Mecki's Bar in Torbole should try pulling up the blinds at half past eleven in the afternoon. That would be the end of the day for Lago bikers. Starting a day of touring without a cappuccino stop first? Not possible. At least not in Italy! Obviously it must be possible here. While I'm still looking for a board with opening times at the "Gretl am See Kiosk", Karen is tinkering with her GPS device and repeats the sentence she just said: "They really don't open until 11.30 am." And Karen should know. After all, she has been coming here to bike for years. However, she adds: "They always serve a little ice cream to go with your espresso. Maybe we'll make it after the tour." To get straight to the point: We won't make it. Because something will get in the way.
We are in Kaltern, South Tyrol. In the valley through which the Adige river and the famous wine route run. Pretty much exactly between the two top bike regions of Lake Garda and Vinschgau. In terms of the number of overnight stays by biking guests, Kaltern certainly can't compete with these two giants. In terms of scenery, however, it does: there is a small lake that is said to be the warmest bathing lake in the Alps. One side of the valley is flanked by an almost vertical rock face, the Mendelkamm, which is over 2000 metres high. On the other side, a wooded low mountain range undulates, and in the far south, a large rock towers - the 1781 metre high Trudner Horn. There is even a 113-year-old funicular railway that also transports bikes up to the Mendel Pass. I have yet to see any shuttle bus caravans, built trails, bikers wearing full-face helmets or prohibition signs.
You can find these five top tours in the Kaltern area guide:
- TOUR 1: Penegal trails (31.4 km / 796 m elevation gain / 4 h)
- TOUR 2: Cisloner Alm (53.8 km / 1492 altitude metres / 5:30 h)
- TOUR 3: Montiggler Lakes (18.8 km / 556 m elevation gain / 2:30 h)
- TOUR 4: Monte Roen (36.2 km / 1333 hm / 5 h)
- TOUR 5: Eppan High Trail (54.6 km / 1415 m altitude difference / 5 h)
The GPS data of the first three tours can be found in the download area below this article. download free of charge. The GPS data for tours 4 and 5 can be found here: www.traminerhof.it
"Shall we start?" Karen has sorted the tracks on her GPS device and we're ready to go. The Montiggl Lakes are on the agenda today. A short roll-in lap in the aforementioned low mountain range. The BIKE-Transalp has already passed through here several times, and the participants have always been thrilled by the rollercoaster-like feeling on the trails. Today, Karen wants to find a new route with as many flow trails as possible. As the sports director of the BIKE Women Camp, she is constantly on the lookout for trails that will be fun to ride for the participants in September, rather than causing anxiety attacks. We ride halfway round Lake Kaltern, climb up a vineyard and disappear into the forest after just a few minutes. The gravel track leads us through the "Spring Valley". Due to special climatic currents, the spring buds are said to sprout much earlier here than in the rest of the region. Now, in June, we are cycling through the thickest greenery. So green that orientation soon becomes difficult. Paths and tracks branch off again and again, not always with directional signs. Difficult when the destination is not a place, but the paths to get there. Karen is happy to trust the GPS and map, but she has more faith in her own legs. "Hang on, I'll try out the trail quickly." Only when she is visibly satisfied with the combination of trails do we head for the smaller of the two Montiggl lakes. Because it's supposedly much more idyllic than the big one. That's right. The small lake lies like a blue pearl in the middle of a nature conservation thicket. No road, no car park. Our path leads to the only bathing meadow with a small bar. Finally, a cappuccino!
The way back is clear. Karen's GPS device already knows the most flowing route back from last year. But then suddenly there's a no biking sign. It's small, made of wood and somehow looks friendlier than the tin ones that usually shout at you. For that reason alone, you don't want to ignore it. So I get out the map again and look for a bypass. Suddenly it gets dark. There's lightning, thunder - and it starts to pour. The dense forest of leaves keeps us halfway dry until it starts to pour. On the last flow trail, we are washed down to Kaltern in the mud. Matthias, our hotel landlord in the house on the slope, thankfully has to laugh when he sees us. "You should set off early tomorrow if you want to go up the Penegal. Thunderstorms are forecast again for the afternoon." Matthias is not a biker himself, but every year he makes his lakeside property available for the BIKE Women Camp. Otherwise, only his hotel guests get to enjoy this bathing meadow on Lake Kaltern with its willow trees, jetty and small bar with sun terrace.
The summit of the Penegal lies in the centre of the Mendelkamm. You can recognise it from the valley by its transmission masts. Due to the forecast thunderstorm, we don't take the Mendel Pass road up, but buy a ticket for the Mendel cable car. "That's what we do during the camp," says Karen. "Because it's still quite a climb to the Penegal."
Once we reach the top of the Mendel Pass, we discover a nice bar with a typical Italian café counter in the funicular railway building. "Still closed!" Karen calls over her shoulder. Sure, it's only half past nine. We're just crossing the border into Trentino here on the Mendel Pass. This is actually the more Italian part of Italy. We roll along the main road past ornate villas from times long past. It's easy to imagine that this was once a fashionable place where even the Empress Sissi came to breathe in the fresh mountain air. Today, it is mainly motorcyclists who rattle through here on their way to the Non Valley. We are still 360 metres short of the summit. But shortly before that, we crank up to a concrete block: the Panoramahotel Penegal. As remote as it is, it could easily serve as the backdrop for a second instalment of Stanley Kubrick's horror classic Shining. "Let's go inside!" Karen obviously hasn't seen the film with Jack Nicholson. We cross a carpeted room with a fireplace and step through a glass door onto a large terrace. The café tables are unoccupied today, but the view extends from Bolzano over the Dolomites, Lake Kaltern and far into the Adige Valley. And the thunderstorm is already pressing in the air. So let's move on quickly: trail marker 500 leads us down a stony forest path to the left shortly after the summit. Then a flat, gentle ribbon of earth determines the course. Embedded in the alpine grass, it curves through a sparse larch forest. Right round, left round - some bends even have small berms. We should actually take a photo of this fairytale trail, but none of us want to interrupt the flow. A transverse gravel road then puts a stop to the fun. A super trail!
Karen digs her map out of her rucksack and scribbles an exclamation mark next to the trail with a pen. So, now left down the gravel road. Karen points to two exclamation marks already noted on the map. We could turn right here, but there's a really tough trail through the steep face of the Mendelkamm. Not for us, because we're looking for flow. Just as we turn onto the last exclamation mark, it gets dark again. A curtain of rain sweeps us back to the Mendel Pass, where we seek shelter in a café.
"The 500? Yes, it's built." We stare at Armin in bewilderment. Who builds trails here? The landlord of the Hotel Traminer Hof shrugs his shoulders and continues to tap beer for his guests for dinner. "Just some guys." Rubbish, they must have been masters! And who builds flow trails like this hidden in the countryside? Armin just shrugs his shoulders. But he certainly knows more. After all, he has been the valley's mountain bike expert since 1993. There isn't a trail on the Wine Route that he and his son Andreas haven't measured with GPS. Armin has even had a trail map printed for his guests, although he offers daily guided tours anyway. Even now, in the off-season, this brings him a full house. Another group of hardtail riders from Starnberg is about to check in. Meanwhile, Grandma takes over the work at the tap. When Armin returns to our table, he has already loaded the tour for tomorrow onto our GPS device. Cisloner Alm, but not the tough 1-metre trail down the front, but the easier paths over the waterfall and horse meadow at the back. A glass of Gewürztraminer later, Karen dares to make a comparison: "The biking area around Kaltern is actually much more varied than the Vinschgau next door, isn't it?" Armin shrugs his shoulders again: "I don't know, I've never been biking in Val Venosta/Vinschgau." But now the vegetable lasagne falls off our forks. "No, I've never been bored on our trails. Then why should I be in Val Venosta/Vinschgau?"
The next day, the sun is still shining as we wind down the last bends of the Horse Meadow Trail. No thunderstorms in sight. That could mean - yes, that's right! - the Gretl-am-See kiosk is open. Around 20 mountain bikes are leaning against the wooden fence and we just manage to grab a table. You can actually sit here in the middle of the large car park without a view of the lake, just as unidyllic as in the Mecki bar on Lake Garda. But there are places that simply have a magical attraction for us bikers.
THE KALTERN SCENE
The range of restaurants and wine cellars in the famous town on the Wine Route is naturally huge. That's why we asked Karen Eller for her favourite places:
Gretl-am-See-Kiosk
A good, central starting point for tours and "the place to be" for après-bikes. Although the modern kiosk is somewhat unromantically located at the large car park by the lake, it is still something like the Mecki Bar of Kaltern. The blinds are raised here from 11.30 am. Then there are small snacks and Aperol Sprizz. A small, delicious soft ice cream is served with the espresso, and every now and then there is a party here with a DJ. www.gretlamsee.com
Bar at the Mendelbahn
Immediately after getting off the Mendel cable car, you can enjoy a very good espresso in the old, iconic bar at the pass.
Panorama Hotel Penegal
From the Mendelbahn cable car, you climb another 350 metres up the asphalt road to Penegal and suddenly find yourself in front of the hotel of the same name. At first glance, the building is reminiscent of the hotel from the film Shining. But what you can't see from the front: There is a large terrace at the back with probably the most beautiful view of the entire Adige Valley, and the apple strudel is also delicious. Penegal 8, Mendel Pass, tel. 0039/0471/200769, www.penegal.com
Sea pearl
Arthur von der Seeperle is also known as the "crazy" winemaker from Lake Kaltern. His white wines are called "Echt geil", "Knackig" or "Scharf" and his red wines "Seitensprung" or "Rotlicht". It's always great fun to stop by for a glass of white wine after a bike tour. His bar is located directly on the wine route. St. Josef am See 28, Kaltern, tel. 0039/0471/960158, www.seeperle.com
Villa Raßlhof and Gamper Keller
In this winery with wine tavern, you can taste a glass of Kalterer See in a very original way while sitting in a huge old wine barrel, including wine stone on the walls. Alexander-von-Keller-Weg 11, Tramin,
Tel. 0039/0471/861222, www.buschenschank.it
Dominikus Winery
The Dominikus wine cellar is an original. The estate owner's father, Dominikus Morandell, once dug the rustic vault under his vineyard himself. Wine tasting with lake view, Tue. and Fri. at 5 pm cellar tour. St. Josef am See 39, Kaltern, Tel. 0039/0471/960576, www.dominikus.it
Castel Sallegg
Just above the village centre, but still in the middle of Kaltern, sits Sallegg Castle with its age-old wine tradition. The wine tastings take place in the beautiful courtyard between orange and lemon trees. Unterwinkel 15, Kaltern, tel. 0039/0471/963132, www.castelsallegg.it
Pizzeria Geier
The Geier pizzeria with its lake view terrace is right on the footpath around the lake. The pizza is delicious, as are the meat and salads. St. Josef am See 12, Kaltern, tel. 0039/0471/960156, www.kalterersee.com/geier
Kalterer Hof
Also delicious pizza and typical South Tyrolean and Trentino dishes right in the old town centre, Via dell'Oro 23, tel. 0039/0471/964343, www.kaltererhof.eu
Golden Star
Gluten-free pizza from the wood-fired oven! The Goldener Stern restaurant is an original place where even the locals like to go for a meal. My favourite is the pizza with kamut dough. Andreas Hofer-Str. 20, Kaltern, tel. 0039/0471/962696, www.goldenersternkaltern.it
Seehofkeller
My favourite restaurant on Lake Kaltern. Great for romantic dinners for two. You sit on the terrace by candlelight with a view over the vineyards and the lake. If you get on really well, you can share the Fiorentina steak. (six centimetres thick and weighing up to one kilo!), St. Josef am See 60, Kaltern, Tel. 0039/0471/960020, www.seehofkeller.com
Lexnhof
At the end of the descent from the Cisloner Alm tour, you pass this rustic farm in Montan. The view from the wooden terrace stretches far over the Adige Valley, and the menu includes homemade bread made from hemp flour and Schupfnudeln made from cannabis flour. The landlady herself is also a bit crazy. Holiday flats too! Glenerweg 24, tel. 0039/0471/960563, www.lexnhof.it
Ice cream food
There are two ice cream parlours in the region that are lovingly run, have delicious ice cream and are located directly on tour routes: Eiscafè Trude in the north of Kaltern on the main road, Bahnhofstr. 9, Kaltern, www.cafetrude.com and the ice cream parlour in the centre of Neumarkt. If you take the Cisloner Alm tour, you will end up in Neumarkt. The short detour left into the centre is worthwhile!
INFORMATION KALTERN AM SEE
The precinct
Kaltern an der Weinstraße lies at an altitude of 425 metres. The touring area also includes the neighbouring villages of Appiano and Termeno. With the 2116 metre high Mendelkamm on one side of the valley and the 1781 metre high Trudner Horn as well as the Mitterberg, which is not quite 700 metres high, the area offers a variety of touring options. The many easy trails in particular make the area interesting for trail beginners. But there are also descents that can be categorised as very to extremely sporty.
Arrival
Take the Brenner motorway to the Bozen-Süd exit and continue along the signposted wine road to Kaltern. Or take the motorway exit "Neumarkt, Auer, Tramin" and then follow the wine road to Kaltern. From Munich 295 km, journey time 3 hours.
Maps and tour information
Tabacco map "South Tyrol - Strada de Vino", No. 049, scale 1:25000.
GPS tours: Under www.kaltern.com you can download the GPS data for the classic tours. A tour map with all the marked trail tours is available at Traminer Hof, www.traminerhof.com
Guided tours Bike guide Roland Zozin offers guided tours once a week, as well as riding technique training. Meeting point at the Kaltern tourist office. Information on the planned season programme and registration: www.kaltern.com
If you would like to join Armin Pomella's daily guided tours at the Traminer Hof (also possible as a non-hotel guest): Info www.traminerhof.com
Accommodation
Due to its Törggelen tradition alone, there is accommodation for every taste and budget throughout the valley. We stayed at the centrally located Haus am Hang, which we can highly recommend in terms of friendliness and cuisine (!). www.hausamhang.it
THE bike hotel in the region, however, is the Traminer Hof in neighbouring Tramin, www.traminerhof.it
General information
All information on other events and accommodation: Kaltern am See tourist office, tel. 0039/0471/963169, www.kaltern.com
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Gitta Beimfohr
Editor
