Bike trails Sardinia: The pastoral trails of Ulassai

"It will be wild, tough and unpredictable" - Lorenzo had warned us that we were embarking on an adventure in Sardinia. "But you'll love it," the half-Sardinian added. The latter sentiment, however, doesn't really want to materialise at the moment. For what felt like hours, we've been trudging through the wilderness. Thorns whip us in the face. We push, carry and swear. One minute we're in full flow and suddenly the trail is over. Wild boars have done a great job here and turned the path into a battlefield.

Unfortunately, we've lost our bearings along the way. "Pigs are the only natural enemies of bikers here," explains Lorenzo and pulls out his radio. "Dad, where are you?" Half an hour later, we are sitting exhausted in Lorenzo's father's Defender. The two of them have exchanged our location over the radio, as there is no mobile phone reception anywhere here. Thank goodness they've both practised, because we haven't been in the car long when darkness falls. Sardinia is still a blank spot on the biker map. "Most of the people who wanted to try mountain biking here left after a short time," says Lorenzo.

We know why, and not just since our wild boar trip. Over the last few days, we've got to know the island up close. Yes, there are endless trails here. A millennia-old network of paths used by goatherds spans the wooded mountain landscape inland. However, many end as dead ends in the primeval forest-like vegetation or on the cliffs of the rugged "Tacchi", as the Sardinians in the Ulassai area call their mountains. You have to be local to find your way around here. Just like Lorenzo. The future Italian downhill champion was already riding his bike here as a child because his mother was born in Sardinia and grew up in Ulassai. Lorenzo now works as a bike guide in Valle d'Aosta, but comes to the island several times a year. Together with the "Fura Grabas", the goat thieves, as the bikelocals call themselves, he has been working on this trail network for years. He now wants to show us the fruits of this labour and has pulled out all the stops to do so. He has even enlisted his retired father to help us with our research in a borrowed Land Rover.

We have recorded the three best tours in the region with GPS: The Taccu tour leads over three of the Fura Grabas' house trails and winds its way along the typical tacchi around Ulassai. The route here is completely secluded, over partly rough, partly flowing trails. You mostly cross primeval forest-like vegetation, but also pass open summits with gigantic views. On the second, the King's Tour, everything revolves around the region's most impressive natural monument: the Perda Liana rock. It rises vertically into the sky between the Gennargentu massif and the Gulf of Orosei. This is one of the most sparsely populated areas in Europe - with correspondingly unspoilt trails. You bump over a disused railway line, pass an old Nuragic fortress and golden eagles circle in the sky. The third tour should end by the sea, we asked the locals. After all, what would Sardinia be without beach life? The result: a picture-book trail high above the Gulf of Orosei with an arrival directly on the shore, which more than makes up for the unpredictable and wild rides of the last few days.

Tour 1: Perda Liana Tour

• Length: 60 kilometres
• Uphill: 1827 metres in altitude
• Duration: 7 hours
• Difficulty: difficult

Tour description

The Perda Liana rock towers over the Tonneri plateau like a giant spur. Myths of witches and demons surround the 1293 metre high limestone monument. In one of these old stories, the rock is considered the "gateway to hell". It is said that anyone who climbs up there will be showered with gold, but will sell their soul to the demons. Bikers are also rewarded on this royal tour: with the finest trails, unspoilt nature and historical curiosities. From Ulassai, gravel paths and lonely tarmac roads lead via Osini and Taquisara to the foot of the Perda Liana rock. Then it's time to get down to business: steep, stepped mountain paths with sliding passages climb up to just below the vertical walls of the Perda Liana rock. But from up here, the view stretches as far as the sea. After the strenuous pushing section up to Su Stampu, a sensational trail descent awaits. For seven kilometres, the route winds its way downhill on overgrown forest paths and single trails. At the Forestas enclosure, it's worth making a short stop at the fence to see a tame deer. A little later, the trail joins a disused railway line. Follow this for a short distance to the Niala restaurant (sumptuous Sardinian multi-course menus, recommended!). The rest of the tour follows trails and old shepherd's paths through the Gennargentu mountains. Past Is Tostoinus, an old nuragic village, then along the Sentiero della Acquile across a panoramic plateau. A steep section with a few steps leads up to an old Nuragic fortress (Nuraghe Serbissi). It is worth taking a break here and climbing up the steep spiral staircase to the ancient lookout tower. The route back to the starting point is mainly along forest paths, but at the end there is another final highlight: the Gedili Trail. It ends directly at the Ulassai sports ground.

Tour 2: Taccu circuit

• Length: 37.3 kilometres
• Uphill: 1370 metres in altitude
• Duration: 5 hours
• Difficulty: medium to difficult

Tour description

The landscape around Ulassai, the small mountain village in the Sardinian Gennargentu mountains, is dominated by unique mountain formations. The locals call these rugged high plateaus "tacchi". It is a landscape straight out of old Wild West films. The ancient shepherds' paths that cling to the wild mountain flanks also fit in with this. And it is precisely these old paths that the locals from the Fura Grabas bike club have cleared for bikers. The tour starts in Piazza Barigau, the village square of Ulassai, and now connects three of these Tacchi high plateaus. First on tarmac, then on rustic forest paths through cork oak forests up to the Vedetta Punta Seccu viewpoint. The first downhill highlight awaits here: first a single trail, then a steep path with lots of bends and natural jumps - the Seccu Trail requires good riding technique. Somewhat exposed and challenging, but with fantastic views of further tacchi, the trail finally leads onto the road towards Santa Barbara. Passing a 100-metre-high waterfall (only active during periods of rain), the route leaves civilisation again after just under four kilometres. A gravel track winds its way up to the start of the Frasara Trail. This descent stretches - sometimes flowing, sometimes blocked - for almost 400 metres downhill through the wild macchia. The last 200 metres down to the La Carra valley floor in particular require concentration if you don't want to drift away on the scree and end up in the thorn bushes. On the other hand, you can relax on the following gravel climb up to the third trail entrance before the final descent is a real challenge: After a few panoramic metres, you tunnel through the jungle on the narrowest of trails and in some places you have to be careful not to get a liana caught on your bike. The fun ends at the course of the Rio Barigaus. Then it's back to Ulassai on tarmac.

Tour 3: Baunei Tour

• Length: 25.8 kilometres
• Uphill: 609 metres in altitude
• Downhill: 1015 metres in depth
• Duration: 3.5 hours
• Difficulty: difficult

Tour description

The small town of Baunei on the east coast of Sardinia is known for its cliffs and spectacular bays. However, the routes to these places lead along adventurous rocky paths that are rather unsuitable for bikers. However, at the southern tip of the rocky coast, there is a creamy trail with a 500 metre drop to the sea. If you are only interested in this downhill fun, you can skip the first loop of this tour and head straight to the trail entrance on Monte Scoine. However, that would be a shame, as the landscape and the sights on this tour are just as attractive. From Baunei, follow the tarmac road slightly uphill to the Su Golgo plateau and change here to a wider sand/gravel path that leads gently downhill into the next valley. The forest paths are not very demanding, so you can keep an eye out for the wild (happy) domestic pigs along the way and the goats that sometimes climb around in the trees. The destination of the tour is the Rifugio Goloritze. Here you can enjoy a delicious meal (be sure to try the culurgiones).

From here, it is also worth making a detour to the Faccia Liticia. A mighty rock that looks like a face depending on the light. Goosebumps alert! Also nearby: Il Golgo, the deepest karst gorge in Europe at 295 metres. Roll back on tarmac and turn left onto gravel at the highest point of the tour. Soon a breathtaking view opens up over the valley (Bella Vista). After a few rather rough metres of trail and a final steep gravel climb, you head up towards Monte Scoine. The most beautiful trail in the region begins here, 600 metres above the Gulf of Orosei. To get you in the mood, the trail is gentle and flowing on grippy ground, later steep and challenging in classic enduro style. In the second half, however, the trail is partly eroded, so even good riders will have to push in one or two places. The tour ends in front of the Sa Cadrea restaurant, just above Santa Maria Navarrese. If you still have some energy left: A few metres above the restaurant, an exposed trail starts heading north along the steep coast with fantastic views of the famous Pedra Longa rocky outcrop. However, the trail ends after a few kilometres at the cliffs and you have to turn back.

GPS data:

Info Sardinia

The precinct: Sardinia is the second largest island in the Mediterranean and is not called its "own continent" for nothing. Spring and autumn are considered the best times to visit - with little rain, plenty of sun but not too much heat. The inhabitants are proud of their history, tradition, delicious local food and excellent local wines. There are also countless ancient sights, some of which can be found along the tours presented here.

Journey: When travelling by ferry, there are many offers to choose from. The internet portal www.directferries.com is a good place to look for the best offer depending on the date and route. Various harbours can be combined, both from the mainland and from the island. If you are coming from the north, you can start from Genoa or Livorno; our route took us from Genoa to Porto Torres in the north-west of the island and back the same way.

Guided tours: As the island is not yet so well developed for tourism, especially in the area around Ulassai, it's a good idea to ask Lorenzo for help. He is half Sardinian, half German and knows every stone in the area. Enquiries and bookings can be made via his website: www.lorenzosuding.com

The bike locals of Ulassai call themselves the Fura Grabas, email: furagrabasmtb@gmail.com; you can also contact Antonio Boi directly. The local speaks several languages, is the island's official cave and nature guide and has the old shepherd's paths all memorised.

Accommodation:

• Ulassai: Hotel Su Marmuri is the only hotel directly in the village. Simple, friendly and very central. Info: www.hotelsumarmuri.com
• Scala San Giorgio, ten minutes from Ulassai, near Osini on a plateau, surrounded by nature. scalasangiorgio@gmail.com
• Hotel Orlando, upscale category, about 30 minutes from Ulassai. Info: www.hotelorlandosardegna.com
• B&B in Ulassai: Antico Borgo, tel. 0039/333/7451813, anticoborgoulassai@libero.it
• B&B Da Charlie, Tel. 0039/345/0705768, charlie.bedandbreakfast@gmail.com
• Capretta Nera Apartments, Tel 0039/350/0099690
• Camping Theleme, tel. 0039/388/9082106, www.campingtheleme.com
• Baunei: Hotel Goloritze directly in the village: www.hotelgoloritze.it
• Camping: Villaggio Camping Le Cernie near Lotzorai - somewhat remote, but right by the sea with excellent food. Chef Claudio cooks here personally. Mobile homes and pitches. Info: www.campinglecernie.it

Bike shops: Giuseppe Loddo's Bike Town, tel. 0039/331/4338709 in Tortoli, approx. 30 minutes from Ulassai. In Cagliari: Bike Green with hire, spare parts and workshop. www.sardiniabikegreen.com/de/

Food and drink:

• In Ulassai and the surrounding area: Ristorante Grotta Su Marmuri, typical Sardinian, next to the stalactite cave (tour 2)
• Trattoria Ferro & Fuoco, next to the Hotel Su Marmuri in the centre of Ulassai, tel. 0039/782/222999
• Pizzeria & Restaurant Rifugio Ogliastra, also perfect for large groups with plenty of space and good food, tel. 0039/320/6063728
• Ristorante Da Concetta, simple dishes, local ingredients, authentic and always friendly, tel. 0039/782/70224
• In Baunei and the surrounding area: Birrifio d'Oglistra brewery and inn, local beer and regional dishes. Tel. 0039/340/5314663
• Agriturismo Il Golgo is located on the tour (Località Golgo). Local specialities, geological sights and nuraghes
• Sa Cadrea Bar & Aperitivo Lounge: Tour 3 ends here, where you sit with a view of one of the most beautiful coasts in Sardinia. The perfect end to the tour, then it's straight to the beach.
• Dispensa 125, speciality shop in the middle of Baunei. Here you can find delicious regional specialities for self-catering.

General information: www.sardegnaturismo.it/de

Further information: www.italia.it/en

Easy MTB tours with panoramic views on Sardinia's west coast

One of the reasons why you should also move to the west coast: Here you can watch the sun sink into the sea in the evening. But there are also ancient archaeological sites, places steeped in history, rice fields, griffon vultures and beautiful beaches to discover. Here are two beautiful panoramic tours along Sardinia's west coast:

Tour 1: Alghero - to the Capo Marrargiu

Tour description

The tour starts in the small town of Alghero, at the Parco dei Giardini. Right at the start of the tour, you pass the imposing Torre di Sulis (or Torre dell'Espero Reial), an Aragonese defence tower, before continuing along the Dante promenade along the Riviera del Corallo. You now follow the famous Alghero-Bosa coastal road for 40 kilometres. On one side, the mountain ridges of Villanova tower up, while on the other, the view sweeps over the coastline again and again. The route is often pleasantly downhill. Nevertheless, it is always worth stopping for a short break, as griffon vultures (Gyps fulvus) can often be seen in the sky here. Especially at the Capo Marrargiu rest area (after approx. 30 km).

The route then turns away from the coast and follows the course of the River Temo towards Bosa (45 km). The historic centre of the small town is the perfect place to stop for a bite to eat. However, you shouldn't eat too much, as the ride back climbs a few hills. Via Montresta (60.5 km), the route climbs steeply to the highest point of the tour (653 m). At kilometre 84, you roll through the small town of Villanova Monteleone: a stop at one of the fountains at the end of the town is almost a must. After that, it's mostly downhill: you surf around the cork and downy oak groves of Logudoro and Nurra with plenty of bends and panoramic views until you get back to Alghero.

Tour 2: Cabras - to the Sinis peninsula

Tour description

The tour starts in the lagoon of the small town of Cabras and leads to Cape San Marco at the end of the Sinis peninsula. The cape entices visitors with its beautiful beaches on both sides, so be sure to pack your swimming gear! The route then continues to San Giovanni di Sinis with its archaeological site of Tharros and its Aragonese tower. After the small fishing village of San Salvatore, the only climb of the tour awaits. Although it is a bit of an effort, it is necessary in order to finally reach the beach of Is Arutas. This beach is famous for its fine quartz crystals. With the Cabras lagoon to the right and fertile wheat and vegetable fields to the left, you then continue northwards towards Putzu Idu.

Here, a trail first leads along the beach and then stretches out to the headland of Capo Mannu, a real surfer's paradise. The return journey takes you back inland through the fertile Campidano, where vineyards, olive groves and even rice fields come together. In between, you pass the villages of San Vero Milis, Tramatza and Solarussa. Not only do the people here have their very own folklore, they also speak a special dialect. The original Vernaccia di Oristano vine still grows here today in the delta plain of the River Tirso and is one of the oldest vines in the western Mediterranean. The tour ends with a detour past Oristano, the former capital of the Judiciary of Arborea. Want to take a detour to the beautiful old town centre?