MTB trails between the Odenwald and Spessart: 4 trail circuits in the Odenwald syndicate

Sunday at last. A day to suit Markus, Jojo, Tom, Steffen and the two Stefans. It's still early in the morning and the sun's rays are falling at a low angle like a golden veil through the foliage in the forest south of Külsheim. Just two years ago, the small town of 5,500 people at the northernmost tip of Baden-Württemberg looked like a blank spot on the mountain bike map. But since Markus Ullrich, Joachim "Jojo" Krumrey and their friends decided to change this, the town in the idyllic undulating no man's land between the Odenwald and Spessart has suddenly become one of the nation's flagship bike projects.

"Not bad, is it?" Jojo calls from behind as he circles round the trees in a trail slalom. A small jump and the flowing curve continues. "It's all manual labour" grins Jojo as he brakes briefly to wait for the rest of the group. The cheeks of the full-time cellar master glow pink. His eyes light up as if the wine-growing region around Külsheim has just produced a particularly good Schwarzriesling vintage. Go on! "It really annoyed me that I always had to drive somewhere else to find good trails," recalls Markus Ullrich. "In the beginning, it was all about having fun," he admits on a leisurely uphill section. But the ego project soon turned into a collective "we".

Corona and the right contacts as levers

Markus made his first attempt to put Külsheim on the trail map in 2017, speaking to the forester and the mayor. The response was lukewarm. But as a project manager at a bank, Markus knows that big projects often need more than one attempt. During the coronavirus pandemic, the illegal trail sections in the Külsheim forests are sprouting up. Can that be the solution? Not for Markus. He gets together with four other bikers. Five forty-somethings thrown together by chance, all keen mountain bikers and e-bikers. Each of them brings valuable contacts, talents and skills to the table: As a winegrower, one of them has the right contacts and leverage to enter into dialogue with farmers, foresters and winegrowers. Another is a member of the city council planning group. The next is in charge of a bike club at school. And suddenly the mayor's doors are wide open.

A cart track winds along the edge of the forest. On the right, ancient, gnarled trees grow in a cow pasture. Fairytale-like! "The planning took more energy than building the trails," Markus looks back during the ascent. He talks about countless nights when he hardly slept a wink. Sleepless in Külsheim. Luckily, one of the five works at the surveying office. After a planning phase lasting around a year, the team submits an impressive 40-page route document to the forestry office.

The result is clearly visible from the 21 metre high Stahlberg observation tower. The view sweeps over the KUE1 route - that's what the people of Külsheim call their 30-kilometre trail, which circles the town like a rollercoaster. Up, down - the route is as varied as a trip to Germany: dark spruce forests, light valleys with the remnants of the morning mist still hanging over them, undulating meadows like on a mountain pasture, colourful deciduous forests, gurgling streams. "In the end, the construction of the trails went quite quickly," says Jojo. No wonder, the Külsheim trails have long been a local community project. "400 pupils from the local school helped shovel and dig." And the kids have also learnt something from the nature project. Trail building, wildlife and flora were discussed in class. "It was a great boost for acceptance in the village," says Ralf Fiederling, the school liaison officer. The pupils made the signs for the trails in craft lessons. "They even got marks on them!"

A few flowing berms lead into somewhat rougher terrain. The KUE1 meanders between beech trees and boulders before turning into a more relaxed section towards the end of the route. "Of course, a cosy stop is part of it," laughs Jojo. The interior of Hofgut Grimm is reminiscent of a hipster bar in the big city. Stylish, modern. The wines in the wine bar are sustainably sourced. It's not the first time Markus, Jojo and their friends have been here. "We've had a lot more guests here since KUE1 opened," says farmer and winemaker Michael Grimm happily, serving a dry Edelberg Pinot Gris with cheese and bacon.

After a glass or two, the mood becomes more exuberant. The success of the KUE1 has given the Külsheimers a boost. Conversations quickly turn to new trails. An enduro trail? Why not? Over the autumn and winter, the Külsheim bike crew, which has long since continued to grow, has swapped e-bikes for shovels and hoes more frequently. The trail construction team now has around 60 members. "It's creating a great community," enthuses Markus Ullrich. The hobby trail builders meet every fortnight to dig and shape. This spring, the new KUE2 was inaugurated with three enduro lines - another 25 kilometres and 600 metres in altitude. "Why not a KUE3?" Jojo ponders. Now that even the mayor is an enthusiastic e-mountain biker, such visions of the future are no longer utopian. "Then we need an extended rescue concept," ponders Stefan Thum, who, as an anaesthetist at the hospital, knows the importance of emergency plans.

City council meeting in Wertheim with trail construction item on the agenda

Even beyond Külsheim, the unconventional yet professionally planned trail project is generating a wave of enthusiasm. The next largest town, Wertheim, invited Markus Ullrich to a town council meeting last year. Item on the agenda: trail construction. "In the meantime, the trails there are about to be approved," says Markus. He grins ear to ear.

But something has also happened in the immediate neighbourhood. Almost at the same time as the KUE1 trail, the almost 17-kilometre-long HA1 bike trail was created in the neighbouring town of Hardheim. Flowing single trails alternate with steeper, rocky sections. In between, enduro riders also get their money's worth on smaller drops and jumps. "Just like our neighbours, a lot of manual work goes into our trails," says Christian Rückert proudly. He is one of the locals who are committed to maintaining and planning the trails. Over an après-beer at the rustic Mühlbach hut, he talks about new plans. "We're currently looking at how we can create a connection to the Külsheim trails in an environmentally friendly way." Once the gap has been closed, it would be a further boost to the region's appeal as a destination for mountain bikers.

Like many other regions, the Hardheim bikers are supported by the Bergstraße-Odenwald Geo-Nature Park in their planning and coordination with the authorities. The UNESCO Global Geopark between the Rhine, Main and Neckar rivers stands for both gentle tourism and an active experience of nature. Mountain biking also plays an important role here. "Our concept is based on two pillars: Information and integration," says Larissa Arras, responsible for mountain bike route planning at the Geo-Nature Park. "All stakeholders such as forestry, forest owners and local MTB clubs are involved in the planning process in order to avoid conflicts from the outset."

Role model: the legendary MIL1 from Miltenberg

The model for many routes in the Odenwald is the now legendary MIL1 in Miltenberg. Max Ruprecht grew up on this trail as a biker. He skilfully shoots himself over a kicker on the Tobis trail. Twelve years ago, his father Stefan founded a community of interest for local trail projects here together with other bikers. There are now around 150 kilometres of other mountain bike trails in the region: the CO1 in Collenberg, the BÜ1 in Bürgstadt, the GH1 in Großheubach and the AM1 in Amorbach.

The motto in Miltenberg was also "sleeves up" right from the start - or as Stefan puts it: "No dig - no ride!" Today, the MIL1 is regarded as a showpiece of organised digging that has been coordinated with the local authorities - an impressive loop that even experts won't get bored for a second. Steep mountain slopes line the loop of the Main near Miltenberg. The ascent is energy- and battery-saving on forest paths, while seven trail sections, each with its own character, beckon downhill: the playful Tobis Trail, the rocky Keltensteig, the rooty Jägersteig, the Fun Trail, the Quellen Trail with North Shore elements and the flowing Acacia Forest.

As in many other regions, these delicacies did not fall from the sky in Miltenberg. The little town on the River Main has a dreamy feel. Narrow alleyways, old half-timbered houses. Great for exploring romantic corners after a bike ride. A touch of the Middle Ages. Unfortunately, until a good decade ago, the town planners were still clinging to it. "When a group of young people tried to put the idea of a downhill trail to the mayor, he laughed at them and threw them out," says Stefan Ruprecht. But this fuelled the ambition of some bikers even more. They founded an interest group and approached the city again with concrete plans. The idea: link existing routes to form a circuit, include illegal routes and create attractive, challenging routes. "The forester reacted aggressively at first when he inspected the black Tobi Trail," Stefan recalls, "but soon the cooperation with him and other authorities was very constructive." When the interest group presented a modified plan without the Tobis Trail, the forester rubbed his eyes in amazement and decided: the Tobis Trail stays!

The idea for the Keltensteig Trail even came from the forester himself. "We were allowed to reactivate old paths, such as an overgrown back lane," Stefan chats about the trail's founding days. "We crawled through two-metre-high brambles. We heaved huge boulders with chisel bars. It was a crazy project. But today, the Celtic Trail is one of the most beautiful sections of the MIL1." Stefan and his colleagues from the Miltenberg gymnastics club's mountain bike group now regularly receive enquiries from larger cities: Stuttgart, Nuremberg, Würzburg. "There's still too much illegal building going on there," says Stefan. "The big cities are only now realising that official bike trails are an important part of visitor management in local recreation areas and are jumping on the bandwagon."

The most professional: the MI1 in Michelstadt

This train has been rolling for the longest time in Michelstadt, Hesse. "Here, too, the local bike scene's own initiative was the key to success," says Jörg Reeg as he makes a brief stop at the end of the Ritterstein Trail. "We incorporated elements of the legendary Rollercoaster Trail in Finale Ligure into this section," says Jörg, smiling with pleasure. He is one of the founding fathers of the MI1 trail. "It was important to us to create a versatile trail circuit that anyone can ride and where you can automatically hone your riding technique." Jumps, berms and switchbacks alternate with sometimes fast, sometimes relaxed flowing segments. The MI1 has long been more than just a nice little project by a few bike freaks. The trail design and signposting can easily keep up with professional trail parks. As the maintenance of a well-maintained trail also costs something, the Mümlingtal cyclists from Michelstadt have come up with something. Next to the signposts on the trails are signs with a QR code. The link leads to the bike club's donation page. "Our activities can certainly not only set a precedent in the Odenwald," says Jörg Reeg confidently. "The trail projects in the region show what is possible when you really live mountain biking and not just consume it."

The 4 Odenwald trail tours

Tour 1: Hardheim - HA1

• Length: 16.4 kilometres
• Uphill: 445 metres in altitude
• Trail share: 17 %
• Difficulty: S0-S2

Tour description

Starting point: Hardheimer Schlossplatz car park

The tour: An after-work ride and a test of versatility in the region: the HA1 route scores with plenty of variety. From easy, flowing single trails to drops, jumps and steep ramps, all the desirable elements are included.

From the car park at Hardheimer Schlossplatz, the route leads uphill to the Wolfsgrubenhütte, where the trail fun begins with the Wolfs-Trail. Most of the metres in altitude are then covered on paved forest paths up to the Hubertushütte. Reward for the effort: the Margarethen Trail starts up here. Initially, this trail is still quite flowy. But on the second section, it's time to roll up your sleeves: technically demanding, steep and crisp, you rumble down into the valley. At the end, the trail leads into an old back lane, but the fun remains. Also because the landscape here provides a particularly pretty backdrop. After crossing the country road between Hardheim and Miltenberg, the route follows the idyllic Mühlenradweg cycle path along the stream back to Hardheim.

Key points: There are a few short sections on this tour that require safe riding technique. 50 % of the trails are moderately difficult, 20 % difficult (max. S2 on the Margarethen Trail).

Refreshment tip: Stop off at the Mühlbach hut (Wohlfahrtsmühle) with its idyllic beer garden, hotel and excellent cuisine.

Tour 2: Külsheim - KUE1

• Length: 29.9 kilometres
• Uphill: 687 metres in altitude
• Trail share: 32 %
• Difficulty: S0-S2

Tour description

Starting point: Külsheim Castle, or at the clubhouse of FC Hundheim-Steinbach.

The tour: Trail fun for everyone: The KUE 1 is designed as a technically and scenically varied circular route. The most beautiful panoramic views can be enjoyed from the viewing tower on the Stahlberg. The route features a total of ten trails. Obstacles, jumps and technically challenging sections can always be avoided.

From the castle, you first ride along the border to the military training area, then uphill on a crisp trail (80 metres in altitude) until the flat Ho Chi Minh Trail begins. The next highlights follow immediately with the High Line Trail and the jumpy Darkline. Through the Finsteren Grund and along the Förster Bausback trail to the fun Försterspfädle. The Madenbuckel concludes the first part of the trail orgy. Then it's time to set off: farm tracks lead through biotopes and vineyards to the viewing tower on the Stahlberg in Uissigheim. The subsequent downhill leads over meadow paths to the Schlangengraben. The "Amors Schlange" trail offers various steep bends in the lower section and ends at the Amorsbach stream. The next uphill leads up a cattle pasture to the nature trail (be considerate of hikers), to the "Hoher Herrgott" trail (lots of jumps and bends) through the Schönert forest area. "Rock n' roll" is the motto of the last descent on the Stettenberg before you ride along the vineyards, past the Grimm winery, back to the starting point.

Key points: Around 20 per cent of the trail sections require experienced riding technique, but you can always avoid the key sections. The last descent from the forest chapel is very rocky!

Retreat: There is a beer garden at the Hundheim-Steinbach clubhouse. Also nice: Grimm winery at the end of the tour.

Tour 3: Hundheim - KUE2

• Length: 20.3 kilometres
• Uphill: 620 metres in altitude
• Trail share: 14 %
• Difficulty: S1-S2

Tour description

Starting point: Sports ground of the FC Hundheim-Steinbach

The tour: Full of enduro fun for after work or just in between: The KUE2 west of Külsheim is designed as an enduro track. A few laps on the club's own pump track are recommended as a warm-up. Advanced riders can then refine their jumping technique on the dirtline.

Basically, this route is more of an excursion to the trail centre than a circular tour: from the club sports grounds, you follow the field paths for just under four kilometres past the Vorderer Meßhof towards Erfttal. Slightly uphill, perfect for rolling in. Until you finally reach the start of the three challenging lines, all of which have the same end point in Erfttal in Breitenau. The uphill between each of the descents has a good 190 metres of climbing on a gravel road and stretches up the Katzen(-bach) valley. Then take the same route back to Hundheim.

For a full day of touring, simply combine the KUE 1 + 2 into one large tour (total length: 56 km/1300 metres in altitude).

Key points: In terms of riding technique, the three downhill trails of the KUE2 are at a rather high level of difficulty in enduro style (up to S2): winding forest trails with roots, tight bends in the steep valley slope and steps. Fun and flow come when you know how to modulate the brakes correctly, react quickly and still maintain full control of the bike.

Retreat: There is a beer garden at the Hundheim-Steinbach clubhouse. The Grimm winery is a good option for the KUE 1 extension.

Tour 4: Michelstadt - MI1

• Length: 45.6 kilometres
• Uphill: 1150 metres in altitude
• Trail share: 39 %
• Difficulty: S0-S2

Tour description

Starting point: Michelstadt old town

The tour: The Odenwald trail jewel - together with the creators of the Michelstadt MI1 loop, we have extended the original 25 kilometre tour here by around 20 kilometres. The additional loop leads to Forsthaus Eulbach (beer garden) and through the forests on the Katzenbuckel (449 metres).

From the half-timbered alleyways of Michelstadt's old town, the route leads along narrow roads and forest tracks to the limestone quarry. The first trail highlights are already waiting there, such as the Kirchberg Trail, the Kilians Trail with its short rollercoaster ride, the Hermannstempel with its wide views over the Middle Odenwald, the Kreuzweg Trail and finally the Viehtrieb Trail down to the car park at the forest swimming pool. The longest climb of over 200 metres in altitude in one go leads to the start of the Schlangenpfädchen trail followed by the Ritterstein trail - an almost two-kilometre-long descent with everything that is fun: berms, switchbacks, small jumps, sometimes fast, sometimes somewhat technical sections. The next longer uphill section leads to the highest point of the route at just over 500 metres above sea level.

On the way back to the forest swimming pool, the Silvan Trail inspires with its rollercoaster-like flow. Then the root path really gets things moving. The Enge Ding with the blocked Dreggs-Ding is a section for technical riders who love an alpine feel. The Mühlgrund trail is a natural pump track. Finally, the Bürgermeister section and the almost two-kilometre-long Schwimmbad Trail provide a flowing finale before you roll back down into the streets of Michelstadt's old town on gravel and asphalt.

Key points: 80 per cent of the MI1 trails are easy to moderately difficult. For the remaining 20 per cent, you need good riding technique. Especially in the Enge and Dreggs sections, where you have to master a few switchbacks in very close succession.

Retreat: There are plenty of places to stop for refreshments before and after the tour in the historic centre of Michelstadt. Recommended along the way: Forsthaus Eulbach at the castle with beer garden (km 20).

General trail info: In late autumn, the trails are often covered in thick foliage and in winter they are sometimes closed to keep the trails in good condition.

The GPS data for all four Trail Guide tours is available in the BIKE tour app:

Info Odenwald

The precinct

The Odenwald and its neighbouring regions are characterised by a varied low mountain range landscape. The scenic highlights include colourful mixed forests, bizarre rock formations and idyllic river valleys. The area we visited lies on the border between the federal states of Bavaria, Hesse and Baden-Württemberg and stretches for around 50 kilometres from Külsheim in the east via Miltenberg to Michelstadt in the west. The individual spots can easily be combined into a road trip over a long weekend. There are hardly any official charging stations for e-bikes, but charging is usually possible at inns with their own chargers.

Information on all trails and projects in the region is available from the Mümling Valley Cyclists in Michelstadt: muemlingtalradler.de

Arrival

By public transport: By train to Miltenberg or Michelstadt, info: bahn.de

By car: From the south: A9 Munich - Nuremberg - A3 Würzburg - A81 Tauberbischofsheim - B47 Hardheim/Külsheim - Miltenberg - Michelstadt. From Frankfurt: B45 towards Michelstadt, continue on B47 towards Miltenberg.

Accommodation

There are guesthouses and hotels in almost every town in the Odenwald. Detailed information is available from the tourism organisations (see below). Our tips:

• Wohlfahrtsmühle Hardheim, Tel. 06283/22220, welfaremill.com;
• Flair-Hotel Hopfengarten Miltenberg, Tel. 09371/97370, flairhotel-hopfengarten.de;
• Michelstädter Hof, Tel. 06061/671, michelstaedter-hof.de

Refreshment tips

• Hofgut Grimm, Tel. 09345/95454, hofgut-grimm.shop;
• Mühlbach Hütte at the Wohlfahrtsmühle Hardheim, Tel. 06283/22 220, welfaremill.com;
• Faust Braustuben, lounge with beer garden in Miltenberg, Tel. 09371/2709, faust-braustuben.de
• Forsthaus Eulbach near Michelstadt, Tel. 06061/969 8669, forsthauseulbach.com

Bike shops

• Michelstädter Radhaus, Tel. 06062/955 9950, kredel.de
• Odenwald Radlerei, Tel 0151/5274 9721, odenwald-radlerei.de
• Just Cycles in Amorbach, Tel. 09373/203555, just-cycles.com

The trails in autumn/winter

The best conditions prevail from April to October. In late autumn, the trails may be covered in leaves. In addition, some trails are closed in winter to keep the trails in good condition. Info: muemlingtalradler.de

General information

Geo-Nature Park Bergstraße-Odenwald, mtb-geo-naturpark.de

Odenwald Tourismus GmbH, bergstraße-odenwald.de