Schlossplatz, Königstraße, Schlossgarten, Königsträßle, Königsplatz and so on and so forth. Since I've been in Stuttgart, my suspicion that the Swabian metropolis is mourning the monarchy has been growing stronger. We stand in front of the Bärenschlössle and enjoy the last rays of sunshine. Yes, those were the days when rulers could build a pleasure palace in the forest just as they pleased. The small pavilion stands on a hill in the forest, halfway between the city centre and the much better-known Solitude Palace, with the Bärensee lake resting in a hollow below. But the idyll is deceptive. For the lust of the monarchs, in this case William the First, sometimes took on bloodthirsty traits. A favourite pastime of the king and his entourage was to drive several hundred red deer through the pools of water, causing the poor animals to get out of breath and stagger in front of the hunters waiting on the opposite bank. These dodgy shootings were known as show hunts and were followed by a corresponding feeding frenzy.
Popular for after-work tours in Stuttgart
The wooded area between Stuttgart's Botnang district and Solitude Palace is a favourite among locals for their after-work laps. Cool shade, gentle inclines and a dense network of paths are tempting enough. At the weekend, however, it can get pretty busy between the wild boar enclosure and the three lakes when the people of Stuttgart head out with their children. But luckily there are plenty of alternative destinations, as my guide assures me. And Christian Deger should know. After all, the long-established Stuttgart resident works as a bike guide on the side and knows every hill and every Swabian trail, and not just by profession. We leave the site of historical carnage and head back towards the city. Cannondale's head of marketing Jens Haug and his mate Mario are waiting for us at Birkenkopf. Jens returned to his Swabian homeland a year ago after spending four years in Basel and one year in Garmisch.
The Birkenkopf is a very special mountain. A cone-shaped pile of stones around which a path spirals upwards like the coils of a spring. In a certain way unnatural - which is confirmed on the summit. For there, the core of the mountain is exposed, consisting of nothing but huge rubble. A memorial, heaped up from the fragments of the Second World War. Fragments of old columns and curved frescoes protrude almost ghostly from the hullabaloo. Former churches, palaces and façades of town houses. But apart from its sad past, "Monte Scherbelino", as the Birkenkopf is called by the locals, is one of the best vantage points over the city. Or rather the "Kessel". Because the Swabian metropolis, surrounded by an almost closed ring of hills, sits deep down in a hollow. After all, it is up to 300 metres in altitude from the lowest point on the banks of the Neckar up to the edge. Stuttgart's hollow location is also to blame for the fact that in summer, even without exertion, your forehead is constantly covered in sweat. When the heat builds up, there's only one thing to do: chill out uninhibitedly on the green spaces on Schlossplatz, a kind of Copacabana in the centre of the city.
From Stuttgart through the Schurwald
The next day, a tour through the Schurwald, Jens Haug's favourite area, is on the agenda. Friedemann Schmude, ex-racer and head of the Bulls team, and Stephan, owner of the Fischer & Wagner Radsport shop in Kirchheim, are also on the programme. Even on the steep approach to the start in Rotenberg, it becomes clear just how mountainous the "Ländle" region around Stuttgart is. Here, vineyards tower up on the banks of the Neckar. The slope angle is around 45 degrees. The vines grow abundantly towards the sun. In earlier years, there is said to have been so much of the grape juice that the masons used to mix their mortar with it. At least that's what they say. Even our studded tyres are enthusiastic about the fertile soil. The Schurwald is characterised by spiky, lovely forest paths, some with a distinctly bitter finish. As an appetiser, Jens takes us to the Kappelberg, which closes off the ridge to the north-west like a viewing platform. This time, however, the town shows its industrial side. Harbour facilities, docks and factories are lined up along the Neckar. Further back are the hallowed halls of Mercedes Benz and the Gottlieb Daimler Stadium. Then we plunge into the forest. "No matter which way you go, you can't get lost," Jens shouts before disappearing into the bushes. But after what feels like twenty-three turns, climbs and descents, I'm suffering from an acute loss of orientation. So, keep going, even if it hurts. After exploring the Schurwald trails, I'm in urgent need of a typical local meal: Maultaschen. But it's not easy to decide how to prepare them. The stuffed dumplings are available in broth, fried, flavoured or gratinated - to name just a few. So Jens' tip comes just in time: "It doesn't matter! The main thing is that the satchel stretches."
As I cruise across the Schlossplatz again in the late afternoon, I meet the freeriders Sam and Liro. Their bikes with maximum suspension are leaning against the monument to Christoph von Württemberg, who for once wasn't a king, just a duke. They don't want to tell me where they were shredding, but I'm welcome to join them on the next ride. I learn that Sam has founded the "Stuttgarter Rider" interest group. "We're not a club," explains Sam. "We only meet up online." The Stuttgart freeride scene doesn't exactly have it easy. Especially not since the Green Party's plan to set up an official downhill route between Degerloch and Heslach failed in 2007. The conditions would have been ideal: down on a secured course, up with the "Zacke". The rack railway, equipped with a bicycle carriage, climbs from Marienplatz to Degerloch every quarter of an hour anyway.
More MTB hotspots around Stuttgart
If the Stuttgart bikers get too cramped in their cauldron, there are other places to ride within a radius of around 50 kilometres. For example in Schönbuch, a huge wooded area between the state capital and Tübingen. This is where Merida team rider Hannes Genze often does his training laps. The 2005 European marathon champion and last year's runner-up at the Craft BIKE Transalp lives in Sindelfingen, on the western edge of the Schönbuch. Hannes enthuses: "Pure nature! And the trails are deserted during the week."
Or you can drive a few kilometres further south to the Swabian Alb. In Bad Urach I have an appointment with Stefan Pahl, Product Manager at Magura. We're going on a panoramic tour. At the start is product developer Reiner Künstle, who is tackling the hilly route on a singlespeed bike. The route is peppered with highlights: from Hohenneuffen Castle to the Höllenlöchern, where erosion has eaten bizarre rock formations into the karst. And there are always fantastic views across the Ländle. On the last descent, we hurtle down the so-called Ziegelsteige to Bad Urach. A route steeped in history. Stefan remembers: "I still remember how we tested the first Gustav M. here together with Uli Stanciu." Today, the disc brake developed by the Swabian inventors is considered a milestone in bike technology.
Back in the cauldron, I lie down on the grass on Schlossplatz for a while. Baroque fountains are splashing and the Fantastischen Vier are blaring out of a ghetto blaster somewhere: "Summer, sun, sunshine is what I love to listen to." That's how it is.
Information about mountain biking in Stuttgart
RIDING TECHNIQUE AND GUIDED TOURS
At Flowride (Bikes & Rides, Lerchenstr. 22, www.flowride.de), you can book riding technique and wrenching seminars. Also: the "Traufride", a stage ride along the northern edge of the Swabian Alb, and trail weekends. Rides with locals: meeting point on Saturdays at 2 p.m. at the Transvelo shop (Strohberg 7-9, www.transvelo.de).
BIKE-SHOPS
Flowride, Lerchenstraße 22 (Tel. 0711/40746709, www.flowride.de),
Bikes 'n' Boards, Tübinger Straße 55 (Tel. 0711/51872402, www.bikesnboards
.de),
Subseven Cycles, Reinsburgstraße 68a (Tel. 0711/3589315, www.subseven-cycles.de), Transvelo, Strohberg 7-9 (Tel. 0711/6492153, www.transvelo.de),
Rad und Reisen, Arnoldstraße 1 (Tel. 0711/532127, www.radundreisen.de),
Bike & Style, Notkerweg 2 (Tel. 0711/4141515, www.bike-and-style.de),
Bike Sport, Hauptstätter Straße 154 (Tel. 0711/6070066, www.bikesport-stuttgart.de).
CARDS
Compass map no. 775 (Stuttgart and surroundings), 1:75,000, no. 776 (Schönbuch, Schurwald), 1:50,000, no. 779 (Swabian Alb), 1:50,000. Indispensable: the Radel-Thon map with the complete cycle path network and all public transport stops: order for 4.50 euros at the i-Punkt in Königstraße 1a or by e-mail: radel-thon@stuttgart.de. Digital: MagicMaps, Tour Explorer 25 Baden-Württemberg (Info www.magicmaps.de).
DIRT-SPOTS
Stuttgart dirt rider Tim Nemelka reveals the nearest dirt spots in the city. High training level: fourcross track in Großheppach. Four race tracks, dirt line with seven large doubles, trick jump with jump ramp. Info: www.freebikers-weinstadt.de. Nice park for experienced riders: Bikepark Aichwald. BMX/4X track with nine jumps. One washboard, four banked turns. Three dirt lines with twelve jumps and a wallride. Saturdays from 1 - 5 pm. Admission four euros. www.bsc-aichwald.de Good spot for jump beginners: Dirtpark Rommelshausen. Three dirt lines with four tables each, drops for practising, wallride, step-up/step-down box. Free entry. www.bikepark-kernen.de 50 kilometres away, but good: Bikepark Gomaringen. Fourcross suitable for competitions, CC course, two dirt lines, Northshores. www.bikepark-gomaringen.de Not always in top condition, but only eight kilometres away: Dirtline Sommerrain (S-Bahn stop).
The insider tips from Stuttgart locals
Breakfast first: The Academie der schönsten Künste (Charlottenstr. 5) or on Sundays at the Brunch at Zadu (Reuchlinstr. 4b) - make a reservation! If you're in a hurry, it's better to pick up coffee and rolls (for on the go) at the Market hall (Dorotheenstr. 4). After the tour, the best place to cool down is in one of Stuttgart's beer gardens: The Czechs on the Karlshöhe (Humboldtstr. 44) is on every local's best list. also on top: the Tea house in Weissenburg Park (Hohenheimer Str. 119). Of course, the Swabian Maultaschen are a must - and nowhere are they better filled than at the Todisan original snack bar (Bolzstr. 7). According to old Swabian tradition, the kitchen of the Cooking bas (Immenhofer Str. 33). Giant burgers sizzle at Udo's Snack (Calwer Str. 23) or at XXL Burger (Steinstr. 9) on the grill. Over coffee behind the shop window of the Suite 212 (Theodorheuss Str. 15) you will definitely be seen, but a beer in the converted toilet block is even more popular Palace of the Republic (Friedrichstr. 27): here the filthy downhiller is on a par with the posh banker. Then a detour to the Hans im Glück fountain neighbourhood (near the town hall). Very trendy there: Vegi Voodoo King (vegetarian, falafel!), Mata Hari (trendy bar) or the wacky Café White (oldstyleKult). also cool: Cape Tormentoso (seafaring ambience). And from 11 p.m. to Transit Bergamo with DJ.
The best MTB tours in Stuttgart
- Tour 1: Castles tour (29 km, 600 m elevation gain, 2:00 h)
- Tour 2: Rössleweg (54 km, 1000 m elevation gain, 4:00 h)
- Tour 3: TV tower trails (20 km, 500 m elevation gain, 2:00 h)
- Tour 4: Schurwald (24 km, 730 m elevation gain, 2:30 h)
- Tour 5: Bad Urach (39.4 km, 1070 m elevation gain, 3:30 h)
- Tour 6: Schönbuch (45.4 km, 800 m elevation gain, 3:00 h)
You can download the entire article on mountain biking in Stuttgart with roadbooks for the MTB tours and GPS data below.
