It must have been my first summer in Umbria when I discovered this trail. I spent a lot of time here a few years ago because I simply love Italian life, la dolce vita and the region. In the village façade of Citta della Pieve, for example, the Middle Ages are still alive today. Nothing has changed for 500 years. Cellars that were dug deep underground like caves by the Etruscans 2500 years ago and used as tombs for sarcophagi - wine is still stored here today. That kind of thing fascinates me. But also the landscape above:
Hills as far as the eye can see, full of olive groves, vineyards and forests - perfect for biking, I thought at the time. But there wasn't even a bike scene in this part of Italy yet. There weren't even any proper maps to help you. That's why I had to explore the area the hard way, which often led me into dead ends, thickets or even into the open mouth of a farm dog. But one summer evening, I remember very clearly, I had a real breakthrough: in a lonely, wide wooded area criss-crossed by ravines, I suddenly found myself in front of a trail entrance.
You can find out all about the Big Smile Trail on Lake Trasimeno in Umbria in the PDF download below.
