It's stupid when you can't complain about the weather. Normally, a dramatic introduction with low-hanging clouds and constant rain always works well. In addition, the protagonists of the story are tortured by mud holes and dark German forests. Poor bastards. But I can do without this kind of intro. The trail is as dry as bread. The person in front of me doesn't even need to block the rear wheel to kick up dust. And it's dark, my arse. It's not even dark in the deepest undergrowth here! Spots of sunlight dance like butterflies on the path as it meanders whimsically along the slope. The crowns of gnarled deciduous trees arch high above us. Sometimes sand swallows up the rolling noises. An almost Mediterranean ambience. Our guide Dirk hadn't promised too much when he raved about the varied landscapes at the start of our tour through the Odenwald. And as soon as I finish thinking about it, the scenery turns into an epic panoramic view over the Rhine plain. Respect! A pretty impressive performance for a low mountain range that barely cracks the 600 metre mark at its highest point.
Until now, the most I associated the Odenwald with was terms such as spa bowling, dancing tea and Kneipp baths. Perhaps also with the Germanic Nibelung saga about Siegfried, the dragon slayer, whose bloody showdown allegedly took place in this region. In any case, nothing that would suit mountain bikers. But then the invitation from Dirk Dewald fluttered into the house, who clearly has alternatives to spa bowling and tea dances. Seven years ago, the former triathlete came up with the idea of a network of marked bike routes criss-crossing the Odenwald. A bold plan in a region that reverently calls itself a "Geo-Nature Park". After all, at first glance this sounds more like a world heritage site with a strict ban on access than a biking paradise. "Everyone wanted to have a say, from the forestry office to nature conservation," says Dirk as we penetrate deeper and deeper into the undulating landscape. But as the planning officer for the Geo-Nature Park Association, his persistence with the authorities paid off. And in 2011, the first of 30 circular trails was opened. You can also combine sections of the loops to create longer tours. We want to experience the essence of the Odenwald in four stages. Cosy forests, secluded valleys, surprising viewpoints and, of course, the most flowing trails.
There is no shortage of trail scouts in our group. Dirk has rounded up some locals who have already contributed their expertise to the development of the route network. For example, Gerald, who, in addition to the trails, is also well versed in the colourful history of the Odenwald. The enterprising bike shop owner Tord S. or such illustrious companions as "Unterholz" Ernst, who is suspected of finding trails where there are none. The best conditions for some fun kilometres in the saddle. The first ramps are behind us, and by now the counter on the altimeter is even approaching the four-digit mark. The tricky thing about the Odenwald is its location on the edge of the Rhine plain. With a base altitude of just 90 metres, even a harmless low mountain range shows its teeth when it climbs up to 500 metres. Dewald's team has created a tasteful mixture of forest paths, gravel tracks and trails. Asphalt sections are few and far between. At Krehberg, we pass the Seidenbucher Felsenmeer, one of numerous stone monuments in the Odenwald. As if a giant had poured out a dice cup, hundreds of boulders are scattered throughout the forest. Playgrounds for triallists, shaped in the last ice age. Here we join the Nibelungensteig, a hiking trail that crosses the Odenwald from west to east. Its distinctive red "N" leads us to Grasellenbach, the destination of the first stage.
The tranquil village is practically the epicentre of the infamous Nibelungen saga. That Germanic heroic epic that tells of fire-breathing dragons, kings, their daughters, intrigues and a treasure. In principle, something similar to the old TV soap opera "Dallas". Almost everything here is named after characters or props from that saga. For example, the inns are called Hagen or Kriemhildenruh. There is a Guntherstraße. And the Nibelungencafé serves calorific sensations such as "Siegfried's ice cream bomb", "Brunhild's cream dome" or the dragon's blood cake. "And all because of an ominous fountain that no one knows if it's even the right one," says amateur historian Gerald as we make our way there the next morning. "The story only tells us that Siegfried was murdered at a spring in the forest." So it should come as no surprise that there are around ten different Siegfried fountains on the Odenwald maps. As the trail patron for the two Grasellenbach circuits, Gerald naturally knows every path through the undergrowth. And so he guides us along a few extra trails to the small clearing where a stone cross next to the spring commemorates the assassination.
It goes without saying that a detour to the highest peak in the low mountain range is a must on a tour through the Odenwald. On the way to the Katzenbuckel, we pass ancient boundary stones that marked old trade routes. A weathered inscription reveals that as early as 1831, it cost a guilder in fines if you left the road with your vehicle. Although the Odenwald did not have such a predatory reputation as the neighbouring Spessart, a journey through the deserted forests was still associated with a high adventure factor.
Light-shy riff-raff threatened property and possessions, and a human life was not worth much. A gallows still stands on a hill near Beerfelden, where up to three villains could be hanged at the same time. Then we stand on the former volcanic cone and enjoy the view across the winding Neckar valley, which borders the Odenwald to the south. At an altitude of 626 metres, however, we only feel breathless because Dirk and his mates are once again pushing the pace. The route profile still has a number of climbs to Wald-Michelbach. Above all, we have to work our way back up from the Neckar valley to the level of the Odenwald. But on the ridge between the Steinach and Ulfenbach valleys, the locals have once again found a marvellous single trail that makes all the effort worthwhile. The racers in the group are in their element with their cross-country hardtails on the old border trail, the course of which is marked with milestones. They romp along the path as exuberantly as children.
The last stage of the tour also requires full use of the leg muscles. The constant ups and downs begin with the climb up the Tromm, whose summit, crowned by the Irene lookout tower, is only slightly below the height of the Katzenbuckel. The Rhine plain is already in sight again, but for now the Odenwald does not loosen its grip on the calves. "It's not really downhill until the very end," says Dirk, dampening my excitement for a pleasing finale. The dance of the chain over the sprockets continues. Kreidacher Höhe, Galgenhöhe and Eichelberg are the next topographical nasties before the waves of the mountains slowly ebb away into the Rhine valley at "Kalten Herrgott". But Dirk has also saved a highlight for the finale. In the Weinheim exotic forest, we roll past furrowed redwoods and Atlas cedars towards our destination. No wonder, given the climate in the Odenwald.
The 4 MTB stages of the Odenwald Tour
First stage: Lorsch - Grasellenbach
36.4 km/1116 hm
After the start in Lorsch at the Königshalle (UNESCO World Heritage Site), you can roll up to Heppenheim for five kilometres before the ascent to Starkenburg Castle (landmark of the Bergstrasse) demands the use of your gears for the first time. As you continue through the vineyards, you can enjoy a marvellous view of the Rhine plain. From Krähberg, a narrow trail leads along the Nibelungensteig trail down to Schlierbach. After the ascent to Lindenfels Castle, there is an opportunity to stop for refreshments. A short descent on a path takes you to the Gumpener Kreuz. It remains undulating: a crisp ramp over the "Stotz", rapidly downhill to Fürth-Weschnitz. Once again, the Nibelungensteig now leads up to the Walburgis Chapel in sharp hairpin bends (short stretches). On a clear day, you can see as far as Frankfurt am Main. The finale is a relaxed ride on forest paths to the day's destination in Grasellenbach. Overnight tips www.mtb-geo-naturpark.de
Second stage: Grasellenbach - Reisenbach Grund
56.4 km/1378 m elevation gain
The signposted Geo-Nature Park MTB route GR E1 leads along deserted paths to the legendary Siegfriedbrunnen fountain and onwards over hilly terrain to the Marbach reservoir. After passing under the impressive Himbächel viaduct, there is a long climb to the Krähberg, which is around 550 metres high (refreshments available at the Waldgasthof Reußenkreuz). With new energy in your legs, the endlessly long descent through one of the most wildly romantic Odenwald valleys is great fun. Shortly before Keilbach, the route passes under another mighty viaduct. The calorie boost should still be enough for the long, energy-sapping climb to Mudau. After all, Mudau is the highest municipality in the Odenwald. On the way, you cross the border from Hesse to Baden-Württemberg. From the transmission mast there, the route follows the tarmac K3921 district road to the stage finish in Reisenbach Grund. Overnight stay www.landgasthof-zum-grund.de
Third stage: Reisenbach Grund - Grasellenbach
61.1 km/1273 metres altitude
The longest stage starts up to Strümpfelbrunn and Waldkatzenbach, past the Stone Table. However, the end of the climb is only reached at the Katzenbuckel, the highest mountain in the Odenwald at 626 metres. The crater lake is a reminder that the Katzenbuckel was once a volcano. Beautiful trails lead from the summit towards the ruins of Eberbach Castle. The most technically challenging section of the route awaits there: endless hairpin bends that lead down to Eberbach am Neckar. Then it's easy rolling along the Neckar to Hirschhorn, where you can stop for lunch. From the southernmost point of the tour, the route now heads north again on forest tracks. The Höhenweg, a fantastic single trail, climbs steadily for the next eight to ten kilometres towards Wald-Michelbach. Gaps in the forest open up marvellous views to the east towards the Odenwald in Baden. The last few kilometres to Wahlen are on cycle paths. Overnight tips www.mtb-geo-naturpark.de
Fourth stage: Grasellenbach - Lorsch
54.8 km/866 m elevation gain
The final stage begins with the ascent to Tromm, a striking ridge. After savouring the view from the platform of the Irene Tower, a panoramic trail leads to Kreidach. Along the way, you pass numerous works of art that are thought-provoking. At Kreidacher Höhe, you cross the L535 state road and the last steep climb of the day begins: on forest paths up to Ober-Abtsteinach. Typical of the Odenwald, the panoramic trails are never boring. The Rhine plain soon comes into view again. A narrow trail follows in the direction of Unter-Abtsteinach, before the route continues up and down around the Eichelberg to Oberflockenbach. The final highlights are the flowing trails to Weinheim and the passage through the city forest with its exotic redwood trees. The last 15 kilometres are flat back to Lorsch.
Information about mountain biking in the Odenwald
The low mountain range The Odenwald rises on the eastern edge of the Rhenish Plain in the triangle between the cities of Darmstadt, Heidelberg and Miltenberg. The highest mountain is the Katzenbuckel in the south of the low mountain range at an altitude of 626 metres. In stark contrast to the densely populated Rhine plain, the Odenwald is very rural and criss-crossed by secluded valleys. Typical: open spaces always provide vantage points. And you usually cycle through friendly mixed forest instead of gloomy coniferous forests.
Arrival From the south and north via the A5 Rhine Valley motorway, from the east via the A3 (Würzburg - Aschaffenburg,
Wertheim/Miltenberg exit. Or via Heilbronn on the A6 motorway.
Maps Kompass hiking map "Bergstraße/Odenwald" WK 827, 1:50000, ISBN 978-3850263542
Tours and GPS data. In collaboration with the locals, 30 circular routes have been signposted in the Odenwald to date, covering a total of around 1000 kilometres. The routes can also be combined. Good starting points are the Gras-Ellenbach/Fürth region in the centre, Weinheim in the south and Seeheim-Jugenheim in the north. Information, accommodation tips and GPS data at www.mtb-geo-naturpark.de
Guided tours Tord Steinbock, owner of the Odenwaldbike shop in Lorsch, offers guided tours
(e.g. Trans-Odenwald) and riding technique training. Info: Hirschstraße 1 in Lorsch, Tel. 06251/7055657, www.odenwaldbike.de
Bike park In Beerfelden (south of Erbach) there is a small but beautiful park with seven trails and a lift.
Info www.bikepark-beerfelden.de
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