Below us, a patchwork of villages, forests, meadows and apple trees. Just like in the Black Forest, except you wouldn't need four days to cycle round a single valley.
Route finder Traian Grigorian shows me why the tour around the Val di Nons in Trentino takes so long when we finally reach the first vantage point of the tour after many steep metres in altitude. The 1879 metre high Monte Ori overlooks the entire mountain arena that surrounds the valley: Today we have fought our way from Clès, the main town in the valley, up the green Magdalen mountains to the north, and we are now climbing all the way round this top floor of the Val di Nons. Tomorrow we'll continue over the Gampen Pass to the south-east, up the famous Mendelkamm. The latter is actually known as a 1500 metre high precipice above Kaltern. However, its rear side, which we are overlooking from our vantage point, looks rather unspectacular, like a low mountain forest hill. In the far south, you can recognise the gorge-like entrance to the Val di Nons with its striking Rocchetta rock. The Mezzocorona trail jags down the steep face into the valley. A downhill test of courage from the 90s. "Don't worry, we'll skip it," Traian immediately brushes aside my unspoken concerns and concludes the tour with: "... and the sugared rock towers there in the west are already part of the Brenta." I am surprised. This valley is huge, lies in Trentino, is surrounded by well-known mountain bike mountains - and yet nobody knows it as a touring area.
The four-day MTB tour around the Val di Non is a total of 144 kilometres long and covers 5042 metres in altitude. You can find the GPS data for these four stages in the download area below:
- Stage 1: Clès - Our Lady of the Woods
- Stage 2: Our Lady of the Woods - Malga di Romeno
- Stage 3: Malga Romeno - Sporminore
- Stage 4: Sporminore - Clès
In Val di Non, people make a good living from growing apples, explains Traian. Nevertheless, the tourism association was very open when he presented his idea for a circular route a few years ago. Since then, he and a handful of motivated locals have been scouring the mountain arena for the best route. "As far as possible on trails, of course," emphasises the native of Allgäu and sinks into the alpine meadow next to the summit cross of Monte Oris. "There are some real treasures here," says Traian into the maw of his rucksack, digs out a crumpled aluminium packet and hands it over: Sand cake? With pleasure! You can't turn down Italian sand cake, there's nowhere juicier. "But there are also trail sections, and we had a long discussion about whether they were rideable or unrideable."
The trail descent on the east side of Monte Oris is actually quite difficult. Unrhythmic bends, roots, trees lying across and painful counter-climbs - with all the crushed sand trails in the world, I had almost forgotten that there are also natural trails that shy away from the flow like the devil shuns holy water. But the town sign of our first stage location immediately poured honey over my soul again: "Unsere liebe Frau im Walde" is the name of the small community with a pilgrimage church and flower meadows all around.
The waitress asks if we would like some homemade potato crisps with our cappuccino as we plop down in the garden chairs of the Hotel Zum Hirschen. Traian is surprised by the rather un-Italian culinary combination and I am surprised by the question asked in German. "We are here in the upper Val di Non, the so-called Deutschnonsberg, which is part of the German-speaking South Tyrol," explains hotel manager Mirco later over the finest five-course menu. I hadn't even realised that we had crossed a border somewhere. "Ciao, Giacomo!" Traian waves towards the door. A young Italian with a thick moustache, like the one Inspector Thanner wore in the Schimanski crime series, joins us at the table. Giacomo is a bike guide in the neighbouring Brenta region and has of course heard that the neighbours in Val di Non have now also designed a four-day tour à la "Dolomiti di Brenta". Also officially signposted, also with luggage transport, but with real trails. And he would like to have a look at these on the next two stages.
Giacomo doesn't seem to have taken the advertised trails very seriously, because the next day his feet are in very uncomfortable-looking race shoes with carbon soles. They don't get on well with either the slippery morning dew behind the Gampen Pass or the subsequent trail, which runs for two and a half kilometres through the forest but is completely crumpled by root-ridden mini ramps. For me, the trail is a significant improvement on yesterday in terms of flow, but that's easy to say with responsive flat pedals. Giacomo, on the other hand, is practising quick clicks in and out and occasionally gets his timing wrong. Only later, on the long gravel climb up to the Gantkofel, is he able to fully utilise his firm grip on the pedals again. By the time we reach the northernmost pillar of the Mendola ridge, the Italian has long since been looking into the abyss: the long mountain ridge, which looks so gently like a low mountain range from the Nonstal side, breaks off vertically into the Adige Valley on the other side. Just one step further and we would touch down in South Tyrol just a few direct flight seconds later. Bolzano and Merano lie down there like giant spider webs in the wide river valley. Behind them, the crème de la crème of the Dolomites crown the horizon: Schlern, Rosengarten, Langkofel, Geislerspitzen, Marmolada ...
This view remains with us for a few kilometres, as we now follow the Mendelkamm 30 kilometres to the south. "And on a secret mushroom-hunting trail that isn't even marked on the map," affirms
Traian asserts. However, nature doesn't seem to know about the path either, as our guide suddenly turns left into the bushes shortly afterwards. We stumble after him for a few metres through ankle-deep foliage and undergrowth until we suddenly find ourselves standing right on the edge of the Mendel ridge again. In fact, a gentle path strolls close, but not too close, along the precipice. This time, neither the roots nor the counter-climb spoil the flow. It simply flows smoothly. Giacomo wants to know how he found this path. "Pure intuition," Traian replies, not without pride.
Despite the flow of traffic, it is 4 p.m. before we reach the Ristorante Il Falchetto. We are the only guests on the hotel terrace and apparently the only visitors on the large plateau around it. But although the kitchen is closed at this time of day, Traian manages to whip out a plate of pasta for us in fluent Italian. "No pasta for me, just a wheat, please," Giacomo grates into the order. Really now? We stare at the young Italian in bewilderment. He looks back confidently. The steep climbs of the last few hours really don't seem to have bothered him much. Nevertheless, our guide Traian is worried: "There are two more really tough ramps to Malga di Romeno today. You'd better eat something!" But Giacomo remains adamant: no solid food during the effort! His coach told him that years ago. And why a wheat beer? Well, because of the electrolytes! But the alcohol ...? Giacomo shrugs his shoulders and brushes the moustache fringe from his upper lip - the wheat beer with its exuberant head is approaching. "It could be tight today," mumbles Traian as he eats, looking at his watch, the position of the sun and the map. It will be even tighter in the end, as photographer Wolfgang will slash his tubeless rear tyre before reaching Malga di Romeno, Giacomo and I will take a wrong turn and Traian will break his chain twice before reaching the hut.
It is thanks to Silvia from the tourism association that we are able to continue the tour the next morning. Not only does she shuttle our luggage to the next accommodation every day, she also took Traian's bike down to the valley last night to have it repaired. In the morning, when she takes it back up to the hut in the VW bus, she also has the freeride shoes and flat pedals Giacomo wants. Contrary to his usual habits, the Italian even has a hearty breakfast today, because as soon as he looks out of the window, he realises that the third stage also starts with a gravel ramp. It's the last 450 metres up to Monte Roen, the highest peak of the Mendel Ridge at 2116 metres. This time the climb is so steep that I don't know whether to push or carry, swear or cry. The accumulated lactate in my legs bites with every step. It doesn't even dissipate overnight. At least everyone else is pushing today. Now at the latest it becomes clear that the Tour de Non is not a touristic coffee ride. After the long ascent on the first day, the climbs are never particularly long, but they are always steep. Huts or refreshment stops are few and far between, and it is always uncertain whether the next downhill trail will help you to relax on nature trails. But after the 360-degree view on Monte Roen, the trails mean well for us all the way to the Graunerjoch. Challenging in places, but fun to ride, they end right at lunchtime at Malga Sores. "A very good pasta address", Traian had promised in advance. But not today, because a plump old lady shuffles out of the door and announces disarmingly honestly that she is too tired to cook today. Even Giacomo is affected. Even his finely tuned body is crying out for a panini today.
By the afternoon, we have left the trail-laden, lonely high mountain section of the tour behind us. Now we thread our way along tarmac mountain roads through a few valley villages. Tidy cobbled streets, village squares, espresso bars and expensive SUVs parked in the driveways. Then one last final ramp and we reach our next accommodation, the Agritur Sandro in the small mountain village of Sporminore. I am in a celebratory mood just as the tortei, a kind of Trentino potato pancake, with a mountain of tender beef fillet arrives on the table. The roughest ramps of the tour are over. According to the elevation profile, tomorrow we'll only be flanking the Brenta east face on Waalweg paths, which undulate almost ramp-free halfway up to Clès. "Or else ...", guide Traian sips his red wine again, "... or else we turn left tomorrow to Malga d'Arza. The hut is closed, but that would be an extra 1200 metres in altitude." I listen to my lactate-heavy legs and hear no cheers. "On a road that's as steep as you've ever seen it," Traian adds. Now I hear something: Ahahaha! No, definitely not.
GENERAL INFORMATION
The precinct
The Val di Non, also known as the Non Valley, opens up behind the gorge-like entrance at Mezzocorona. A large, wide valley in the north of Trentino with pretty little villages in hilly terrain. It is surrounded by 2000 metre peaks such as the Magdalener mountains, Mendelkamm, Paganella and Brenta. A tour around these scenic highlights is therefore a good idea. However, the paths on the mountain flanks above the apple orchards are mostly steep and the natural trails - especially in the northern area - are challenging. Mountain tourism seems to have been limited in Val di Non so far, as there are relatively few but authentic refreshment stops with genuine Trentino cuisine along the way.
Tour de Non 144 km, 5042 m elevation gain, 4 stages
Due to the dramatic landscape, it is best to start the tour in the main town of Clès. From the starting point at the bus station, signs will show the way from spring 2018. However, you should bring a GPS device and map (a guide can also be booked). The trails in the north are interspersed with roots and often have steep climbs (clipless pedals are a hindrance). From the Gantkofel, however, the trails are much more flowing. On the last day, there are two options to choose from: an easier route on Waalweg paths and a difficult one via Malga d'Arza (a very steep 1200 m ascent on an extra tarmac road) with a view of Lake Tovel and a steep gravel descent.
Accommodation
You can book accommodation and luggage transport before the start of the tour and take the opportunity to ask which huts along the route are open. There are not many refreshment stops, so always have a snack with you. The tour including accommodation with half board costs 195 euros per person. Can also be booked: Luggage transport (per bag and day: 15 euros).
Map and GPS data Compass map
No. 95 "Val di Non/Nonstal", www.kompass.at and 4Land, No. 155, "Val di Non". The GPS data for the tour can of course be downloaded free of charge: www.bike-magazin.de, webcode: #37528
Info
All questions about the route and accommodation list for self-bookers: www.tourdenon.it
General information: APT Val di Non, www.visitvaldinon.it
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Gitta Beimfohr
Editor
