The Cortina d'Ampezzo district belongs to the province of Belluno in Veneto and has 5627 inhabitants. Cortina has been known as a fashionable winter sports resort since the 1956 Winter Olympics. Scenes in the films James Bond (In Deadly Mission) and Sylvester Stallone (Cliffhanger) helped Cortina to achieve its current image. For bikers, Cortina is above all a hub for various highlight tours in the Dolomites: Fanes Nature Park, Averau, Tofana, Cinque Torri and Forcella Ambrizzola are just a few pedal strokes away from here. Cortina Ski World has also extended its radius with a few lifts that also transport bikers in summer. This also makes it easier to reach the new bike park trails. If you would like to experience this scenic Dolomite spectacle on Cortina's new infrastructure for bikers - click here:
Tour 1: Fanes-Tofana circuit
- Length: 45.6 kilometres
- Uphill: 1391 metres in altitude
- Duration: 5 hours
- Difficulty: difficult
Tour description
The Fanes circuit: From St. Vigil and Pederü, the circuit is a South Tyrolean touring classic and an absolute highlight in terms of scenery - but without any major riding challenges. From Cortina d'Ampezzo, however, there are some fun enduro sections, the landscape is even more impressive and there is even a cable car to help you. Nevertheless, there are still 1391 metres of altitude that you have to pedal under your own steam: The new 10-seater gondola in Cortina floats up to the first floor to Col Druscie. Up there, the tour begins at the Lago Po`Drusciè reservoir with a wide, gravelled mountain trail. It starts steeply, but then leads almost flat through the forest slopes and repeatedly offers fantastic views of the Cristallo massif opposite.
However, the path soon drops almost in a fall line into the gorges of the Fanes Sennes Prags Nature Park. Just like the Fanes stream, which cascades down here as the mighty "Gola di Fanes" waterfall. Then it's time to bite: the ascent on the deep gravel up to the Fanes plateau requires energy, which you can replenish with a tasty dumpling tris at the Großfanes Alm on the high plateau. The route continues on wide gravel and later on trails to the Col de Locia viewpoint, where the first enduro challenge awaits: steep, blocked and interspersed with steps, a hiking trail descends around 200 metres towards St. Cassian. If you enjoy trial biking, you can try a few passages here - provided there are no hikers in sight.
The second part of the tour leads mostly on gravel over the Valparola Pass to the Falzarego Pass - past historic emplacements from the First World War. At the top of the pass, you can see the Lagazuoi and the towers of the Tofana group on the left, the Cinque Torri on the right and Cortina d'Ampezzo deep in the valley. The finale brings the second treat for enduro freaks: a 20-kilometre-long trail descent with a 1000-metre drop. Roughly along the pass road, but always at an appropriate distance. Technical and peppered with roots, the trail passes small lakes and crosses a stream bed. This flight through a fairytale forest only ends in the small village of Mortisa, just before Cortina.
Starting point: The tour starts after the cable car ride from Cortina up to Col Drusciè, at the small lake Lago Po`Drusciè.
Highlights: The scenic highlights on this tour don't stop there. The Fanes Nature Park is at the heart of the Dolomites!
Key points: You need good riding technique for the enduro segments. There are lots of hikers on the Col de Locia at the weekend!
Retreat: The food at the Großfanes Alm is excellent!
Tour 2: Strada de la Vena
- Length: 50.2 kilometres
- Uphill: 1066 metres in altitude
- Downhill: 2988 metres in depth
- Duration: 6 hours
- Difficulty: medium
Tour description
The Strada de la Vena actually belongs to the catchment area of Alleghe in the neighbouring valley. However, thanks to the new lift infrastructure, this classic tour can be extended from Cortina into a real super tour.
Part 1 of the tour deals with reaching the Averau hut: a total of four lift transfers cover a good 1100 metres in altitude. The fun "Tofalina" flow trail has only recently been created between the top station of the "Duca d'Aosta" chairlift and the bottom station of the Skyline cable car. The chairlift then takes you up to the Rifugio Scoiattoli, which sits on a plateau just a stone's throw away from the famous Cinque Torri. From here, you actually have to pedal the last 150 metres up to the Averau hut on a gravel ramp. But at an altitude of 2,413 metres, you have made it, look south down into the next valley and descend steeply for 200 metres on the ski slope, climb briefly up a rocky ledge on the right (watch out for the arrow markings!) and then follow a stony trail below the Averau crags. In wide hairpin bends, this path soon reaches an open meadow area before plunging into the forest.
The actual Strada de la Vena finally begins in the village of Larzonai. From here, you cycle on less exciting gravel paths to Colle Santa Lucia, where you join the road to Passo Giau. It is now 800 metres up to the ticket office of the Fedara chairlift, which takes you back up to the Averau hut. Now back on gravel towards Rifugio Scoiattoli, but now round the Cinque Torri to the right and on to Rifugio Cinque Torri. Here, a somewhat rough forest path takes over, leading gently up and down and finally down to Cortina as the finest enduro fun. Caution: The trails in the forest are wild and not always easy to recognise. Shortly before Pocol, you have to take the main road for a short stretch, then the next trail branches off into the forest on the left at a crash barrier. It is best to keep a close eye on the GPS track, otherwise you will quickly get lost.
Starting point: The tour starts at the Col Drusciè cable car in Cortina.
Highlights: The panorama at the Averau pass crossing is gigantic on both sides. Unfortunately, the Strada de la Vena has been widened to a gravel track, but it's still fun.
Key points: The trail down from the Rifugio Cinque Torri is rugged, partly overgrown and then difficult to recognise.
Retreat: The terrace of the Rifugio Averau serves delicious pasta!
Tour 3: Forcella Ambrizzola
- Length: 40.8 kilometres
- Uphill: 1791 metres in altitude
- Duration: 5.5 hours
- Difficulty: difficult
Tour description
The Forcella Ambrizzola is a pass crossing - even an experienced Dolomite touring biker will get wet eyes because of this unbelievably magnificent panorama. However, it only really makes sense as a one-way Transalp crossing. Although it is also recommended as a day trip in tour portals: Up to Forcella, then back to Lago Federa along the same route and back to Cortina via Sentiero 431. However, this route is forbidden for bikers, is usually full of hikers and is also extremely eroded. So: no fun.
We have planned the tour from scratch: crossing the Forcella and heading south towards Alleghe. Here you descend on lonely trails to Selva di Cadore and on the road to Passo Giao as far as the Federa chairlift. This takes you up to the Averau hut and on trails back to Cortina. And this is what this tour feels like:
The 800 metres of gravel uphill to Lago Federa are steep at the start, but flatten out a little towards the end. The Croda da Lago restaurant is located on an idyllic lake, but is very crowded at the weekend thanks to the bus service. The next 200 metres up to Forcella Ambrizzola (2277 m), where the panoramic madness begins, are quieter. And once you have reached the pass, you are completely alone for the next 600 metres of trail through alpine meadows. Later, you continue through picturesque villages until you reach the usually busy pass road towards Passo Giao. The spooky ride ends at the Rifugio Fedare, where you can once again take the old chairlift up to the Averau hut. The descent from up there back to Cortina follows the same route as the downhill from the Strada de la Vena tour: on gravel towards Cinque Torri, but then right past the striking rock towers to the Rifugio Cinque Torri. From here, head into the forest and back to Cortina on technically challenging trails with roots and rocks. Caution: Please stick meticulously to the track. The trail in the forest is difficult to recognise in places.
Starting point: The tour starts in Cortina d'Ampezzo.
Highlights: It doesn't get any more panoramic than this. In order not to spoil this experience with widescreen cinema, you should definitely avoid the weekends and the hikers' hustle and bustle.
Key points: The climb to the Rifugio Croda da Lago is really mean and steep. The most technically difficult part is the wild trail from Pocol down to Cortina.
Retreat: At the Rifugio Croda da Lago you'll be happy to get a refill of energy, otherwise at the Rifugio Averau when you've covered the metres in altitude.
GPS data for MTB tours around Cortina d'Ampezzo
Info Cortina d'Ampezzo
Accommodation
- Hotel Montana: Relatively inexpensive and right in the centre, www.cortina-hotel.com
- Ciasa Lorenzi: Also in the centre of town with a very good restaurant, www.ciasalorenzi.it
- Hotel Serena: nice, reasonably priced hotel, www.hotelserenacortina.it
- Hotel de la Poste: Elegant, centrally located grand hotel, www.delaposte.it
- Hotel de Len: Newly opened, modern designer hotel, www.hoteldelen.it
Camping
Just outside Cortina and right by the river are three idyllic campsites. We stayed at Camping Rocchetta (www.campingrocchetta.it) with our motorhome. Very friendly and clean. Directly opposite: Camping Cortina with its own good and reasonably priced pizzeria (www.campingcortina.it). From these campsites, it's about a 20-minute walk to the town centre. A little further out is the slightly more upmarket International Camping Olympia (www.campingolympiacortina.it)
Food and drink
We have tried these three restaurants and can recommend them:
- Ristorante Pizzeria Al Passetto: Opposite the railway station. The owner is ski legend Kristian Ghedina. Super pizza at moderate prices.
- Pizzeria Cinque Torri: Right in the centre. The trendy meeting place, yet not overpriced.
- Il Vizietto di Cortina: Somewhat hidden in the backyard, away from the hustle and bustle. Upscale Italian cuisine, but no pizza. A little insider tip.
Overnight stay in a hut
Especially in the mornings and evenings, the light moods high above Cortina are particularly impressive. It is therefore worth spending the night at the top. Either in the newly renovated Rifugia Averau (www.rifugioaverau.it) or, even more impressively, in the Rifugio Nuvolau (www.rifugionuvolau). Both huts also offer excellent food. Make sure you book well in advance!
Info
www.cortina-tourism.com, skipasscortina.com
Area highlights around Cortina d'Ampezzo
World War II Museum: Over 100 years ago, one of the hardest-fought front lines of the First World War ran through the mountains above Cortina. Some of the historical sites have been preserved in their original state. The Lagazuoi, Cinque Torri and Sasso di Stria sections of the front and the Tre Sassi fortress on the Valparola Pass form the largest open-air museum of the First World War. There is no entrance fee to visit. A gondola ride up the Lagazuoi is highly recommended. From there, you can hike down through the ancient tunnels. (No bikes allowed!)
Visit film locations: Stallone in Cliffhanger, James Bond on a deadly mission - these are just two of the many well-known films that were shot in Cortina. You can still visit some of the film locations today. For example, the famous suspension bridge from "Cliffhanger", which was specially rebuilt after being blown up for the film in 1993. More information can be found here: www.dolomiti.org
Bike park: Since last year, Cortina has also been busy building trails. The "Cortina Bike Park Dolomiti" offers a network of 18 kilometres of trails of all levels of difficulty.
The Nuvolau hut:
This house is perched like an eagle's nest on the rocky peak of Monte Nuvolau, at an altitude of 2575 metres. It is the oldest refuge in the Dolomites region of Cortina and was opened in 1883. A colonel from Saxony, who was staying in Cortina at the time due to a serious lung disease, had the hut built as a thank you for his recovery. To this day, the hut has retained its 19th century mountaineering charm and offers 24 beds. Info: www.rifugionuvolau.it
The BIKE Report: Right into the heart
In 1909, all was still right with the world up here. That year saw the inauguration of the Great Dolomite Road, which we are currently travelling up just before the Valparola Pass. At the time, this connecting route was hailed as one of the most important engineering projects of the new century. Little did they know that just eight years later, it would no longer be used to transport tourists, but exclusively military equipment.
The year was 1917 and two years earlier the Kingdom of Italy had declared war on the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Since then, a fierce trench war has been raging at the Valparola Pass. The Italian Alpini tried in vain to gain access to the Val Badia and the strategically important Val Pusteria from the south via the pass. But the Austrian Kaiserjäger have entrenched themselves over the pass, on the summit of the small Lagazuoi and on the Hexenstein opposite. Any movement by the Italians was nipped in the bud with artillery fire from up there. A stalemate for both sides. So a new strategy was needed. It is 20 June 1917 when a huge explosion shakes the air. The cloud of dust over the southern flank of the Lagazuoi is so large that it blocks out the sun. Huge pieces of rock pelt over the Valparola Pass. The Italians had drilled a tunnel system into the rock beneath the Austrian position and filled it with 33 tonnes of dynamite...
An explosion is now booming between the rock faces. At least that's what it sounds like. It's just that our opponent is pushing over the Lagazuoi as a black storm front. The rumble of thunder echoes through our bones, which have already been through a lot today: From Cortina d'Ampezzo, we have already circumnavigated the Tofana and crossed the Fanes plateau - a total of 1500 metres in altitude. The Fanes tour is actually considered a typical home tour from St. Vigil am Kronplatz. But we wanted to experience a 1000-metre enduro descent in addition to the magnificent landscape, and that is only possible from the south side. A treat that my companion Maxi, a riding technique expert and former enduro pro, has been looking forward to for days. But now it looks like we're going to get really wet on the descent. We hurry over the Valparola Pass, passing the bombed-out "Tre Sassi" fort and the huge gravel fields that still bear witness to the blast on 20 June 1917. Shortly afterwards, we join the enduro trail at the Falzarego Pass. The cream of the tour lies ahead of us, while the thunderstorm blows ever harder at our backs from behind.
Maxi Dickerhoff doesn't just ride a trail. He celebrates it. As smoothly as a cat of prey, he adapts to the rhythm of the trail, circles around the tight bends on the front wheel, pushes off on the soft forest floor as if it were a trampoline, and then sails over the next carpet of roots in a tabletop. For an enduro pro, trails like this, raw and unadapted, are his daily business. It doesn't bother him when a thunderstorm hits us halfway through the route. He disappears into the dense forest towards Cortina, howling with delight, while Sabine, the third in the group, and I switch from the slippery roots to the Falzarego Pass road to our rescue. When we meet up again later - all dripping wet - at the campsite, Maxi has completely changed his mind about the region. A few days earlier, he had been rather reluctantly persuaded to take a trip to Cortina ("beautiful landscape, but boring trails"). Now he has a big grin on his face: "Okay, I'll stay a few more days."
The Strada de la Vena and the Marmolada have lost ground, but the feelings of happiness are still bubbling away
Maxi was not to experience his own personal Cortina favourite until the next day: the Strada de la Vena. Here, too, we were poaching in foreign territory. The starting point for this tour is actually in Alleghe, a small village in the neighbouring valley. But the route from Cortina is easy and extremely fun. At least since the Cortina Skyline 10-seater gondola lift opened two years ago. Now four lift transfers bridge the 1000 metres of altitude difference in between and at the mountain station of the "Duca d'Aosta" chairlift, a flow trail called "Tofanina" now serves as a connection to the valley station of the Skyline cable car. 400 metres of perfectly lined-up bends and jumps - a stark contrast to the rough nature trails we experienced the day before.
Only at the Cinque Torri do we have to pedal up the last steep metres to the Averau hut ourselves. The treads of our tyres get really sucked into this typically deep Dolomite gravel. But it's not just the delicious Schlutzkrapfen on the terrace of the hut that makes up for the hard work, but also the view: from this ridge you can see into both valleys. To the north, Lagazuoi, Tofana, Cinque Torri and the Cristallo massif dominate the scenery, to the south, the mighty Civetta is just letting the sun shine on its belly, the summit rocks of the Marmolada are trying to shade their remaining ice carapace and to the right, the Sella group flaunts itself on the horizon. The assembled summit celebrities of the Dolomites from just one vantage point.
However, we shouldn't spend too much time marvelling, as there is still a lot to do and time can quickly run out, as we learned yesterday. It's a good thing that we find the entrance to the rocky, somewhat exposed trail below the Averau rock teeth straight away. The path runs through the mountain flank as if painted into this panorama. Initially rocky and alpine, we then glide almost silently through meadows. The trail that gives the route its name, the Strada de la Vena, is less spectacular. This old supply route for an iron ore mine has been widely gravelled in recent years. Unfortunately, its charm is gone.
So it's not the Strada de la Vena itself that will delight Maxi so much at the end of this tour, but a coincidence that should happen to us on the way back towards Cortina. But first we have to pedal back up the hairpin bends to Passo Giau at Colle Santa Maria. However, after more than an hour's effort, the old chairlift at Rifugio Fedare offers its service. So we float along for quite a while over the alpine meadows, back towards the Rifugio Averau. Maxi turns round to us from the front chair: "What's that on the right on the rock above the Averau hut?" I squint my eyes. That's right, there seems to be another hut. Sabine pulls up the digital map on her mobile phone: Rifugio Nuvolau. "Is there a road up there?" Maxi wants to know. The answer is no, as we discover after 130 metres of pushing and carrying up a stepped path. But as we step onto the terrace with its 360-degree eagle's-eye view, Maxi says what everyone is thinking: "THIS is the most beautiful place in the Dolomites."
