Upper FranconiaThe 3 best trail tours from Lichtenfels

Julia Hofmann

 · 13.03.2024

When the Upper Main Valley is still sleeping under fog, the trail mountains of Lichtenfels are already heated by the sun.
Photo: Philipp Herfort
Imagine you come to visit the forests of your youth and a designated trail network for bikers has been created there. This is exactly what happened to author Julia Hofmann in her Upper Franconian home town of Lichtenfels.

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The district town of Lichtenfels is located on the upper reaches of the River Main, around 20 kilometres south of Coburg, in Upper Franconia in Bavaria. Known as the "German Basket Town", the town is surrounded by a ring of gentle hills such as Hohe Eller, Krappenberg and Banzer Berg. Behind them rise the larger low mountain ranges of the Franconian Alb, Fichtelgebirge and Franconian Forest. Since 2021, the locals in their local mountains around Lichtenfels have been allowed to cut out old hiking trails and designate them as mountain bike trails. Here are the 3 most exciting trail routes:

Tour 1: Great Jura Tour

Blue, red, black: on the Krappenberg you can choose the level of difficulty and change between them.Photo: Philipp HerfortBlue, red, black: on the Krappenberg you can choose the level of difficulty and change between them.
  • Length: 35.2 kilometres
  • Uphill: 788 metres in altitude
  • Duration: 3 hours
  • Difficulty: medium
First surf the trails on the Krappenberg, then take a long loop over the Staffelberg.Photo: BIKE MagazinFirst surf the trails on the Krappenberg, then take a long loop over the Staffelberg.

Tour description:

The sightseeing tour of the region: At the Friedenslinde, turn left up to the Prälatenweg. Once you reach the summit of the Krappenberg, you are free to choose the difficulty level of the downhill trail again.

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Down in Klosterlangheim, the tour follows the forest and woodland paths to Roth and crosses the small village. Via Isling, the route climbs steadily through beautiful sections of moss-covered forest. Then continue with a winding descent via Altendorf to Lahm.

In the centre of Lahm, the route branches off to the left towards Serkendorf. The initially narrow tarmac road soon becomes a gravel path and leads gently up and down through fields and past the Hohle Stein. Here it is not far to the climbing paradise on the Kemitzenstein. After a long descent on gravel, a nice café with the best coffee awaits you in Serkendorf. It's best to have a piece of cake to fortify yourself, as the following ascent around the Alter Staffelberg is quite steep at the beginning. But then a mountain road leads flat and with great views to the Vierzehnheiligen basilica. Afterwards, take the cycle path directly or the Holy Trail back to Lichtenfels.

Starting point: Swimming pool car park near Friedenslinde

Highlights: The undisputed star of this long loop is the Holy Trail with its length of 1.4 kilometres. But you also have to see the Vierzehnheiligen Basilica up close.

Key points: Depending on which descent you take from the Krappenberg. The black line has quite sporty elements (drop).

Retreat: The Café Mühlendorf Dinkel in Serkendorf and the Trunk brewery at the basilica.

Tour 2: Banzer Berg

In autumn, the otherwise dense foliage on Banzer Berg becomes a little lighter. Then you can recognise the many details of the trails better.Photo: Philipp HerfortIn autumn, the otherwise dense foliage on Banzer Berg becomes a little lighter. Then you can recognise the many details of the trails better.
  • Length: 27.6 kilometres
  • Uphill: 533 metres in altitude
  • Duration: 2.5 hours
  • Difficulty: medium
The newly shaped Karlspfad trail awaits on the Banzberg or Banzer Berg.Photo: BIKE MagazinThe newly shaped Karlspfad trail awaits on the Banzberg or Banzer Berg.

Tour description:

The tour starts with a crisp gravel climb past the transmission mast, then turn left onto the forest path towards the viewing tower. Here, a beautiful forest path leads down to the Werdenfelser, where you can enjoy the view of the Main valley. Follow the agricultural tracks down to Köstner Gründla and along the stream on a narrow forest path to the old mill in Schönsreuth! A steep meadow path climbs up to this beautiful village. A forest path then leads over the motorway, deep into the Stiftsland (as the villages here are called) and soon up through the Banzer Forest. The Karlspfad trail finally starts at the large Rote Marter crossroads. This is a constructed single trail that curves hard along the slope and can be a little slippery at the end. At the bottom, take the gravel road up to the climbing garden, where you are rewarded with a great view of the basilica and across the Main valley. A beautiful avenue takes you to the church, then past a small cemetery down the Banzberg to Unnersdorf. It's worth stopping for a bite to eat there, as the last few kilometres back to Lichtenfels are flat and easy via Reundorf along the Main.

Starting point: Parking at the Schützenplatz in Lichtenfels or at the top of the Herberg on the hiking car park

Highlights: The newly extended Karlspfad, the village of Schönsreuth, the view and the avenue at the climbing garden.

Key points: The Karlspfad contains a few surprising ramps. A little slippery at the end!

Retreat: Gasthof Anker in Unnersdorf.

Tour 3: Krappenberg circuit

There are three lines on the Krappenberg that cross each other again and again: You can weave your own fun together.Photo: Philipp HerfortThere are three lines on the Krappenberg that cross each other again and again: You can weave your own fun together.
  • Length: 15.6 kilometres
  • Uphill: 480 metres in altitude
  • Duration: 1.5 hours
  • Difficulty: medium
The small Krappenberg loop but with Holy Trail down to Klosterlangheim.Photo: BIKE MagazinThe small Krappenberg loop but with Holy Trail down to Klosterlangheim.

Tour description:

From the car park on the gravel path to Friedenslinde. Turn left onto an increasingly narrow forest path that climbs ever steeper. At the end, the path even narrows to the width of a path, so technical riding skills are an advantage. Especially when the many roots are still wet from rain or fog. But after 150 metres in altitude, the summit of the Krappenberg (441 m) is reached and the entrance to the three approved downhill trails is reached. Saddle down, step on the gas! But be careful, no matter which line you choose: you have to be prepared for slippery roots and technical stone fields!

Then it's back up the mountain, this time to Eisernen Hand, where you turn off onto the singletrail to Klosterlangheim. After this long hairpin bend, it's worth stopping for a bite to eat in Klosterlangheim, as this is probably the meanest ascent in the entire region: at first, the gravel road is still moderate, but then it gets really steep. At the Weißes Kreuz, you think you've made it, but that's where it really starts. Until you finally reach the start of the second newly built trail. A feast! Here, too, you can choose between two difficulty levels.

Starting point: Swimming pool car park near Friedenslinde.

Highlights: All trail descents on this short after-work tour.

Key points: Although the trails have been cleared and some play elements have been added, natural forest obstacles such as roots and stone fields are to be expected even on the easiest line. Beware, very slippery when wet!

Retreat: In Klosterlangheim or back in Lichtenfels at the Braumanufaktur, braumanufaktur-lippert.de

The "Gottesgarten" with the three new trail laps of Lichtenfels.Photo: Karin Kunkel-JarversThe "Gottesgarten" with the three new trail laps of Lichtenfels.

GPS data for the Lichtenfels MTB area

Info Lichtenfels

The small district town of Lichtenfels hosts a braiding festival in autumn and the Franconian Bike Marathon for the 25th time in summer.Photo: Philipp HerfortThe small district town of Lichtenfels hosts a braiding festival in autumn and the Franconian Bike Marathon for the 25th time in summer.

The precinct: Lichtenfels is located on the upper reaches of the River Main, around 20 kilometres south of Coburg, in Upper Franconia in Bavaria. Known as the "German Basket Town", the town is surrounded by a ring of gentle hills such as Hohe Eller, Krappenberg and Banzer Berg. Behind them rise the larger low mountain ranges of the Franconian Alb, Fichtelgebirge and Franconian Forest. Since 2021, the locals have been allowed to clear old hiking trails in their local mountains around Lichtenfels and designate them as mountain bike trails. The members of the RVC Trieb association are responsible for the maintenance and upkeep of the trails. Info: rvc-trieb.de

Overnight stay: Lichtenfels is not large, but has a colourful tourist infrastructure in the district:

  • Three camping pitches on an alpaca farm in Schwürbitz, maintal-alpakas.de
  • Maincamping Oberwallenstadt, directly on the banks of the Main and the Ortswiesensee, obermain-jura.de
  • Stadthotel Lichtenfels, three-star hotel, Bamberger Str. 30 in Lichtenfels, Info: stadthotel-lichtenfels.de
  • Hotel Krone, modern hotel, Robert-Koch-Str. 11, Lichtenfels, kreier-gastro.de

Bike shops: Mr Bike Lichtenfels, from children's bikes to enduro bikes and a professional bike wash service: mr-bike.com

Open Road Bikes, well-stocked shop with workshop use for self-tinkering in Ebensfeld, openroadbike.com

Events: Franconian Bike Marathon: The long-distance classic celebrates its 25th anniversary this year and also determines the Bavarian champions! There are three different laps to choose from (30 km/500 m, 50 km/1400 m and 90 km/2400 m). Date: 16 June, frankenbikemarathon.de

Enduro One: Lichtenfels is once again the venue for the Enduro1 series. All information, also about the other stations: enduro-one.com

All dates for Enduro One 2024:

13.04. / 14.04. Bad Wildbad
14.06. / 15.06. Trieb
29/06 / 30/06 Roßbach
20.07. / 21.07. Schulenberg
31 August / 1 September Rabenberg
05.10. / 06.10. Eifa

Marc Kober also offers guided tours several times a year.Photo: Philipp HerfortMarc Kober also offers guided tours several times a year.

Guided tours: Marc Kober from RVC Trieb offers guided tours around Lichtenfels, for example under the motto "Bike & Fish" or "Bike, Beer & Grill". Dates and registration: vhs-lif.de

Food and drink:

  • Gastwirtschaft zum Anker in Unnersdorf, game from the local forest, ankerkanu.de
  • Rossini restaurant in Lichtenfels: pizza from the stone oven, kreier-gastro.de/ristorante-rossini
The Braumanufaktur used to be a car repair shop. Today it's the bikers' meeting point after the tour.Photo: Philipp HerfortThe Braumanufaktur used to be a car repair shop. Today it's the bikers' meeting point after the tour.
  • Bräustübla Staffelbergbräu in Loffeld, homemade Franconian sausages with sauerkraut and wood-fired bread, bierland-franken.de
  • Ajo steak and game in Bad Staffelstein, restaurant-ajo.de
  • Best snack in Lichtenfels: braumanufaktur-lippert.de

General information: lichtenfels.de

Lichtenfels district highlights

Climbing on the Kemitzenstein: The Kemitzenstein is a collection of boulders on a meadow. It was probably once a mystical place of worship. Today, children and via ferrata beginners can also climb the easy route. Access: There is a car park in the forest on the signposted road to the Kemitzenstein, frankenjura.com

River tour on the Main: Just drift along and enjoy the scenery: Hire addresses (guided tours with return shuttle can also be booked) for kayaks, canoes, inflatable boats or SUPs can be found at flussparadies-franken.de

Basket market: The traditional Braiding Culture Festival will take place in Lichtenfels from 13 to 15 September. Exhibitors from all over Europe show what is currently possible in wickerwork, korbmarkt.de

Great fun even for the little ones: the new pump track in Bad Staffelstein.Photo: Philipp HerfortGreat fun even for the little ones: the new pump track in Bad Staffelstein.

Pump track in Bad Staffelstein: Open since September: 1350 square metres of asphalted, fun course at the Schützenplatz in Bad Staffelstein.

Thermal baths in Bad Staffelstein: A total of 25 indoor and outdoor saltwater pools, plus a large sauna area. Perfect for regeneration. obermaintherme.de

BIKE Report: Main home game

Wisps of mist waft through the gnarled old tree trunks, hardly a ray of light makes it through the dense canopy of leaves above our heads. Instead, the damp cold creeps up our legs from the forest floor. But that doesn't matter. "It's about to get warmer," I could shout to my three companions. But that would take away the element of surprise that I've always loved so much. So we continue up the steep gravel road through this dark, mystical forest. All we can hear is our steady breathing and the rustling of leaves under our tyres.

The Obermain creates an almost alpine atmosphere in autumn.Photo: Philipp HerfortThe Obermain creates an almost alpine atmosphere in autumn.

50 locals were allowed to dig their own paradise

We want to spend four days in my old home town on the Obermain to ride the newly created trails that I don't yet know myself. With me: Holger Feist, Daniel Schaefer and Philipp Herford. The district of Lichtenfels is actually known for its good beers, the thermal baths in Bad Staffelstein and as the "German basket town". But for a good two years now, the region has also been one of the best single trail destinations in the German low mountain range.

Another turn of the crank and another. Slowly, the fog and canopy of leaves clear - until we suddenly find ourselves under a blue sky. The sun suddenly heats up our skin and below us we look out over a vast sea of clouds. Welcome to my old home! How often have I stood up here above the clouds, in the sun, while the Main valley below is still fast asleep under its blanket of mist. Only the towers of Banz Abbey, Vierzehnheiligen and the summit of Staffelberg peek out of the clouds and now shine with us in this very special sunlight. "Why don't you come by again? You'll love our newly built trails!" wrote Marc Kober. I remember him from my youth, we grew up in the same village. Today, Marc is the mountain bike representative for the district of Lichtenfels. Together with 50 other bikers from the region, he has now created a real trail network in the hilly landscape around Lichtenfels. With the blessing of all the necessary authorities. I've even spotted signposts on our ascent. I am so excited. I should still know most of these trails, but Marc said that they've added a lot more riding fun with shovels.

The RVC Trieb can't complain about a lack of motivated members.Photo: Philipp HerfortThe RVC Trieb can't complain about a lack of motivated members.

A sign on the Banzberg "admonishes" trail tolerance

We meet Marc at the top of the Banzberg. The joy of seeing him again is great. Just like back then, we cycle through the old avenue of lime trees at Banz Monastery. In the meantime, the cloud cover has disappeared into thin air. We can now see the Egg Mountains arching out of the flat plain. We pass the forest climbing garden and then enter the Banzer Forest. A large "Trail Tolerance" sign tells us from afar that we are on the trail of the first new trail. This is where the old Karlspfad trail has been converted into a flow trail. It bobs gently through the flanks of the Banzberg, takes a long bend, then a small jump, then soft forest floor again. In this rhythm, we whizz down to Altenbanz almost root-free. Perfect for an almost forgotten hiking trail, which was quite bumpy and overgrown back then. "Now for a proper Franconian snack?" grins Marc as we crank back along the Main to Lichtenfels. Of course!

A beer at the finish line in the old garage

For years, the locals have been meeting here in the centre of town for a beer after the tour. A hobby brewer has realised his dream and opened his own brewery in a former car repair shop. Surrounded by huge stainless steel kettles, we are served white cheese, liverwurst and all kinds of pressed sausages. Then I can hardly wait to experience the new trails on the Krappenberg. The mountain is just five kilometres away as the crow flies on the other side of the river and yet has a completely different character.

Instead of beech forests and rustling leaves, we are greeted by conifers with moss-covered trunks. The mountain's flanks have been carved out of Räth sandstone since the Middle Ages. Back then, to build the houses of Lichtenfels and even in the 20th century for the rebuilding of the basilica of Vierzehnheiligen. A quarry landscape that trail builders can utilise today.

The Krappenberg was a quarry for a long time. Today it is home to three exciting trails.Photo: Philipp HerfortThe Krappenberg was a quarry for a long time. Today it is home to three exciting trails.

Three trails on the Krappenberg

They have carved out three trails of varying degrees of difficulty on the mountain south-east of the town centre of Lichtenfels. As soon as you roll in, you can feel the passion with which the lines were honed here: Curve, curve, jump, curve... I try my hardest to stay on Daniel's rear tyre, but by the second bend all I can see is his fountain of dust. The three trails intersect again and again and we can decide anew whether we prefer roots, technical bends and small jumps or whether we'd rather turn off onto the steep descent with a moss-covered stone field and rock drop. We chase through the coniferous forest, root edges invite us to jump off again and again and small berms give the trail its very special flavour.

The next morning, we set off on a ride into the Obermain Jura from the gnarled Friedenslinde tree. The narrow prelate's path leads us along the slope to the Iron Hand, an old metal signpost pointing us in the direction of Klosterlangheim. There we enter the Upper Franconian Jura. We pass beautiful little villages with half-timbered houses and quaint inns. A short coffee stop in Serkendorf and on to the basilica in Vierzehnheiligen. We pedal along so relaxed that I almost forget why we are actually here.

The Holy Trail at the basilica

"Here comes our newest trail," Marc snaps us out of our sightseeing mode. The "Holy Trail" has only just been opened and still feels correspondingly soft. Loose fields of limestone greet us at the start and make the 1.5 kilometre trail exciting time and again. Here, too, we can choose between two parallel routes. One line contains jumps and other obstacles - this keeps the adrenaline level at a pleasantly constant level. If, on the other hand, you branch off onto the other descent, you can just let it run its course. This only plays with the terrain and there is plenty of it, as streams have repeatedly carved their way into the mountain flanks. Small V-notches that provide momentum for the next bend with a berm.

The Holy Trail was still fresh in autumn and the ground was therefore soft.Photo: Philipp HerfortThe Holy Trail was still fresh in autumn and the ground was therefore soft.

A surfing experience similar to the fourth highlight of the region, which we reach in the late afternoon of the day: the new pump track at the foot of the Staffelberg in Bad Staffelstein. While the other three are still doing lap after lap and burning off the last of their energy, I think about the place from my childhood that I really want to go to tomorrow. And then it hits me: the Staffelberg! From up there, you have the most beautiful view over the "Garden of God", as the Upper Main Valley is affectionately known.

This area with its very special light, its special people and now also its very special trails will always be a place close to my heart.

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