Wonderfully peaceful, unspoilt and great fun – that’s how one of our tour writers described his mountain bike trip to the Ultental valley in South Tyrol at the end of June. A weekend during which many other regions were talking about “overtourism” – queues at the ski lifts, overcrowded terraces at mountain huts, convoys of shuttle buses and overused trail sections. He, on the other hand, had enjoyed a completely relaxed ride through a sea of blooming alpine roses, marvelled at 850-year-old ancient larch trees and stopped off at alpine huts with traditional shingle roofs. Up at the Innerfalkomai Alm, he’d even discovered a trail that he’d like to ride again as soon as possible.
In fact, the Ulten Valley is one of the quieter regions in South Tyrol. Less than 30 minutes’ drive from Merano, it lies somewhat inconspicuously on the map between the two mountain-biking hotspots of Vinschgau and Paganella Bikepark. Yet its valley stretches for almost 40 kilometres, offering spectacular views all the way up to the 3,000-metre peaks of the Stelvio Pass National Park.
The natural 3-zone cycling area
The best-known cycling destination in the Ulten Valley is probably the Rabbijoch – a notoriously gruelling challenge for all those crossing the Alps who have climbed into the Ulten Valley via the Vigiljoch. As they continue their journey southwards, this 2,449-metre-high pass, with gradients of up to 25 per cent, ultimately awaits them. It’s a gruelling challenge, during which the valley’s true beauty is, of course, often overlooked. Yet it’s well worth venturing deeper into these mountain slopes. Hardly any other region in South Tyrol has preserved its unspoilt character as well as the Ultental.
The Ultental valley is characterised by its unspoilt trails spread across three levels: At the valley floor, at an altitude of around 1,000–1,200 metres, you cycle along the banks of the Zoggler Reservoir and, between St Pankraz and St Gertrud at the head of the valley, pass through a string of quaint villages with sacred names. Halfway up, forest tracks offer plenty of fun: soft as velvet and offering good grip, though certainly dotted with roots. Above the tree line, at altitudes of over 1,800 metres, alpine paths await. Technical and rocky, yet offering magnificent views of the Ortler Group and stretching far beyond the Merano region. Anyone wishing to shorten the rather challenging climb through these three zones can hop on the Schwemmalm gondola and set off from the top, at an altitude of 2,100 metres, on the sun-drenched slope. The only important thing is to join the most beautiful trail loops on the descent and not to miss the chance to stop off at one of the particularly rustic huts. For the Ultner cuisine is just as unspoilt as the network of trails: from fresh alpine butter and traditional poppy seed doughnuts to Herrngröstl with beef and potatoes – almost all the ingredients come from the region.
The three most beautiful MTB rides in the Ulten Valley
Here are the three tours.
1. Riemerbergl Alm
- Length: 20 kilometres
- Ascent: 985 metres in altitude
- Difficulty: medium
Tour description
At the same altitude, with the path occasionally more or less blocked, a long trail winds its way from the Marschnellalm to the rustic Riemerbergl-Alm. The view is fantastic, stretching from South Tyrolean Dolomite landmarks such as the Schlern and the Rosengarten to the foothills of the Ortler, which, at over 3,000 metres, border the valley to the west. Before the trail fun begins, however, the Ultner Heiligen have laid on a long, gruelling climb. From St. Walburg by the reservoir at 1,100 metres, you pedal upwards in countless loops, first on tarmac via Gigglhirn and then on gravel via the Schweinsteig to the Marschnellalm at an altitude of 2,220 metres. After a short section where you have to push your bike, the 4B trail demands full concentration and determination on the rocky sections. It then winds its way down through larch trees to the rustic Riemerbergl Alm, the perfect place for a break. In the second section, the trail puts on another spectacular show. Along meadow and forest paths, interspersed with short gravel sections, you cruise back down to the valley floor at Kuppelwies, where your disc brakes can enjoy their well-deserved final cooling break.
2. Tour: Innerfalkomai Alm and Mariolberger Alm
- Length: 36.1 kilometres
- Ascent: 1,495 metres in altitude
- Difficulty: medium
Tour description
With a roar and a gurgle, the Kirchbach streams down into the valley alongside the Holperpfad, whilst butterflies flit over the flowering alpine meadows – the descent from the Inner-Falkomai-Alm is a natural idyll like no other. Unless, that is, not only have odd-shaped and jagged boulders made themselves at home on the path, but also some particularly laid-back cows. In that case, the average cyclist might well find themselves forced out of the saddle more often than usual. Nature trail specialists, on the other hand, will welcome Trail 3B as an exciting challenge. In contrast, the final forest track between Schildegg and St Walburg is once again a leisurely, winding treat that everyone can enjoy.
A recommended stop: the simple but cosy Innerfalkomai Alm (2,050 m). Alternatively, turn right onto Trail No. 8 at Hühnerspiel (km 16) and then make your way along Trail No. 9 to the Mariolberger Alm for a stop there. This also allows you to avoid the somewhat rough trail along the Kirchbach.
3. Schwemmalm
- Length: 20.9 kilometres
- Ascent: 1,030 metres in altitude
- Difficulty: medium
Tour description
Minimal elevation gain – if you use the Schwemmalm cable car to help with the ascent – maximum riding enjoyment and a particularly lovely place to stop for a break: even the start of the ride from the Innerschwemmalm is a dream. The path slopes down into a larch grove, as wide as a towel. It’s stony and bumpy, mind you, but not too steep or too technical. Yet that was only the beginning. After a short stretch where you have to push your bike uphill, the 12A narrows to the width of three tyres. Narrow and rugged, it now winds its way at an altitude of 2,000 metres from the Schwemmalmen pastures towards the Schusterhüttl. Always hugging the slope. The panorama is sensational, but there’s little time to marvel at it. Numerous rocky sections repeatedly call for a short, powerful burst of speed. At the same time, you need to take the weight off the rear wheel. What often looks impassable at first turns out to be a bumpy section that can be smoothed out with determination. The route is challenging, but it’s definitely one of the highlights of the Ulten Valley.
Places to stop for refreshments: There are two places to stop for refreshments along the route: the Äußere Schwemmalm (2,145 m) and, about 5 minutes further on, the slightly more secluded Innere Schwemmalm (2,093 m).
Information about the Ultental valley
Getting here
Just 20 minutes from Merano lies the entrance to the Ulten valley, known in Italian as Val d’Ultimo. To get there by car: take the Inntal and Brenner motorways to the Bolzano South exit. Continue along the MeBo to the Merano South exit, then head towards Lana and follow the signs for the Ultental valley. Distance from Munich: 325 kilometres, journey time 3 hours 30 minutes.
Accommodation
At the Life Balance Hotel AROSEA in St. Walburg, you don’t just stay in an alpine nature hotel with excellent regional cuisine; there’s also a large wellness area and, in Thomas Gerstgrasser, a hotel manager who’s known the Ultner Trails for 20 years. On request, he’ll even join you on a tour as a guide or give you access to the hotel’s well-stocked GPX library. Perfect: the Schwemmalm cable car’s valley station is just 500 metres from the hotel. Info: arosea.it
Women’s Camp with Well 2 Fit
Gaby Buchner from Well 2-fit has been organising ladies’ cycling camps at the AROSEA Hotel in Ultn for several years now. Information and dates: well2-fit.de
Bike hire
At the Schwemmalm Cable Car valley station, there is a well-stocked bike hire shop offering all types of bikes, including accessories and a repair service. Info: rentandgo.it
Cable car
The Schwemmalm cable car operates from the end of May to the end of October. Daily from 9 am to 5 pm; on Sundays and public holidays from 9 am to 6 pm. Information: merano-suedtirol.it
General information
ultental-info.de
Gitta Beimfohr
Editor