Author: Peter Schlickenrieder
The winter sports resort of Madonna di Campiglio, perhaps familiar to some from the World Cup is nestled between the Adamello/Presanella group and the rugged Brenta Dolomites. They tower up in western Trentino, around 30 kilometres north of Lake Garda as the crow flies, and are part of the nature park and also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. At first glance, you wouldn't expect moderate e-bike tours here - rather bike parks for downhillers using the lifts. However, the infrastructure, such as public and free charging points, as well as the secluded valleys with often small tarmac roads are also ideal for e-bikers. There is a fascinating mix of rugged cliffs, mountain lakes with torrential rivers, mountain huts and restaurants with typical Italian flair to explore, inviting you to linger and enjoy. The mountain world, characterised by deep valleys and high peaks in the middle of the Trentino wine-growing region, provides a unique backdrop, while the gastronomic establishments with their regional specialities promote physical well-being at every stop.
While Madonna di Campiglio lies at an altitude of 1500 metres, we have chosen the lovely and romantic Caderzone Terme at 723 metres as the starting point for our tour in Val Rendena, one of the oldest villages in the valley, just 17 kilometres south of Madonna. It runs from there southwards to Lake Garda. Caderzone Terme is an ideal destination for wellness and sports holidays. The thermal spa of the same name with its iron-rich water invites you to relax and unwind after your cycle tour. As an alternative to cycling, you could also play a round of golf on the 9-hole Rendena golf course. However, we left both of these out and used the weekend for two beautiful tours, with a cosy stop-off and a nice glass of red wine in the evening.
Our first e-MTB tour takes us to the lakes of the Nambrone Valley, a side valley of the Val Rendena that branches off from it between Pinzolo and Sant Antonio di Mavignola. The route there is mostly asphalted, at least as far as the Rifugio Laghi di Cornisello at 2120 metres, and is easy to reach. Easy, because here we pedal continuously uphill with the second stage of support from our e-bike motors, always climbing gently and evenly.
From Caderzone, we cycle the first ten kilometres upstream to Sant Antonio on the cycle path towards Madonna di Campiglio. From Sant Antonio, we cycle briefly downhill on the main road, then after about one kilometre the path turns right again into the Nambrone valley. Passing the beautifully situated waterfall of the same name, we pass the Nambrone hut, where we stop for a bite to eat later. Of course, we also take a short walk to the waterfall. Several streams flow together here, creating a dreamy, fairytale-like water playground for young and old alike. The valley climbs up this narrow tarmac mountain road to the Cornisella hut (which is currently being renovated) - only the last few metres are sanded. Below the mountain peaks of the Presanella group, we enjoy the magnificent view over the valley. If that's not enough, you can climb a few more metres past the Cornisello lakes on a gravel road and continue on foot (approx. 30 minutes) to Lago Nero, still an insider tip, up to 2,280 metres. If, like us, you reach these heights in early June, you can still experience the snow that accumulates on the glaciers in winter and only disappears completely in midsummer. This meltwater reaches the lakes and feeds the River Sarca, which flows through the valley into Lake Garda.
As the Cornisella hut was closed for renovation work, we stopped off at the Rifugio Nambrone after the first part of the descent - and we definitely didn't regret it. With an Italian-style aperitif, we really enjoyed the cappuccino and cake break. More or less the same way back to Caderzone Terme.
We enjoy the balmy evening with a typical Trentino evening meal. Strangoli Preti ("Strangled Priest") is accompanied by the Trentino wine Teroldigo ("Tyrolean Gold"). At the Hotel Palazzo Albergo Lodron Bertelli, we feel like we've travelled back in time. The palazzo dates back to the early 14th century, has been extensively restored and is one of the landmarks of historic rural architecture in Val Rendena. The listed ensemble includes the Terme di Sant'Antonio spa and wellness centre, a chapel and the Museo della Malga. A calming aura.
Rested and refreshed, we set off again the next morning directly from Caderzone Terme. Initially in the same direction as yesterday, but then we turn off in the opposite direction at the start of the ascent into the centre of the Brenta mountains. So back on the mostly tarmac cycle path to Pinzolo and on along the Sarce river into Val Brenta. Up to this point, the route is slightly hilly. From the forester's lodge, the route is initially flat for around two to three kilometres, then the gradient increases steadily. It only gets really steep in the last few metres from the waterfall to the newly built Rifugio Valsinella hut. The waterfall is best explored on foot from the forest road (approx. 200 - 300 metres). There is also a refreshment stop at the Rifugio Caseata di Mezzo, but less than 30 minutes later you will reach the Rifugio Valsinella. There you can enjoy a glass of wine or beer and bacon and bread while watching the mountaineers ascending behind the hut.
The Vallesinella valley is one of the "gateways" to the alpine ascents to Cima Brenta and the Sosat via ferrata. The steep ascent from the waterfall is already behind us here and we can easily roll on to Madonna di Campiglio on a full stomach ... for a nice gelato and a cappuccino in the market square. The last part of the tour is then a downhill ride on a tarmac cycle path back to Caderzone.If you run out of battery in between, there are plenty of free recharging points in Madonna di Campiglio or at the mountain huts. There are few limits to the unadulterated and gentle e-biking in the rugged Dolomite rock!
39.1 km, 1,430 metres in altitude, 95 % asphalt and good gravel roads
From Caderzone Terme just west of the Sarca river, cycle slightly uphill on the cycle path to Pinzolo and Madonna di Campiglio. From the end of Pinzolo, continue briefly (approx. 2 km) on the main road 239 before turning left into Val Nambrone just before the village of Sant Antonio di Mavignola. From here, the mountain road, which is closed to motorised traffic, gradually ascends. Passing the waterfalls close to the Nambrone hut and continuing along water meadows, the route climbs steadily. The many metres in altitude are easy to manage, as over 95 percent can be covered on asphalt roads with an almost constant gradient. Battery charging is possible at the huts. The Cornisello hut at 2,120 metres also offers overnight accommodation.
37.7 km, 940 m elevation gain, 75 % asphalt, rest gravel
Initially back on the tarmac cycle path towards Pinzolo and Madonna di Campiglio. After Pinzolo in Carisolo, continue for two kilometres on the main road 239 to Sant Antonio di Maviignola (there is also a free charging station at the tourist information office here). Shortly afterwards, turn off in the direction of Val di Brenta. The route is well signposted from the forester's lodge on a gravel road that becomes steeper and steeper into the Vallesinella valley. From the waterfall (be sure to visit it briefly - 300 m on foot) comes the steepest section, which is around two kilometres long - then you have earned a hearty snack in the newly built Rifugio Vallesinella. From here it's all flat or downhill via Madonna di Campiglio (beautiful market square and ideal for a cappuccino break) back to Cardezone.
Motorway A 8 via Irschenberg to Kufstein and continue via the Brenner Pass on the A 22 to Trento Centro. Turn off onto the SS12 towards Riva del Garda. In Sarche, continue straight ahead on the SS237 into Val Rendena as far as Caderzone Terme.
The Brenta Dolomites Nature Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Madonna di Campiglio is a well-known ski resort. In the small village of Caderzone Terme, the Albergo Palazzo Lodron Bertelli, which belonged to a noble Trentino family and dates back to the early 14th century, is one of the landmarks of historic rural architecture in Val Rendena.
The head of the family, Don Gian Giacomo Bertelli, built a chapel on the south side of the palazzo (palace) in 1677. The entire complex also includes a spa (Terme di Sant'Antonio), the wellness centre and the Malga Museum, which is dedicated to the culture and history of everyday life on the mountain pastures and displays the tools used to make butter, cheese and other dairy products.
Caderzone Terme: Albergo Palazzo Lodron Bertelli (with e-bike charging station), Piazza S. Antonio 8, www.palazzolodronbertelli.it, Tel: +393358754925
Madonna di Campiglio: Best pizza at Ristorante Le Roi, Via Cima Tosa, 40,
www.ristoranteleroicampiglio.com/
Caderzone Terme: Sustainable and organic at Palazzo Lodron Bertelli (see above)
Tabacco map 053 Dolomiti di Brenta
Compass map 070 Adamello-Brenta
Lardaro TN, Zero Gravity di Lorenzi Davide, Via Nazionale 12,
www.zerogravitybike.it, Tel: +393934571219
www.campigliodolomiti.it/de/bike/e-bike
www.trentino.com/de/trentino/
www.dolomiten.net
Peter Schlickenrieder (53) is known to most people from cross-country skiing. He won the Olympic silver medal in the sprint as an athlete in 2002 and has been head coach of the German cross-country skiers since 2018, leading them to major successes such as Olympic gold in 2022 (women's team sprint). Born in Tegernsee, he is also active in a variety of sports and is often out and about on his bike - with or without a motor.