No story about the Brenta Dolomites is complete without the bear theme. Although the bike region has Master Petz in its logo and advertises with bear-friendly trails, the brown fellows are simply nowhere to be found. Even Davide Aldrighetti, who has been biking in the Brenta for years, only knows the "ruler of the forest" from the tourist brochures. But what Davide knows really well and definitely personally are the trails on the Brenta circuit. I struggle to stay on his rear wheel on the winding descent from the Rifugio Peller in the forest down into the Val di Sole. Davide simply lets off the gas for a very long time before the bends, and because I don't want to lose him, my discs are already making themselves known with a slight smell of burning. Fortunately, my discs can cool down on the last few kilometres of cycle path along the river to Dimaro.
We are currently on the middle section of the Expert Route, a signposted route that takes us completely around this 30-kilometre-long dolomite colossus. We are not actually travelling around a mountain range, but a reef that emerged from a tropical sea over 200 million years ago. Today, only the typical structure of the Dolomites bears witness to this prehistoric phase: steep, jagged rock needles and mighty boulders, at the foot of which rubble is deposited. Further down, the green regions of the forest and alpine pastures follow. The fact that the Dolomites rise so abruptly is one of the characteristics of the prehistoric reefs and is clearly visible in the Brenta.
Several of these peaks to the west of the Adige Valley reach over 3000 metres into the sky. Geologically, the Dolomiti di Brenta belong to their relatives on the eastern side of the Adige Valley, even if the deep rift in which the Brenner motorway runs gives the opposite impression. The Dolomites as a whole were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2009.
The Brenta region is less crowded, especially in high summer
Even without official consecration, the Brenta region is a dream for mountain bikers, the whole area is much quieter and, especially in high summer, not as crowded as the Sella or the Three Peaks, for example. "I never get bored, even though I've been travelling here for several years. The landscape is beautiful and I'm still discovering new trails that I want to integrate into the trail network one day," Davide tells me. His dream is to add freeride and trail variants to the Expert circuit. Davide also has his own preferences in mind - he surfs the trails of the Brenta with 160 millimetres of suspension travel. In addition to his job as a guide, Davide Aldrighetti works on the programming of the Dolomiti Brenta bike website and was instrumental in the development of the signposting. How he manages to juggle all of this is a mystery to me. But apparently he still has plenty of time for biking, as his pain-free downhill style proves.
One of his favourite places on the tour is the Rifugio Peller at over 2000 metres above sea level. The hut warden used to own an electrical company, travelled a lot in the mountains and at some point decided to sell his shop and just run the Rifugio on Monte Peller. He now does this with heart and soul, and mountain bikers are his favourite guests. Although it is already late in the afternoon and the last guests have just left, Roberto grabs some ham and cheese from the freezer for us. He brews a cappuccino to go with it, which raises our blood pressure again in a flash.
But when the bottle of mountain hut schnapps arrives on the table, I wave it off. On the descent from Peller, we rush down 1200 metres in altitude into the Val di Sole, the sunny valley that separates the Brenta Dolomites from the Adamello giants. The densely leaf-covered forest paths demand blind trust, but Davide surfs unerringly down the hairpin bends. At the bottom, it gets a little wetter, the paths softer, and when the forest spits us out in Malè, we - but above all our bikes - look like we've been mud-catting. No problem, the bike hotel in Dimaro naturally has a steam jet in the underground car park, and I warm up my tired bones in the sauna in the large wellness area.
Highlight of the 2015 bike season: MTB World Cup Val di Sole
The UCI Mountain Bike World Cup series is returning to Val di Sole. Val di Sole is one of seven locations worldwide that will be organising the MTB cross-country, downhill and four-cross competitions in 2015. Mountain bike trails, spectacular tours through the Brenta Dolomites, high adrenaline consumption on the downhill trails, national MTB guides, this is where the biking world meets: all this and much more makes Val di Sole a real biker's paradise!
The World Cup tour starts in Nove Mesto/Czech Republic, continues to the North American continent and finally returns to Europe: from 21-23 August 2015, the most important competition, the MTB World Cup final, will take place in Val di Sole in Trentino. Val di Sole will also host the UCI MTB World Championships in 2016. Further information on: www.valdisolebikeland.com
Another village in the Brenta Dolomites is also living off the fame of an official racing event: Madonna di Campiglio once again organised a FIS slalom in December 2014. A typical ski resort that tends to be a little sleepy in summer and autumn and is therefore opening up more and more to mountain bikers. From the centre of Madonna, 1500 metres above sea level, we enjoy a relaxed ride to the Cascate di Mezzo, wide waterfalls that cascade down a steep rock face.
Davide is less interested in the roaring spray than he is in trying out a narrow path below the Cascate. Bingo, a marvellous rollercoaster. We glide through the forest on round ramps and giant slalom bends before we have another view of the mountain peaks at the clearing at the entrance to the Vallesinella valley. From then on, Davide's mobile phone keeps ringing and I ride ahead at a leisurely pace. The signposting on the Brenta Tour is exemplary. Not only are there signs at crossroads and junctions, but the distance and altitude metres uphill to the next prominent point on the route are also indicated on every marker. In conjunction with the official Dolomiti Brenta bike map, you always know where you are and what lies ahead.
Alone, I follow the steadily ascending gravel path in the dense forest up to Malga Valagola just before the small mountain lake of the same name. If there was a prize for an immaculate mountain idyll, this place would deserve it. Not even the almost 300 metres in altitude that you now have to carry. At the top of the Bregn da l'Ors pass, you are halfway up to the highest Brenta peak, the Cima Tosa. A glance at the map tells me that we are now exactly opposite Lago di Molveno, which we passed at the start of the tour. Due to the many trail sections and the countless ascents and descents, I didn't realise that we had almost come full circle.
For the Finale Grande, Davide leads me through the cosy Val Algone, where side valleys with mountain pastures and huts open up again and again and the wide path runs straight ahead, always beautifully downhill. I shoot out of the valley in a daze, we are back at the starting point two hours earlier than expected. We didn't even spot a few paw prints of Bruno and his friends. What a pity!
Downhill fun in the Paganella bike park with a view of the Brenta
In the Paganella ski area (summit 2124 m), groomed trails, berms and the usual elements such as Northshore constructions or drops await - all with a huge view of the Brenta Dolomites. An enduro trail leads naturally downhill in the forest. Operator Ezi Cattani is apparently a cinema fan, otherwise the names of the lines in the Paganella Bike Park Apocalypse Now", "Easy Rider" and "Fight Club".
The village of Fai della Paganella can be reached via the Brenner motorway and the San Michele/Mezzocorona exit and then via Mezzolombardo. In addition to the chairlift, there is a shuttle service, bike hire and guided tours. Info (Italian and English): www.paganellabikepark.com, e-mail: info@dolomitipaganellabike.com
The Val di Sole Bike Land offers six different routes of various levels - from a downhill run for a relaxed warm-up to a World Cup route and a 4Cross track. Info on: www.valdisolebikeland.com
Top Tour: Expert Tour Brenta
Two routes circle the 30-kilometre-long Brenta Dolomites massif, whose highest peak, the Cima Tosa, measures 3173 metres. It is rare to experience so much variety in five days. Bike guide Davide Aldrighetti showed me the best spots. We started from Terme di Comano. Through vineyards and olive trees, we respectfully approached the rocky giants of the Brenta up and down the hills. You pass pretty little villages like Moline, where time has stood still. On the shores of Lake Molveno, we cruise along flowing trails and gaze at the white-grey towers of the main massif. The route climbs from Molveno to Andalo, then rolls along lonely trails to Sporminore, the entrance to the Val di Sole.
The highlights of the Expert Tour are a crisp ascent. From Cles above the Lago di Santa Giustina, you wind your way up the donkey ridge, the Dosso dell'Asino, to Monte Peller at 2320 metres, which is 1300 metres in altitude in one go. After a rustic overnight stay in a mountain hut, which you should plan for, the route descends quickly along the valley cycle path to Dimaro. To the famous ski resort of Madonna di Campiglio and a possible detour to the Rifugio Graffer, you have to climb another thousand metres in altitude. The route rushes through dense forests to Lago di Valagola, where the only stretch of the route (300 metres in altitude) awaits. From the Bregn da l'Ors pass, you are rewarded with an incredible view of the Brenta. On trails and gravel, the route then heads towards Val Rendena, circles Monte Iron or takes the really worthwhile variant through Val Algone and rolls back via Stenico.
Info Dolomiti Brenta Bike (GPS download below)
Bike routes
The routes in and around the Brenta massif are fully signposted and the circuits are on two levels. The Country variant is easier than the Expert tour described above (171 km, 7700 metres of altitude) with the highest point at Rifugio Graffer (2262 m). It covers 136 km and 4600 metres in altitude and runs one level lower. The highest point here is at 1650 metres.
These tours can be organised or ridden at your own pace. They are optimally signposted with details of distance and altitude metres to the next important points on the tour. Almost 100 hotels are included as partner businesses. You can have your luggage transported from one station to the next for a daily fee of 15 euros (per day/person).
You can also book complete packages with Dolomiti Brenta Bike. There are four variants, three to five days, from four people with costs ranging from 198 to 475 euros per participant. In addition to the circuits, so-called Explorer tours are also available. Six of these are signposted (230 km/10300 metres in total). They lead to the foothills of the Adamello glacier, to the high plateau of Monte Gazza with fantastic views over Lake Garda and the Brenta, or into wild valleys and up to mountain pastures such as in the Val di Breguzzo.
Regions and location
The landscape of the Dolomiti Paganella ranges from the green apple orchards in Val di Non to the low mountain range around Terme di Comano and the alpine rock faces in Val di Sole, Madonna di Campiglio and Val Rendena. The Valli Giudicarie lies below the Adamello glacier. To the north, the Rabbi Pass and the Mendel Pass border the Brenta, to the south the Lago di Toblino near Sarche.
More information on the Internet: www.dolomitibrentabike.it
Bike shops
In Madonna di Campiglio, Giustino, Molveno, Tione, Andalo, Cles, Malè, Dimaro, Folgarida, Commezzadura. Addresses and telephone numbers in the Dolomiti Brenta Bike brochure.
Accommodation
Accommodation specialising in mountain bikers can be found on: www.dolomitibrentabike.it/de/adv/bikehotels
Events
UCI MTB World Cup Final Val di Sole, 21-23 August 2015; Val di Sole will host the UCI MTB World Championships in 2016
Maps
Official Trail Map DBB, 1:50000 at the tourist office or dolomitidibrentabikeshop.bigcartel.com, Compass map no. 73, Gruppo di Brenta, 1:50000. 4Country map no. 124, Val di Sole MTB, 1:40000
Arrival
Depending on the starting point. From the Brenner motorway via Bolzano to Caldaro and over the Mendola Pass into Val di Non and Val di Sole. Take the Trento exit in the direction of Lake Garda to Sarche and via the SS 237 to Terme di Comano.
Nature Park
Ten brown bears were released in the 620 square kilometre Adamello-Brenta Nature Park between 1999 and 2002, and there are probably around twenty on the move at the moment (minus Bruno), which you will hardly see as a biker. Info (Italian and English): www.pnab.it
You can download the GPS data for the tours described above free of charge at the end of this article.
