The only region in the Italian boot without a coastal section - which probably puts other holidaymakers off - made me really curious. Umbria - that sounds like an insider tip for mountain bikers, I think. Quite different from Tuscany and Liguria, where thousands make the pilgrimage every year and then all tell the same trail stories. After all, other Italian regions such as Valle d'Aosta, Piedmont, Trentino and South Tyrol don't have access to the sea either, but instead boast sensational, high alpine trails and the most beautiful panoramas. However, we will also have to do without this on our trip to Umbria. Although there is a showpiece peak, the 2476 metre high Monte Vettore, it resides in the Apennines and is far away from the spot tip we were given. Our sat nav guides us from the motorway exit through an idyllic, green hilly landscape to Panicale. A tranquil little village, 35 kilometres west of Perugia. From here, you can see neither the Apennines nor the sea on the horizon. Not even a picturesque avenue of cypress trees catches the eye. I admit: the "Ah!" experience is yet to materialise here. That only comes when we park in front of our accommodation, Villa Rey.
It's a disgrace to talk about this woman like this, but Silvia Rey, our landlady, is the sister of trial legend Hans 'No Way' Rey. Why the shame? Because the next few days will show: Silvia is a real doer herself, a power woman and mountain bike pioneer. The feats that made her brother famous on the bike are achieved by Silvia here without any fanfare, sponsors or hall of fame. In 1989, she founded Alps Biketours, one of the first bike organisers in Germany, before moving to Umbria with her husband and setting up this gem in the middle of this blank spot on the biking map. She turned a derelict farm into a modern wellness resort with a pool, mapped out the entire network of trails in the Umbrian hills with her bike and GPS and delights her guests with her vast knowledge of the local cuisine.
Chocolate mousse with olive oil
Artichokes really do taste completely different when Silvia tells us at the large, communal guest table about the arduous task of finding out when to harvest these flower heads. She also knows the challenges facing the organic farmer from whom she bought this delicate carpaccio for our dinner this morning. And that the incredible creaminess of her chocolate mousse can only be achieved with a very special olive oil. Outside in the garden, a gentle spring breeze is still blowing after dinner. A cloud of pollen puffs out of the huge poplar tree, under which one of the other guests has made himself comfortable with a glass of wine and is strumming his guitar. An almost kitschy scene, but one that immediately puts us in holiday mode and later puts us to sleep in our guest cottage.
Then for breakfast, the first pulse-quickening piece of information for me: snakes. There are poisonous vipers here. We shouldn't stroll carelessly through tall grass during today's tour and it's best to avoid natural toilets. But in over 30 years of bike guiding experience, Silvia adds reassuringly that she has never had to treat a bite. Nevertheless, I'd better not let the flanking tufts of grass out of my sight on the climb up to the Castello di Mongiovino. But soon the scent of thyme lulls me and the ancient walls of the castle come to the fore. Corn poppies sprout from the stone cracks. A magical place with a sweeping view of the landscape, deserted. There is often a lot going on up here at the weekend, says Silvia. That's when the villagers from the surrounding area get together for small festivals.
Our next vantage point is an old tower surrounded by cypresses, pines and dead tree skeletons. We make an entry in the summit book, then we come into contact with our first trail: The "Rollercoaster" throws out its earthy curves in the slope. Four kilometres of rich flow, garnished with stones and rocks, past a golf course and Ferrucio Lamborghini's vineyards. After selling his sports car company, he retired here as a winegrower, Silvia tells us from the Umbrian sewing box.
"Double easy" sounds inviting for an uphill trail, but Silvia grins and we quickly realise that the name is meant very ironically. A constant 15 per cent gradient needs to be pushed up here. Once we reach the top, we roll straight through a brick archway and into the medieval alleyways of Panicale. We stop off at a bar in the piazza and Silvia orders a "Torta di Testo" for everyone - a flatbread from the wood-fired oven with prosciutto and pecorino. As this poem of a sandwich melts in my mouth, I can't believe that we have this place to ourselves. Next door, in Tuscany, this place would definitely be a tourist hotspot!
Why the Umbrians can easily do without the sea
The next day, Silvia takes us to a place that is also very popular in Umbria. We climb up a sparse oak forest on a typical strada bianca (dirt road) and eventually reach the summit cross of the 853 metre high Montarale. It's the highest mountain in the region, again there's not a soul in sight, but there's a very cold wind blowing. "That's exactly why people from the valleys prefer to stay up here in summer," explains Silvia. "Down below, the heat is simply unbearable on some days."
I wouldn't complain about an extra ten degrees at the moment, but while putting on my jacket I spot a giant mountain on the horizon and Silvia nods: Monte Vettore! So you can see the Apennines from here after all. But the real reason for the long climb up the "Arale" is called the "Bone Crusher Trail". I'm still feverishly wondering whether there could be some irony involved, but we really do have two kilometres of sloping slate slabs, large rock formations and steps at different heights to contend with.
Only in Greppolischieto, an old mountain village, do our bikes have a short break. From the fortress wall, we can see the reason why the Umbrians can easily do without a stretch of coastline by the sea: Lake Trasimeno. With its islands, it is reminiscent of Lake Chiemsee, but is almost twice as big. Silvia points towards the eastern shore of the lake: "Tomorrow we'll cycle all the way up to Passignano with a view of the lake. You'll love the enduro park there. But for now, we're off to Sergio's," says Silvia and I suspect it has something to do with delicious food again. And it's true: one trail later, we're sitting under olive trees and savouring the spicy, hot oil of their fruit on freshly toasted white bread. You really don't need the sea anymore.
Info Umbria
The precinct: Umbria lies at "calf height" of the Italian boot and is the only region in the country that borders neither the Mediterranean nor another country. Capital: Perugia. The hills around Lake Trasimeno have the character of low mountain ranges, while in the far east the Apennines with the Monti Sibillini (trail bans in the national park!) rise almost 2,500 metres into the sky. For mountain bikers, however, the almost deserted hills around Lake Trasimeno are more interesting.
Relaxed cruisers can wind their way along the Strade Biance (wide sand and gravel paths) from viewpoints to the next medieval mountain village. A new cycle path was recently opened directly on the lakeshore, but you can also cycle around the lake on a scenic mountain trail. Those who turn onto the trails, on the other hand, should be prepared for challenging terrain. There are no built flow trails here. Although the paths are cleared, you will have to deal with natural obstacles such as steps, rocks, roots and scree. The same goes for the climbs: they are not long, but often painfully steep.
Journey: You can travel by train to Chiusi Chianciano or Perugia. However, the rest of the journey to the small villages is almost impossible by public transport. The easiest way to get to Umbria is therefore by car (distance from Munich to Panicale: 770 km).
Overnight stay: There are campsites around Lake Trasimeno, but also plenty of Airbnb offers in and around historic town centres. And at really favourable prices compared to Tuscany.
However, we would recommend Silvia's Bike Resort Villa Rey. Here you get the all-round package with wellness, pool, guided or GPS tours and delicious Umbrian cuisine. Info: www.villarey.euTel. 0039/339/6855155.
Passignano Enduro Trail Park: Trails have been built near Passignano, on the northern shore of Lake Trasimeno, since 2016. There are now also flowlines here. The entire offer: 3 enduro trails (Gym, Twingym and Trenoline), 5 all-mountain trails (Folletto, Xmas, Filodiretto, Cappuccini, Olivastro and 8 XC trails (Poggio, Belveduto, FotonicaIntro, Carbonaia, Nemesi, Tokio, Cerquasasso, Coccinella, Bellalago. There is no ascent aid, here the focus is entirely on e-MTBs. All information about the trail area: www.trasimenobike.it
Best touring time: Snow rarely falls in the Umbrian hills, so you can cycle all year round. However, spring and the harvest season from September (wine) to November (truffles!) are the best, as it is not too hot then.
