When I read the text message that my mate Poschi sent me, my thighs twitch briefly. "Six ultra trail runners have completed the Jurasteig in 45 hours. So when do we attack?" Cheers meal, I think. But then my ambition takes hold. "You can easily beat that on a bike," I write back to Poschi. We had been thinking about the Jurasteig route for years, but had constantly put it off like a compulsory visit to grandma's house. After all, we are real locals, even though I moved to the edge of the Alps years ago. That's why I've preferred to ride the trails there ever since.
But now there's no turning back: I do my research, look for fellow travellers, get the maps and choose a weekend. Not non-stop, of course - like the handful of extreme runners - but evenly divided into three daily stages. In the saddle instead of on foot, staying overnight in guesthouses instead of following the light of a headlamp: we should be able to manage the 45 hours somehow, I secretly speculate.
When we stuff our rucksacks behind the Kelheim hospital on Friday afternoon and get on our bikes, it feels strange. Because for the three of us - Poschi, Marold and me - the first few kilometres are anything but uncharted territory. We know the trails from dozens of laps around the house on our bikes. Nevertheless, we are looking for adventure on our doorstep. Will it go well? After all, the Jura Trail promises 230 kilometres of "quality hiking trail" through gentle low mountain valleys. Right through the centre of the tranquil Upper Palatinate, on single trails and forest paths, along idyllic river valleys, striking rocky outcrops and tiny villages: Thannbügl or Poikam - only locals can pronounce these correctly.
Cross the Danube by ferry in Matting
As we fill up our water bottles at the cemetery fountain in Matting after 25 kilometres and wait for the cable ferry, Ludwig is already sunbathing on the opposite side of the Danube. He will only be joining us today. Right on his doorstep: Ludwig Döhl comes from Kelheim, now lives in Regensburg and knows every root on the Jura Trail like a collector knows his stamps. As an enduro racer, Ludwig uses the trails around Regensburg as training grounds. Including, of course, the Jurasteig, which is a leafy single trail through the slopes of Mattingen just a few metres after the ferry. Half an hour further on, on the rocky slopes above Schönhofen, Ludwig leads us on a short detour. Painted bear paws point the way. Left, right, ledge, berm: the meadow path rewards us with a rushing descent and spits us out right at a yellow Jurasteig plaque at the bottom.
There are thousands of these on the Jurasteig. This makes travelling almost impossible. There are so many yellow signs with the blue symbol attached to trees, posts and fences that you can almost do without a map. No matter which direction you are travelling in. You won't meet many hikers - despite the promising "quality hiking trail" seal of approval. The 230-kilometre main route takes twelve days to complete on foot - without one of the many additional loops. But the seal of approval also guarantees bikers rewarding kilometres of low mountain trails. Mostly on soft, rooted ground in the shelter of the forest. Up and down, 5300 metres of ups and downs: The trail often jumps from one side of the valley to the other, winds its way up the steepest ramps and immediately wipes out the metres of altitude gained through sweat.
What takes twelve days on foot, bikers can do in three
The speedometer is already showing almost 60 kilometres when we conquer another of these twenty per cent steep ramps just before Kallmünz. Only Marold doesn't show up. Five minutes later, the long rascal pushes his bike up. His rear brake has seized up and locked the rear wheel. Former mechanic Ludwig grabs the hardtail and tries to bend the brake pad spring back into place. No chance, the rear pads have to come out. Carefully, with only a stuttering front brake, Marold masters the subsequent downhill. While we continue along the Jura Trail, he pedals along the main road to our stage town of Kallmünz. Marold only rejoins us at dinner and gives the all-clear: "The bike is running again." It took three hours to find a bike workshop and have new brake pads fitted. In a backyard shop, a few kilometres outside of Kallmünz, it finally worked. Meanwhile, Poschi, Ludwig and I replenished our depleted energy stores.
The next morning, the next person is hit. Poschi's back pinches and stings and would turn the onward journey into an ordeal. After a few kilometres, he gives up and rolls back to Kallmünz. The nasty, short ramps of the sawtooth profile have worn down his back muscles and the root carpets have shaken his spine. A few months earlier, not even some of the rumbling trails in the Karwendel had managed that. Despite the small difference in altitude between the mountain and the valley, by the end of the day, the metres in altitude had rivalled the Alpine climbs. I wonder how the runners on the Ultratrail managed that. And another question now haunts my mind: who will be hit after Marold and Poschi? Hopefully not me, because I'd have to get a car to take me home. There are no railway lines here and you have to wait hours for public buses.
My friend Georg steps in for Poschi at short notice and accompanies us on the two stages from Kallmünz back to his home town of Kelheim.
Sawtooth profile declares a state of emergency in the thighs
The sausage slicer gleams like an anodised Chris King headset, the last mountains of sausages are waiting in the counter to be transported to the cold store and a woman is busily mopping the brown tiled floor. Saturday lunchtime, five past twelve: Marold jumps off his bike and storms to the door of the village butcher's shop. Then he gives the all-clear: "Guys, there's still something left!" With miserable looks on our faces, we talk the butcher into a huge piece of Leberkäs, spread over three rolls. With a cola. Never before have I looked forward to Leberkäs and Coke so much. I've sworn off the greasy sundries for years. But the 33 kilometres from Kallmünz to Hohenberg had declared a state of emergency in my thighs. There are still 45 kilometres to go to the day's destination of Deining.
The next day, same picture: sweaty, we pedalled past the monastery to Kelheim with dust-dry, croaking chains. I think of the Ultratrail runners, take a look at the speedometer and estimate: 5, 4, 5 ... We've been in the saddle for almost exactly 16 hours since Friday lunchtime. Significantly faster than running. Calculated net, of course. The total time since we've been on the road? Well, 51 hours ...
The Jurasteig - a quality hiking trail through the Bavarian Jura
Part 1 of our new Germany series takes us to the Upper Palatinate region west of Regensburg. The 230-kilometre Jura Trail is a "quality hiking trail" and is perfectly signposted in both directions. It leads through the low mountain range of the Bavarian Jura at an altitude of 5300 metres. The trail winds its way over the heights and valleys of the Danube, Altmühl, Weißer and Schwarzer Laber, Lauterach, Vils and Naab rivers. Pristine river landscapes alternate with karst plateaus. Castles, monasteries and rocky pinnacles adorn the route. The three daily sections of the Jura Trail should not be underestimated. If you want to take it easy, simply add another day.
The Jura Trail by mountain bike in 3 stages:
1st Kehlheim - Kallmünz (67.9 km, 1705 m elevation gain, riding time 5:00)
Behind the hospital in Kelheim, you climb up the Goldberg and follow forest and field paths until you cross the Danube in Poikam. Above Bad Abbach, the Oberndorf slopes offer nice single trails with far-reaching views over the Danube valley. After the crossing with the Mattinger cable ferry (www.pentling.de) you change to the valley of the Schwarze Laber via Alling to Eilsbrunn. Trails wind their way across open meadows and along rock formations to Schönhofen before reaching Etterzhausen in the Naabtal valley. Narrow forest paths lead along the slope to the monastery in Pielenhofen. You should take refreshments with you in the monastery restaurant, as the 15 kilometres to the stage finish are long.
Overnight stay: Gasthof Zum Goldenen Löwen, Alte Regensburger Str. 18, 93183 Kallmünz, Tel. 09473/380, www.luber-kallmuenz.de
2. Kallmünz - Deining (78.5 km, 1672 m elevation gain, riding time 4:45)
You leave the picturesque old town to the north-west into the Vils valley. The Jurasteig trail leads through sparse pine and mixed deciduous forests to the plateau of Lanzenried. From there, gentle trails lead to Schmidmühlen. Past Hammerschloss Castle, the trail loops through winding forest paths to Blaugrund. You then return to the idyllic Lauterach valley and collect rewarding metres on the northern side of the valley to Hohenburg. Continue along the Jura plateau with great views to the ruins. At Mühlhausen, turn south-west and after a long climb you reach the Habsberg pilgrimage church, which can be seen from afar. From the highest point, you cycle across wide meadows to Rothenfels, then along the Weiße Laber to Deining.
Overnight stay: Hotel Hahnenwirt, Untere Hauptstraße 2, 92364 Deining, Tel. 09184/1663, www.hahnenwirt.com
3. Deining - Kehlheim (84.4 km, 1923 m elevation gain, riding time 6:00)
You start by rolling along lonely forest tracks along the Weiße Laber to Holnstein. Switching sides, you follow the small river until shortly before Dietfurt. A flowing forest trail washes you into the seven-valley town. Tip: take a break at the historic Gasthof Stirzer. Now comes the crisp section to Riedenburg: first you have to crank up the northern bank of the Altmühl. The descent down to Meihern wipes out the metres in altitude gained. Cross the Altmühl and push up a steep path on the other side of the village to the Rosskopf plateau. Great views from the top. Before you can eat ice cream in Riedenburg, there are tough climbs to Eggersberg Castle and behind Gundlfing. The Keltenwall promises a challenging finale to Kelheim.
Overnight stay: Gasthof Stockhammer, Am oberen Zweck 2, 93309 Kelheim, Tel. 09441/70040, www.gasthof-stockhammer.de
The complete tour description of the mountain bike tour along the Jurasteig can be found below as a PDF download:
For your information: Driving ban near Eilsbrunn
Cycling is prohibited on a small section - called the "Alpiner Steig" - between Eilsbrunn and Schönhofen. There is also a prohibition sign there. However, it is only a few hundred metres. Everyone should please push their bike there!!! However, you should definitely not drive round this section, otherwise you will miss out on one of the best views in the entire Jura.
