The great painters would all have capitulated. Caspar David Friedrich, William Turner, Bob Ross. They would all have dropped their brushes, packed up their easels and shaken their heads in retreat. Simply too beautiful. The Lord God has already performed his masterpiece.
We sit, lie and swing in what is possibly the most beautiful hut in the world, nestled in what is possibly the most beautiful landscape in the world and run by what is possibly the most beautiful couple of hut landlords in the world. All of this can be found hidden away in a cul-de-sac called Lungiarü, a small side valley of the South Tyrolean Val Badia.
It's day 3 of our EMTB exploration of Alta Badia, the Alta Badia Valley or Upper Badia Valley. And basically we were already at the end of our vocabulary on day 1, our vocabulary exhausted. The scenery is so magnificent, the food so delicious, the people so friendly - the overall atmosphere is simply heavenly. Maybe that's why the Ladin people tend to be quiet types. What are they supposed to say? You can see everything. Words can't make it any better.
Although the Ladin language naturally also sounds pretty. The pleasantly soft Tschisch sounds, the gently throaty Gurgler. At the Ütia Ciampcios (pronounced Ütscha Tschamptschos), we enjoy listening to Noemi and Raffael, the host siblings, chatting with Corinne and Michelangel, our guide siblings. They are sitting under the somewhat tattered Ladin flag. The weather is not always as calm as it is today, emphasises Raffael. The elements like to let their forces play out in the Dolomites and then they also tug and tear at the flag fabric.
Not today. Today, the sun is shimmering over the nine and ten metres directly opposite. We doze in the hammocks and sink into huge pillows filled with hay. Basically, we're just waiting to have another drink, slumber some more and then look at the clock and realise that we might as well have another cake. Because the truth is: none of us want to leave here. Ever again.
It's not that we've only seen the best side of Alta Badia. It's not that we only visited the places where the landscape was particularly attractive to visitors. On the contrary, we set off in all directions, we have been up the valley from behind, travelling the slopes left and right on narrow paths, looking ahead at the beginning and looking back at the end. And at some point we complained because there was simply nothing to complain about.
Dolomite spectacle away from the Sella Ronda
On day 1, we wind our way up the Rit from the small village of La Val at the entrance to the valley. St. Vigil, the home of Corinne and Michelangel, lies at the back of the inconspicuous mountain. Across open meadows, through dense forest and with sweeping views across to Kronplatz and into the Fanes-Sennes Dolomites. South Tyroleans not only have a tendency to cycle uphill and downhill, they also have the highly praiseworthy habit of stopping off at every mountain hut. And so, after less than an hour (but still 650 metres in altitude), we are already sitting at the small, remote Ütia di Rit. The e-MTBs are resting in the homemade wooden bike stand and are being charged with solar power. A quick coffee, they say - followed by a cake and a long chat.
Relaxed and full to the brim, we finally set off downhill, shooting after Corinne on a narrow, undulating path and heading straight for the Fanes rocks. The relaxation gives way to tension as path number 13 brings us into close contact with the massive wall and turns into a high alpine trail. A zigzag through the scree requires measured riding and a certain amount of technique - even for those who descend and try to find their footing on foot.
We continue towards the Antoniusjoch with the famous Sas dles Nü in front of us until we branch off to the right into the forest, where the rocks become fewer and the roots more. Finally, we roll out onto the velvety Armentara meadows. Opposite us now lies the Peitlerkofel (at whose feet we will rest two days later on the Ütia Campcios) and to the left the Heiligkreuzkofel, the South Tyrolean Enrosadira flagship par excellence.
We now encounter people for the first time on the lush green high plateau. And at the Ranch da Andrè, we are not the only ones pouncing on the turtres, the Ladin spinach dumplings. How can it be that we were so lonely on this tour? Corinne shrugs her shoulders: "South Tyrol is small, but huge when it comes to biking opportunities, so it's spread out." The bike park riders stick to Kronplatz, where there are some of the finest trails in the Alps. Tourers can let off steam in the surrounding area between the Ahrn and Pustertal valleys, while enduro riders can ride from Sexten to Fassa.
Michelangel admits, however, that he has picked out less typical tours for us. Laps where there is little going on in terms of people - but all the more scenery. Most bikers in Alta Badia are only after one thing - or one stick - anyway: You'll never be alone on the Sellastock circuit. But we don't want to tick a classic off our bucket list. What do we have e-MTBs for? We don't want to shuttle, we want to explore.
Speechless on the Pralongià plateau
The next day, however, we cross sections of the Sella Ronda. At the start from St. Kassian, along a hand-width high-altitude path on the slopes of the Cunturines peaks, which are over 3000 metres high, we first encounter no hikers, no bikers, no farmers - but trees blown over by the storm that don't want to give way to us. Down in Armentarola it gets a little livelier, but by no means crowded. Michelangel shakes his head. "It's not even like this in winter in this corner," he says. "There's also the most environmentally friendly ski lift in the world here - a horse and cart that pulls you up to the entrance to the ski area."
We tackle the huge Pralongià high plateau from the (almost) lift-free rear, cycle above the tree line and once again start searching for words. The white ridge of the Marmolada appears on the left. It doesn't get any higher in the Dolomites. In front of us are plush alpine meadows dotted with brown roasted barns. The Pralongià mountain hut is (now) much larger. It has grown well over the 80 years it has been here. Dieter Niederkofler's great-great-grandfather and two of his 16 (!) siblings built it in the 1920s. In pre-mountain railway times, so to speak. There is no direct lift up here in summer - but there is a new downhill trail for bikers. Before that, however, it's time to go round in circles with a strudel and cappuccino. The mountains here are simply too spectacular. Marmolata, Sella massif, Sassongher, Sasso Croce, Lagazuoi - as if the mountain giants were gathering around the round table called Pralongià for a consultation.
Shortly before the hut, we join the first of the Bike Beats trails that the Gadertal Valley has created here in recent years. A growing network of trails whose difficulty level is indicated in heartbeats. The "Fle" (breath) winds its way for a fun kilometre over groomed berms and lots of wood to the Rifugio La Marmotta. Corinne and Michelangel don't even have to tell us that we're probably crossing the Sella Ronda route here, the number of bikers is suddenly so high. However, we turn off in the other direction, head towards Corvara and pedal back to the plateau via the Capanna Nera, which is steep in places. Once around the corner and the paths are bustling - Corinne turns round with a grin: "As you can see, you can get up here by lift". We roll over to the Las Vegas Lodge at walking pace - a caffè is still possible. The finale is just under three enjoyable kilometres of trail from Piz Sorega to St. Kassian: the easy Ödli (eyes) or the somewhat more challenging Cör (heart) both lead into the Avëna (vein).
To the Puez-Geisler Nature Park
Today, day 3, we are dozing on the Ütia Ciampcios and pondering whether we could possibly make a U-turn in life - no matter what, no matter how, the main thing is to head in this direction. The pretty brother and sister have done just that. Noemi and Raffael moved away from home to work as a graphic designer and company owner - and returned a few years later. Their professional success could not compensate for this. So they have converted the small family hut in the middle of the Puez-Geisler Nature Park into a place to rest and make their own products - from juices to ointments. Corinne and Michelangel have also left. She studied architecture, her brother, who is a year younger, mechatronics. Neither of them could stand being away from home. "I put on 10 kilos in just a few months and was in a really dark mood," says Michelangel, shaking her head. So they returned to San Vigilio and opened their bike school MTB San Vigilio.
We, on the other hand, would probably run the risk of putting on 10 kilos in a very short space of time. With this in mind, we sway out of the hammock to take another look at the selection of cakes. Are we in a hurry, Michelangel? He looks up irritated. In a hurry? The word doesn't seem to exist in Ladin. We cross it out of our vocabulary - and take off our bike shoes. A paradise should be savoured.
The 3 super panoramic tours of Alta Badia
Tour 1: Armentara meadows
- Length: 29.4 kilometres
- Uphill: 1364 metres in altitude
- Difficulty: medium - difficult (approx. 15 per cent to S2)
- Trail share: 28 per cent
Tour description
A tour could hardly be more varied and panoramic. The starting point of La Val (Wengen) lies on the steep slopes at the beginning of the Val Badia. Passing the picturesque little church of San Genesio and old farmsteads, the route climbs up the back of the Rit to its summit. Here you can enjoy a 360-degree view: Peitlerkofel, Kronplatz, Fanes Group and Neuner, Zehner and Heiligkreuzkofel, in whose direction you continue. Via the Ütia da Rit, which is worth a stop, you get closer and closer to the rock faces in the direction of the Antoniusjoch. Trail no. 13 begins quite harmlessly, but then becomes challengingly alpine. The weight pushes and a good technique is required as well as sure-footedness when descending. As soon as you enter the forest, however, it becomes smoother. You end up below the Sas Dla Crusc, the Heiligkreuzkofel, on the Armentara meadows and roll across the sensationally beautiful plateau to the La Ranch hut. A fine meadow trail takes you back to the snow caves on the Heiligkreuzkofel, which are created by a freak of nature even in summer. The route back down into the valley is varied and takes you along the sometimes challenging, sometimes flowing trail number 15 to La Val.
Starting point: La Val / Wengen
Retreat: Ütia da Rit (2000 m) and Ranch da Andrè (1855 m)
Key points: Trail number 13 is challenging with slippery scree, large boulders and gruelling climbs. Trail number 15, on the other hand, is smoother and can be ridden without any major obstacles.
Tour 2: Pralongià high plateau
- Length: 26 kilometres
- Uphill: 1200 metres in altitude
- Difficulty: medium
- Trail share: 26 per cent
Tour description
In St. Kassian, leave the cable cars behind and instead cycle up the slopes of the Cunturines peaks on the opposite side. Here, a narrow mountain path leads south-eastwards and finally a fine nature trail down to Armentarola. You then gain metres in altitude on the forest path that winds its way up the back of the Pralongià plateau. The wide alpine meadows offer a magnificent panoramic view of the great Dolomites: from the glaciers of the Marmolada to the Sella massif and the Puez Group with the Sassongher to the Sasso Croce. At the Pralongià mountain hut, the first of the Bike Beats trails begins: the flowing Fle Trail to Ütia La Marmotta. Above Corvara, continue along the Strada Col Alt to the Biok summit station. From here, there are more people - the high-altitude trails are well populated, so ride slowly. You can stop off again at the Las Vegas hut before deciding whether to take the easy Ödli trail or the moderately difficult Cör trail back to San Cassiano/St. Kassian at Piz Sorega.
Starting point: San Cassiano
Retreat: Pralongià mountain hut, Las Vegas hut
Key points: The trails are all easy to ride. The final Cör trail has a difficulty of up to S2, but it can also be replaced by the green Ödli.
Tour 3: Lungiarü
- Length: 40.2 kilometres
- Uphill: 1547 metres in altitude
- Difficulty: medium (max. S1)
- Trail share: 8 per cent
Tour description
From La Ila (star) at the foot of the Gardenazza plateau, the route climbs up the western side and out of the valley on the slope above Badia (abbey). Soft forest paths and forest roads take you via Pescol and the Joeljoch at the foot of the mighty rocks of the Puez Group into the secluded Lungiarü basin (there are no motorcyclists or lifts in this dead-end valley). The absolutely picturesque Ütia Ciampcios can be reached via gravel tracks. If you wish, you can continue to the Medalgesalm on the ridge.
After stopping for refreshments, the route takes you down a partly rocky, rough trail to the small mountaineering village, which is made up of viles: traditional housing estates with beautiful, well-preserved farmsteads. You should take a little time here to explore the cultural Ladin heritage before travelling a good distance out of the valley on tarmac. In Ties, turn right and gain a few more metres in altitude up to the mountain ridge. The route now runs parallel to the Gadertal valley before descending into the valley and following the Gran Ega river back to La Ila.
Starting point: La Ila / Star
Retreat: Ütia Ciampcios
Key points: The path from Ütia down to Lungiarü is bumpy in places.
The GPS data for the three tours can be found in the BIKE tour portal:
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Info Alta Badia
Arrival
By car from the north via Innsbruck and the Brenner motorway, take the Brixen-Pustertal exit to Sankt Lorenzen and continue on the Val Badia state road SS244 to Alta Badia. Take the train to Brunico/Bruneck and then the bus of the South Tyrolean public transport network for approx. 40 km to Val Badia/Gadertal.
Sleeping
The bike hotel Pider, run by bike fanatic Markus Rubatscher, is located in the small village of La Val at the start of the Gadertal valley.La Val, Hotel Pider, Str. San Senese 22 in Wengen/La Valle, pider.info
The Tofana bike hotel is located in the centre of San Cassiano: modern architecture, a spa on the roof and excellent cuisine. Hotel Tofana, Str. Micurà de Rü 63, in San Cassiano/St. Kassian, hoteltofana.it
The bike hotel Störes has a special location on the outskirts of San Cassiano/St. Kassian at 1537 metres - including a sunbathing lawn by the pool with a view of the Dolomites. Hotel Störes, Str. Plan 22, in San Cassiano/St. Kassian, hotelstores.it
Food
A Canadian log cabin in a Dolomite setting: At 2000 metres above sea level on the ridge of the Rit, the Ütia da Rit (open until 20 October) is a great place to dine and recharge your batteries. Info: utiadarit.it
The small Ütia Campcios (open until 20 October) is located in the middle of plush meadows in front of the Puez-Geisler rocks. It's best to leave a little space in your rucksack for the young landlady's homemade products. uetiaciampcios.com
The sensational view is accompanied by excellent Ladin and Tyrolean dishes in the small Ciablun tavern (above La Val, open until 26.10.24), ciablun.it
Bikepark & Guide
A small bike park is developing between the Pralongià plateau and Piz Sorega. The difficulty of the Bike-Beats trails is indicated in heartbeats: relaxed at 88 BPM on the Ödli, an increased 115 BPM on the Avëna trail and a powerful 135 heartbeats per minute on the Cör trail. A total of 5 trails and two pump tracks. Open from mid-June to 6.10.24 (9 a.m. - 5 p.m.), info: bikepark-altabadia.it
The MTB San Vigilio bike school run by Corinne and Michelangel Promberger is located in San Vigilio/St. Vigil, they also work together with the bike hotels in La Val and San Cassiano/St. Kassian, mtb-sanvigilio.it
