Monika Krämer didn't promise too much. "Here in the northern Black Forest, you have a huge network for gravel bikers," she told me on the phone. Now I'm standing with my cycling buddy Martin on the summit of the Hornisgrinde, the highest mountain in the northern Black Forest, and we can hardly get enough of the distant view.
Yes, Monika was right. No wonder, as the cycle traffic manager for the district of Freudenstadt, she knows every little side route, every dirt track and every forest road junction, no matter how remote. Her promise on the phone: "You can explore the national park on a gravel bike, ride on forest paths, along small roads without car traffic or cruise through river valleys that lead from Schwarzwaldhof to Schwarzwaldhof."
Enjoy the morning atmosphere
This made our mouths water even more, and two weeks later we packed our bikes onto the train. After a short journey, we are already breathing in the spicy Black Forest air in Freudenstadt in the northern Black Forest. The small town lies on the edge of the Black Forest National Park - and is the perfect place if you're looking for some relaxation on two wheels and hope not to accidentally end up in a big city. On the contrary: there is a bit of town with pretty half-timbered houses in the centre - and lots of forest all around.
Early the next morning, we sit on our bikes and look into the distance, where the summit of the Hornisgrinde, our destination for the day, can be glimpsed in the dense sea of forests. After a few turns of the pedals, we leave the town behind us. The first few kilometres are a relaxed downhill ride through quiet forest, enjoying the morning atmosphere. We have set ourselves quite a challenge for today, with over 75 kilometres and 1,200 metres of altitude ahead of us - a real challenge.
Where the forest can become wilder
But first we pedal through the idyllic Murg Valley without much effort. In Schönmünzach, the most beautiful ascent to the Hornisgrinde awaits us. While the busy B500 main road passes by on the other side of the main ridge, the Schönmünzach valley is really quiet. The road is tarmac here, but is closed to motorised traffic further up.
The protected forest around the Hornisgrinde has been a nature reserve for over 100 years and parts of the area have been part of the newly established Northern Black Forest National Park since 2014. "A real benefit for the region," said Monika. "On the 10,000 hectares between Baden-Baden and Freudenstadt, the forest can become a little wilder again."
There are still several kilometres of mountain road ahead of us before we reach the shores of Lake Mummel at 1,036 metres above sea level. We heave our gravel bikes around bend after bend through an increasingly wild mountain world: the scenery is characterised by thick moss, dense undergrowth and fallen trees.
Legendary Mummelsee
At the top, Lake Mummelsee lies black between steep, densely forested mountain flanks. According to old legends, the peaty waters of the highest karst lake in the Black Forest are home to nymphs who live at the bottom of the lake under the strict care of their father and mermaid king. And the German writer Hans Jakob Christoffel von Grimmelshausen even made the mountain lake the starting point of a journey to the centre of the earth in his novel "Simplicissimus". Nowadays, you can only rest here until the next group of tourists turns the corner.
In view of the good connections via the Black Forest High Road, it's no wonder that the place no longer has much of a mythical air about it: busloads of tourists are carted in; the lake is perfectly enclosed by a wide, barrier-free path, snack stalls huff and puff along the shore and the very lazy on foot sail across the brown water in pedal boats, which is fed by the high moor of the Hornisgrinde.
But further up, the Hornisgrinde shows a different face: the forest-free summit turns out to be a wild, rugged heath landscape. Mountain pines bizarrely shaped by the wind flank the narrow track road, which is closed to cars. The upland moor overgrown with berry bushes, heather and moor grass almost completely covers the southern summit and reminds us of Scandinavian landscapes. The view sweeps far and wide, the Rhine valley is hidden under a layer of cloud and the distant Vosges peaks rise out of the haze in the west. The tarmac ends at the Bismarck Tower; here we turn round again.
Downhill curves into the Murg Valley
Now we cross the Black Forest High Road: Wwwuuuuusch! A motorbike races past. Wwwwusch! Another one in a hurry. The Black Forest High Road is considered one of the most beautiful mountain roads in Germany. Unfortunately, because word has got around, day trippers, local motorists, motorcyclists and thundering lorries clog up the idyllic route. Fortunately, we only ride a few metres on the B500 on our gravel bikes. Rrroooar! Another lunatic! But that doesn't bother us any more. At Ruhestein, we turn off onto a car-free side road in a class of its own: the Rotmurg-Winterseiten road winds downhill on potholed tarmac into the Murg Valley - and from here we simply follow the cosy Murg Valley cycle path back to Freudenstadt.
We end the day in a small pub on the market square. And this market square is not just a square, but an area of such epic size that it challenges every orientation. The largest in Germany! If you can't find a place to stop for a bite to eat here, you're really out of luck - we find a cosy corner in the "Zum Speckwirt" inn and are amazed at the menu: Swabian cuisine as far as the eye can see! Oh, that's right, Freudenstadt is definitely no longer in the Baden part of the Black Forest, but already in the centre of Swabia. But let's be honest: Flädlesuppe, Maultaschen and Käsespätzle are not just the perfect way to end the day. They also provide plenty of energy for tired legs. They also provide plenty of energy for tired legs. One last round of Swabian specialities, then we'll be back in the saddle tomorrow morning - following in the footsteps of the raftsmen and brewers who conquered the valleys here long before us.
Two cycle tour tips around Freudenstadt in the Black Forest
Tour characteristics
If you cycle in Freudenstadt, you can't avoid the mountains. Lovely hills and some really big mountains such as Hornisgrinde or Kniebis characterise the northern Black Forest around the town of 25,000 inhabitants. The river valleys of the Kinzig, Murg and Co. provide frequent opportunities to relax on flat river cycle paths. The well-developed network of cycle paths offers routes for every taste - and the many refreshment stops provide the necessary energy boost.
Tour 1: National park tour to the Hornisgrinde
- 76.5 km
- 1,260 metres altitude
The tour takes you right into the emerging wilderness of the Northern Black Forest National Park and is definitely a sporty ride: 75 kilometres and almost 1,300 metres in altitude - you'll need a lot of power in your legs or a good motor! Most of the route is on cycle paths and side roads, a good 20 kilometres of which are on gravel paths. The highest point of the day is the 1,164 metre high Hornisgrinde, which is about halfway along the route.
You can find the GPS data for the tour on the DK tour portal:
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Tour 2: Raftsmen and brewers
- 57.9 km
- 1,140 metres in altitude
The tour follows the Kinzig valley, one of the most important valleys in the northern Black Forest. In Alpirsbach, the historic town centre with its monastery and brewery beckons. But it's better to stick to non-alcoholic beer: On the return journey to Freudenstadt via Schenkenzell and along the Kleine Kinzig reservoir, there are some tough climbs. The gravel section is around 40 kilometres long.
You can find the GPS data for the tour on the DK tour portal:
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Information and tips for a short cycle trip to Freudenstadt
The city
Freudenstadt lies on a high plateau in the northern Black Forest. The town of around 25,000 inhabitants borders on the Black Forest National Park, a 10,000-hectare nature reserve that is home to a wide variety of flora and fauna. The surrounding area is characterised by a varied landscape of valleys and hills and offers numerous cycling and hiking trails. The town was founded in 1599.
Best time to travel
The temperate western European climate offers ideal conditions for cycling tours from spring to late autumn.
Journey
Freudenstadt is located in the heart of the Black Forest and is easy to reach by train.
Accommodation
Hotel Teuchelwald: Situated on the outskirts of Freudenstadt, it's quite a box, but with beautiful views, good rooms and good food - in other words: a good starting point for long cycle tours.
hotel-teuchelwald.de
Food & Drink
Swabian cuisine: Typical Black Forest: There is hearty regional cuisine with Swabian specialities such as "Flädlesuppe" soup, Maultaschen, dumplings, cheese spaetzle and lots and lots of meat.
To the Speckwirt: The restaurant on the market square in Freudenstadt pulls out all the stops when it comes to Swabian culinary delights. Here the beer foams, here the atmosphere foams.
speckwirt-fds.de
Worth seeing
The Black Forest is the star in Freudenstadt - and you can see it wherever you look. Second place goes to: Germany's largest market square with its arcades and 50 water fountains, lined with striking, historic buildings.
Bike service
Cycling Glaser: Bike shop and workshop service in Freudenstadt. Address: Katharinenstraße 8, 72250 Freudenstadt.
Info
General information and tour tips can be found on the official homepage of Freudenstadt, freudenstadt.de
A wide range of tours on the city's own portal: regio.outdooractive.com/oar-freudenstadt-lkr/en/
