Tip for the low seasonCycling tours on the Amalfi Coast

Barbara Merz-Weigandt

 · 19.10.2023

Among connoisseurs of the Amalfi Coast, the small town of Atrani is still an insider tip.
Photo: © Vito Fusco Courtesy of Authentic Amalfi Coast
The steep Amalfi Coast with its picturesque villages is a scenic highlight. For cyclists, the roads are best travelled outside the high season.
The Amalfi Coast with its steep cliffs, rugged coastal landscape with many small beaches and picturesque fishing villages in pastel colours is a popular travel destination. The region can also be explored by bike - especially in the low season.

The 50-kilometre stretch of coastline is located in the south of the Italian peninsula of Sorrento in the Campania region. A coastal road runs between the harbour town of Salerno and Sorrento, which lies on the cliffs, past elegant villas, terraced vineyards and lemon groves on the hillsides.

There is a lot of traffic on the Amalfitana coastal road in the high season. Cyclists can take the small roads in the hinterland.Photo: © Susy Pepe - Distretto Turistico Costa d'AmalfiThere is a lot of traffic on the Amalfitana coastal road in the high season. Cyclists can take the small roads in the hinterland.

In the peak tourist season between May and September, there is a lot of traffic on the coastal road. Although a cycle route from Positano to Vietri sul Mare via the state road is signposted, a route off the main road is definitely the better alternative for discovering the towns of Tramonti, Ravello and Scala. In the hinterland of the Amalfi Coast, small tarmac side roads are perfect cycling terrain. However, there are also steep ramps to contend with from time to time. At the Giro d'Italia 2023, the "Valico di Chiunzi" was on the programme as a mountain classification.

Tour tip 1: Vietri sul Mare to Amalfi

43 kilometres, approx. 2000 m elevation gain, difficult

Shortly after the start in Vietri sul Mare, wonderful views open up over the Amalfitana road towards the sea with hidden beaches and houses clinging to the steep slopes.

Next you come to Cetara, an old fishing village guarded by a tower. A short detour from the main road leads directly to the centre of the pretty village and the beach. If you are already hungry, you can fortify yourself in the pizzeria Il Piennolo.

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The small fishing village of Cetara is more tranquil than Amalfi or Positano.Photo: © Susy Pepe - Distretto Turistico Costa d'AmalfiThe small fishing village of Cetara is more tranquil than Amalfi or Positano.

On the onward journey towards Maiori, there are several viewpoints that invite you to enjoy and take photos. A cultural detour is the Santa Maria de Olearia Abbey, a more than thousand-year-old rock abbey with frescoes dating from around 1000 AD to 1500 AD. A visit is worthwhile, but must be on the website of the municipality of Maiori can be booked.

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After visiting the cave paintings, the tour leads pleasantly downhill to Capodorso. We pass the imposing Norman tower on the left and reach the seafront promenade of Maiori, with the longest beach on the Amalfi Coast. The Gelateria la Divina ice cream parlour is also located on the promenade. You should definitely try the homemade ice cream with real fruit and lemons from Amalfi!

The refreshment comes just in time and the calories are quickly burnt off. After Maiori, the 12-kilometre climb to the "Valico di Chiunzi" pass in Tramonti begins. But the ascent is quite varied. The landscape changes from cliffs overlooking the sea to vineyards and chestnut forests. Halfway up, a winery with an osteria invites you to take a short - or longer - break. In the Azienda Agricola Reale you can take part in a wine tour and visit the vineyards or savour typical dishes.

On the steep slopes of the Amalfi Coast, not only the typical lemons are grown, but also winePhoto: © Susy Pepe - Distretto Turistico Costa d'AmalfiOn the steep slopes of the Amalfi Coast, not only the typical lemons are grown, but also wine

After a break in the old vineyards of Tramonti, where the Tintore grape is grown, the route continues to the Chiunzi Pass. A memorial plaque at the top of the pass commemorates Marco Pantani, the "Pirate", one of the greatest Italian cyclists of all time.

The road to Ravello is mostly downhill, from the chestnut woods back towards the sea. Music lovers should visit Villa Rufolo in Ravello, the city of music. This place was the inspiration for Richard Wagner's Klingsor Garden.

The last section of the route leads to Castiglione di Ravello and on to Amalfi. It runs through a narrow valley where the panorama changes again: from the chestnut groves to the lemon terraces typical of the Amalfi Coast.

Just a few bends away from Amalfi, the white houses of Atrani nestle against a steep slopePhoto: © Vito Fusco, Authentic Amalfi CoastJust a few bends away from Amalfi, the white houses of Atrani nestle against a steep slope

In Castiglione di Ravello, the route returns to the Statale Amalfitana and leads through Atrani, the smallest village in Italy. Atrani was the setting for the film "The Equalizer III" with Denzel Washington. The route then continues to Amalfi. If you want, you can join the other cycle tourists and take the typical final photo under the steps of the Cathedral of Sant'Andrea in Piazza Duomo.

Accommodation tips for cycle tourists

In Castiglione di Ravello, the Casa Gargano a recommended accommodation for cyclists. It is located directly on the coastal road and is only 100 metres from the beach. Cyclists have access to a private garage below the flat, which offers enough space for up to two cars and several bicycles. There is also a charging station for cars or electric bikes.

Tour tip 2: From Castiglione di Ravello to Positano

18 kilometres, 300 m elevation gain, easy but busy route

After driving through Amalfi, a first stop at Fiordo di Furore is recommended. The road here is very narrow and cars cannot stop, but bicycles can be parked on the cliffs and you can walk down the steps to the fjord beach. Surrounded by fishermen's huts, this place was also used as the backdrop for the film "Love" starring Anna Magnani and directed by Roberto Rossellini.

The Basilica of San Gennaro in Praiano is magnificently decorated. From the piazza in front of the church, you have a marvellous view over the Amalfi Coast as far as PositanoPhoto: © Susy Pepe - Distretto Turistico Costa d'AmalfiThe Basilica of San Gennaro in Praiano is magnificently decorated. From the piazza in front of the church, you have a marvellous view over the Amalfi Coast as far as Positano

The nearest town is Praiano. The beautiful Piazza San Gennaro is just a few steps from the road. A short walk and a visit to the Basilica of San Gennaro are well worthwhile.

Positano is one of the most famous towns on the Amalfi Coast. It is a popular holiday destination with a pebble beach and steep, narrow streets with boutiques and cafés.Photo: © Authentic Amalfi CoastPositano is one of the most famous towns on the Amalfi Coast. It is a popular holiday destination with a pebble beach and steep, narrow streets with boutiques and cafés.

After a short onward journey, you reach Positano. From here you have a marvellous view of Punta Campanella, Capri and the Faraglioni rocks as well as the Li Galli islands, where, according to old legends, mermaids are said to live. The perfect photo stop for Positano with the Li Galli islands in the background is at the car parks along the road in Fornillo or Arienzo.

At the end of the tour, the path leads steeply downhill through the houses towards the sea.

General information

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Barbara Merz-Weigandt

Barbara Merz-Weigandt

Editor-in-Chief

Barbara Merz-Weigandt, editor-in-chief of MYBIKE, the magazine for dedicated everyday and touring cyclists, lives on Lake Starnberg. Her great passion: travelling. She has crossed the Alps by touring bike - on the Via Claudia Augusta, the Ciclovia Munich-Venezia and the Alpe-Adria cycle path. She has explored the islands of Croatia and the Lycian coast by motorised sailboat and bike, and has travelled to all the Balearic and Canary Islands by bike. Her favourite place to ride her mountain bike is on the trails in the Bavarian Alps, the Dolomites or on La Palma.

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