Always the flow! Supposedly, happiness hormones flood the body when you glide along on cotton-soft trails - very thin ice, I think to myself and continue pedalling grimly.
Next to me, Holger is panting his lungs out. Leaning low over the handlebars, in the lowest gear, the tip of the saddle digging in ... well, let's leave the unsightly details in the dark. One thing is clear. That can hardly be what this flow psychoanalyst meant. Because on the ascent to the Esterbergalm, our thoughts tend to revolve around things like hell, excess lactate and pain. Halfway up the ramp, we pass the Dax chapel at a snail's pace, where it's best to try a prayer. There is talk of 26, 28 or even 30 per cent gradients on the final section. Fortunately, the route is tarmac, otherwise riding would be out of the question. The enduro bikes we are travelling on climb much better than expected. Thanks to the flat steering angle and long wheelbase, we negotiate the steep section as if on rails.
The GPS downloads for these tours can be found at the end of the article:
- Hüttlsteig (11.1 km, 603 m elevation gain, 1:30 h)
- Bernadeinsteig (33.3 km, 1285 m elevation gain, 4 h)
- Eckbauer (31.9 km, 1226 m elevation gain, 3:30 h)
From the late 1980s, the legendary Esterberg-Uphill race took place here, where international stars such as John Tomac did the honours. German biking greats such as Susi Dahlmeier - then still Susi Buchwieser - also celebrated their first successes here. The fastest bikers needed just under half an hour to cover the six kilometres from the Wankbahn valley station up to the Alm. The spectre of the climb also appeared from time to time in the route profile of the former Garmisch Classic Marathon. Anyone who wasn't in the leading group at the start of the climb was caught in the infamous traffic jam, forcing all the riders behind to push. You can't get back on your bike on this steep ramp.
We made it. At the end of the climb, we lay our bikes down on the grass and catch our breath. This is where the standard route to the Alm ends for us. The programme for the next few days doesn't include the Garmisch classics, but more unknown tours off the beaten track. One of these is the Hüttlsteig, which runs along the western flank of the Wank. Holger takes a sharp right onto the single trail. You can tell from his posture and facial expression that he doesn't really need tortures like the previous one. "The Garmisch trails all have one thing in common," says Holger. "You have to earn them first." And that's not the whole truth. The delicacies are not obviously in the landscape. "I discovered many of my favourite trails by trial and error," Holger continues. And thirdly, the trails usually require solid riding skills. I'll get to feel that often enough, although the Hüttlsteig trail is one of the more harmless types. In some sections there is even something like flow.
It's late afternoon, the hikers are already sitting in the beer garden and we have the path to ourselves. Sometimes a gap in the forest on the steep slope allows a view downwards. The low sun makes the Loisach glisten as if a luminous reptile were slithering through the valley. Only after crossing the Wank cable car route does the terrain open up above the Eckenhütte. Zugspitze and Wetterstein form an impressive rock bastion. However, it is the even Alpspitze and the Waxenstein in front of it that win the beauty rating. The Partnach separates the two districts of Garmisch and Partenkirchen, which were more or less forcibly merged on the occasion of the 1936 Winter Olympics. Since then, Garmisch-Partenkirchen has been definitively recognised as the mountain sports capital of Germany.
Holger Meyer and his family also moved from Munich to Garmisch five years ago because of the sports facilities. On the western edge of the village, you can recognise the former US barracks and the military area. This is where Garmisch-Partenkirchen made mountain biking history 33 years ago. The Americans stationed there brought the new sport across the pond. The premiere of the Fat Tire Spectacular took place at Keans Lodge, a recreation centre for soldiers, in 1984. The first and oldest MTB race in Germany. The local bikers also appreciated the race. For example, the career of Regina Stiefl, who had a decisive influence on the downhill scene in the 1990s, began at the Spectacular. Toni Brey, a biking veteran from Garmisch, still remembers the relaxed atmosphere at the events: "In addition to the cross-country race, there was always a fun hill climb competition. And afterwards, of course, a barbecue."
Back to the present. You might wonder why little remains of the glory of days gone by. The Americans left in 2014 and the Keans Lodge is closed. The ski resort would probably have the potential to offer something for bikers in summer. On the other hand: do there have to be bike parks and built trails everywhere? In summer 2016, the tourism committee officially announced that they would like to focus more on the wishes of cyclists in the future. The parties involved are currently meeting around a table to find a sensible concept. Forestry, nature conservation, landowners and tourism experts. Holger Meyer is also a guest at the roundtable discussions as a representative of the cycling group. "We hope that we can make a difference in people's minds, there are good approaches," says Holger. For example, the question of what priority bikers have as a target group remains open. It remains exciting.
Our next tour also sounds exciting. The Bernadeinsteig runs along the foot of the Alpspitze, from the Kreuzeck to the entrance of the legendary Reintal. A glance at the map makes your heart beat faster. The trail follows the contour lines above the tree line. This promises a high alpine ambience and great views. At the end of the long traverse, the dotted line turns vertical, so there should also be some downhill fun to be had. In typical Garmisch fashion, however, the gods have put sweat before fun. In other words, we crank up the steep gravel road to the Kreuzeck in the first light of day. Karen Eller is with us today. The reward for the first thousand metres in altitude is probably the most beautiful view of the Alpspitze over a cappuccino on the terrace of the Kreuzalm. "On the north side of the Kreuzeck there's the Jägersteig down to Hammersbach," says Holger. "But I haven't done that yet either."
In recent years, a new generation of Garmisch freeriders has been constantly on the lookout for new challenges. Riders like Lukas Gerum or Mario Lenzen, who were already carving wooden frames and jumps in the forest back in the days of the US barracks. The two blocked single trails from the Stepbergalm to Garmisch also enjoy a good reputation among riding technique specialists. The Bernadeinsteig is one of the easier trails. Fortunately for me. Past bizarre rock needles and steep gravel cracks, we work our way along the path towards the Wetterstein mountains, which have fascinated people since the early days of alpinism. The magazine of the German Alpine Club reported in 1903: "The massive, dominating block of the Zugspitzstock ends at the Zugspitzgatterl, the power of the Zugspitze ends. It is a new mountain range that rises steeply beyond the high ridge, beyond the mild, soft contours of the Jurassic formations. It has been raised and layered from the same mountain range, yet it is new and alien to the recently abandoned world of the Zugspitze."
Intermediate ramps and exposed bends prevent boredom from setting in. Later, bumpy root carpets demand our concentration. In front of us, the Reintal valley cuts a deep gash between the Zugspitze and Wetterstein. Smugglers were also reported back then, as the border with Tyrol runs along the ridge. "There is a romantic air about this solitude. Smugglers once dragged their heavy packs through the narrow, steep ridge between Oberreintalschrofen and Teufelsgrat in night and horror, in toil and danger. But since they stopped their activities, it has finally become quiet up there, and only rarely is the stony silence interrupted by sounds other than the roar of avalanches and the thunder of storms."
Yes, I can hear the sound of thunder coming from the forest. Or more of a rattling, accompanied by braking noises. At the point where the path becomes more and more vertical, I prefer to take the chickenway over the forest track. Now I wait at the bottom until the trail spits out Karen and Holger. They can't be far away with the background noise! Then the two of them shoot out of the forest, visibly marked by the shaking and bumping on the zigzag path. Okay, I'd rather not ask about the flow factor now. But judging by the grins - it was still awesome.
Matthias Rotter, BIKE travel author from the very beginning:
The tours from the old Moser bike guide are still among the top tours in Garmisch-Partenkirchen today. Even if the blue pools in the Reintal valley have long since been buried. You first have to get used to the trails of the new generation in terms of riding technique.
AREA HIGHLIGHTS
A world-renowned sports town - there is plenty for bikers to do around the Zugspitze when it comes to tours and metres in altitude. But there is also life after the sport! Here are the best scene tips and addresses for accommodation and shops in Garmisch-Partenkirchen.
GENERAL INFORMATION
The precinct
The mountain sports town of Garmisch-Partenkirchen lies at the foot of the Zugspitze, Germany's highest mountain at 2962 metres. The Wetterstein Mountains, Ammergau Alps and Ester Mountains form an impressive backdrop. However, the most striking landmark is the pyramid-shaped Alpspitze, one of the most beautiful peaks in the Alps. The ski stadium with its ski jumps is reminiscent of the Winter Olympics, which were held in Garmisch-Partenkirchen in 1936. Winter sports are also the main theme on the surrounding mountains, which are accessible by several gondola lifts. Only the nostalgic Eckbauerbahn cable car also takes bikers in summer. The bike area around the town has a number of classic tours to offer (see scene specials) and is the starting point for some Transalp routes. There are no specially designated trails.
Apart from the flat basin, the topography is alpine to high alpine. On the Osterfelderkopf, you can bike up to an altitude of 2033 metres. However, the majority of tours reach a maximum of 1700 metres. The network of forest and gravel paths is dense, but single trails are harder to find and often technically demanding. The paths on the Kramerplateau (Maximilianshöhe) between Pflegersee and Bayernhalle, which are closed to bikers, must be respected.
Arrival
By car via Munich on the A95 to Eschenlohe (end of motorway), continue on B2 towards Fernpass, via Oberau and Farchant to Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Distance from Frankfurt/M. 470 km, from Munich 90 km.
By train: Garmisch-Partenkirchen is perfectly connected to the railway network (Regional-Express, IC, ICE). From Munich there is a regional train every hour.
Climate
Garmisch-Partenkirchen is located in the northern foothills of the Alps, but at an altitude of only around 700 metres above sea level. You can therefore expect prolonged rainfall in the event of low pressure areas. However, thanks to the altitude, temperatures don't drop too low. According to statistics, June and July are the wettest months with around eleven days of rain each. Depending on the endurance of the winter, alpine tours are not free of snow until the end of May. In south-westerly weather conditions, Garmisch often enjoys a foehn bonus. This means that the sky is clear on the edge of the Alps, while it rains from Munich northwards. The most stable weather can be found in late summer and autumn, when thunderstorms become increasingly rare.
Bike shops
- Bike Centre, Ludwigstr. 90, Tel. 08821/54946, www.bikecenter-gap.deShop, hire and guided tours.
- Zweirad Pedalo, Hauptstr. 40, Tel. 08821/79161, www.zweirad-pedalo.de. Expertise in Garmisch for 21 years.
Driving technique courses
"Die Rasenmäher" have been based in Garmisch-Partenkirchen for a few years now and offer trail tours and riding technique courses. Info: www.dierasenmaeher.de
Maps & Literature
- Compass map WK 5 "Wettersteingebirge/Zugspitzgebiet", scale 1:50000, www.kompass.de
- Supertrail-Map "Zugspitz-Arena", 1:50000, www.supertrail-map.com.
Accommodation
From hotel to campsite. Three of them are Bed+Bike certified. Overview under www.gapa.de
BIKE tips:
- Sport-Quartier, Wildenauerstr. 21, Tel. 08821/7273366, www.sport-quartier.degroup houses and holiday flats. Ideal starting point for tours at the ski stadium.
- Haus Höllental, Höllentalstr. 39, Tel. 08821/95360, www.haus-hoellental.deaffordable and beautiful bed and bike hotel near the city centre.
General information
Tourist Information, Tel. 08821/180700, www.gapa.de
SCENE SPECIALS
Hobi's bakery
The original bakery is the breakfast classic in Garmisch. Gigantic selection of pastries, from pretzels to exotic curry rolls. Zugspitzstr. 2, tel. 08821/2727.
The shop
Bistro, snack bar and café in one. The kitchen crew in the newly opened shop attaches great importance to regional products and organic farming. Chamonixstr.12, Tel. 08821/9453040, www.derladengap.de
Renzo
Renzo in Partenkirchen has long been an institution when it comes to pizza and pasta. Quality and service at its best. Rathausplatz 6, Tel. 08221/4171, www.ristorante-renzo.de
Colosseo
Italian for the second time. The Colosseo is a little more centrally located in the Garmisch district, but the price level is higher. In any case, the food is delicious. Klammstr. 7, tel. 08821/52809, www.colosseo-garmisch.de
Bräustüberl
Opened in 1663, this traditional pub has seen both good and less good times. One thing is certain: there is no better way to enjoy a roast pork. However, the beer from the Garmisch brewery has been history since the 1970s. Fürstenstr. 23, tel. 08821/2312, www.braeustueberl-garmisch.de
Lodge on the local mountain
The trendiest meeting place in Garmisch, near the Hausbergbahn valley station. Enjoy a well-earned "Halbe" in the beer garden after a tour. Or you can party in the evening with good-mood music in the bar. Am Hausberg 3, tel. 08821/754520, www.lodge-gap.de
The tours for download
Correction: Attention, unfortunately we have made a mistake in the short description of tour 3: Instead of "overnight stay" it should read "refreshment stop". You can only stop off at the Elmauer Alm and the Gschwandtnerbauern, not stay overnight.
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