vecchia: 6 Scott E-Genius and 3 E-Sparks are available for hire (30 euros for guests, 36 euros for external guests); the Maremma Mega Tour is on the programme as a guided tour and costs 65 euros including lunch and battery support.
Restaurants Our favourites in Massa Marittima:
- the Osteria da Tronca, Vicolo Porte 5; here you can taste the Maremma. Dishes change according to the season. The chef still goes into the forest himself and picks fresh mushrooms and wild vegetables. Rustic ambience.
- Taverna del Vecchio Borgo, Via Norma Parenti 12; the best meat in the region. The thick Fiorentines in particular make the knife stand out. The dishes are grilled on an open fire in front of the guests. Also a tip for delicious red wine.
- Il Gatto e la Volpe, Vicolo Ciambellano 12; known for its game dishes. The owner also cooks here himself.
- Pizzeria le Mura, Via Norma Parenti; the typical Italian pizzeria with a beautiful terrace. Fantastic views as far as the sea.
THE TOUR
75 kilometres and 1800 metres in altitude - this tour combines all the trail highlights of the Maremma and Punta Ala in one day. Around half of these are flawless, typical Tuscan forest trails. The other half are also beautiful connecting passages on gravel and tarmac. The tour runs from Massa Marittima to the sea, with a stop at the famous beach of Cala Violina. This is also where the battery change takes place.
