My God, someone could tidy up here. Fallen trees lie criss-crossed like Mikado sticks. And where there are no barriers blocking the path, at least the spiky branches of the fir forest protrude into the path. Their needles maltreat your calves, arms and face as you pass by. Scoring almost a kind of tattoo. The heat stands in the forest like a viscous mass. Rivulets of sweat run down your temples and drip from your chin onto the top tube. Just don't stop! Otherwise thirsty mosquitoes will immediately descend on your bare skin. After the first stage on the luxury Goldsteig trail, the Nurtschweg almost feels like a jungle path in places. We make our way up to the border ridge at a snail's pace. "Dou obm is auf jöden Fall wiedr a foahrbarer Trööl", gasps our leader in the broadest Upper Palatinate dialect. Even after three days, I still haven't quite got to grips with the subtleties of the local phonetics. Except that "ö" and "ou" play an important role. After a final steep ramp, we have obviously reached our destination. "Attention national border" warns a dented sign from the Bavarian border police dating back to the Cold War. And further: "Use of the path prohibited." But that was once upon a time. Today, the path along the Czech border is one of the highlights of this route through the Upper Palatinate Forest. Grippy soil caresses the studded tyres, a carpet of pine needles provides additional cushioning, with only the occasional root passage interrupting the flow. After all, the expensive fully suspension should have something to do. A "rideable Trööl" in every respect.
Underground changes every two minutes
Those who brake later are faster for longer. You can expect bikers with a sticker like this on the rear windscreen of their car to be up to more than just riding to the ice cream parlour in style. The suspicion is confirmed when Matthias Lenk and his mate Wolfgang lift their long-stroke bikes off the carrier at the start in Waldershof. A three-day tour with fat enduro bikes looks appealing. "Just a little comfort", says the local from Windischeschenbach, dampening my hopes of too much downhill fun. The topography of the area is typically German: constant, short steep ramps and equally short descents on which you barely recover. But after just a few kilometres, it becomes clear that this painful fact does not detract from the riding pleasure. The surface changes every two minutes: dirt tracks, meadow paths, gravel tracks, root trails - if you get bored here, you're beyond help. The catering facilities along the route are also extremely pleasant. With a beer brewer as his brother and informant, Matthias knows in his sleep which inns to stop at.
Stop off after the Zoigl star
He has rated them according to a very personal "Schnitzel Index" - which clearly indicates his favourite energy bar. Or you can simply base your choice of restaurant on the so-called
Zoigl star. This is a regional beer that the local population is traditionally allowed to brew themselves. And where the six-pointed star dangles in front of the door, there is always a hearty snack and Zoigl. "Let's go, let's get going," the guide rudely snaps us out of our backyard cosiness. "We've still got a big Külomeder ahead of us." After such a delicious snack, it's clear that pedalling is a little difficult. But the sluggishness is gone as we thread our way into the next trail. We follow the Waldnaab, which meanders through the area with numerous bends. The little river has carved itself so deeply into the landscape that the designers of the A93 motorway had a hard time building the bridge. Below it is a canyon with strange giant plants, hollowed-out stones, water vortices and kingfishers. A different world.
The Goldsteig is followed by the Nurtschweg
We have now reached the highest point of our journey on the third stage of the Nurtschweg. Somewhere in the "Woid". Not even a thousand metres above sea level and yet with pretty strained muscles. Then suddenly another small sensation! An engraved stone in a clearing announces that we are supposedly at the centre of Europe right here. Unfortunately, another mosquito attack prevents us from taking a photo to prove it and from looking into the matter in more detail. And anyway, we prefer to concentrate on the downhill, which is finally beginning. After all, those who brake later are faster for longer.
MTB tour through the Upper Palatinate
Our circular tour through the Upper Palatinate Forest is divided into three stages. With a total of 200 kilometres and 4300 undulating metres in altitude, the tour may not be a leisurely ride, but it is definitely a great pleasure. Time and again, single trail sections provide variety and a feeling of happiness.
The precinct The Upper Palatinate Forest (or Bohemian Forest on the Czech side) borders the Bavarian Forest to the north. The low mountain range is around 100 kilometres long and runs along the German-Czech border, between Waldmünchen in the south and Waldsassen in the north. Its highest mountain, the Cerchov, towers just over the thousand metre mark. The Goldsteig (Marktredwitz - Passau) and Nurtschweg (Kappl - Waldmünchen) are two major long-distance hiking trails that run through the forest. In between, there is a dense network of other marked routes, such as the Burgenweg and Glasschleiferweg.
Arrival From the south (Regensburg) and north (Hof) via the A93 motorway, all major towns along the Upper Palatinate Forest can be reached quickly.
GPS data/maps Compass hiking maps 1:50000, No. 192 (Northern Eastern Forest, ISBN 978-3854911272) and No. 193 (Central Eastern Forest, ISBN 978-3854911289). The GPS data for our circular tour can be downloaded below.
Tours On his homepage www.mtboberpfalz.de Local Matthias Lenk presents many routes through his home region with descriptions and GPS data. Guide service on request.
The three MTB stages in the Upper Palatinate Forest
1. Waldershof - Oberhöll (67.8 km, 1577 m elevation gain, riding time 6 hours)
The Goldsteig and Burgenweg trails run parallel on the first stage. However, instead of starting in Marktredwitz, we recommend starting in the neighbouring, quieter Waldershof. Large car park at the sports grounds. The route is perfectly signposted (golden yellow snaking line). The first hurdle is the Weißenstein ruins (863 m), built between bizarre rock towers. After crossing an idyllic lake landscape south of Wiesau, you reach Falkenberg Castle. From here, the route follows the meandering course of the Waldnaab via Windischeschenbach. The A93 motorway, which spans the deeply incised valley on high bridges, is crossed under several times. Rest tip Windischeschenbach: where the Zoigl star hangs in front of the door, you can enjoy the famous Zoigl beer and a snack. At the end, head back up to the Vierling viewing tower (633 m).
Overnight stay: Hölltaler Hof, Oberhöll 2, 92637 Weiden, Tel. 0961/4703940, www.hoelltaler-hof.de
2. Oberhöll - Bärnau (60.2 km, 1408 m elevation gain, riding time 5 hours)
After a few painful waves right after the start, a nice trail leads down into the valley of the Leraubach and on through the small Wolfslohklamm gorge. The following ramp up to Leuchtenberg Castle takes some energy again. In Leuchtenberg you leave the Goldsteig trail. A flowing single trail (white-blue markings) curves towards Vohenstrauß, where you continue eastwards on the Bockl cycle path, a former railway line. From Pleystein, follow the Glasschleiferweg (glass symbol) through the wild and romantic Zottbachtal valley. Be sure to take a look at the historic glass grinding works at the Hagenmühle. Rest tip: snack bar in the historic mill in Gehenhammer (Georgenberg). After the ascent to the Schellenberg ruins, there is a wonderful forest path passage along the Czech border.
Overnight stay: Gasthof zur Post, Marktplatz 8-9, 95671 Bärnau, Tel. 09635/9249630, www.gasthofzurpost-baernau.de
3. Bärnau - Waldershof (71.7 km, 1263 m elevation gain, riding time 6.30 hours)
From Bärnau to shortly after Neualbenreuth, the route largely follows the Nurtschweg (yellow-red-yellow markings). Exception: From Mähring up to the Czech border ridge, it is better to follow the road. On this section, the hiking trail is partly overgrown and impassable. The trail runs up and down on old paths along the border ridge. Near the Czech Tillenberg (Dylen), you pass the geographical centre of Europe, or at least one of them, at a marker stone. At the Grenzlandturm tower, it is worth taking a last look over the mountains before the tough finale via Mitterteich back to Waldershof begins. At Teichlberg in the Steinwald, an old basalt volcanic cone, lynx and other wild cats are said to roam the dark woods.
Overnight stay: Landgasthof zum Hirschen, Rodenzenreuth 5, 95679 Waldershof, Tel. 09231/7557, www.zum-hirschen.com
The tour descriptions and GPS data for the mountain bike tour through the Upper Palatinate Forest can be downloaded below.
Downloads:
Sebastian Brust
Editor
