Military trails100 years of the First World War

Gitta Beimfohr

 · 27.07.2014

Military trails: 100 years of the First World WarPhoto: Matthias Rotter
Military trails: 100 years of the First World War
July 2014 marks the centenary of the beginning of the First World War. Today, the former battlefields of the Dolomite front offer bikers an eerily beautiful opportunity to experience history.

Cannon fire instead of cowbells ringing: When travelling through the picture-book landscape of the Dolomites today, it takes a lot of imagination to picture heavy artillery battles between the rocks. Or entire mountain peaks that were first hollowed out, then filled with tonnes of explosives and finally blown up together with the enemy. Today, you don't have to look far for old war relics such as rusty barbed wire and bullet holes. The path that winds its way so adventurously up the mountain in front of you is almost certainly a silent witness to the war. From the moment Italy declared war on the Austro-Hungarian Empire on 23 May 1915, the First World War also broke out on the Dolomite front.

This war of position stretched from the Ortler in the west to the Carnic Alps in the east. Forts were sometimes spectacularly built into the rock faces; trenches were dug in the summit regions. In order to secure supplies, the soldiers on both sides had to build paths up to these positions. Some of them zigzag through rock faces, others tunnel through the mountain in a corkscrew shape. This was done as far as possible so that the enemy was unaware of the troop movements. Fighting, blasting and killing took place along the Dolomite front until 4 November 1917. Added to this was the catastrophic winter of 1916/17, in which 60,000 soldiers alone lost their lives in avalanches. There was no winner on this front. The fighting was eventually stopped. Only Monte Grappa remained under constant fire until the end of the war in November 1918. So if this mountain war brought anything positive at all, it was a network of paths that no other mountain range in the world can boast. Let's use it to commemorate the hundreds of thousands of fallen soldiers!

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1st Sette Comuni

History In May 1916, the Austrians launched a massive "spring offensive" on the Asiago plateau. It was intended to break through to the Adriatic. However, the attack was poorly planned and supplies came to a standstill due to Italian resistance.

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The tour: Monte Ortigara (62.9 KM | 2410 HM)
You can find the area guide including tour roadbooks here ->

  Tunnels pierce the rocks on the plateau; military roads lead to the forts at a pleasant incline, and the supply trails cling to rock faces, some of them adventurous. At some vantage points you can see as far as Venice. War history at every turn.Photo: Ralf Glaser Tunnels pierce the rocks on the plateau; military roads lead to the forts at a pleasant incline, and the supply trails cling to rock faces, some of them adventurous. At some vantage points you can see as far as Venice. War history at every turn.


2nd Monte Grappa

History In October 1917, the Austrian troops made a breakthrough in the 12th Battle of the Isonzo. To avoid being surrounded by the enemy, the Italians abandoned the Dolomite front and barricaded themselves with all their might on Monte Grappa. The battles were correspondingly fierce and bloody. The Italians were able to hold the mountain - Monte Grappa has been a legend in Italy ever since.

  A veritable work of art of a network of paths stretches across Monte Grappa. Almost like a marble run, you roll down a steep rock face on Sentiero 153. At first glance completely unrideable, but then a real miracle of a path for experienced hairpin bends. From the old front path, you can see far across the Po Valley.Photo: Ralf Glaser A veritable work of art of a network of paths stretches across Monte Grappa. Almost like a marble run, you roll down a steep rock face on Sentiero 153. At first glance completely unrideable, but then a real miracle of a path for experienced hairpin bends. From the old front path, you can see far across the Po Valley.


3rd Marmolada

History The Austrians had drilled a system of tunnels under the ice armour of the Marmolada. In the "ice city" they were safe from the Italian enemy. But on 13 December 1916, a huge avalanche broke loose and buried the camp. This largest avalanche accident in history claimed 300 lives.

Tour: Porta Vescovo (20.35 KM | 477 HM)
The Marmolada itself cannot be climbed by bike. However, the closest you can get to it is on the opposite mountain, Porta Vescovo (2549 m).
All info: www.bike-gps.com

  You can cycle up there yourself from Arabba - or, more conveniently, take the lift (preferably at 8.30 in the morning). Once at the top, you can enjoy the magnificent view of the ice carapace. Information boards explain the events of the war in these mountains. Downhill, you follow a panoramic trail over three kilometres to Passo Padon and perhaps stop for a bite to eat before heading back down to Arabba on sensational trails.Photo: Ralf Glaser You can cycle up there yourself from Arabba - or, more conveniently, take the lift (preferably at 8.30 in the morning). Once at the top, you can enjoy the magnificent view of the ice carapace. Information boards explain the events of the war in these mountains. Downhill, you follow a panoramic trail over three kilometres to Passo Padon and perhaps stop for a bite to eat before heading back down to Arabba on sensational trails.


4. pasubio

History Pasubio is also known as the "mountain of 10,000 dead". For two and a half years, the warring parties faced each other on the two plateau-like peaks. Both sides drove tunnels into the mountain to undermine the enemy. Finally, on 13 March 1918, the Austrians detonated a charge of 55 tonnes of dynamite under the Italian plateau. Despite a huge explosion with an incredible number of casualties, the Italians were able to hold their position.

Tour: Pasubio - Road of Heroes (28.7 KM | 1130 HM)
All information and further tours with top-researched historical background by Ralf Glaser: www.trails.de

  The famous 52-tunnel tour with the corkscrew tunnel has unfortunately been closed to bikers for years. However, the classic route "Road of Heroes" also has an exciting route and lets you experience war history up close.Photo: Marco Toniolo The famous 52-tunnel tour with the corkscrew tunnel has unfortunately been closed to bikers for years. However, the classic route "Road of Heroes" also has an exciting route and lets you experience war history up close.


5th Cortina D'Ampezzo

History The Fanes Group towers into the sky above the roofs of the fashionable ski resort. The front line stretched across its rock towers. The Austrian lines ran from the Small Lagazuoi via the Fanes Forcella, the Travenanza Valley to the Fanes Passes. The Italians sat on the three Tofanes, the Formenton and the Col Rosa. In July 1916, the Italians repeatedly launched waves of attacks with heavy infantry fire, but it was only with an explosive charge in the Tofana that they were able to push back the Kaiserjäger. Among them was Luis Trenker, who recounted these experiences in his film "Mountains in Flames".

Tour: Fanes - Cinque Rifugi (47.8 KM | 1736 HM)
Tour information: www.bike-gps.com

  The Fanes Valley is one of the most impressive landscapes in the Dolomites. This tour circumnavigates this "Grand Canyon" from Cortina, passing five wonderfully situated refreshment stops along the way.Photo: Jörg Reuther The Fanes Valley is one of the most impressive landscapes in the Dolomites. This tour circumnavigates this "Grand Canyon" from Cortina, passing five wonderfully situated refreshment stops along the way.


6th Col di Lana

History The "Blood Mountain" in the Fanes Group was first occupied by the German Alpine Corps, then by the Austrian Kaiserjägern. The Italians repeatedly tried to storm the summit - and suffered heavy losses. Both sides began to undermine the summit. The Austrians blew it up on 5 April 1916 - without success. The Italians blew it up twelve days later, forcing the enemy to flee to the Siefsattel.

Col-di-Lana tour (16.4 KM | 850 HM)
Tour information and GPS data at www.trails.de

  A short but very tough loop around the fiercely contested mountain. The traces of the war are unmistakable along the entire route, you can even find shrapnel (see photo on the left). From Livanallongo, first steeply up to the war museum, then on trails to Plan de la Mina (partly exposed) and on to Siefsattel, where the trail again crosses a very exposed mountain flank.Photo: Ralf Glaser A short but very tough loop around the fiercely contested mountain. The traces of the war are unmistakable along the entire route, you can even find shrapnel (see photo on the left). From Livanallongo, first steeply up to the war museum, then on trails to Plan de la Mina (partly exposed) and on to Siefsattel, where the trail again crosses a very exposed mountain flank.


7th Sentiero della Pace Monte Ortigara (540 KM, 28 hiking stages)

The Peace Trail follows the front line between Trentino, then part of Austria-Hungary, and the former Kingdom of Italy: from Passo Tonale to the glaciers of the Adamello and through the Valli Giudicarie to Lake Garda. The route continues to Rovereto, over the Pasubio to the high plateaus of Folgaria, Lavarone and Luserna (Sette Comuni) and over the Lagorai chain to the Marmolada. Unfortunately, some sections are not suitable for bikers. Info: www.visittrentino.it/grosserkrieg

  Sentiero Della Pace - Monte OrtigaraPhoto: BIKE Magazin Sentiero Della Pace - Monte Ortigara

Gitta Beimfohr joined the BIKE travel resort during her tourism studies when the Strada delle 52 Gallerie on the Pasubio was closed to mountain bikers. Since Gitta crossed the Alps twice at racing speed, she has favoured multi-day tours - by MTB in the Alps or by gravel bike through the German low mountain ranges.

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