Italians in general have less hair loss to contend with as they get older. At least he is more skilful at covering up his receding hairline. Norberto, for example, simply lets the grey hair on his head and face be. Only occasionally does he smooth the mane on his head with his hand and brush the moustache out of the corners of his mouth. Now, for example, because he's pouring us a glass of wine at the bar. We're supposed to drive "La Romantica" tomorrow, he says, and his little eyes start to sparkle. What a melodious name for a trail. At least in the ears of those who find 80 consecutive hairpin bends romantic. "They're all rideable!" Norberto waves us off and pours us another drink.
The story about the trail doesn't seem to be over yet. A big storm a few years ago knocked down many trees and ruined the whole trail. If they had waited for the government clean-up crew, the season would have been over, says Norberto. "They're weak men, you know. So I send my men from the bike club with axes and saws and: Trail will soon be as good as new," Norberto adds with a smile.
Norberto runs a sports hotel here in Santa Caterina (1,740 metres) in Valtellina, near Bormio. Alpine crossers and trail lovers like to stop off at his hotel because he knows their needs, organises shuttles and gives trail tips at the bar in the evening.
You can read all about the La Romantica route in the Stelvio National Park in the PDF download below.
