"And you think it will hold?" I ask Robert and Aljaž. I peer anxiously past the driver at our bikes and doubt whether it was right to hang them on the two wobbly hooks on the front of the cogwheel carriage.
We jolt uphill on uncomfortable wooden benches. Pushed by the Opicina tram's cogwheel railcar, we conquer the steepest section on the way to the villa suburb of Trieste. Perhaps we should have done the 350 metres of ascent by bike instead. "Yes, but maybe you should have ordered one glass of wine less last night?" interjects Robert. True, it was a bit late on our tour through the bars of Trieste yesterday. But looking at the wobbling handlebars almost makes me sick. The image of splintering carbon frames under steel wheels comes to mind. Suddenly the word "Obelisco" creaks out of the old loudspeakers. We've made it! Relieved, we lift the undamaged bikes off the hooks. Only now can I savour the view that we had already enjoyed on the ascent. The former harbour town of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy lies at our feet. Behind it, the Adriatic Sea glistens in the morning sun.
Four days earlier, we had escaped the rainy spring in Munich. A glance at the weather map promised ideal conditions for exploring the touring options around Trieste and along the Slovenian coast. And after all, it's just a five-hour drive from southern Bavaria - provided the motorways are free of traffic jams, of course. So far, I've only known this area from a trans-Slovenia tour, and it was already clear that we'd missed out on some promising trails. So I simply had to come again. The hinterland of Trieste, with mountains up to just over 1000 metres above sea level, was a rather neglected region on the Italian and Slovenian side during the time of the Yugoslav League of Nations. As a result, nature remained almost untouched. At the same time, Trieste and the smaller towns of Koper, Izola and Piran on the Slovenian side offer plenty of variety on rainy days.
Motor scooters rattle past us. Two men next to us are chatting loudly and gesticulating in front of the coffee bar. Just like Italy. But something doesn't quite fit the image of the typical Italian city: the streets of Borgo Teresiano, the Maria Theresa suburb, are lined with stately buildings from the Wilhelminian era. A peculiar blend of Italian flair and Viennese architecture. There is, of course, an explanation for this charming mixture: from 1382 to 1918, Trieste was part of the Habsburg Empire. The city's rise began when Emperor Charles VI elevated it to a free harbour. The population grew rapidly, and Charles' successor Maria Theresa had the areas of the salt pans drained and a new suburb built in a rectangular grid. The Austrian past is particularly evident here. Its position as a free harbour and the Austrians' love of coffee also led to the name "capital of coffee", which has survived to this day thanks to the many local roasting houses.
We arranged to meet our Slovenian friend Aljaž for a "Nero", the Trieste espresso. He has brought a map of the border region. "Only a fraction of the paths are marked, we only completed another new trail yesterday," says Aljaž and begins to talk until we are all jittery and sliding around on our chairs. Then we finally set off: up through the steep alleyways of the old town to the Castello San Giusto. The view from up here is impressive. "The border is over there, we'll cross it later." Aljaž points towards the densely wooded hills behind the sea of houses in Trieste. Thank goodness it's not on the road, as we feared, but on a former railway line that has been converted into a cycle path. Opened in 1887, the tracks once connected Trieste with the imperial and royal war harbour of Pula. Today, the track is used by walkers, joggers and cyclists. For the first few kilometres, we pass the suburban apartment blocks of Trieste and cross the motorway, then the route becomes quieter and lonelier. In Val Rosandra, the route is carved into the rock halfway up. Again and again, the trees provide a view of the wild karst valley. The oil tanks and the halls of Europe's largest marine engine manufacturer shine like large white cakes at the end of the valley. "Have you got your passports with you?" asks Aljaž shortly afterwards. No, it's in the hotel! What now? Everything back again? "I was only joking! We're already in Slovenia! Dobrodošli! Welcome!" Despite the pleasant gradient, my heart rate briefly hit the top bar. But there's not much time to slow down, because we're soon pedalling steeply uphill through loose gravel on the south side of the Slavnik. At least the gradient eases a little after a while.
It's hard to believe that we were still in the centre of Trieste about two hours earlier. From the summit of the Slavnik, the view extends over an almost uninhabited landscape far into Croatia. Aljaž has already put on his helmet again. We quickly pack the remains of our snacks into our rucksacks, tighten the straps - and the Slovenian has already given us the slip. A clear home advantage for him, we can hardly follow him on the meadow path. Shortly afterwards we lose sight of him, but the route is clear. A mixture of path and cart track, interspersed with a few sharp limestones. As the altitude decreases, the fun factor increases. The trail circles through the sparse forest on a slalom course. Without pulling on the brake levers and without pedalling too hard, we hurtle downhill. Perfect! A flow trail in a bike park couldn't be more elegantly laid out, I think to myself. But at the end of the trail, a grinning Aljaž awaits us and promises: "It's about to get even better!" We make our way back to Italy via a karst plateau to Socerb Castle. Aljaž points to the trees at the foot of the steep rock face. "There are some prepared trails down there in the forest." Behind them, the oil tanks of Trieste can be seen again. From the castle, we rumble down a stepped path, ride round the steep wall on the road and turn into the promised trail entrance. Aljaž was right: the trail builders have done a great job here and created a cross-border masterpiece. At the end, we roll into the small village of Bagnoli. Just a few minutes from Trieste, there is no sign of the hustle and bustle of the city here. Old stone houses line the street, old people sit in the village square and exchange news. A hand-painted sign points the way to our accommodation: a bed and breakfast in a backyard. Host Michele, himself a keen biker, is already waiting for us.
The next morning, we cross the Slovenian border by shuttle bus and reach Izola a short time later. At first glance, the former fishing town on its peninsula looks more Italian than Trieste. A campanile, a free-standing church tower, rises up from the town and hints at its Venetian past. But when Aljaž places our order in Slovenian in the café on the waterfront promenade, we realise once again that we are in the former Yugoslavia. "The Slovenian part of Istria has an eventful past: first it belonged to the Venetian Empire, then to the Habsburg monarchy, before the Second World War it was Italian, then part of Yugoslavia - and now it's Slovenian," Aljaž explains. Later, as we stand on the hills in the hinterland of Izola, we notice a change here too: the landscape is less wild, vineyards slope gently down towards the coast. The karst has given way to fertile clay soil - and that has one big advantage: the trails can be modelled even better. "This way!" Aljaž has already disappeared into the bushes again. What follows over the next 400 metres in altitude is a blast: Berms, small jumps, technical sections and lots of flowing passages - a brilliant mix! "There's another option - should we go up again?" Of course!
On the way back to Izola, Aljaž suddenly turns off into an industrial estate. There are mounds of earth behind a few bushes - a pump track! We push our bikes onto the starting hill. Two boys with fluff on their upper lips have already positioned themselves next to us. The little ones are practising on balance bikes on the middle track, the older kids are riding on the outer track and the parents are sitting on a bench at the edge. We raise the average age suddenly, but not the riding technique level. With our full-suspension enduro bikes, we simply don't stand a chance against the locals on their dirt bikes.
The Trieste equivalent of the Bavarian Leberkässemmel is the Panino with pork tongue. If you like, it comes with sauerkraut and horseradish - a relic from the old Habsburg times.
Dark clouds hang over the Adriatic the next morning, so we use the day for a stroll through Trieste. At lunchtime, we stop off at one of the two "buffets", a relic from the Habsburg era. A long queue has formed outside the door. We are already waiting here in a cloud of sauerkraut and meat vapour. Behind the counter stands the moustachioed chef, carving what is simmering in the pots behind him on a marble slab with a sharp knife and two-pronged fork: pig's trotters, sausages, ham and tongues. Formerly intended as a snack bar for harbour workers, all sections of the population now enjoy all kinds of pork dishes here, preferably with sauerkraut and fresh horseradish. With this foundation in our stomachs, we feel almost invited to take a tour of the city's bars. Aljaž reminds us again about tomorrow, but I simply cut him off: "Come on, you said something about a cog railway that could help us uphill tomorrow ...?"
Editor's note: The Tram de Opicina in Trieste, which was still operating at the time of the tour research, has been out of service since the beginning of 2017. An alternative route leads via the very steep "Scala Santa" road.
Peter Immich, freelance touring author for BIKE: "In this region, the flair of lively harbour towns mixes with that of secluded nature. Plus the mild climate, great trails and good accessibility. I think I've found my favourite area for spring and autumn."
GENERAL INFORMATION
The precinct
The region around Trieste and in the hinterland of the Slovenian coast offers perfect conditions for spring and autumn tours, but has so far been little developed for bikers. In a relatively small area, there are peaks up to 1000 metres high and gentle vineyards with tour options for all levels of difficulty. The combination of partly unspoilt nature, larger harbour towns such as Trieste and the location by the sea make the region particularly attractive. The many cross-border tours are exciting. Despite the proximity to the relatively densely populated coast, you are often alone on the trails, especially on the Slovenian side.
Arrival
By car: From Salzburg via the A10/Tauern motorway to Villach (toll Tauern tunnel 11.50 euros). From here, take the E61 motorway through the Karawanken tunnel via Ljubljana to Trieste (Slovenian vignette required) or the A23 and E70 motorways via Udine and Palmanova to Trieste (toll). To get to Koper, Izola or Piran, continue via the H5/H6 motorway to Slovenia (vignette required), alternatively toll-free via country roads.
By train: from Munich via Verona-Venice or Villach-Udine to Trieste.
Parking in Trieste: As in any major Italian city, car parking is not without its problems. Most car parks are subject to a charge, but there are larger car parks directly on the piers. Otherwise in the sometimes narrow garages and so-called "parking silos" in the city centre. Many hotels offer valet parking in garages a little further away, costing around 25 euros per day.
Best time to travel
The proximity to the Adriatic Sea helps to ensure mild temperatures in spring and autumn. The best months to visit are therefore March to May and September to November. In the winter months, the "Bora" or "Burja" brings icy temperatures with strong winds.
A special botanical feature can be admired in the Karst in spring and autumn: The "ruj" ("wig bush") bears pink "wigs" as flowers in spring, while in autumn the leaves glow fiery red, bathing entire mountain slopes in bright colours.
Izola pump track
There is a well-developed pump track for everyone in the industrial area of Trieste.
Info: www.facebook.com/bike.park.izola/
Bike shops
- 360 Bike Store Trieste, www.360bikestore.it
- In Koper: Funsports, www.funsports.si and Real, www.facebook.com/trgovinainservisReal/
- In Izola: Koloset, www.koloset.si
Maps and literature
- Tabacco map 047, Carso Triestino e Isontino, M 1:25000
- Slovenska Istra, Planiska zveze Slovenije, M 1:50000
- Primorska, Kartografia, 1:40000, with marked recommendations for (easy) tours
Accommodation
There is accommodation of all categories in the region. From simple private rooms to tourist farms in the hinterland to five-star hotels: the choice is large, but there is not yet any accommodation specialising in bikers. When booking, ask about storage facilities for bikes, as not all hotels have lockable storage rooms.
IGeneral information
www.turismofvg.it/Ort/Triest - www.izola.eu - www.koper.si - www.portoroz.si/de - www.slovenia.info
SCENE SPECIALS
Buffets
Nothing for vegetarians: in the more than 50 buffets, the former snack bars of the harbour workers, there is everything from pork, with sauerkraut or in panino: Sausages, ham, boiled and smoked meat, all in the old Austrian tradition, accompanied by simple, drinkable wine and draught beer.
- Buffet da Pepi, Via Cassa di Risparmio 3, www.buffetdapepi.it
- Buffet da Siora Rosa, Piazza Attilio Hortis 3
Coffee
In addition to the numerous coffee bars, the traditional Trieste coffee houses offer the best opportunity to savour the products of the more than 20 local roasting houses in the "coffee capital of Europe".
Info www.caffesanmarcotrieste.eu - www.caffetommaseo.it - www.caffespecchi.it
Wine
The Slovenian part of Istria is known for its good wines, and there are numerous opportunities for wine tasting along the Istrian Wine Route. Info: www.slovenia.info - www.izola.eu
There are countless wine bars (enoteca) and bars in the centre of Trieste, where you can meet up for an aperitif after work (or a tour). Our tip: The bars in Via Torino in the Cavana neighbourhood in the historic old town (Città Vecchia).
Ice
As everywhere in Italy, this is a wonderful way to top up on calories after a tour. Our tip: Gelateria Natura Gelato, Piazzo Hortis 6/A.
Osmise
You should keep your eyes open during the tours: Small, often handwritten signposts with green leafy branches point the way to the "Osmize" or "Osmica" (Slo.). The tradition of wine taverns dates back to a decree issued by Empress Maria Theresa in 1784: on eight (Slo.: osem) days, farmers were allowed to sell their wine and home-made food and serve food to guests in their parlours. Open Osmize can be found at: www.osmize.com
