“It’s lovely to have you here!” Claudia, manager of the Hotel Steiner, welcomes us as if we were old friends – even though this is the first time we’ve met. No sooner have we parked our bikes than she’s already raving about the excursions on offer around Leifers. “Autumn is our most beautiful time of year,” she says, “the apples and grapes are being harvested right now.” Leifers lies south of Bolzano, nestled amongst seemingly endless apple orchards and bountiful vineyards – the youngest and southernmost town in South Tyrol. What was once an insignificant farming village is now one of the most important tourist destinations in the Adige Valley, characterised by the vibrant intermingling of German and Italian cultures. You can feel it everywhere: in the architecture, on the menus, in the conversations on the street. In spring, the region is transformed into a sea of white and pink blossoms; now, in the crisp autumn light, apple orchards and vineyards glow in vibrant shades of yellow, orange and red. The air smells of ripe fruit and damp earth. There’s hardly a better way to experience it than from the saddle.
A walk around the Mittelberg
Claudia’s cycling tip for the first day: a loop around the Mittelberg. “You’ll be cycling through vast apple orchards and vineyards time and time again,” she promises. We take her at her word and set off shortly after breakfast – the morning sun is slanting across the meadows, the sky is a flawless blue. From Leifers, we cycle southwards at first, along the Adige – at 415 kilometres, South Tyrol’s longest river. The cycle path is flat and wide, running alongside the gently flowing water; the surface is smooth and offers good grip. Perfect conditions for warming up slowly and taking in the surroundings at a leisurely pace. After just a few kilometres, we find ourselves in the heart of apple country. Around Leifers, Branzoll and Pfatten, some 500 hectares of apple orchards stretch out, cultivated by local family farms. Around 32,000 tonnes of apples a year – Granny Smith, Golden Delicious, Royal Gala and Pink Lady – have to be picked by hand. Just before Auer, we spot a group of ‘Klauber’, as the harvest workers are known here. Janosz, a Hungarian seasonal worker, proudly shows us the full crates, whilst his colleagues, standing on lifting platforms, pick the fruit. A few kilometres further on: Lake Kaltern – one of South Tyrol’s largest lakes and, thanks to its shallow depth of four metres on average, the warmest in the entire Alpine region. The water is 25 degrees. We take a break on a jetty, dangle our legs over the water and enjoy the peace and quiet. The cycle path then winds its way uphill through vast vineyards towards Kaltern. We are among the few ‘organic cyclists’ – almost everyone else relies on electric assistance and whizzes past us, some with barely concealed looks of pity. Vineyards dominate the northern side of the Mittelberg: this is where the grapes ripen for the famous ‘Kalterersee’, also known as ‘Vernatsch’, a light red wine that has been produced in the region for centuries. However, we deliberately decide to save the wine tasting for tomorrow. The reward for the climb comes straight away: a long, glorious descent towards Bolzano. The cycle path is wide, tarmac-surfaced throughout and very well signposted – with rest areas and sweeping views of the city, the castle housing the Messner Mountain Museum and the Dolomites on the horizon. On the way back to Leifers, we find ourselves once again in apple paradise as we cycle along the Adige. Just before we reach our destination, an exhausted harvest worker hands us two apples. You can tell from her face just how hard the work is. And yet she’s still smiling.
Along the Wine Route
On the second morning, we set off early – yet we are not alone. There is already a bustle of activity in the apple orchards along the Adige. The harvest workers are clearly making the most of the cool, crisp morning air for their strenuous work. We cycle deliberately slowly, breathing in the scent of autumn and enjoying the fresh morning air. North of Auer, we cross the Adige and, on the southern shore of Lake Kaltern, reach a vast wetland area with a dense belt of reeds. A path runs along wooden walkways right through the heart of the nature reserve – home to countless waterbirds, amphibians and fish species. After a short walk, we cycle up to Tramin, the traditional wine-growing village and home of the world-famous Gewürztraminer, a distinctive white wine variety made from yellow-reddish grapes. The Wine Route, along which we are now cycling south-west, is 150 kilometres long and runs from Nals in the north to the border with Trentino, passing through over 150 wine-growing villages. Between Tramin, Kurtatsch and Magreid, the cycle path winds its way through vineyards that are carved into the slopes like oversized chequerboard patterns – bursting with red and yellow grapes. Above Magreid, we stop for a break. Sitting on a wooden bench, half-hidden amongst the vines, we’re treated to a breathtaking view of the Adige Valley. “From up here, you can clearly see where the harvest has already been completed,” someone next to us says suddenly. An elderly man wearing a straw hat and carrying a walking stick has joined us. He explains the grey-black patches in the valley: protective nets against birds and hail, which are removed after the harvest. Luis, a winegrower from the Kurtatsch area who has dedicated his life to viticulture, spends almost an hour with us. What we didn’t know: The apple harvest is mainly carried out by foreign seasonal workers – the grape harvest, on the other hand, is a family affair, celebrated almost affectionately. All the relatives pitch in together; they eat together, drink together and celebrate together. “It’s not just work,” says Luis, and you believe him instantly. On the way back to Leifers, we drive alongside the Adige, whose broad banks alternate between gravel banks and dense riverside scrub. Just before we reach our accommodation, we spot Janosz, the Hungarian harvest worker from the day before, in the garden of a café – clearly enjoying a well-deserved evening off.
A trip to Bolzano
Bolzano is practically on our doorstep – a trip to the provincial capital is a must. First stop: St. Jakob, just a few minutes’ drive north of Leifers. At the organic shop ‘Emma con Gusto’, Marina is already waiting for us outside the door. The energetic, cheerful owner talks enthusiastically about the region’s apple industry – and about how, a few years ago, she discovered a surprisingly obvious gap in the market: there simply wasn’t a regional apple spread available. So she developed her own. Alongside natural juices, spicy apple chutneys and dried apple slices, she now produces spreads in a wide variety of flavours – all made entirely by hand, without preservatives or flavour enhancers. We sample our way through the range. Purely organic, and every single one a hit. We could easily stay for another hour. But we want to carry on to Runkelstein Castle on the northern outskirts of the city. Bolzano proves to be delightfully cycle-friendly – wide, well-signposted paths lead us effortlessly to our destination. We leave the bikes at the foot of the castle and climb the steep, cobbled path up to an imposing viewing rock. At the top, we’re greeted not only by a magnificent view but – thanks to Silvia’s unerring cultural instinct – a real highlight: secular frescoes from the late 14th century, which are among the best-preserved and most significant in the entire Alpine region. Courtly life of that era is captured here in vibrant colours. Some scenes make us smile – things were clearly already quite lively back then. Culture works up an appetite. So on we go to the weekly market at Siegesplatz. Saturdays offer the widest selection, and the crowds are correspondingly dense. We push our bikes through the throng, go with the flow, and take in the aromas of cheese, bacon and fresh herbs. We finally stop at a stall selling regional cheese specialities and fortify ourselves for the ride back. There’s no time for more – Claudia is waiting. Bolzano’s exemplary cycle signage guides us reliably out of the centre. Passing through Frangart, where Sigmundskron Castle and the Messner Mountain Museum tower majestically over the valley, we turn off towards Leifers. There’s a market here today as well. Wine tasting to round off the day: Claudia isn’t just a hotelier, but also a qualified sommelière. Several guests gather in the apple orchard in front of the hotel for a wine tasting. The atmosphere is lively – her commentary is as entertaining as it is informative and regularly draws laughter. The tastings of various South Tyrolean wines do the rest: guests who were initially quiet become more talkative with every round. We, too, are thoroughly enjoying the tastings – though we must admit that as our glasses grow emptier, we’re also growing increasingly tired. A fitting end to three unforgettable days of cycling in the apple town of Leifers.
The 3 star-shaped walks starting from Leifers
A loop around the Mittelberg: 40 km, 240 metres of elevation gain, approx. 3 hours, 90% tarmac, 10% unpaved,
Highlights: Vast apple orchards, Lake Kaltern
Between the Adige Cycle Route and the Wine Route: 46 km, 200 metres of elevation gain, approx. 3.5 hours, 90% tarmac, 10% unpaved, highlights: Wine Route, vineyards
Bolzano Circuit: 30 km, 150 metres elevation gain, approx. 2 hours, 80% tarmac, 20% unpaved,
Highlights: Runkelstein Castle, Bolzano city centre
At this point, you will find external content that complements the article. You can display and hide it with a click.
Information and tips for the star-shaped cycle routes in Leifers
Best time to visit
April, May (apple blossom) and September, October (apple harvest, ‘Törggele season’)
How to get there (Leifers)
Car: Bolzano transport hub (A22 motorway, SS12 and SS38 national roads); take the SS12 national road towards Leifers.
Traffic information for South Tyrol: www.suedtirol.info/de/de/information/mobilitaet/aktuelle-verkehrsinfos
Rail: Take the international service to Bolzano, then the regional train onwards to Laives (Important: bicycle booking is required on inter-regional trains).
Information/Booking: www.thetrainline.com/de
Train and bus timetables: www.suedtirolmobil.info/de/meine-fahrt/fahrplaene
Local transport With the South Tyrol Guest Pass, many forms of public transport are free of charge: www.suedtirol.info/de/de/information/suedtirol-guest-pass
Overnight stays
A wide range of accommodation options throughout the Adige Valley (all price ranges, including camping)
Overview: www.suedtirol.info/de/de/unterkuenfte/
Tip: Farm holidays, www.suedtirol.info/de/de/unterkuenfte/urlaub-auf-dem-bauernhof
Author’s recommendation for the Leifers location: “Hotel Steiner”, a family-run business now in its fourth generation, very clean and with extremely friendly staff, an outdoor swimming pool and a large campsite, www.hotelsteiner.com
Food and drink
South Tyrolean cuisine (Schlutzkrapfen, various types of dumplings, snacks), regional produce (fruit, vegetables, home-grown wine)
A good overview: www.suedtirol.info/de/de/essen-und-trinken
Tips: ‘Törggelen’ www.suedtirol.info/de/de/jahreszeiten/herbst/toerggelen
Editor's recommendation: Apple tasting and guided tour of the ‘Emma’ organic shop in St. Jacob, www.emmacongusto.com/startseite.html
Places of interest
What makes the region special is the landscape itself, with its apple orchards and vineyards. The main attractions at a glance: www.suedtirol.info/de/de/erlebnisse-und-events/plp-erlebnisse/tvs/leifers/
Nature of the tour and cycling infrastructure
All the routes we cycled: Very good cycle paths, with just a few short sections on quiet side roads. Around two-thirds of the routes are flat, one-third slightly hilly; the ascents and descents are not too steep. Plenty of lovely places to stop, rest and have a picnic. Very good signposting; all routes are family-friendly (allow plenty of breaks if travelling with children) and suitable for e-bikes. The whole region is well-equipped for cyclists. There are many excellent cycle paths, and in the towns (including Bolzano) there are usually dedicated cycle lanes. Cycle shops can be found in Bolzano, Laives and in the larger towns in the Adige Valley. There are places to stop for refreshments along the routes.
Important information
Leifers-Brazoll-Pfatten Tourist Information Centre, 39055 Leifers, info@laives-leifers.it, www.laives-leifers.it
General www.suedtirol.info/de/de/regionen/staedte/leifers
All tours in Bolzano and the surrounding area: www.suedtirol.info/de/de/erlebnisse-und-events/plp-erlebnisse/regionen/bozen-und-umgebung/radtouren
Special tips: South Tyrol Guest Pass: free travel on regional trains, regional buses and many cable cars, www.suedtirol.info/de/de/information/suedtirol-guest-pass
