My forearms seem to be filled with pumping cockchafers, my sense of balance urgently needs recalibrating. Panting, I come to a halt at the exit of the Furcia trail and look around again: Aha, so that was the freeride course in the "easy" category. Inwardly, this gives me a little slap in the face. I thought I was much fitter. "Hey Makke, how many hairpin bends did you actually put in there?" I search for a plausible explanation. "No idea," Makke, whose real name is Markus Irschara, shrugs his shoulders: "I've never counted them." There isn't even a plan for this bike trail from Kronplatz down to the Furkelpass, which was only created last year. The Pustertal local simply had it dug into the mighty southern flank of the Kronplatz by feel. Or rather, he adapted it to the natural conditions as far as possible.
The bare data of 500 metres of descent over four and a half kilometres only gives an idea of what Furcia is really capable of. For me as a normal touring biker, the steep downhill sections after the berms take some getting used to. Shortly before the hairpin bends, my fingers kept twitching nervously on the brake levers. Completely unnecessary, which I unfortunately only realised after the twentieth bend. Before that, I always had to put in extra effort on the specially designed counter-climbs. If, on the other hand, you simply let yourself go with the rhythm of the track and its countless hairpin bends, then at some point you will find yourself swinging weightlessly. Just like skiing, when the experience of gravity, gliding and letting go in deep snow becomes a game rather than a struggle.
And that brings us to Makke's second great passion: skiing. We are just winding our way up the gravel bends to the Furkel Pass when the man from Pustertal assesses the gradient of the mountain flanks. "You can recognise good powder slopes in summer," he whispers to me. Later, in his workshop, he will show me what this second fascination has already led him to: his own ski brand "Traam". Yes, what can you do when the ideal ski doesn't exist yet? So he teamed up with two friends to shape the ideal touring and freeride ski themselves. Where does the man find the time, you ask yourself as you pedal along. After all, he also has a job in forestry. Makke's wife Michaela certainly doesn't seem to have a problem with her husband's tight schedule. As soon as the couple picked me up in Valdaora/Olang in the morning for their tour together, it quickly became clear that she is cut from the same cloth. Her main job is managing director of the Association of South Tyrolean Bike Hotels. Second job: mountain bike guide.
This is probably simply due to the surroundings. The Pustertal Valley, which is around 60 kilometres long, branches off into several side trails that open up completely different biking areas. From the lush green Alpine pastures around Gais and Bruneck, to the rooty forest trails around Kronplatz, to the karstic Alpine, exposed Dolomite trails, the "Puschtertoal" has it all.
"This Furcia-Fojedöra tour is like a little round trip through the valley," Michaela explained to me during the gondola ride up to Kronplatz. The Furcia trail was just the fun prelude to this tour. To loosen up, so to speak. The subsequent gravel ascent to the Furkel Pass, where we are now, has a pleasant gradient. Something to warm up, so to speak. But behind that, the man with the hammer is waiting. Or to put it another way: the ascent to the Kreuzjoch! Up to the Val di Fojedöra, the path still winds harmlessly up through the forest. But suddenly there are only a few trees left. Now I have to lean my head back to follow the rest of the gravel track. My right thumb pumps frantically for the lowest gear. But unfortunately it's already in there. Makke stoically pushes through his 1x11 enduro transmission. But the last climb is the end for him too. "The tour to Lake Braies is one of the highlights, but we usually only do it once a season. Now I know why again," laughs Michaela as we push the last few metres together. Right next to us, steep gravel rips rise upwards. Makke is already scanning them again for their winter suitability. A grin flits across his face: "Good powder slope!"
When we finally reach the Kreuzjoch, a new world opens up to us. The view widens out over the Lärchental valley. To the left and right, the pale Dolomite peaks stretch up into the sky. Narrow as a towel, but pleasingly smooth, the path meanders almost flat towards the Krippeskofel. Everywhere you look there are crags, rock massifs and steep limestone walls. We are right in the middle of the spectacle of the Braies Dolomites. What a contrast to the cosy, green Kronplatz two hours earlier! Up to the Grünwaldjoch, it's a relaxed ride - if you manage to ignore the steep slopes to the left. But on the descent into the Lärchental valley at the latest, you're looking into the abyss: the path tilts so steeply towards the valley that I have to push my bum far behind the saddle. Only my elbows can't decide between "stretching" for more weight transfer and "bending" for more shock absorption. Fist-sized pebbles cover the path. If they weren't held in place by edges and gullies, they would probably roll downhill.
Sweaty, shaken, slightly bruised but grinning, we are soon sitting in a noisy horde of tourists. The Grünwaldhütte is just a short walk above the Pragser Wildsee lake. Our route from the opposite side was hard-won, but completely deserted. This makes the last two undisturbed hours all the more impressive. It only gets a little more crowded on the shores of Lake Braies. A tarmac road leads up from the valley to the hotel by the lake. Nevertheless, the view over the green mirror water with the mighty Seekofel behind it has a calming effect. The return journey first takes us along forest paths and then along the cycle path past the Olang reservoir. Michaela hadn't promised too much. So much variety in a one-day tour feels like a little journey.
The next day: Tibetan prayer flags flutter in the bitingly cold westerly wind. I would like to zip up my jacket now, but my hands are holding the bike on the rucksack. With great effort, I put one foot in front of the other to get the last few metres of the humble passage behind me. The name doesn't come from "humble", as my guides today, Arno and Markus, assure me. The two of them are bike hoteliers in Val Pusteria/Pustertal and have taken me to Sesto/Sexten today so that I can get to know another tour highlight: the Stoneman Trail by Roland Stauder. The former marathon extremist is also one of the region's practitioners. He simply had a good idea and quickly realised it in the Sesto Dolomites. The complete circular tour covers 120 kilometres and 4000 metres in altitude. Turn-offs are marked with cairns. There are also stamp points. Those who complete the route in one day are presented with a golden Stoneman trophy. Of course, Arno and Markus already have this award on their shelves - a point of honour as Pustertal Valley locals. However, the section with the humble passage is enough for me. Again, I'm really panting. When I read out my GPS data on my laptop in the evening, I realise why: a large part of today's route was at an altitude of over 2,400 metres.
Curious, I zoom in on the GPS track from our tour yesterday: the Furcia trail that pushed me to the limit has 62 hairpin bends! No wonder my forearms feel like they're crawling with cockchafers.
The best bike tours in Val Pusteria/Pustertal - Downloads
01 Pragser Wildsee / 50.84 km / 1423 m elevation gain / 5:05 h / Difficulty: difficult
The most beautiful lake in the Dolomites, printed on postcards and wall calendars to the point of kitsch, is just the visual cherry on top of the trail cream cake on this tour. By the time you reach the Pragser Wildsee lake with its tourist hype for a cappu stop, you have already done everything that makes a perfect - yes, perfect! - mountain bike tour. A wonderful flow trail in the forest with hairpin bends from Kronplatz, where you can take a cable car to the starting point. Then a brutally crisp ascent to the barren Kreuzjoch. From there, you balance on narrow paths in the unbeatable Dolomite scenery to the Grünwaldjoch. Braking and riding technique are now required to the maximum due to the incline and loose stones. Occasional pushing is usually more relaxed. This is followed by a trail-like roll-out to the cosy Grünwaldalm, where you can fortify yourself with South Tyrolean specialities before reaching the green mirror-like Wildsee lake in just a few minutes. Back to Olang with a few short intermediate climbs on gravel and cycle paths.
02 Hühnerspiel / 29.92 km / 1663 m elevation gain / 3:15 h / Difficulty: medium
The hens' playground is located on a ridge over 2000 metres high and wide open above the Tauferer Valley. And fortunately, a narrow path runs along the entire, gently sloping ridge. At the highest point, you should take a short break to enjoy the panorama over two valleys and the view of Kronplatz and the Dolomite peaks of the Fanes National Park. The path, which later consists of stone slabs, is neither easy nor child's play. The previous steep ascent to the Tesselberger Alm and a pushing passage have taken their toll, so now you have to keep your concentration together. And what the people of the Pustertal Valley call downhill flow trails are known in other regions as root-covered steam hammer trails. Relax your wrists, elbows and knees, the suspension will do the rest. On the way back to our starting point in Gais, we cover over 1300 metres in depth. The paths then really do become more flowy, but there are always significant gradients. Check your brake pads beforehand and take a spare with you!
03 Stoneman trails / 31.5 km / 910 m elevation gain / 3:30 h / Difficulty: difficult
The trail highlights of Roland Stauder's Stoneman tour: the tour on the Demut Passage is karstic and rocky. The trail is very exposed and runs at an altitude of 2400 metres. From the Passo Silvella, you hurtle downhill, cross green Alpine meadows to the Coltrondo hut and then wind your way back to Sesto.
04 Up the Speikboden / 46.4 km / 880 m elevation gain / 4:50 h / Difficulty: medium
Lots of single trail for little effort in the Tauferer Ahrntal: the gondola lifts up to 2000 metres below the Seenock. The route leads around the Speikboden on gravel and angular paved paths. After a rest at the Weizgruber Alm, the forest trail into the valley awaits. Take forest trail no. 7 up and down back to Gais. Or back on the cycle path.
05 Tauernalm loop / 42.2 km / 1270 m elevation gain / 4:15 h / Difficulty: medium
The rustic Tauernalm is located directly below the Krimmler Tauern. The Birnlücke at 2665 metres awaits at the end of the valley. Approach through the Ahrntal via the cycle path, the pleasant gravel ascent and finally on the path over to the alp. The way back to Steinhaus runs through the history of the valley with its ore mines.
The GPS data for all five MTB tours in Val Pusteria/Pustertal can be found below as a free PDF download.
Five things not to be missed in Val Pusteria/Pustertal:
1st Bergila visit The Bergila mountain pine oil distillery in Issing specialises in the production of herbal ointments, teas and essential oils. You can find out how the Niederkofler family does this on free guided tours from mid-May to the end of October from Monday to Friday from 8am to 12pm and from 1pm to 6pm. www.bergila.it
2nd Werschta Perhaps you know the (recycled) bag brand "Freitag"? There is a Pusteria counterpart to it: "Werschta" - which means weekday. The Werschta bags, wallets and mobile phone covers are made by people with disabilities in the Biedenegg workshop. These works of art can be purchased at Inso Weltladile in Toblach and at the sheltered workshop in Gais.
3rd Alpe Pragas Jams, chutneys, smoothies, syrups and schnapps from our own fruit cultivation. Only beet sugar and agave syrup are used for sweetening, and there are no colourings, flavourings or preservatives at all. The beautifully packaged products make a lovely souvenir to take home. Shop and guided tours: Monday to Friday from 8am to 12pm and from 2pm to 6pm. www.alpepragas.com
4. melchamuis A real South Tyrolean speciality can be found at the Alprechalm near Prettau: Melchamuis.
The recipe:
Melt 50 grams of butter in an iron pan, add 1 litre of milk. Stir in 2 tablespoons of white cornflour, ½ tablespoon of fine semolina, a pinch of sugar and salt with a whisk. Simmer everything over a medium heat for about 25 minutes and stop stirring so that a crust forms on the bottom. Leave to cool, pour over brown butter and refine with fenugreek flour and sugar.
5th Messner Mountain Museum RIPA The MMM Ripa in Bruneck Castle is part of a five-part meeting centre on the subject of mountains. Here, Reinhold Messner presents mountain peoples from Asia, Africa, South America and Europe. The "heritage of the mountains" can be experienced through dwellings, films and encounters. The MMM Ripa is open from the second Sunday in May until 1 November from 10 am to 6 pm. www.messner-mountain.museum.it
INFO PUSTERTAL
The area The 60-kilometre-long Pustertal Valley stretches from the Eisack Valley/Brenner motorway in a west-east direction and branches out into several valleys, each with its own character. The Kronplatz, the most famous elevation near the largest town in the valley, Bruneck, is heavily developed. To the north of Kronplatz, you drive around and up to typical South Tyrolean mountain pastures at altitudes between 900 and just over 2000 metres. To the south-west of Plan de Corones/Kronplatz are the stone-grey Dolomites of the Fanes-Sennes-Prags Nature Park, while to the far west lies the Sesto/Sexten Valley with the legendary Three Peaks as its landmark. The Tauferer Tal valley branches off to the north and becomes the Tauferer Ahrntal valley. The mighty Zillertal Alps form the border there. In spring, bikers can explore the lower regions around Kronplatz, while in summer and autumn the higher regions of the fantastic Dolomite peaks beckon.
Travelling by car: Brenner motorway, exit Brixen and continue into the Pustertal valley. Bruneck, Olang, Toblach, Gais and Sexten are suitable for overnight stays and as starting points for tours. Distance Munich-Bruneck: 260 km. If you prefer views of the Dolomites, head to Tauferer Ahrntal or Sexten.
Maps and tour information
Tappeiner: Bruneck and surroundings, 1:25000;
Leisure map Pustertal and side valleys, Olang and surroundings, Sesto and Braies Dolomites, both 1:35000; Kompass: Pustertal no. WK671 (3 maps in a set), 1:25000, Tabacco hiking maps no. 33-36
Accommodation
Accommodation with special services and GPS tours for mountain bikers can be found at: www.bikehotels.it, www.sentres.it and www.bike-holidays.com
Bike shops
Rainer Bike Shop & Workshop, Gais, tel. 0039/348/7260221;
Papin Sport, Bruneck, tel. 0039/0474/412124
General information
Tourist Info Pustertal: www.pustertal.org and www.kronplatz.com
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Gitta Beimfohr
Editor
