This story actually begins in 2013 - we are sitting on the beach in Punta Ala. The sand is warm, the beer in our hands is ice cold. Behind us, the Tuscan hills undulate with their hidden trails, and in front of us lies the feeling of a new era. The very first race of the Enduro World Series has just finished here, and we are as exhausted as we are euphoric. We watch as the sun sinks slowly and fiery red into the Mediterranean, bathing everything in a warm light. A moment for eternity. We realise that we will be back. Even if "e-mountainbike" is still a completely unknown term for us at this point.
The return: on the trail in Tuscany with the E-MTB
Almost a decade passes before we actually fulfil our promise to return. We are now familiar with Eco, Trail and Boost modes and appreciate the benefits of active electric mobility. Just like all the other Tuscany insider tips that have supposedly emerged since our first visit to Punta Ala. Our journey first takes us into the dense forests north of Piombino. We then visit the mountain bike hotspot of Punta Ala before travelling on to Orbetello and Monte Argentario. Finally, we make a detour to the small island of Il Giglio.
First stop in Tuscany: Piombino - the home of trail architect Matteo
Trail builder Matteo has dug a real spaghetti knot into the forest on his local mountain, Poggio Grosso. These are all flow trails at their best, and it is already getting dark before we finally find our way out of the forest and head straight for the fish restaurant in the small fortress-like old town of Populonia. The spaghetti here is just as excellent as the trails. A pasta party is a real treat here and not just a means to an end. On the second day, Matteo takes us to the Country Communication Centre in the bay of Baratti at the start of our ride. Here, Dutchwoman Frida lives together with like-minded people from all over the world in self-built mud huts. Like the Etruscans around 900 BC, they are self-sufficient. Fabrics are woven from flax and hemp and Etruscan wine is made from their own grapes. Guests are also allowed to savour the fruity liqueur and spend the night in the tree house at a dizzying height, as long as they book in advance and don't just barge in with the euphoric Matteo, as we did. Our tour continues to Piombino. From the outside, it's an uninviting industrial town, of which most people probably only know the ferry harbour to Elba. But Matteo leads us through the surprisingly pretty alleyways of the old town centre.
"The city's heyday is behind it. The last steelworks, which fed and characterised the entire region in the middle of the 20th century, have now closed. Now tourism is becoming increasingly important. And with it, acceptance for us bikers," explains Matteo proudly.
As a qualified architect, he now puts all his creativity and passion into the art of trail building. He has already made a name for himself in the bay of Baratti, probably the most beautiful beach in Italy, and he can make a good living from it.
Tour 1: E-bike trail highlights between Populonia and Piombino
- Distance: 44.6 kilometres
- Uphill: 1012 metres in altitude
- Journey time: 4.5 hours
- Riding technique: 50 % easy, 40 % medium, 10 % difficult
E-MTB tour description Populonia/Piombino:
The tour starts in Populonia, Poggio all'Agnello, on the doorstep of Tuscany Bike. We head south along the coast on minor roads to the hilly area between Populonia and Piombino. Here, cork oaks cling to the sandy soil and the surrounding scrub is dense and evergreen. This is another reason why technical challenges in the form of quite rocky sections and steep climbs sometimes come faster than you can change gear. After two very fun trail descents from Monte Grosso and Monte Massoncello, the route leads down to a small bay, then along the sea to the historic centre of Piombino. An oasis after crossing the industrial suburb and perfect for an extended lunch break. Then it's back to Matteo's trail mountains on a trail and forest path climb, as the third descent over Monte Pecorino is still to come. Thanks to countless turn-offs and trail sections, the tour with sea views can be extended to any length depending on your fitness and battery status. You can also take a shortcut to the beach bar in Baratti and admire the sunset there or head for the small town of Populonia perched on a hill. Incidentally, this was the only Etruscan town directly by the sea and it is worth taking a look at the narrow, winding alleyways.
Second stop in Tuscany: Enduro MTB Mecca Punta Ala
The beach in Punta Ala is almost as beautiful, especially in the bay of Cala Violina. This sandy beach is well hidden and can only be reached on foot or by bike - and bikers have long been popular guests here. Shuttle buses were already in operation here long before the first EWS in 2013. Today, of course, we pedal up the bumpy forest roads ourselves on our e-MTBs. In the process, we realise that there are still many worthwhile connections hidden in the hills in the hinterland, which can of course be tried out thanks to motor support. "Most of the trails were used for charcoal burning centuries ago," explains Davide, known as "Bibo", who has been maintaining the trails here for years. "You can still recognise that today by the black soil here in the middle of the forest." Unfortunately, it has rained heavily in the last few days, which quickly wears down the sandy soil. Some of the trails are so washed out that we have to concentrate fully on the lines. And then there's the campsite right on the beautiful beach! We could stay here forever.
Tour 2: E-MTB enduro tour from Punta Ala
- Distance: 54.9 kilometres
- Uphill: 1409 metres in altitude
- Journey time: 5 - 6 hours
- Riding technique: 65 % easy, 25 % medium, 10 % difficult
Tour description E-MTB trail tour Punta Ala:
From the Punta Ala campsite, narrow tarmac paths and gravel roads lead gently up and down, but also sometimes furiously uphill, into the trail area of the coastal mountains. These climbs are no ice cream treat, especially in hot temperatures. It's worth stopping for a refreshing coffee in Caldana before tackling the final metres up to Monte Calvo. Once you reach the area around Gavorrano, the tour unfolds its full adventurous character: you cross the chain of hills on wild, stony and sometimes overgrown paths. You ride along technical trails in undulating terrain. You should always ride with foresight and always be ready to get out of the saddle to master small, technical climbs. Of course, the e-bike makes things a lot easier. Back in the classic trail area of Punta Ala, a beautifully constructed enduro trail follows, which now leads exclusively downhill to the small mountain village of Scarlino. It goes through hairpin bends, rocky passages and particularly flowy berms to gain momentum. A short tarmac section is followed by a super-steep uphill trail to Piano Masotto, which would be impossible without an e-bike. From the monastery, another built trail along a stream bed awaits, but it is full of technical challenges. After the main road (you can also end the tour here), there is a loop through the trail area close to the beach with a descent to the sea at the beautiful Cala Violina. Caution: Don't stay on the beach too long after sunset, as you still have to pedal for 15 minutes on gravel paths to the campsite.
In the evening, Bibo raves about the island of Giglio in south-west Tuscany over a glass of red wine. Its trails are something very special. Our thirst for adventure is immediately awakened, so we pack up the camper van and soon head south. Shortly after Talamone, where James Bond spent a few sunny days in "Quantum of Solace", we reach the Monte Argentario peninsula. A number of rewarding trails branch off from the road, which climbs gently up to the 635 metre-high summit of Monte Telegrafo. The rocky path that leads to the south of the peninsula is particularly impressive with its spectacular views.
E-MTB Tour 3: Orbetello - Monte Argentario
- Distance: 48.7 kilometres
- Uphill: 1596 metres in altitude
- Journey time: 5 - 6 hours
- Riding technique: 75 % easy, 15 % medium, 20 % difficult
Tour description E-MTB Tour 3: Orbetello - Monte Argentario
From the lagoon in Orbetello, the tour leads past a picturesque windmill, the landmark of the coastal town, and over the bridge to the Monte Argentario peninsula. Here, a moderate asphalt ascent takes you to the highest point, the 635 metre high Il Telegrafo (Poggio Tondo). You don't have much of a view here, as the road winds through a forest that becomes increasingly dense the higher you get. If you're unlucky, even the summit is still covered in clouds, as the peninsula has its own climate. But if the sky is clear, you can enjoy a fantastic panoramic view from up here. Many of the bike trails that now open up are constructed descents. Most of them are flowy and very varied. The first trail branches off sharply from the road before the summit and has jumps and berms right at the start that you should hit well. The second and third descents are much more flowy, with sections nicely integrated into the slope, but also some jumps. In contrast, the last descent is a natural hiking trail that winds spectacularly southwards along a ridge. As it is less travelled, it can be overgrown, rocky or even trampled by wild boar. In return, it offers a spectacular panorama in the lower section and the opportunity to take a detour directly to one of the secluded beaches in the south before returning along the sea to the starting point in Orbetello.
Fourth stop in Tuscany: the small island of Il Giglio
The next day, we head to the island of Giglio. We catch the first ferry and moor our bikes in the hull of the ship right next to the vegetable lorry that brings fresh food to the small island. The ferry sways and the Mediterranean breeze swirls through our hair. There is always something absolutely magical about water. And even though the ferry journey is relatively short, it still feels like a little extra adventure for us mainland bikers. As soon as the ship has left the harbour of Porto Santo Stefano, we glide along the coast of the Monte Argentario peninsula. Past small, beautiful bays that you probably can't even see from the island road above. After an hour at sea, the monotonous pounding of the ship's engine stops abruptly. Then the floor on deck vibrates, the engine starts again and we drift sideways. The precision with which the captain manoeuvres the ship past the red and green lighthouse into the narrow harbour entrance of Giglio is impressive. The colourful facades of the houses gleam in the morning sun as we roll through the alleyways of Giglio Porto. Just like Francesco's face, who is already waiting for us in front of his small Ecobike shop. It's a fun household goods shop where, according to the sign in the window, you can also hire e-bikes and children's trailers. We have asked Francesco for tour tips, but we learn his crazy life story. He used to work as a sailor and when the Costa Concordia ran aground here off Giglio in 2013, he was called in to help with the salvage work. "I met my wife on this beautiful island, and we now live here with our daughter and run this shop."
"There aren't many bikers travelling to Giglio yet, but there are more and more every year." Francesco, Managing Director of Eco Bike
All trails are open to bikers and you can ride anywhere. Francesco's words still resonate as we balance over the island's trails a few hours later. They are mainly rocky trails. Sometimes there are large, round but surprisingly grippy stones in the way. Nevertheless, not every trail is really suitable for riding. But overall, the tour, which takes us in a star shape to all corners of this small island, is an impressive experience. The labyrinthine, ancient town centre of Giglio Castello in particular has a very special charm.
E-MTB Tour 4: The trails of the island of Il Giglio
- Distance: 34.2 kilometres
- Uphill: 1228 metres in altitude
- Journey time: 3 - 4 hours
- Riding technique: 65 % easy, 10 % medium, 25 % difficult
Tour description of the Trails on the island of Il Giglio:
The day starts early: parking in Porto Santo Stefano, an hour's ferry ride with an exciting arrival in the narrow harbour of Giglio, an obligatory caffè in the bar. Off we go up the main road on moderate climbs to the old town of Giglio Castello. It's fascinating to see how the friendly inhabitants still live in the winding alleyways. The last part of the ascent to the summit follows over steep ramps: chapeau to those who manage it all in the saddle! Once you reach the summit of Poggio della Chiusa, a spectacular view over the harbour, the mainland and the Monte Argentario peninsula awaits. The first descent to the southern tip of Faro di Capel Rosso seems surprisingly long. The trails are very varied, rocky at the top and blocked on huge boulders - descending here is no disgrace. The terrain is very challenging, but the rock is grippy. The last few metres of trail to the lighthouse have to be pushed back up the same way, so they can also be skipped. This is followed by a nice climb back towards Giglio Castello. Back in the forest, the route continues along an old rocky path (watch out for mossy, slippery stones!). Once you reach the coastal town of Giglio Campese, you can treat yourself to a coffee before heading back, as the little extra round trip to the northern tip of Faro di Punta del Fenaio, which is still to be done, is well worth it. However, this little detour is very technical. However, if you are in poor physical condition, you can skip the detour to the northern tip. Especially as the last descent back to the harbour is also very technical, blocked and steep. If you prefer a much more relaxed route, simply follow the main road back to the harbour in Giglio Porto.
We enjoy the sunset again from the stern of the ferry. We have a can of beer with us for a toast and a pizza from the box on our laps. It will probably be dark by the time we reach the harbour in Porto Santo Stefano. But no matter. That warm, satisfied feeling after a great experience spreads through me again. And the certainty that we will be back.
You can find even more of these MTB tours in the Book Tuscany Trails - Mountain biking & dolce vita in the heart of Italy
