The clouds are rising towards us at a speed as if a huge pot of milk is boiling over down there. I can only just warn the other two with a "Fog!" before their silhouettes have already disappeared into the white nothingness. A moment ago we were standing safely in the middle of a steep slope, now I have the feeling that I'm about to free fall. A moment ago there was a view across to Calabria, now it doesn't matter whether I open or close my eyes - I can't see a thing. Unfortunately, we left the path shortly before because we wanted to surf down a gully into the valley. So now we're standing there rooted to the spot. Not a single step further. It could be the last one on Europe's highest active volcano, Etna, which is currently 3329 metres high. Vittorio had hinted at something along these lines. Our bike guide from Sicily said that the only point of reference was a prominent rock where we should turn right. You couldn't miss it under normal circumstances. And then just surf the ideal line downhill. But now we're up here and Vittorio is waiting for us at the bottom, at the end of the descent. At the end of the tarmac road on which he previously shuttled us by bus from Catania up to 2000 metres. This is the highest point you can reach by car on Mount Etna.
The largest and highest island in the Mediterranean offers real top spots for spring and autumn.
Journey
Plane: TUI flies regularly from Germany to Palermo and Catania. Bike transport: 50 euros return. Flight time: from Munich approx. two hours. Car: Distance from Munich: 1700 km. Plus many roadworks and enormous tolls. Then better by ferry: from Genoa to Palermo in approx. 24 hours.
Info: www.tirrenia.it
Best touring time
Mid-March to June and September to November. On Mount Etna, the snow can remain until April. But warm clothing is a must above 2000 metres, even in summer!
Etna activity
Every 1-3 years, so-called flank eruptions occur, i.e. cracks and fissures from which lava flows gush out. When Mount Etna is very active, flights to/from Catania can sometimes be cancelled. Last major eruption: October 2002 to March 2003, when 900 metre high lava fountains shot into the sky and the ash rain even reached the Arab Emirates.
The best MTB spots
Catania (east coast) is the starting point for the trails on Mount Etna and the Monti Iblei and offers a great nightlife. Palermo and Cefalu (north coast), on the other hand, are close to the Monti Peloritani, Monti Nebrodi and Monti Madonie. Lonely mountain roads and rocky to loamy trails around magnificent nature parks await you here. Marettimo (Egadi Island): the insider tip off Sicily's west coast. The treasure island of trails can be reached by ferry from Trapani (journey time: three hours). The speedboat only takes an hour, but only takes packed bikes.
Maps and literature
Still the most accurate: the hiking maps from the Touring Club Italiano (TCI) at a scale of 1:50000: - Parco dell'Etna, ISBN
88-365-0482-5 - Parco dei Nebrodi, ISBN 88-365-1929-6
Bike guide with 19 tours: "Mountain biking in Sicily", Carmen Fischer and Helmut Walter, Delius Klasing Verlag,
Price: 19.60 euros. Roadbook updates: www.sizilien-rad.de
Guided tours
The freeride specialists and founders of the Etna MTB Gravity Resort: www.triride.com. The German-speaking
guides know and maintain the most secret trails and organise all-round carefree packages including (airport) shuttle, lift tickets, (GPS) tours, accommodation and rental bikes.
Other providers:
www.adventures.it
www.bike-alpin.de
www.bikezone-tours.de
www.hotel-kalura.com (Bike hotel and hire station in Cefalu).
General information
Accommodation, car hire, campsites, ferry connections and links to cheap flights:
www.sizilien-etna.de and www.italien-inseln.de.
Tour 1 Etna: Salto del Cane
Fantastic flow trail with gentle terrain, not steep - ideal for beginners. Lots of berms, some small jumps (including chicken ways). The best way to get to the start is by shuttle. We must have ridden this trail five times in a row. The start is difficult to find, guide or GPS tracks at Tri-ride.
Tour 2 Etna: Gully descent
By car to the Rifugio Sapienza (end of the Etna asphalt road at an altitude of 2000 metres) and then by cable car to 2500 metres. The front wheel has to be removed so that the bike fits into the small cable car. At the top, a wide but very steep gravel road leads up to 2700 metres. The craters of Mount Etna roar 1000 metres further up. The descent is via a gully, with no trail and no tracks - so a guide is a must! A unique experience (once you've got the riding technique down) in a fantastic lunar landscape.
Tour 3 Marettimo: Semaforo
The only tour on the small island where you can also pedal uphill a little: It goes steeply through a beautiful forest, which kindly provides shade. Once you reach the south side of the island, however, you are fully exposed to the sun and this is where the pushing section begins. But with a magnificent view of the sea. The descent heads down to the west, directly towards the village on the island. And it's pure flow: first over rocky, but not difficult sections, then over very gentle forest ground down to the beach.
Tour 4 Marettimo: Falcone
Up the highest mountain on the island, Pizzo Falcone (686 metres). You have to push all the way uphill. But the panoramic views over the surrounding islands are top notch and the descent is first class, with flowing sections, blocked passages and hairpin bends. Arrive directly at the beach. Information on all tours: www.triride.com
You can find everything you need to know about the best mountain bike spots in Sicily in the PDF download below.