I've wanted to go to the gym for ten years - and I've only managed it once. I hate myself for it now. Because all that's stopping my bike from plummeting to certain rocky death below is my untrained hand. It's gripping the down tube of my beloved bike like a vice. Apart from that, it only balances with the pins of its flat pedals on the outside corner of this ridiculous lift: a canary-yellow stand-up cage for one person. The only support is your own arm, which you have to stick through the bars. Unfortunately, we creak very, very slowly towards the 1019 metre-high summit of Monte Capanne. It is the highest point on the Mediterranean island of Elba. The lift ride wasn't actually planned. Holger Meyer, Karen Eller and I have come to Elba to explore the island's lesser-known hiking trails. According to the map, there is a whole spider's web of paths across the island's mountains. And far beyond the now famous Capoliveri bike park. Cleverly combined, you can cross the small island to the west one day and to the east the next - on the most beautiful trails. But you have to show physical effort to reach these trails. Hence the decision to take the yellow lift. It should save us at least one sweaty climb. The man behind the ticket counter just shrugs his shoulders indifferently when we ask if he will let us get on the lift with our bikes. Sure, we're in Italy and we find the answer "Why not?" much more refreshing than the usual "Why should I?" Originally, we wanted to pedal up the mountain ourselves from the village of Marciana and join trail no. 6 at the top. The trail leads around Monte Capanne until it drops down to the sea on the southern flank of the mountain. But we had the great idea of taking the lift.
When we reach the summit of the Capanne, I can hardly let go of my bike, my forearm is so cramped. Instead, we are greeted by a cloud of radio waves, as the summit is covered in aerials. Not very cosy. Nevertheless, two pensioners stretch out on bath towels to rub the first sunburn of the year into their skin. The 360-degree panorama, on the other hand, seems to leave them cold. 30 kilometres to the west, a gigantic rock bastion rises out of the sea: Elba's French cousin, Corsica. To the east, just ten kilometres away, stretches the mainland of Tuscany. You can even make out the marina at Punta Ala. The first race of the Enduro World Series will take place there in a month's time. Elba will probably not notice any of the enduro hustle and bustle. Even today, we have the trails here all to ourselves - apart from the two leather-skinned pensioners, of course.
We roll from the summit into a kind of natural staircase. A completely blocked rocky lane that is little, if any, fun. We struggle from step to step for 400 metres and it soon becomes clear that we haven't done ourselves any favours with the ascent. Only when we reach the trail we had originally planned does the flow finally return. And that's exactly what I had promised Holger and Karen on Elba. Thank goodness it was Holger who suggested the lift. But they both know that you have to put a lot of energy into a trip if you want to get the most out of the experience of nature. Our efforts today are now being rewarded. The path we are now following becomes more and more fun, and the frustration of the descent to the summit quickly fades. Finally, we are at the start of what is probably the best descent on the whole island: trail no. 7. The markings on the rocks and tree trunks even match those on the map. First we shoot through sweeping spiral paths that wind around pine and hazelnut trees. Then the forest opens up and we find ourselves in an open mountain flank. Thyme and rosemary are steaming so strongly in the April sun that we almost feel dizzy. But the scent reminds us that the glittering blue below is the Mediterranean. On the rest of the descent, I try my hardest to stay on Holger's rear wheel. You can really feel that this flow was created by hand. I'd already heard that Elba has a small, but excellent mountain bike community. But I always thought it was limited to the bike park in Capoliveri.
Speaking of which: something must have gone wrong with the gearing. In other regions, bike park means: a handful of trails with a downhill tendency, plus a climbing aid. But the bike park on Elba's south-east peninsula is unlikely to attract any downhill pros. There are only a few designated touring circuits here. On my first visit to Elba, I had grabbed a park overview map in Capoliveri full of hope, only to realise in frustration that the "trail circuits" were more likely to be forest roads. With interspersed trail snippets as a connection to the next gravel road. Although this is nice fitness training, for me it has little to do with adventure and riding fun. Just as I was pedalling out of the black-marked 30-kilometre loop, I met a group of 20 bikers who were excitedly pedalling in at that moment. I'm sure they thought that was all Elba had to offer for mountain bikers. But one look at the map of the whole of Elba is enough to realise the island's true potential.
Just five kilometres north of Capoliveri is the starting point for our return crossing of the island: Porto Azzurro. We cycle up the mountain from the small coastal town for an hour and a half until we reach the trail that cuts across the mountain flank at an altitude of around 400 metres. That's where we thread in: It curves with us on a rollercoaster course towards the northernmost tip of the island, down to Cavo. Our goal for today is to ride along the entire island ridge in one day. All we have to do is follow the GTE (Grand Traverse dell'Elba) markings, as this path is a variant of the long-distance hiking trail and appears to be rideable. At times it appears as an ancient, brittle mule track, then it eases back into a velvet path. From time to time, the path puffs up into a rough stone field, but the next bend in the path can usually already be recognised, which catches us again with grip. As the path winds along the top of the ridge, you have to hold your breath to avoid sliding down the slope to the right and left. Not least because of the sensational view over Elba's hills and the deep blue sea below. I wonder how many of the scurrying holidaymaker ants down there on the beach know that there is such an epic trail up here, far above their sandcastles? In the meantime, we have tackled the 20-minute climb up Monte Grosso. We've now been on our northern traverse for six hours and have covered just 1200 metres in altitude. From a vantage point in the far north of the island, I can see the starting point of our ride and Capoliveri behind it.
You can almost reach out and touch the mainland from here. I look back over the entire summit ridge that we rode along and pick out the highlights of our tour in my mind: the place where I got a flat tyre, the sickly steep section with the loose scree, the zigzag trail in the forest and the last sweaty climb. To the west, above the bay of Portoferraio, rises the conical head of Monte Capanne.
I follow Holger and Karen into our last downhill trail, which now finally spits us out at the bottom by the sea. Over a beer in the beach bar, we agree: this is THE enduro jewel, this "other Elba".
BIKE information about Elba
The island
Elba lies just off the mainland of Tuscany and is a perfect biking destination ten months of the year. Only in the two peak summer months is the island very crowded and the climate too hot for biking. In total, Elba is only 27 kilometres long, but its two mountain ridges - one from east to west and the other from north to south - are home to hundreds of kilometres of hiking trails.
Journey
If you really want to fly to Elba, it is best to book a flight to Pisa, drive to Piombino in a hire car and cross over to the island in 45 minutes. Price ferry incl. car: approx. 50 euros (one way)
Accommodation
can be found in Porto Azzurro and Capoliveri all year round. Map In the compass map "Elba", no. 650, all hiking trails are precisely marked. You should always be prepared for stretches where you have to push your bike. We followed the GTE from Porto Azzurro to Cavo and the trails marked 5 (very technical), 7, 34 and 35 near Monte Capanne and Campo nell'Elba. But there are more!
You can also find his story, accompanied by breathtaking pictures, as a PDF download below.
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