Walther Schaumann's descriptions of the fierce battles of the "Grande Guerra" in the Dolomites make a real film run in my head. Schaumann himself was stationed as an Kaiserjäger officer in the combat zone around Mt Piano. Almost a century later, the tunnel mouths and cavern entrances, some of which have collapsed, stare back at us like dark eyes.
Thanks to Schaumann's initiative and an armada of volunteers, the dilapidated trenches and the remaining remnants of the former positions, which were connected by a network of front paths, were made accessible again. The result is an open-air museum that is both a testimony and a memorial. Even though the historical circular route can no longer be travelled by bike for reasons of piety, an exploratory tour on foot conveys the terrible times of war just as impressively.
We set off from Dobbiaco to explore the area around Lake Misurina in four days. It forms the link between the Sesto Dolomites and the valley basin around Cortina d'Ampezzo. Here, in the eastern part of the Dolomites, bare rock dominates and only a few connections are suitable for biking. Rocky outcrops and extensive gravel fields present certain technical challenges. Due to the lack of extensive alpine pastures, the ascent is rarely gentle, but the descent is almost always all the steeper. With advanced riding technique, however, the old military roads are easy to ride.
Tour dates
The four-day tour measures a total of 145 km and around 5600 metres in altitude.
Day 1: Neutoblach - Dürrensteinhütte (33 km/1300 vertical metres)
Day 2: Dürrensteinhütte - Lago d'Antorno (36 km/1500 metres altitude)
Day 3: Lago d'Antorno - Büllejochhütte (27 km/1600 metres altitude)
Day 4: Büllejochhütte - Neutoblach (50 km/1300 metres altitude)