If you think you really know Lake Garda with all its trails and tours, you should take a look around the surrounding area. Hardly any other area is as varied and offers so many different landscapes and tours for all abilities in such a small space as the Mountain & Garda Bike Arena. It includes the four tourist regions of Garda Trentino, Val di Ledro, Rovereto and Vallagarina, Trento, Monte Bondone and Valle dei Laghi with Alpine delights and Mediterranean specialities. As a biker, you are never alone there: in no other region do so many like-minded people meet up to bike, have fun, chill out and enjoy themselves - in the evening on the piazza, with a Spritz, a few small snacks, lots of Italian charm and a touch of dolce vita. But from the beginning.
Lake Garda: centre of the bike scene in Trentino
Fat wisps of cloud cling to the steep, rocky edge of Monte Tremalzo. The fresh tailwind speeds up our descent even more. As soon as we pass through the dripping tunnel, a new, exciting scene appears: green ridges and crests interspersed with rocks emerge from the grey sea and disappear again in the mist. Then the sun flashes out briefly and casts its spotlight directly onto a blue patch far, far below - Lake Garda. Instead of endless visibility, the low pressure passing through today gives us a dramatic show with fast clouds, hand-picked sunbeams and landscape puzzle pieces. Wow, I've never experienced the Tremalzo like this before, even though I've often struggled up the classic mountain from different sides. This day is the best proof that you miss a lot if you only get on the saddle when the sun is shining.
When we are still not wet after three hours, my companion Loris Tagliapietra is also grinning. At breakfast, the lake still lay in front of us like pea soup, threads of rain poured down sadly and Loris checked the rain radar on his tablet PC for the third time. I don't think there's anything worse for an Italian than cycling in the rain. That's why Loris planned our trip meticulously according to the satellite image from the internet: It would let up at eleven, then it shouldn't rain for a few hours and the second front would come through in the evening. I was sceptical, but it went exactly according to plan. When the shuttle dropped us off at Lake Ledro shortly before midday, only a few droplets were still falling from the low clouds. In fact, we stayed dry for the entire tour - on the outside. In the evening, five minutes after our arrival in Riva, the first rain shower is already rushing across the lake.
Although I thought I knew the Tremalzo well, this tour showed me again why bikers can ride to Lake Garda for years and always be surprised. Depending on the weather and mood, familiar routes appear new and different. Loris also showed me a descent variant around the Cima Casèt down to Lake Ledro, which we then circumnavigated on the western shore to rush back to the "big" lake via the well-known Ponale road.
We were on the trail of the legendary Rampiledro, a race for real mountain bikers, which was one of the first events at Lake Ledro and took place ten times until 2007. The name says it all, even the numerous newly added concrete sections have not really made the ramps from Molina di Ledro uphill to Passo Nota any flatter. It is only from Bocca dei Fortini that the ascent calms down and we can continue pedalling at a normal heart rate.
The descent from Tremalzo to Tiarno is a colourful mix of gravel, trails and sections paved with concrete. The ride ends with a relaxed cruise along the shores of Lake Ledro, which has four beaches when the weather is better. I'm already happy with the Cima d'Oro restaurant right on the shore, which serves extremely tasty pasta with mushrooms. The perfect highlight is the quick descent from Molina di Ledro along the cycle path.
Routes in the surrounding area offer alternatives to the Lake Garda classics
However, in addition to the classics on and around Lake Garda, tourism managers are trying to establish other routes in the surrounding area. Monte Bondone, the local mountain of the provincial capital Trento, is part of the giant circuit from the northern shore of Lake Garda to Terlago, which leads back over Monte Casale and along the flanks of Monte Misone via Tenno and Lake Ledro. Loris and I start the ascent from the Valle dei Laghi up to the 1600 metre high Bondone in Dro. From there it is only five kilometres to Drena, where a narrow asphalt road winds uphill towards Monte Stivo. A thousand metres in altitude and what feels like a hundred hairpin bends later, we turn left into the forest at a bend with a Jesus cross and now find ourselves in a seemingly endless network of forest paths that criss-cross the flanks of Monte Bondone. Even Loris, who has been trained for the marathons of the BIKE Festivals who is constantly scouring the region, pulls out his map more than once on this day to make sure that we are still on the right route that he has mapped out. We are the only ones on our bikes on the Bondone; on this late summer's day, the only other people roaming the woods apart from us are day trippers and the first mushroom pickers - a sport that the locals are so passionate about that there are legal restrictions on how much they can collect. Three women proudly show us their finds: huge, fragrant porcini mushrooms that make my mouth water.
For now, all I can do is take a bite from the fruit bar and a sip from the plastic bottle. Our rest stop, the Agritur Malga Brigolina at 997 metres, is still over an hour away. The alpine dairy and cheese dairy, once an important business in Sopramonte, now belongs to a large milk producer. It offers delicious specialities such as tangy Vezzena cheese, fresh cheese, homemade yoghurt with wild berries and, of course, Trentino home cooking: high-calorie pasta and polenta in all variations. The view sweeps far across the valley to the Paganella. We get back on our bikes to roll down into the Valle dei Laghi. Loris checks out a few more hidden trails. After a few small, unplanned detours, we end up back on the right route, which leads us to Vezzano. The rest of the way home is a relaxed ride along the partly newly built cycle path in the valley, past the region's lakes. Lago di Santa Massenza joins Lago di Toblino, and just before Dro we cycle round Lago di Cavedine.
To get back to the shores of Lake Garda, we could have added the marked route on Monte Casale - there would have been some nice trails waiting on the descent. But my legs don't feel like it right now. This bike day in the Valle dei Laghi had a completely different character to the usual Lago tours. Instead of a steep ascent and long descent, the tour meanders up and down the flanks of the Bondone, which takes a lot of energy. When I check the GPS in the evening, I realise why: the altitude difference is well over 2000 metres - I could easily have eaten another dessert.
BIKEPARK GARDA TRENTINO
A gravity project for downhillers, freeriders and enduro riders is currently under construction above the rooftops of Nago: the Garda Trentino Bike Park. Three challenging downhill trails are planned - the first of which will open in 2015. "La Val del Diaol" is the name of the route, which many may also know as the "Skull Trail", but the members of the "Associazione AGBA" (Alto Garda Bike Arena) have now been given the green light and the funds for a complete renovation of the trail. The start is just a few hundred metres behind Malga Casina, after which the 4.2-kilometre trail winds its way down to the industrial area of Nago. The legendary 601 is now also officially permitted. It is now officially called the "Seicentonuno" trail. Another descent from Monte Baldo is still to follow: the Coast Trail. All trail information at www.gardatrentino.it/bike
The top tours in the Mountain & Garda Bike region (GPS download below)
Lake Ledro - Tremalzo
The Tremalzo is one of the classics on the lake and is served by several shuttle services. A more honest approach is from Lake Ledro (where you can also be taken, information on shuttles: www.mountaingardabike.com). Countless hairpin bends and concrete ramps take you via Bocca dei Fortini to the famous Passo Nota and Passo Tremalzo. If you start from Lake Ledro, you can treat yourself at the end to the descent over the Ponale with views across Lake Garda to Riva and Torbole. In endless loops, you wind your way up to the Tremalzo and enjoy the panorama over the lake to the south again and again in the upper section. The real reason for the effort is, of course, the downhill over fast gravel paths, trail sections and (in autumn, leaf-covered) forest carpets. This descent will make any brake disc screech as the elevation loss progresses. The tour ends with a loop around Lake Ledro.
Altissimo alternative
This route on the back of the Altissimo makes a wide loop on the side facing away from the lake as far as Brentonico. The small tarmac road leads from Torbole over the Busatte to below Monte Varagna (shuttle also possible here). Hardy bikers push and carry up to the 2079 metre high Altissimo summit. The variant presented here already offers a magnificent view over the lake, leaves the summit to the right and rushes down an unmarked but clearly recognisable meadow trail to the Rifugio Malga Campei. From there, the route descends steeply to Brentonico, alternating between forest and concrete ramps. Then a long but well rolling, undulating route home (sometimes marked with small red bike signs) via Castione, Loppio and the small Passo San Giovanni. Partly on gravel, partly on cycle paths, you follow the course of the valley between Mori and Nago (hopefully with a tailwind), only to end up back on the lake shore in Torbole.
Monte Bondone
Trentino's local mountain is just 20 kilometres from Lake Garda and separates the Adige Valley from the Valle dei Laghi. Countless forest paths criss-cross Monte Bondone. From its summit, you can enjoy fantastic views of the Brenta Dolomites opposite. This long tour starts in Dro, but if you want to shorten it by ten kilometres, you can start in Drena. After a sweat-inducing climb of over 1000 metres on asphalt, you wind your way along the wooded flanks of the Bondone above Cavedine and Lasino until you reach the Lavachel ridge near the small village of Lagolo. Around the Col di Castion and along the Monte Bondone side trail, you reach the perfect place to stop for refreshments, the Agritur Malga Brigolina, which serves delicious local cheese and pasta specialities. From there, descend to Vezzano and return to the Valle dei Laghi via Padergnone, Calavino and Pergolese on the cycle path (partly still under construction).
Info Mountain & Garda Bike
Bike routes
As a biking stronghold, the routes on Lake Garda, around Torbole and Riva, are heavily frequented during the holiday periods. If you move the starting points a little, for example to Lake Ledro or the hinterland near Dro, the situation eases. The Mountain & Garda project, launched around three years ago, connects the towns directly on the shore with the areas of Valle di Ledro, Rovereto, Vallagarina, Trento, Monte Bondone and Valle dei Laghi (Valley of the Lakes), north of Arco. A large total circuit runs over 220 kilometres with around 10,000 metres of elevation gain, which can be ridden in sections. Individual tours can be supplemented with so-called "side trails".
Regions and location
To the Lake Garda main area include Riva del Garda and Torbole sul Garda/Nago as well as the neighbouring towns of Arco, Drena, Dro and Tenno. Information on accommodation is available from the tourist office, www.gardatrentino.it
The Val di Ledro is the perfect introduction to the classic Tremalzo (see tour description) and is the quieter bathing lake. Info: www.vallediledro.com
Main location of the Vallagarina is Rovereto. Instead of just driving through, you should explore the back of Monte Baldo - it's definitely worth it. www.visitrovereto.it
The Monte Bondone is criss-crossed by a network of forest paths and trails. Not all of them are authorised for bikers, but what remains is more than enough. Except in autumn, when the locals populate the forest during mushroom season, it is quiet and shady. www.discovertrento.it
The name says it all: the Valle dei LaghiThe valley of lakes begins at Lago di Cavedine, the picturesque Castel Toblino lies in the waters of the same name, and at the end, Lago di Lamar closes the valley that separates Monte Bondone from Monte Gazza. www.valledeilaghiturismo.it
Trento is the city of the Renaissance and students, and its main square, Piazza Pasi, provides the perfect stage for an introductory or farewell coffee. On Thursdays, the market is held at the cathedral, and Trento also offers plenty of other shopping opportunities, for example in the Galleria Garbari (Via Manci). There, in the covered passageway, you feel like you're in a miniature Milan. www.discovertrento.it
Events
Ziener BIKE Festival Garda Trentino powered by MINI, 29 April to 1 May 2017, Riva del Garda, riva.bike-festival.de
Bike shops
There are over 20 bike shops in the main towns of Riva, Torbole, Arco, Dro and Pietramurata, as well as several shuttle services. Most shops have bikes for hire and some offer guided tours or shuttles. More information can be found here. www.mountaingardabike.com
Accommodation
On the website www.mountaingardabike.com you can find all bike-friendly hotels in the region.
Maps
Mountain & Garda Bike Map, 1:40000, with the large loop and side trails (individual tours) is available from the tourist offices. 4Land maps: Trail-Map No. 114 Alto Garda Valle di Ledro, No. 142 Valle dei Laghi-Alto Garda, No. 144 Trento-Monte Bondone-Valle dei Laghi, No. 145 Vallagarina, No. 157 Riva-Torbole-Nago, all 1:25000. Kompass maps no. 690 Alto Garda e Ledro, no. 096 Alto Garda-Ledro-Valle del Sarche, both 1:25000. Tabacco no. 55 Valle del Sarca-Arco-Riva del Garda 1:25000
Arrival
The Valsugana can be reached in 30 minutes via the Trento exit on the Brenner motorway. In July and August, the regional train from Trento has space for 32 bikes. From Easter to September, a bus transports bikes on the Trento-Bassano route (only at weekends). The Val di Fiemme and Val di Fassa regions can be reached via the Egna/Auer exit, from there it is a 30-minute journey to Canazei. From Predazzo it is a 30-minute drive via Passo Rolle to San Martino di Castrozza, 20 minutes further on to the Primiero Valley (12 km).
Tour literature
Bike-Guides Lake Garda, No. 11 and 12, Elmar Moser, Delius Klasing Verlag. Lake Garda GPS Roadbooks, Andreas Albrecht, Books on Demand GmbH, Norderstedt. Lake Garda and Trentino, Achim Zahn, Bruckmann Verlag
All further information about the region can be found on the website: www.mountaingardabike.com
You can download the GPS data for the tours described above free of charge at the end of this article.
