Short trip Fischland-Darß-Zingst: 2 cycle tours between the Baltic Sea and the Bodden
Sven Bremer
· 15.11.2023
Sylva Juhnke knows almost everything about her home, the Fischland-Darß-Zingst peninsula and the Vorpommersche Boddenlandschaft National Park. Everything about the dunes and the 45-kilometre-long white Baltic Sea beach, about the up to 70,000 cranes that rest on the white dune fields at Pramort in autumn. About the Darßer Ort and the forest there, where wild boar and foxes roam. And about the deer that not only roam the dunes during the mating season, but sometimes even on the beach. Mrs Juhnke knows the bird calls and every herb along the way. And she also knows what aches and pains they are good for - in case you get bitten by midges in the Zingster Osterwald forest or your bum hurts from cycling.
We are on a guided cycle tour with the resolute and knowledgeable lady to the Großer Kirr, a designated European bird sanctuary and one of the most important breeding areas on the German Baltic coast for native marsh and water birds. When Mrs Juhnke learns that we are writing an article for a cycling magazine, she pulls her wide-brimmed leather hat even lower on her forehead, looks sternly and asks: "You don't want to attract any more cyclists here, do you?" As an employee of Kur- und Tourismus GmbH in Zingst, she probably shouldn't say something like that, but it just burst out of her. But firstly, you can understand her reaction if you've ever cycled on the sea dyke in summer; it's like rush hour on the A7 motorway before the Elbe tunnel. And secondly, Sylva Juhnke really loves her island. But she loves the fantastic natural landscape between the Baltic Sea and the Bodden rather than the mass tourism that has long since arrived in Zingst.
Cycle tour: beaches, lagoons and nature
The lighthouse at Darßer Ort, the intermediate destination of our first tour, is rather tranquil. Built in 1848 and still in operation, it rises 35 metres into the sky. On a clear day, you can even see the chalk cliffs on the Danish island of Møn from its viewing platform. It is only a few metres from the lighthouse to the west beach; it is the most unspoilt, wildest beach on the peninsula and has been voted one of the top ten most beautiful beaches in Europe several times. We didn't see any deer on the beach, but during a rest in the shade of the lighthouse we did see a black adder slithering through the undergrowth just a good metre behind us.
We think that having adders within reach is a good signal to continue cycling. So we roll on via Ahrenshoop and take stock: they really do a lot for cyclists on Fischland-Darß-Zingst. The regional bus transports bikes in trailers, you can also take bikes on the ferries, bike hire companies are a dime a dozen, there are plenty of bike racks available, the only problem is the signposting.
Thanks to Komoot on our smartphone, we can manage without signs and enjoy one of Sylva Juhnke's favourite routes. From Ahrenshoop, we cycle along the Bodden via Born to Wieck. The water glistens like a disco ball and a few birds glide elegantly towards the mainland. We can only guess; greylag geese perhaps? Mrs Juhnke would definitely know. After our enthusiasm for the main town of Zingst was limited, we are rewarded with Born. There are still plenty of thatched houses here, complete with pretty cottage gardens. And here you can still find many of the famous Darß doors, made according to old craftsmanship and decorated with ornaments.
Where the cranes rest
Even at Pramort, the intermediate destination of the second tour, things are still relatively tranquil in June. It only becomes a real spectacle here when up to 70,000 cranes take a rest in the white dune fields and fly in special formations. On the guided tour to the Great Krill, we learnt a bit from Mrs Juhnke about the so-called limicoles, also known as plovers or waders. And we imagine we recognise an avocet on the Pramort. But we wouldn't bet on it. From the far east of the peninsula, we head to the Bodden and finally to the mainland in Barth, where we take the ferry. And while the steamer chugs leisurely towards Zingst, we see a sea eagle soaring majestically over the Bodden. And we recognised it even without Mrs Juhnke's expertise.
GPS data and tour descriptions for the Fischland-Darß-Zingst short trip
Tour 1: Cycle tour to the west beach
57.5 km, 110 m elevation gain, max. gradient 1 %
Surface: The finest tarmac alternates with gravel that is easy to cycle on, with cobblestones and a well-maintained extra lane for cyclists in some of the villages.
Start at the Kurhaus in Zingst, on the 1-A asphalted sea dyke towards Prerow and from there through the forest. A detour to the Darßer Ort lighthouse, if you have the time and inclination, go for a swim on the west beach or pay a visit to the Natureum. From Ahrenshoop on Fischland, the route follows a kind of causeway along the Bodden back to the Darß, through pretty Born with its numerous original Darß doors to Wieck. Small paths branch off again and again, leading to cosy spots directly on the Bodden. From Wieck, return to Zingst via Prerow on a section of the Baltic Sea Coast Cycle Route.
The GPS data for tour 1 you can download here for free or find them in the MYBIKE Collection on komoot
Tour 2: Pramort and National Park
53.7 km, 90 m elevation gain, max. gradient: 1 %
Surface: Alternating between tarmac and firm gravel
From the Kurhaus Zingst in an easterly direction, past the small castle Sundische Wiese to the Pramort, the Viewpoint on FDZ when the cranes arrive. If you want to enjoy the view from the Hohe Düne viewing platform, you have to leave your bike and walk two kilometres, as the area is part of the core zone of the national park. On the way back, turn off at Sundische Wiese in the direction of the Bodden, pass Zingst harbour and continue towards Barth. From there, take the ferry back to Zingst. Attention: Last trip in the main season at 4.30 pm, otherwise 4 pm.
The GPS data for tour 2 you can download here for free or find them in the MYBIKE Collection on komoot
Information for a cycle trip to Fischland-Darß-Zingst
Arrival
Car: Take the A 20 motorway towards Rostock and Stralsund and then the B 105 to Ribnitz-Damgarten. From there, continue to Zingst either via Ahrenshoop or in the direction of Barth (both on the L 21). From Berlin or from the eastern federal states, you can either take the A19 motorway via Rostock (A24/A19) or via Stralsund (A11/A20)
Train and bus: Unfortunately complicated and time-consuming. If you want to travel to Ribnitz-Damgarten or Barth by local train, you have to change trains several times from Hamburg, for example. Travelling by ICE train to Ribnitz-Damgarten is quite quick, but then the regional bus 210 (with bikes on board in the high season) takes almost three quarters of an hour to Zingst. At FDZ, they are therefore dreaming of reactivating the Darßbahn railway, although this will take at least until 2030. A nice alternative is to take the ferry from Barth to Zingst. Info: https://reederei-poschke.de
Flixbus: April to September directly from Berlin to Zingst (bike transport possible, e-bikes are not transported).
Best time to travel
In the high season, the Baltic seaside resorts are bursting at the seams. The months of May and June and September are recommended for cyclists. If you want to watch the thousands and thousands of cranes, you can arrive in March when the birds come to rest in spring. However, the main season for amateur ornithologists is autumn from the end of September to the beginning of November.
Accommodation
House 54Hanshägerstr. 3 a, 18374 Zingst, www.haus54.de
Bicycle-friendly hostel (Bett+Bike seal) on a former military site, colourful outside, modern inside with the service of a three-star hotel.
Double room from 65 euros.
Otherwise, the offer of 16,000 Holiday homes or holiday flats everyone can find something suitable on FDZ. To book via www.fischland-darss-zingst.de
Bike service
It feels like there are hundreds of bike hire outlets on the island. Pedal Power alone has three branches in Zingst and three in Prerow. At the station below the Kurhaus in Zingst, the Pedal Power guys are super friendly and knowledgeable. The equipment is absolutely fine and the prices are fair: you pay 25 euros a day for the various e-bike models, and if you hire for a week, you can hire for seven days and only pay for five. www.fahrradverleih-fdz.de
E-bike charging stations There are none on FDZ, but if you ask nicely, you can recharge at the numerous hire shops if the battery is empty.
Places of interest on Fischland-Darss-Zingst
Ahrenshoop is not only a seaside resort, but has also been an artists' colony for around 125 years. More than 800 exhibits can be seen in the art museum, which opened in 2013: Works from the founding generation, but also works by contemporary artists from the region. Information at www.kunstmuseum-ahrenshoop.de
Back in 1909, the two founders of the artists' colony, Paul Müller-Kaempff and Theobald Schorn, opened a gallery in Ahrenshoop, which still exists today. www.kunstkaten.de
The Main town Zingst has been dedicated to photography for years. The highlight of the numerous events and exhibitions is the environmental photography festival "horizonte zingst", which took place for the 16th time in 2023.
Information at www.fischland-darss-zingst.de/aktivitaeten/kunst-und-kultur/fotografie/
In the Nature centre at Darßer Ort you can find out everything worth knowing about the Darßer Ort natural area, the fauna of the Darß and the special coastal dynamics in the region www.natureum-darss.de
Every Wednesday (10 a.m. - 2 p.m.), the guided cycle tour takes you to the Kirr bird sanctuary island, which is not accessible without a guide. Very popular, so book in good time via Kur- und Tourismus GmbH.
Food
From A to Z, from eel to zander, the peninsula serves up everything the Baltic Sea and Bodden have to offer - fried, grilled, baked, deep-fried, stewed and boiled. Everything is delicious, but above all you should try one of the smoked fish specialities. Insider tip from the "locals": Wednesday from 4.30 p.m. to the Freesenbruch campsite, where fisherman Manfred Strehlow sells his first-class smoked fish.
In the Darßer brewery in Prerow really good beers are brewed according to traditional brewing methods; after a strenuous cycle tour, a "cold-hopped Prerow Pils" is particularly recommended, www.darsser-brauhaus.de
The best fish sandwiches in Zingst are available at Karina's Fischgarten (Prerower Str. 1a, facebook.com/KarinasFischgartenZingst/
MYBIKE tip
Rennhack fish restaurant
Traditional restaurant in Prerow, which also offers smoked fish specialities. The smoked fish aspic with fried potatoes and homemade remoulade is great. In May and June, the garfish specialities are served here. www.fischgaststaette-prerow.de
Map
KOMPASS hiking map 736 Fischland, Darß, Zingst. Scale: 1:50,000
4in1 hiking map, with active guide and detailed maps, 12.95 euros, www.kompass.de
Cycling and hiking map Darßwald-Fischland-Zingstscale: 1:30,000, 5.50 euros, www.nordland-wanderkarten.de
General info
Fischland-Darß-Zingst Tourist Board, Im Kloster 15, 18311 Ribnitz-Damgarten, www.fischland-darss-zingst.de
Tourist information Zingst, Seestraße 56/57, 18374 Zingst, www.zingst.de
