You either love it or you hate it. Hardly any other super trail in the Alps is as controversial as the legendary 136-bend trail on Lago d'Idro: "If you want to have fun on this trail, you have to be able to shift your rear wheel," say some. "That's rubbish, once you've done the first six hairpin bends, you just roll through the last 130!" claim others.
That's all I know about this legendary trail, as I cycle up the gravel road to Monte Stino with Sabine and Markus. Oh yes, and that I should be economical with my battery because it has to last for almost 1600 metres in altitude. So eco mode. But after 750 metres in altitude, the route suddenly continues uphill on a trail in the forest. Without the motor, you would definitely have to push over the roots, stones and steps, in Eco mode you could certainly pedal uphill with some difficulty, but in Sport mode: it's one big uphill rush! Every now and then, Lake Idro flashes into view between the trees. This fun lasts about three kilometres, then the last ascent to the Rifugio Monte Stino is taken over by a gravel and then an asphalt track. I'm not really hungry - the excitement of the upcoming downhill trail is too great - but Sabine insists on stopping for a bite to eat. And she's right, the view alone is sensational. As the mountains here have such steep sides, from up here, at 1466 metres above sea level, you practically have a bird's eye view of Lake Idro.
The GPS data for the 136-bend trail on Monte Stino can be downloaded free of charge below the article. The link for the Delius Klasing online shop. There you have to register once, then you can add the GPS data (free of charge) to your shopping basket and receive it for download or as an e-mail.
After stopping for refreshments, we climb a few more steps to old trenches and emplacements from the First World War and continue to the summit of Monte Stinos. This is where the entrance to the 136-Kehren Trail awaits - in the form of a stone staircase. This wouldn't be a problem, but the railing makes it narrower, and its last step merges with a very exposed trail at the bottom, which immediately turns into the first hairpin bend. With my normal bike I would at least attempt this trial, but with the heavy E-MTB I'd rather not. In the immediately following left-hand bend, I would have to turn the rear wheel, but the rock face behind me leaves no room for it. Bend three is also damn tight in the steep terrain, but I force myself to push through it. At hairpin five, I think: Man, if this goes on like this, I'd better turn round. But then it works. The terrain becomes a little flatter, the hairpin bends rounder and the trail itself turns out to be a well-maintained gravel track. Easy to roll. So you can devote yourself entirely to cornering. Some bends can be taken on the front wheel, some on the rear wheel. Or very slowly with a good sense of balance. You can also practise shifting the rear wheel perfectly here. All this with a view of the lake, which is barely noticeably closer. We only come across its gravel beach again in Vesta, after a whopping 1100 metres.
Markus: "Okay, I've got 130! You?" "134. Sabine?" "Hm ... seven ..." But then we all push for the next three kilometres towards Baitoni. The Sentiero Contrabbandieri climbs extremely exposed above the lakeshore through the forest. At the two or three places secured by steel cables, every step really needs to be considered. A rough end for such a super trail, but even Sabine grins at the end: "The fun was worth it."
