“My hand, holding the grappa, is trembling slightly – that must be the after-effects of Tremalzo…”, wrote Andi Heckmair in BIKE 8/91. But perhaps it was also the immense relief that he had come through this undertaking unscathed. In the summer of 1990, the idea of cycling from Obersdorf to Lake Garda on a mountain bike in seven days was still fraught with many adventurous uncertainties: Which routes in the high mountains are actually rideable? How would he manage to find his way? Which rucksack was best for his clothes? And what on earth do you actually need on such a long tour? The choice of bike also had to be carefully considered. At the time, Heckmair sought advice from Wolfgang Renner, managing director of Centurion. Although the first RockShox suspension fork was just beginning to revolutionise the European market, Renner advised Heckmair against it: “If anything goes wrong with it along the way, no one will be able to help you. You’re better off taking the rigid fork – it’s lighter too.”
The route drawn on the map with a ruler
Heckmair was just as meticulous in his route planning as he was in choosing his kit. When asked how he’d come up with this original Transalp route, he later replied: “With a ruler”. He’d placed it on a map at home in Oberstdorf and initially drawn a line to Bolzano. But that didn’t really result in a logical route. So he aligned the ruler towards Lake Garda – and: bingo! Here, mule tracks opened up which, as a former mountaineer and road cyclist, he could easily picture. To be on the safe side, however, he set off to explore the biggest unknowns one by one before the big tour. So it took two years before he finally set off on the big trip with a friend.
Stage 1: From Oberstdorf to the Freiburger Hütte
- Length: 43 kilometres
- Uphill: they didn’t have an altimeter with them back then
- Route: Oberstdorf – Schrofen Pass – Warth – Lech – Rauhes Joch – Freiburger Hütte
“Two gruelling climbs with a long section where you have to carry your bike give you an early taste of the physical demands. It’s not too late to turn back yet!” Even the very first stage description didn’t sound very encouraging. This, of course, referred to the Schrofen Pass, just beyond Oberstdorf, with its climbing section on the rock face. You also have to concentrate very hard on the ‘trail paths’ towards Lechleiten.
Stage 2: Freiburger Hütte – Klosters Dorf
- Length: 56 kilometres
- Route: Freiburger Hütte – Dalaas – Bludenz – St. Gallenkirch – Gargellen – Schlappiner Joch – Klosters Dorf
“The descent across the rugged Sattelalp and then left via Dalaas is a real challenge. Even die-hard riding technique enthusiasts have to push their bikes in some places,” wrote Heckmair.
Stage 3: Klosters Dorf – S-Chanf
- Length: 39 kilometres
- Route: Klosters Dorf – Davos – Gasthof Dürrboden – Scaletta Pass – S-Chanf
On this stage, it was above all the “barely passable mountain track over the Scaletta Pass” that had particularly taken Heckmair’s fancy. As had the descent through “the magnificent Val Susauna”
Stage 4: S-Chanf – Bormio
- Length: 42 kilometres
- Route: S-Chanf – Chaschauna Pass – Livigno – Passo Alpisella – Bormio
“Today marks the highlight: we’ll be crossing the Central Alpine ridge.” Heckmair’s ‘queen stage’.
Stage 5: Bormio – Edolo
- Length: 78 kilometres
- Route: Bormio – Santa Caterina – Gavia Pass – Ponte Legno – Edolo
Heckmair struggled with this stage because there was only one logical route southwards: the tarmac-surfaced and heavily trafficked Gavia Pass.
Stage 6: Edolo – Pieve di Bono
- Length: 53 kilometres
- Route: Edolo – Cedegolo – Passo di Campo – Pieve di Bono
This stage is probably the one that drew the most criticism for Heckmair, as even today you still have to push your way up and down the rough, scree-covered Passo di Campo for 4–5 hours. Heckmair’s description at the time read: “The route runs high above Lago Arno, climbing gently towards the Passo di Campo (approx. 2.5 hours). This is followed by a steep, narrow descent to Lago di Campo, which demands courage and absolute control of the bike.”
Stage 7: Pieve di Bono – Riva del Garda
- Length: 87 kilometres
- Route: Pieve di Bono – Storo – Passo Ampolo – Passo Tremalzo – Riva
“On the last day, the programme really consists of nothing but a leisurely bike ride.” For Heckmair, too, the Tremalzo was the “grand finale” of the tour.
Back home, all hell broke loose
It was one thing that *BIKE* magazine wanted to run a feature on him. But then *STERN* magazine came knocking too, and shortly afterwards a television crew from Bayerischer Rundfunk travelled to Oberstdorf to film a feature on Andi Heckmair and his Transalp. As a result, the tour is still regarded today as THE pioneering Transalp route across the Alps.
The route is still ridden today for cult reasons. Especially as the dreaded Passo di Campo in the Adamello region is much more rideable on an e-MTB. However, from today’s perspective, the route contains too many tarmac sections. As early as 1995, touring guru Achim Zahn, alias Serac Joe, ventured to ‘improve’ the Heckmair Route. That said, this ‘Joe Route’ is in turn worthy of its own ‘cult tours’ article...
In any case, Andi Heckmair has guided people along his original route on numerous occasions. Sometimes with, sometimes without a team of photographers or a television crew. Today, the Transalp pioneer is 85 years old and can still be found in his bike shop in Oberstdorf.
Gitta Beimfohr
Editor