A loose part of the tin roof of the Albergo Rendentore rattles in the wind. A monster is parked in a hedge of thorns - at second glance, it is an overgrown, rusty snow groomer. A dusty monoski still dangles in the window of a barricaded sports shop. Its heyday was around the 1970s, when Monesi di Triora was still known as the "Little Switzerland of Liguria". After just an hour's drive from the Mediterranean coast, we find ourselves not only in the furthest reaches of the hinterland, but also in a completely forgotten era. This Monesi was concreted into the mountain flanks of Monte Saccarello out of nowhere in the 1960s. A tourist resort at an altitude of 1380 metres with four ski lifts, holiday homes and a few prefabricated hotel buildings. But the winters were too short, the snowfall too unpredictable - by the end of the 1980s, the paintwork was already gone. When a landslide tore away the access road in 2016 and washed some of the holiday homes into the River Tanaro, the lift operations were finally shut down completely. Was that the final blow?
As I cycle melancholically through the past of Ligurian ski tourism, I am surprised by a modern poster with the inscription: "E-bike test centre". In the middle of this weathered hotel complex, I discover a balcony that is almost defiantly decorated with fresh flower boxes. Even behind the sign "Albergo La Vecchia Partenza" there still seems to be life. The former lift valley station is now a restaurant! I ask myself: who has the optimism to start from scratch here?
On Liguria's highest peak
The answer greets me in the doorway with shining eyes: Simone used to be an Italian surfing champion. Together with her partner Maurizio, a former triathlete, she has settled down here. They are convinced that Monesi can be revitalised with a bike station, good coffee and good food. I certainly wish them luck, but I have to keep going because my destination for today is the La Terza hut.
On Liguria's highest peak - the ascent can be cranked away quickly on an e-MTB. Initially tarmac and then it's a brisk ride on gravel. This leaves plenty of time to look and think. Opposite Monesi, I discover the mountain village of Piaggia. Its stone houses are at least 100 years old, but have aged much better. Different construction methods and well maintained, I assume. Passing the skeletons of the old lift supports, I can't help thinking that this is not just a journey back in time to Liguria's past, but perhaps also a glimpse into the future of other Alpine ski resorts?
The 2201 metre high Saccarello is the highest mountain in Liguria and has something magical about it. From its summit, you have a full view of the Ligurian Sea to the south. However, the rain that falls on the northern flanks of the mountain prefers to take a diversion to the Adriatic 500 kilometres away. And there is something else that makes this mountain so special: its Italian summit is already waiting at 2164 metres with a 10-metre-high statue of Christ. As a biker, you feel very small here, so it is definitely worth making a detour to the 2201 metre high summit obelisk on the French side. In good weather, the view from up here stretches as far as Corsica and northwards to Monviso.
The first thing that catches your eye when you arrive at Rifugio La Terza is the prominent e-bike charging station right in front of the building. Under two solar panels, everything is ready to quench the thirst for power of drained batteries. An additional "Bikers welcome" sign is definitely not necessary here. The next thing you notice is the T-shaped architecture of this hut and realise that it is clearly the former mountain station of a ski lift. Where skiers used to glide into the mountain station, a huge panoramic window has now been installed. You can immediately see out of it when you enter the large dining room with its open-plan kitchen.
The idea came from the Porro family, who run a pasta factory at Colle di Nava (also a great biking area!). They bought the old lift building, renovated it and reopened it in 2020. Although "renovated" is an understatement. The dining room is more reminiscent of a posh restaurant than a simple mountain hut. Offering products from his own factory in the highest restaurant in Liguria is the motto of owner Stefano Porro. To achieve this, he is in the pasta factory early every morning and in the kitchen at La Terza from lunchtime. He is also a craftsman and delivery driver, and in his spare time - when he has any - he is a mountaineer. The family has set up flats on the upper floor of the hut for the winter. On powder days - and there are plenty of them in Liguria - Stefano's nephew, Amadeo Porro, takes up residence here.
I set off the next morning in the direction of Monte Frontè. Down in the valley, a cloud kitchen is already bubbling, slowly rising like in the high mountains. The tour is part of the Alta Via Monti Ligure. A long-distance hiking trail that crosses the mountains of Liguria between Ventimiglia and La Spezia in different variations. After the Passo Frontè, the path narrows to a path and climbs impossibly steeply up to the summit of the 2141 metre high Cima Garlenda.
Even with an e-MTB, it's a real slog. But of course there's a reason why I'm doing this: a spectacular ridge path starts at the top and heads north. Sure, the view from up there is of course tremendous, but above all there is a microclimate here that often leads to an inversion and causes a sea of clouds to swirl around the mountain flank. The path itself requires a keen eye, as marmots have dug their tunnel entrances into the path. This throws you off your stride a little. But as soon as the path branches off into the forest, you can take it easy again: The loamy soil offers plenty of grip and the hairpin bends widen out into curves again. At Margheria Garlenda, the flow is briefly slowed down because cows' feet have immortalised themselves so deeply in the pasture and path track that it is easy to overlook the right-hand fork below the mountain pasture. And that would be a real shame, because this is where the best section of the trail begins - a rollercoaster! Perfectly run in by donkeys and humans over the centuries. A wild ride that finally joins the road in San Bernardo di Mendatica. Over a new bridge with fresh tarmac, you buzz almost silently back to Monesi. The landslide below is still crumbling.
The tour: from Monesi to the La Terza hut
- Length: 22.9 kilometres
- Uphill 1032 metres altitude
- Difficulty: medium to difficult
Tour description
From Monesi to Monte Saccarello: The tour to Liguria's highest mountain starts at the Albergo Vecchia Partenza and leads comfortably first on tarmac and then on a well-maintained gravel road to the summit of Monte Saccarello. The mountain road to Rif. La Terza offers great views.
The next morning, the path starts wide and gets narrower and narrower, but remains easy to cycle up to Passo Frontè. A few stretches of pushing await at Cima Garlenda (2141 m). The descent is initially quite alpine and contains some rocky sections (max. S2-3). As soon as the trail branches off into the forest, it mutates into a fairly easy, flowing S1/S2 path. The return journey to Monesi then leads along the little-used tarmac road (5 km).
Info about the MTB hut tour La Terza
Albergo La Vecchia Partenza in Monesi di Triora
A new start for Monesi in the old lift building. Loving restaurant with people full of stories and visions. Simone and Maurizio opened their favourite project in 2016 and were cut off from the outside world for four years shortly afterwards. With a lot of perseverance, the two triathletes have set up a small bike station and maybe one day there will be lift operation and a bike park again...? There is already an e-bike test centre with bikes from Focus and Santa Cruz, as well as 7 rooms for overnight guests. Open all year round at weekends and throughout the summer. Via Provincale 25, 18025 Monesi di Triora, lavecchiapartenza@gmail.com
Rifugio La Terza
The highest restaurant in Liguria with homemade pasta in the panoramic restaurant. A mountain hut with sea views in two directions. Chamois in front of the house at sunrise. A playground by mountain enthusiasts for mountain enthusiasts. E-bike charging station and hut staff with trail knowledge. Open from the end of June to October. Up to 40 overnight stays in multi-bed rooms or comfortable flats. In summer, you can also meet the German expatriate Katharina Fritzenwallner at La Terza, who as an e-bike guide also knows all the lesser-known trails in the area. Località valletta, 18025 Monesi di Triora, info@rifugiolaterza.it, rifugiolaterza.it
Extra loop
If the uphill is too fast and you fancy more trail, you can turn right to the Tanarello Pass after around 600 metres in altitude and from there ride along a section of the "Via di Sale" ridge trail. The old trade route can be travelled in both directions on an e-bike. Descend via the Cima Missun (2350 m) and the Colle Rossa on a red slate trail (baby rampage) to the mountain road. Then simply use the mountain road as a flat transfer back to the original uphill.
Or cooler: simply turn round at the highest point and ride back along the same trail! The lap can theoretically be extended much further, but if you still want to get to Monte Saccarello, you shouldn't lose sight of the battery management. With 750 Wh you have to ride economically, with a range extender and approx. 1000 Wh you don't need to worry so much.
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