18 months, 13 centimetres and one letter lie between Ari and Ali. Ari is the older one, Ali is the taller one. Ari has hair down to her bum, Ali wears her hair in a short fuzzy style. The Hutmacher sisters are as different as they are inseparable. They grew up together, share a flat and work side by side in the place where they have spent almost their entire lives: Massa Vecchia.
Arianna and Alice's hotel is located in the Tuscan Maremma, almost 50 kilometres southwest of Siena, at the foot of the small town of Massa Marittima. Firstly, Marittima is not located by the sea (as the name suggests), but rather on an imposing hill a few kilometres inland. And secondly, Massa Vecchia is not a hotel, but a small country estate on which rustic stone houses nestle cosily between a pump track, cypress trees and a vineyard.
This place was created by the Swiss Ernesto Hutmacher. He discovered the property 30 years ago and turned it into a gourmet-class cycling holiday resort with a lot of sweat, passion and a great vision. Arianna and Alice grew up here. With two languages, lots of bikes and such illustrious people as Thomas Frischknecht - Olympic medallist, world champion, biking legend - who supported his compatriot Ernesto in setting up Massa Vecchia. And today? Richie Schley likes to be here, Timo Pritzel has just held a Bike & Yoga week, and the international management team from Sram is currently sitting at the next table.
The words Ari says shortly after arriving are all the more reassuring. Her dark brown eyes wide open, she whispers urgently: "But I'm not a bike pro!" I'm a little taken aback and don't know whether to laugh or not, but Arianna is serious. "I love biking, but I'm not a pro and I'm not a model either," she says, patting her thigh demonstratively. "And Ali," she says, looking at her sister, "is a bit hesitant when it comes to biking. She's more of an endurance type. She has a lot of respect for the tough trails." It's another one of those women's things: to start off by toning things down and emphasising that you don't have any special skills. But Ari and Ali's manner is incredibly pleasant, takes all the pressure off and heralds the most relaxed and fun bike holiday you could wish for.
The next morning, we set off together. It doesn't take long for us to get lost in the Tuscan wilderness. My orientation is already lost after two junctions. That's down to my lack of navigation skills and our frenzy of chatting. But the dense, fragrant pine forest has no well-signposted network of paths to guide us. There are no hikers here, but apparently only two species: wild boar and bikers. And both leave their tracks. The pigs rummage and dig for food, the bikers shape trails to their liking. And we are on our way to one of these legendary trails shaped by the hands of bikers - the Canyon.
The route climbs along secluded forest paths, without steep ramps and long ascents. This suits 27-year-old Ari. She is not a fan of climbing. She also loves - and I literally get to experience this over the next few days - shuttling in the jeep. The window is cracked open, the music turned up and the deepest holes in the gravel tracks are taken with relish. But she covers the way to the entrance of the canyon with a broad smile. The two of them are obviously looking forward to showing me their canyon.
And then we're at the canyon entrance. The first few metres of trail look promising: soft ground, gentle bends. I trust the sisters completely, my head is clear and my expectations are high. Ari sets off and I try to stay on her rear wheel. And there it is: the shaped biker's dream. Its curves sway us playfully to the left and right until the slalom through the gorge turns into a manoeuvrable forest passage. My legs are pedalling eagerly, my fingers are nowhere near the brakes until we are spat out onto a gravel track. I look at Ari and Ali. They know what's coming. "Again?" I ask.
We've done a few canyon laps by the time we pedal back towards Massa Vecchia at midday. I'm pretty exhausted and have no objection to an extended break. After lunch, Ari works in the kitchen, Ali sits in front of the computer at reception - and I sit on the terrace in front of the winery.
I remember Ernesto's attempt the previous evening to explain the distribution of roles in his facility: "Everyone actually does everything here," he says. "Everyone contributes with their strengths, and so everyone is a piece of the Massa Vecchia puzzle." He nods over to his younger daughter, who is scurrying through the tables: "Look at Ali. Massa Vecchia wouldn't be possible without her. We call her Fräulein Rottenmeier after the strict housekeeper in Heidi." Excuse me? You have an extremely pretty daughter here, whose face is one explosion of laughter after another. "Yes, of course, but she's the one with the organisational talent and structure." Ernesto is visibly proud of his ladies. And that makes the big step much easier for him: After 30 years, he is handing over his life's work to his two daughters. The generational change at Massa Vecchia is in full swing.
I later ask Ari whether Ernesto might have wanted a son. We are sitting on Il Sasso, a rock at the summit of nearby Monte Arsentis. The view is stunning. To the left, Massa Marittima nestles in the wooded hills, and to the right, the sea rests. Ari shrugs his shoulders: "We've never talked about it, but honestly, I think he's quite happy with us." Yes, he certainly is. The gender issue is generally pleasantly unprecedented in Massa Vecchia. For example, Ari is the president of the Trail Brothers, a team of bikers who voluntarily build and maintain 500 kilometres of trails around Massa Marittima. The Brothers are headed by a woman. Why Brothers? "Oh, um, we had a few drinks and listened to the Blues Brothers. And Brothers is such a beautiful, universal word ..." Next gender question settled. How nice it is when no one says anything, when no thoughts need to be wasted - when you can just ride your bike.
And that's what we're doing again: Ari points from the rock into the forest. There is the new, crisp enduro route, there is the gentler freeride variant. A total of four routes criss-cross through the forest. We weave our way through the winding forest sections and let the dust settle on the open slopes. At the bottom, we roll out over a small pump track, clap our hands, thank the Lord and the shapers - and agree that a glass of wine is now due to round things off.
The gourmet life in Tuscany is set to continue. As a resident of the Alps, you can hardly believe the abundance of the finest trail material around Massa Marittima. There are no discussions, no confrontations with the authorities or other trail users. The mayor is happy and supportive. His sweet medieval town is itself characterised by small alleyways - so the network of narrow trails around it fits in perfectly. Ernesto is currently planning separate uphill trails for e-mountain bikes. Of course, it's a question of space - but at home, confinement often seems to be the biggest obstacle in people's minds.
What a pleasure when you don't have to worry and can play on the trails carefree - and the trails want to play with you. No nasty rocks, no rough shaking, no mighty roots. We are travelling close to the sea. Jeep queen Ari has chauffeured us towards the water, we've been bawling loudly to Italo pop and are now hooting and hollering through the woods near the coast. I have tunnel vision and can only see the trail. "What was that?" I ask incredulously at the end. Ali smiles and just says: "Wait for that bend up ahead." We roll round the corner - and I'm almost thrown back again, dazzled by the blue of the sea and the perfect white of the empty sandy beach. Elba lies calmly in the water, with two small boats bobbing in front of it. Where have I landed? Ari laughs. "With us. In paradise, then." I wonder whether I should perhaps drop my anchor.
INFO
Location Massa Marittima is a medieval town with 9000 inhabitants and is located in the province of Grosseto. Florence is around 85 km to the north, Siena is 45 km to the north-east and the sea is just 20 km away.
Arrival By plane to Pisa or Rome and onwards by hire car. Or by car via the Brenner Pass to Florence and on towards Rome/Grosseto. Distance from Munich approx. 850 km.
Accommodation At Massa Vecchia, you can stay in various rooms and flats (from around 70 euros). There are bike weeks with a full programme for every level and Scott bike hire. Info: www.massavecchia.it
MORE FLOW AREAS
Who wants to deal with blocked trails on holiday? Real flow experiences await in these areas.
1st Switzerland: Engadin
Trails have been cleared for bikers throughout the Upper Engadine: flow trails against a glacier backdrop! And that's why the girls from girlesridetoo.de are offering a women's camp in Pontresina. Date: 7-10 July, price: 489 euros, info: www.girlesridetoo.de
2nd Bike Republic Sölden
A huge flow trail park is currently being built in Ötztal. Some of the trails are already a cult favourite and a must-do. Women's camp specialist Karen Eller shows you the best lines in her camps. Info and registration: www.dierasenmaeher.de
3rd Switzerland: Flims
Flims/Laax in the Grisons is a mecca for snowboarders in winter and a huge trail park in summer. The twins Anita and Carolin Gehrig will take you on kilometres of flow trails. Information about the camps: www.flims.com
4th Italy: Livigno
Here, too, flow trails have been cleared with a wire brush. In the park, but also in the wild, you can cruise for many kilometres through the high mountains. And afterwards, of course, you can shop duty-free. Info: www.mtblivigno.eu
5th Italy: Kaltern
Gentle forest trails around the Montiggl lakes and long, somewhat gnarlier trail descents from the Mendelkamm. The Jentschura BIKE Women Camp also includes yoga and SUP. Info: www.bike-women.de
6th Canada: Chilcotins
Okay, Adventureland is an eleven-hour flight away, but this day-long flow trail nature experience will last a lifetime. The organiser is also offering two women-only camps for the first time this summer. Info: www.tyaxadventures.com
