If you crank up the last few metres of altitude to a mountain hut in South Tyrol, you're already mentally ordering your reward: Schlutzkrapfen, spinach dumplings and/or a bacon snack. And an apple strudel afterwards? These are the typical hut dishes served in South Tyrol.
But how can it be that a hut owner on the Sassolungo is famous for his fish specialities? Some huts in South Tyrol are so perfectly situated in the landscape that they are completely overrun. But hardly anyone knows that there is a real gem just a few crank turns away. One person who should know, because he has been exploring the South Tyrolean mountains for almost 15 years, is Thomas Rögner. As a tour guide, it is important to him that he can show his tour groups huts with that special something. Huts with a brilliant location, for example, or an exceptional menu. But sometimes it's just the special warmth of a mountain hut landlord that makes Thomas Rögner a fan.
These five huts in the best locations are described here - the GPS data can be downloaded free of charge below:
1st Rifugio Emilio Comici
2nd Fodara Vedla
3. Mahlknechthütte
4th Vöraner Alm
5th Wieseralm
...
1st Rifugio Emilio Comici
You can imagine that you have a gigantic view from a hut that clings directly to the Dolomite massif of the Sassolungo. But the hut is famous for its fish.
Location, location, location. What estate agents preach as a selling point also applies to the mountain hut stop that you want to crown your bike tour with. And the Rifugio Emilio Comici scores 100 points in this category. Its back wall nestles very close to the 3181 metre high rock pillar of the Sassolungo. From the hut terrace, you can almost reach out and touch the vertical rock face. To the north, on the other hand, there is a super panoramic view of the famous massif of the Sella Group.
The tour there is best started from Ortisei in Val Gardena. From there, you wind your way uphill from the valley basin between the Alpe di Siusi plateau and the two-thousand metre Monte Piz. After 700 metres in altitude, the route then takes you on an undulating up and down. If you look back, S. Cristina is already far down in the valley, but the main ascent to the hut only follows now. The path now runs up a long stream valley. The last few metres are on a gravel track that crosses an alpine meadow. But at the end of this zigzag course, the light blue shutters of the Comici hut are already shining. Located at an altitude of 2153 metres, it is also the highest point of the tour. So you can enjoy the delicacies served by hut manager Marzola - including many fish specialities - with a clear conscience. The nearby chairlift and the red alarm buttons on the tables give away the fact that it's really busy here in winter.
On the way back to the valley, the route passes the Stone City - a climbing paradise where hundreds of free climbers stretch their fingers. Then you roll towards the Passo Sella and finally bump along the state road on a leisurely downhill ride back to Val Gardena - 14 kilometres of digestion.
14 kilometres of digestion.
Tour length: 37.9 km - 1678 metres altitude
Hut information: The Rifugio Emilio Comici was built in 1955 and named after a South Tyrolean mountaineering legend. Emilio Comici climbed 100 first ascents in the Dolomites in the 1930s. These included the Salami Tower on the Sassolungo. In 1938, he became mayor of Selva Gardena before he died at the age of 39 in a fall from the climbing wall.
Rifugio Emilio Comici: open all year round, tel. 0039/0471/794121, www.rifugiocomici.com
...
2. fodara vedla
The Fanes Nature Park is known for its magnificent landscape. An insider tip: the friendly hosts at Fodara Vedla.
Shortly after the start of the tour in St. Vigil, the Fanes Nature Park opens up at the Pederü hut. However, the desire for a cappuccino should be suppressed at this fairground, as paradise awaits 1400 metres further up. But before that, it's time to hit the road: first a rough gravel road winds steeply up to the plateau and then, after the Fanes hut, the ramp to Lake Limo. Then you hurtle down towards Cortina d'Ampezzo for ten kilometres before the last 800 metres of ascent to the Sennessee. But then it's pure downhill fun down to Fodara. Here you can now enjoy the hospitality of a really warm South Tyrolean host family. It's best to book an overnight stay because of the excellent wine list!
Tour length: 55 km - 2023 hm
Hut information: The Fodara Vedla refuge (1966 m) was built on the edge of the Sennes Alm after the First World War. This old house now serves as an overnight camp. In the new main building there is a guesthouse as well as rooms with showers. Open from 1.6.-6.11.16, overnight stay in the camp from 29 euros. Tel. 0039/0474/501093, www.fodara.it
...
3rd grinding hut
A little away from the tourist hustle and bustle, a small idyll with its own herb garden slumbers on the Seiser Alm: the Mahlknechthütte.
Even on the overcrowded Seiser Alm, there is still an idyllic spot: the Mahlknecht hut. Here you can sit by the biotope pond, to the right the Rosszähne stretch out like a wall of lances, and straight ahead you can almost touch the Plattkofel and Langkofel. You can taste that the food at the hut is flavoured with herbs from its own biotope.
The bike tour to the hut starts in Seis. You climb up to the Seiser Alm via the Spitzbühel and the Laurinhütte (alternatively take the cable car from Seis). Pass the Restaurant Goldknopf and continue via the Mahlknecht Schwaige (do not confuse) to the Mahlknechthütte. Hardy souls can continue to the Tierser Alpl. After a refreshment stop, take the same route back uphill, then roll over the plateau of the Seiser Alm and look forward to the wonderfully rooty forest paths via Bad Ratzes back to Seis.
Tour length: 34.9 km - 1444 metres altitude
Hut information: The first Mahlknecht Schwaige (2045 m) stood as early as 1902, but the hut has an eventful history: fire in 1935, renaming, complete demolition and rebuilding on the same site. The name has returned with the Mahlknecht family. Tel. 0039/0471/727912, www.mahlknechthuette.com
...
4th Vöraner Alm
The mountains between Bolzano and Merano become more and more complex the higher you go. At the summit: a breathtaking view.
This tour above Merano/Meran passes three mountain pastures, opens up far-reaching views over the Sarntal Valley peaks, winds through the Stoarnenen Mandln and ends with a sporty descent. The tour starts deep in the Nals basin, accompanied by the green of the apple trees and vines. The small self-service gondola from Burgstall saves 900 metres of unrideable altitude difference on root paths to the high plateau between Hafling and Vöran. Once you have left the forest behind you, the lush alpine pastures open up. The Leadner Alm is usually very full. It's worth cranking up to the Vöraner Alm. The food may be simple, but the panorama is unbeatable. Continue up to the Stoanernen Mandln. The descent to Vilpian is very rough, but you can take a break at the Möltner Kaser mountain inn.
Tour length: 46.2 km - 1994 hm
Hut information: With three mountain huts directly on the route, the choice is difficult. The Leadner Alm is located directly on a "hiking motorway" from Hafling and is therefore usually very busy. The small Vöraner Alm at over 1800 metres is quieter. The food is simple, but the panorama is stunning. Open: 14.5.-9.11. Tel. 0039/360/320469, www.hafling-meran2000.eu
...
5th Wieseralm
An unbelievably wide alpine plateau in the Eisack Valley with 360-degree panoramic views - and in the middle of it all, just like that, stands the Wieseralm.
South of Bruneck, a forest road climbs up to the Wieseralm. At the beginning it is easy to ride, but towards the end it climbs so steeply that you have to get out of the saddle. Well, the mega view of the jagged Aferer Geisler and the Peitlerkofel is not for free. After all, this is one of the most beautiful vantage points in the Dolomites. After a break at the rustic Wieseralm, which incidentally still manages without electricity, it's worth taking a detour to the Glittner Seen lakes. Return via the Jakobsstöckl with its small memorial chapel, which is said to have mystical properties. Past Kreuzwiesenalm and (with a small diversions) Starkenfeldhütte, you now rush downhill to Ehrenburg. An alternative and shorter route is the partly steep but generally flowing hiking trail no. 3 down to Onach.
Tour length: 64.5 km - 1855 metres altitude
Hut information: The Wieseralm is located in the Lüsner mountains at an altitude of 2054 metres and still manages without electricity. The menu of the three senior citizens who have been running the hut for many years is correspondingly simple. Nearest hut with electricity: Kreuzwiesenalm, www.kreuzwiesenalm.com
...
Information about the mountain bike region South Tyrol
The precinct South Tyrol is the northernmost and largest province in Italy. There are huts in the mountains here like sand on the Ligurian coast. This makes the region particularly interesting for tour riders. Especially when you get insider tips from locals and bike guides, such as these five hut tours: from the rustic Wieseralm via Bruneck to the Emilio Comici gourmet temple on the Langkofel.
Best time to travel Mediterranean climate: South Tyrol is not known as the orchard of the Alps for nothing. The Ötztal and Zillertal Alps keep out the cold air masses from the north, while the Dolomites keep out the low-pressure areas from the south. As a result, the South Tyrolean mountains are usually snow-free from March to November.
Maps Supertrail maps: Bolzano North, Bolzano South, Venosta Valley North, Venosta Valley East, Merano North 16.95 euros each. Info: www.delius-klasing.de
Compass maps at a scale of 1:50000, www.kompass.at
South Tyrol Online Special On our website we have a big South Tyrol special compiled. These include the best tour areas such as Vinschgau, Meran, Sexten, Eggental, Pustertal and Fanes. All tours include descriptions, GPS data, tips for refreshment stops and accommodation.
Bike accommodation
From simple hut accommodation and bed and breakfasts to five-star hotels in historic buildings - if you are not coming to South Tyrol during the Törggelen season, you will always find accommodation.
Hotels with special services for mountain bikers can be found at Südtirol Bike Hotels, www.bikehotels.it
The author
Thomas Rögner has been guiding tours and Alpine crossings for Alps Biketours since 2002. As an avowed fan of South Tyrol, there is probably no mountain hut that he has not yet visited by bike. This selection comes from his very personal jewellery box.
Downloads:
Gitta Beimfohr
Editor
