On the Grand Tour through the Dolomiti Lagorai region, the name says it all. Spiced up with individual day tours, you cross the five areas of the region, each of which is worth a week's biking holiday in itself. You can choose whether to start in the high-altitude Dolomite regions of Val di Fassa or begin the tour in a clockwise direction in the south. The starting point there is Levico Terme at the Lago di Levico lake of the same name, not far from Trento. A new area has been added for 2016: The Piné Plateau and the Cembra Valley serve as a connecting stage between Valsugana and Val di Fiemme. This means you can complete the tour in four to seven days. In total, the route covers 267 kilometres and 9657 metres in altitude. In summer, you can use the lifts, which are in operation from mid-June to mid-September, to save a few metres in altitude.
I meet Massimiliano Chemelli, a savings bank employee and part-time bike guide in the Lagorai region, on the shores of Lake Levico. I briefly consider making myself comfortable on the beach and enjoying the magnificent view of the Dolomites. His sporty, super-light hardtail and the thighs bulging out of his tight bike trousers don't bode well. Max, as he introduces himself with a firm handshake, is probably one of those Italian cross-country rockets. He is supposed to show me a few highlights of the region, as they are also included in the Grand Tour. After a brief discussion, we agree on a rather harmless-looking, shorter loop above Levico, which offers sweeping views and takes us to the Val dei Mocheni, the Fersental valley. This is only part of the first stage of the Grand Tour, which in its original form continues over the Palù Pass and the Manghen Pass to Cavalese in Val di Fiemme.
Singletrail surfing Valsugana: better than flying
Fortunately, we cover the tarmac climb up to Vetriolo in the shuttle to save on sweat. The small provincial road winds its way up Monte Fronte in countless hairpin bends. Exactly 1000 metres in altitude later, we are at the starting point of the Tour delle Pozze. Apart from us, there are a few paragliders here. In the slightly sleepy little village, there is only a little life in the bar opposite the car park - this must be due to the unearthly view down to the Valsugana and the Brenta Dolomites opposite.
Shortly afterwards, as Max pedals leisurely up the forest path with the chain on the middle chainring, I'm left breathless. Like a hamster on a wheel, I pedal at top speed and still can't keep up. This guy is even fitter than I feared. I'd love to swap places with the fat guy from earlier, who was so relaxed under his paraglider.
But on the descent on a super-narrow single trail from La Bassa, I realise that I've landed in the right sport after all - you can hardly have more fun flying. Slight gradient, towel-wide path in the alpine meadow. There are just enough stones on the ground and later roots in the forest to keep you focussed but not overwhelm you - perfect. Later on, the trail descends in steeper hairpin bends and over a few higher steps to the gravel road towards Rifugio Serot. A little satisfaction for me: Max promptly shoulders his hardtail at the tricky sections and prefers to watch me chirp round the hairpin bends on my 140cc fully. "I thought you'd like the trail," he grins. "I've ridden a lot of races. I know from experience that I'm faster on foot in places like this." Although the menu at Agritur Rincher sounds tempting, we only grab a quick double espresso, which turns out to be a good idea. Because after the break, it's uphill again and Max has no mercy. I'm really glad when I see the little bar in Vetriolo again.
The next day, I explore the opposite side of the valley with Daniele Acler, guide and co-owner of a bike hotel in Levico. An old military road from the First World War leads us to the Lavarone plateau and the ridge of the Cima di Vezzena. From here, too, the view extends as far as the pale towers of the Brenta Dolomites. As a highlight, Daniele has planned a descent along the old Kaiserjägersteig trail, which he would like to offer as a tour for his bike guests. But it's hairy. In many places, the trail descends vertically to the left and is often less than a metre wide - a head for heights, bike control and good nerves are essential for this exposed biking fun. At the bottom in Quaere, I first have to shake out my cramped forearms. A dream for confident bikers, a nightmare for everyone else. "That was just a small section of the network of military roads," Daniele assures me over the final cappuccino. I'm happy to believe that; these two days alone have shown me the incredible range of the Valsugana.
San Martino di Castrozza, Primiero and Vanoi: fun and adventure in the heart of the Paneveggio - Pale di San Martino Nature Park
The next day, Giancarlo guides me alone over the Passo Rolle into the region's dream valley, the Val Venegia, above which the pale spires and towers of the famous Pale di San Martino tower. This region is an absolute must for every mountain biker. Riding right along the foot of the impressive walls and then looking back from Passo Costazza is hard to beat. On the Grand Tour, this is part of the fourth stage and you then spend the night in San Martino di Castrozza.
Giancarlo, who speaks perfect German, can only rave to me about the other tours in Val di Fassa, which can also be easily reached using the ski area's cable cars. Of course, the classic tour around the Sella massif should not be missing from the list. Or the relatively tough tour to Val Duron and the marvellously situated Micheluzzi hut. From the Pordoi Pass, above Canazei, there are further dream tours, accompanied by the Queen of the Dolomites, the Marmolada with its characteristic large, snow-covered summit.
If we could follow the Grand Tour, we would go from San Martino di Castrozza up to the Passo della Gobbera, on to Canal San Bovo and through the Val Cia, from where we have to work our way up to the Passo 5 Croci. With a view of the Cima d'Asta massif, the route then descends for almost twenty kilometres to Telve Valsugana. The sixth and final day of the stage then completes the loop: via Agritur Rincher to la Bassa and down to Levico Terme - I would be exactly on the tour from the first day. After these highlights in the various corners of the Lagorai, I realise that the Grand Tour is firmly on my list. Preferably with all my new Italian friends. But Max is only allowed to ride at the front on the last day.
Pleasure biking at its best in Val di Fiemme
Change of scene. Instead of travelling by bike, the transfer to Val di Fiemme is by car. The head of the Dolomiti Experience bike school, Giancarlo Bettin, is waiting for me there. Although he also rides a hardtail, he takes a much more relaxed approach to the climbs than his colleague Max from Valsugana. We also have four Italian guests with us, for whom riding fun clearly takes precedence over physical exertion. To warm up, we take the gravel roads from Cavalese up to the Passo Cugola (Ball Pass) and on to the Passo d'Oclini. This region is explored on the third day of the Grand Tour from Cavalese and Predazzo. The postcard-perfect Dolomite backdrop of the Catinaccio and Latemar rises up before us, one hut after the other is ready for a stop - pleasure biking at its best. The famous Latemar circuit can be reached by lift from Predazzo to the Feudo Pass. You then reach Obereggen and from there it's on to Lake Carezza. After four kilometres of ascent, you reach the Passo Costalunga, from here you cycle downhill again to Moena and on the cycle path back to Predazzo. This tour circles the impressive Latemar mountain massif and offers some of the most impressive panoramas in the Dolomites. Further information can be found at www.visitfiemme.it
Spectacular backdrop for gravity bikers and families alike
It took a snowboarder to realise the potential for bike parks in the Val di Fassa ski region. The 38-year-old William Basilico is in charge of the Belvedere Bike Park Resort near Canazei. Trails could hardly be more spectacular than here. From the Col dei Rossi (2383 m), the route descends below the Pordoi Pass into the village (1450 m). Three variants (DH, fourcross and freeride) have been created. Due to the altitude, the park usually only opens in mid-June and closes at the end of September. The climbing aids run from 8.30 am to 12.30 pm and 1.45 pm to 5.20 pm. Further information on www.fassa.com/bike
San Martino di Castrozza also focusses on downhill fun and dirt games. The San Martino Bike Arena is wild and varied. The routes run through the forests of Alpe Tognola. Breathtaking bends, jumps and man-made wooden elements lead over a total height difference of over 500 metres into the valley - against the magnificent backdrop of the Pala Group. In addition to the newly revised downhill course, the portfolio also includes enduro and cross-country trails. Depending on the snow conditions, the park usually opens in mid-June and closes at the end of September. It is then open continuously from 08:30 to 17:00. Rental bikes are available on site on the 1st floor of the valley station of the Tognola gondola lift at Bike SkiSport. Further information on sanmartinobikearena.com
Valsugana and Val di Fiemme, on the other hand, cater to the needs of leisure cyclists and families with moderate all-round offers and various e-bike projects. The cycle paths past Lago di Levico and Lago di Caldonazzo lead into the unspoilt hinterland.
The top tours in the Dolomiti Lagorai Bike region (GPS download below)
Valsugana - Tour delle Pozze
This high-altitude circuit starts at over 1400 metres in the small village of Vetriolo and runs along the slopes of Monte Panarotta, between the Valsugana and the Valle dei Mocheni. The car park at a small bar is also the starting point for paragliders. Sweeping views towards Bassano del Grappa and down into Valsugana characterise this loop, along with two other plus points: an ingenious single trail with a slight gradient parallel to the slope and several huts for refreshments, such as the Agritur Rincher. If you ride the route in a clockwise direction (contrary to the information on the MTB map), your thighs may burn on the first ascent as there is no time to warm up, but there is definitely more downhill fun to be had in this direction. From the highest point, La Bassa (1830 m), the route descends on trails, forest paths, gravel and tarmac. After stopping for refreshments at the Rincher, there are still a few metres of elevation gain on the way back, which you could really do without.
Cavalese passes and mountain pastures
Yokes and passes to the limit and one of the most beautiful views of the Dolomites: the high, steep reefs of Catinaccio (Rosengarten) and Latemar. Before this panorama, however, there are almost 1000 metres of altitude on the speedometer, which you have leisurely climbed from Cavalese to the Kugeljoch. The subsequent loop around the Corno Nero with a view of the Corno Bianco takes you to the Passo d'Oclini and on to the Passo di Lavaze, which marks the border between Trentino and the province of South Tyrol. The biggest problem on the tour is choosing where to stop for lunch. The mountain pastures seem to want to outdo each other with their panoramic views. The first stop would be the Grundinalm. The Auer Leger hut has the only disadvantage of deviating from the route, with an additional 80 metres in altitude. Malga Varena offers the widest view to the south-east as far as the Schlern. They all have delicious pasta, and fortunately it's only downhill back to Val di Fiemme afterwards.
Val Venegia - Pale san Martino
Directly below the Pale di San Martino - majestic and elegant mountains made of limestone once deposited by corals - an old military road leads along in several loops and wonderfully pedalling gradients. A dream compared to the previous climb to Passo Lusia. Accompanied by Cimon della Pala and Cima della Vezzana, you conquer Passo Costazza in complete peace with yourself and everyone else. From the Baita Segantini located there, you can treat yourself to a cappuccino and look back with pleasure. An equally marvellous terrace awaits at the Capanna Cervino, whose photos depict the skiing and cross-country skiing legends of the region. You rush down through the ski area to Lago di Paneveggio and along its eastern shore. The narrow Sotto Sassa gorge, which leads us back to Predazzo, is a real bear. The tour starts there with a long asphalt ascent to the Lusia ski area and is then a combination of no. 232 and no. 234 on the Val di Fiemme bike map. If you only want to explore the Val Venegia, you can also do this in 22 kilometres.
Malga Stramaiolo - Moila di Piné
This medium-difficulty tour starts and ends in Miola di Piné. The route runs along the western and north-western flanks of the Dosso di Costalta, Pontara, Stramaiolo and Campidei mountains. The first part runs entirely through the forest and leads to the pastures of Malga Stramaiolo Bassa, where you can also stop for a bite to eat. From there, the panorama opens up onto the plateau and the Brenta Dolomites. The way back leads past three lakes in the valley via the village of Brusago to Baselga di Piné. Two sections - around 250 metres in total - require you to push your bike.
Info Dolomiti Lagorai
Bike routes
45 signposted bike tours add up to 1150 kilometres with 42,000 metres of altitude difference under the umbrella of the Dolomiti Lagorai region. New: The Grand Tour (6 days) in a clockwise direction starts in Levico Terme and covers
320 km/8800 metres in altitude. The anti-clockwise tour starts in Moena and covers 353 km/10470 metres in altitude. But: Lift use possible!
Regions and location
The Valsugana lies between Trento and the Veneto, the bathing lakes Lago di Caldonazzo and Lago di Levico are located at an altitude of around 500 metres and are starting points for tours to the surrounding mountains. The season here can start as early as April and last until October. Info: www.visitvalsugana.it/bike
The Val di Fiemme is a cross-country skiing paradise in winter; the largest towns are Predazzo and Cavalese. On the northern side of the slope, tours lead up to the Jochgrimm and the Lavazé Pass on the border to South Tyrol with panoramic views of the Latemar and Rosengarten. To the south, the Lagorai group rises with peaks up to 2800 metres. Info: www.visitfiemme.it
The Val di Fassa The most beautiful Dolomite peaks such as the Sella, Rosengarten, Latemar, Langkofel and the impressive Marmolada with its typical snow-covered surface lie all around.
The plateau of Piné and the Valle di Cembra are particularly suitable for mountain bike beginners due to the special nature of the terrain and the many flat trails. Among the most popular tours are those around the various lakes, especially the two lakes "Serraia" and "Piazze" on the Piné plateau. However, there is no shortage of more challenging trails, such as to Costalta, Malga Stramaiolo or the Redebus Pass.
Sella Ronda The mighty Sella massif towers like an impregnable fortress over the villages of Selva, Corvara and Canazei. But mountain bikers can conquer the fortress in just one day: with the help of the mountain railway. Canazei at 1500 metres is the starting point of the Sella Ronda, covering a good 50 kilometres and 3500 metres in altitude in an anti-clockwise direction, only around 1500 of which you have to pedal yourself. Clockwise: 60 kilometres, 4380 metres in altitude (net to pedal: 730). www.fassa.com
San Martino di Castrozza has the best view of the Pale di San Martino. Nine bike hotels of different categories welcome mountain bikers. A downhill/freeride trail is to be opened on the Alpe Tognola with gondola, and the bike park with two downhill trails is called the San Martino Bike Arena. www.sanmartino.com
Bike shops
A total of 27 bike shops are spread across the entire Dolomiti Lagorai Bike region. Specially equipped bike shops, among others: In Levico Terme, Pergine Valsugana, Caldonazzo and Borgo Valsugana. In Cavalese, Predazzo, Ziano and Tesero. In San Martino di Castrozza and Primiero. In Moena, Soraga, Pozza di Fassa, Canazei. Shops, shuttles and mountain bike schools can be found on the website www.dolomitilagoraibike.itfilters for the individual sub-regions facilitate the search.
Accommodation
Click here to go directly to the Overview of bike hotels and accommodation in the Dolomiti Lagorai region
Maps
Bike maps Valsugana, San Martino di Castrozza and Primiero, Val di Fiemme and Val di Fassa from the tourist office. Compass maps no. 686 Val di Fassa, no. 618 Val di Fiemme, no. 622 San Martino di Castrozza, no. 75 Trento-Levico-Lavarone and no. 621 Valsugana-Tesino, 4Land map no. 107 and 108, Val di Fiemme Orientale and Occidentale.
Arrival
The Valsugana can be reached in 30 minutes via the Trento exit on the Brenner motorway. In July and August, the regional train from Trento has space for 32 bikes. From Easter to September, a bus transports bikes on the Trento-Bassano route (only at weekends). The Val di Fiemme and Val di Fassa regions can be reached via the Egna/Auer exit, from there it is a 30-minute journey to Canazei. From Predazzo it is a 30-minute drive via Passo Rolle to San Martino di Castrozza, 20 minutes further on to the Primiero Valley (12 km).
Tour literature
Bike-Guide Dolomites, Ralf Glaser, Delius Klasing Verlag, www.delius-klasing.de
All further information about the region can be found on the website: www.dolomitilagoraibike.it
You can download the GPS data for the tours described above free of charge at the end of this article.
