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It was a Prussian who paved the way for "Florence on the Elbe": as Johann Gottfried Herder noted in 1802, Dresden had "become a German Florence in terms of its artistic treasures". And if you cycle through the city from the south, you will find even more parallels to the Tuscan metropolis: a hilly landscape, the course of the river in the centre of the city and plenty of culture. If you like, you can also interpret the stone dome of the Frauenkirche as the equivalent of the Florentine cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore.
But all the baroque and fine arts would only be a backdrop if it weren't for the feeling of life that Dresden has on balmy summer evenings. That's when the streets empty later than usual and the outdoor seating in the alleyways around Neumarkt remains occupied until late into the night. A light white wine on the Brühl Terrace or a sparkling wine on the grass of the Elbe meadows are then the best ambassadors of that easy-going Italian feeling in Saxony. And anyone who likes things a little more colourful, perhaps even louder, can cycle past the Goldener Reiter to Neustadt. There, the Italian flair mixes with sounds, scents and flavours from all over the world. The streets become a promenade and the night turns into day in the cafés and clubs.
To the wine country!
But one place alone does not make a journey. And so the journey continues, out of Dresden. One last stop at the "Canaletto View", which Bernardo Bellotto immortalised in an incomparable oil painting in 1748: the Augustus Bridge on the left in the picture and, for once, the Dresden Hofkirche dominates the silhouette from this perspective. Today as then.
Downstream, the Elbe cycle path quickly leads out of the hustle and bustle of the city. Vineyards soon characterise the Elbe slope to the left and right. These are often steep sites from which winegrowers have been wringing the juice from the vines for many centuries. They have never been able to do big business, but the wines are certainly enough to make a good living. A trip to Altkötzschenbroda, a district of Radebeul, is well worth the effort. In the historic town centre, the pretty half-timbered houses with dozens of cafés and inns are unmistakably German. However, the attitude to life speaks a different language: anyone who lingers here for a while in the shade of the chestnut trees in the afternoon will soon feel the easy life of the Levant. Surprisingly, this works not only with wine, but also with a cyclist-friendly spritzer.
But as nice as the time out may be - the tour of Italy must go on. The Riviera is waiting. Shortly after Meissen, the proud castle town characterised by porcelain.
Riviera on the Elbe beach
It is 15 kilometres from Radebeul and there are always vines in view along the entire route. Riesling, Scheurebe and Pinot Blanc thrive in the mild climate of the river valley. Meteorologists count 1,600 hours of sunshine per year in this region, which is probably where the nickname "Saxon Riviera" comes from. It begins north of Meißen and includes the Elbe wine villages, some of which have been growing wine since the 13th century.
They are called Winkwitz, Diera, Zadel or Diesbar-Seußlitz and, along with a few other villages, invite river cyclists to lock up their bikes and treat themselves to an extended break. There is plenty to see: Hirschstein Castle or St Andrew's Church in Zadel and in Seußlitz the castle with the enchanting baroque church by the Dresden Frauenkirche architect George Bähr.
The wineries and wine taverns are usually just a short walk away from each other - and so is the next chat with the winemaker. Unlike in the large German wine regions, things are very personal in the Elbland. Many winegrowers dedicate themselves to their vines only as a sideline, but with all the more passion. Many vineyards are only good for a few hundred bottles a year, which makes many a cool sip a very exclusive pleasure. And there it is again, the sweet life the Italian way - La Dolce Vita.
Information on
Elbe cycle path in Saxony
- Start and finish: Elbe Sandstone Mountains and Torgau
- Route character: The natural cycle route has a flat topography and is therefore very suitable for families and occasional cyclists
Accommodation recommendation
Cycle-friendly accommodation along the Elbe Cycle Route fulfils all the criteria specified by the ADFC. www.elberadweg.de
Worth seeing
- Saxon Switzerland National Park with Bastei
- Old Town Dresden with Semperoper, Frauenkirche and Zwinger
- Radebeul-Altkötzschenbroda
- Meissen with cathedral, Albrechtsburg Castle and Meissen State Porcelain Manufactory
- Torgau with Hartenfels Castle
Stop off on the way
Along the Elbe Cycle Path, restaurants can be recognised by the "Cycle-friendly" badge. www.elberadweg.de
Active & Vital
- Torgau Museum Trail www.tic-torgau.de
- Elbe-Adventure (bike and boat hire) www.elbe-adventure.de
- Elbe-Freizeitland (adventure world for children and families) www.elbefreizeitland-koenigstein.de
- Toskana Therme Bad Schandau www.toskana-therme.de
- Goltzscha natural pool www.goltzscha.info/naturbad
Further route suggestions
Saxon Wine Trail
Special tip
Malerweg - Germany's most popular hiking trail leads through deep gorges, narrow crevices, over densely forested table mountains and sandstone peaks.
Your experts for cycling and hiking holidays
- AugustusTours www.augustustours.de
- CORSO... the travel agency www.corso-reisen.de
Further information
Elbe Cycle Route South Coordination Centre c/o Tourismusverband Sächsische Schweiz e. V.
Bahnhofstraße 21, 01796 Pirna
Telephone +49 (0)3501 470141
sued@elberadweg.de
www.elberadweg.de
