Vertical rock faces, brittle rock and a daringly constructed path from wartime. Monte Toraggio is at home in Liguria. But not in the well-known Finale Ligure, but in Valle Nervia further to the west.
My great love is the Alpi Ligure, the last part of the Alpine arc, which crumbles rather abruptly towards the sea before taking a detour to the east and turning into hills in the Apennines. Between steep cliffs and beach views, edelweiss and olive groves, ibexes and goat's cheese, I lost my heart. A world full of contrasts that somehow seems to have fallen out of time. This region has been populated for as long as there have been people in Europe. But then industrialisation swept across the land and everyone has been moving away ever since. 90 per cent population decline, deserted villages - and lonely super trails everywhere.
But Adrian is fighting back. The Englishman moved to Valle Argentina 20 years ago and offers shuttle tours with his company Rivierabike. To do this, he tracks down old trails and clears them with a scythe and saw. Around 40 bike trails now lead from the Alta Via down into the Valle Argentina. Adrian has been similarly active in the neighbouring valleys of Roya, Nervia and towards Colle di Nava. And this is exactly where my favourite trail runs. To get to the start of the Toraggio Trail in Valle Nervia, it's best to hire a shuttle bus from Adrian. That way, you can pick up another super trail on the way back to Molini di Triora. If you prefer to ride up yourself, you can start in Pigna, but the ascent will take you half a day.
The Sentiero degli Alpini was created during the Second World War. It cuts through the Toraggio massif like a figure of eight. I always choose the more scenic route via the western flank for the ascent. Here the gradient is moderate and entertaining with views of the sea and Provence. Adventure bikers who are not afraid of heights can alternatively climb up the eastern side. Here you are immersed in a high alpine world, eagles soar along the steep walls and everything is a little reminiscent of the famous Val d'Uina. Both variants meet again at the Passo del Incese. For sporty riders, the next section of the route can still be pedalled, while everyone else will have to push - but will also have more of a view: the view stretches from Mont Viso to Corsica. A few metres below the summit, the time has finally come: your eyes are fixed on the trail, which now brings a full 1700 metres of descent! Blocky at first with a few fun hairpin bends. Then it gets faster and faster along a playful ridge path, through an earthy rollercoaster and finally down to Pigna along historic donkey tracks. This descent has everything a biker could wish for, and: it simply doesn't end!
Down in Pigna, you can roll through a beautiful old town or look for the hot springs in the river, which are said to bubble up. I've only managed to find the cold ones so far, but I'll keep looking.
Author Harald Philipp (33): The bike mountaineer has found a new second home in Valle Argentina in the hinterland of the Ligurian coast and has bucked the trend by buying a house there. Thank goodness the trails are already there.
Info about the Toraggio Trail
Best base camp for this region is the lovely village of Molini di Triora. Most tours start here, there is good accommodation (Hotel Santo Spirito) and the shuttle starts from here.
The best way to reach the start of the Toraggio Trail is by shuttle to Colle Melosa. The remaining ascent by bike.
Info: www.riviera-bike.com
If you want to do the entire ascent by bike, the best place to start is Pigna in Valle Nervia.
