The green landscape is full of tranquillity. In the Mulde valley south of Grimma, the hustle and bustle of Leipzig or Dresden seems light years away, even though it is only a few dozen kilometres. No matter - the bikes roll along the tarmac of the Mulde cycle path, between wide fields, away from the Zwickauer Mulde and across its Freiberg sister, which will join at Sermuth. The place name "Kössern" races past in black on a yellow background. The manor house at the side of the road elicits a first "ooh" from the passing pedallers and just a few corners further on, the "aah" is followed by a full stop. Baroque alert! A newly restored hunting lodge that you wouldn't expect to find in this little village. The door to this architectural gem stands invitingly open and the visitor is immediately immersed in a story full of great names. There is the name of Augustus the Strong, Prince of Saxony, his favourite architect Daniel Pöppelmann and Wolf Dietrich von Erdmannsdorff, to name but a few. The latter was the former's chief court huntsman and had the task of entertaining the court hunting parties from time to time - for several days, of course. However, his manor was far too modest for this, which is why he engaged the ambitious Pöppelmann to build a hunting lodge. This is particularly significant because the architect began work on the Zwinger in Dresden in 1711 together with the sculptor Balthasar Permoser, where he also provided the designs for the Japanese Palace and Pillnitz Palace. Particularly worth seeing: the baroque hall on the upper floor. The high windows overlooking the garden are reflected in the fine oak parquet flooring and a colourful trompe-l'oeil ceiling painting spans the entire room. The depicted scenes from Greek mythology stay in your head and only blow away with the wind on the Mulder cycle path.
First science, then time travel
Heading north-west, the path crosses the Mulde again and a detour from the well-signposted cycle path leads to Großbothen, a little-known destination of note. What is now lovingly restored and called "Wilhelm Ostwald Park" was once the refuge of its famous namesake. He conducted research as a chemist at the turn of the 20th century and was honoured with the Nobel Prize in 1909 for his work on catalysis, for example. Wilhelm Ostwald lived and worked here intermittently from 1901 until his death in 1932. Today, his scientific library with tens of thousands of volumes can be viewed in his "Energy" house and the historical laboratory equipment provides an interesting insight into the scholar's working world. And apart from its scientific significance, the well-kept estate is a perfect place to rest. Back on the cycle path, Grimma with its historic town centre beckons, but after just a few kilometres it becomes clear that it will take a little longer. This time, the cyclists stop at the sight of a traditional yaw rope ferry, which has been ferrying people and occasionally animals by muscle power here since 1513. The cycle path has to wait, as time really does seem to have stood still on the other bank. In Höfgen - the "village of the senses" - the scent of fresh bread wafts between pretty half-timbered houses, a historic mill wheel rattles by the river and chickens peck at the grass in the gardens. This rural idyll is enchanted by works of art in every nook and cranny. And when you look at the variety of cultural events throughout the year, you realise that there is simply too much going on here for just a short flying visit. There has to be a next time in Höfgen, but today it will remain a stroll through the alleyways, past the historic ship mill and, after another leisurely ferry ride, back on the saddle. A sign along the way points to Nimbschen Abbey. What was there again? It takes almost a kilometre of cycling to find the answer: Luther! Or rather, his better half Katharina von Bora. She lived as a nun in Nimbschen before her marriage. Today, only a ruin remains of the monastery, but it's enough of a romantic reminder of times long past. Another reminder for the return journey, but who knows what surprises await in Grimma...
Information on
"Zwickauer Mulde (156 km)"
Start: Schöneck (Vogtland)
Destination: Sermuth
Accommodation recommendation
- Hotel Ratskeller Eibenstock, www.ratskeller-eibenstock.de
- Hotel Neustädter Hof, Schwarzenberg, www.neustaedterhof.de
- Colditz Castle Youth Hostel, www.colditz.jugendherberge.de
Worth seeing
- Zwickau: Robert Schumann Museum, August Horch Museum
- Rochlitz Castle
Active & Vital
- Bathing gardens in Eibenstock
- "ErzWay" Segway tours in Eibenstock
- Reservoirs: Muldenberg in Grünbach, Sosa in Eibenstock
"Freiberger Mulde (120 km)"
Start: spring in the Czech Republic (Moldava),
on the German side Holzhau
Destination: Sermuth
Accommodation recommendation
- Hotel Saigerhütte, Olbernhau, www.saigerhuette.de
Worth seeing
- Freiberg: Visitor mine, St Mary's Cathedral, Freudenstein Castle with "terra mineralia" - one of the largest
and most beautiful mineral exhibitions in the world
- Altzella Monastery Park in Nossen
- Mildenstein Castle and Buch Monastery near Leisnig
"United Mulde (126 km)"
Start: Sermuth, Finish: Dessau-Rosslau
Accommodation recommendation
- Adventure Hotel Zur Schiffsmühle, Grimma-Höfgen, www.schiffsmuehle.de
- Heide SPA Hotel & Resort, Bad Düben, www.heidespa.de
- Hotel Kloster Nimbschen - Restaurant and monastery tavern, www.kloster-nimbschen.de
Worth seeing
- Saxony's longest suspension bridge spans 80 metres over the Mulde near Grimma
- Monastery ruins in Nimbschen
- "Göschenhaus" museum with Seume memorial in Grimma
- Historic forge and museum Schiffsmühle in Höfgen
- Protestant church with Renaissance wooden coffered ceiling in Löbnitz
Active & Vital
- Bad Düben - state-recognised mud spa
Further route suggestions
- Cycling: New Lakeland cycle routecoal-steam-light cycle route, Elster cycle route
General information and contact
Coordination centre Mulderadweg
c/o Leipzig Tourismus und Marketing GmbH
Augustusplatz 9, 04109 Leipzig
+49 (0)341 7104-372
www.mulderadweg.de
