Fontane cycle route in the Mark Brandenburg: Cycle tour through the Ruppin Lake District
Thomas Widerin
· 14.04.2024
The signposted Fontane cycle route runs in several individual stages between Oranienburg and Potsdam through the Ruppiner Seenland and Havelland. We have limited ourselves to the north of Brandenburg on this cycle tour. The Ruppiner Seenland region has a particularly varied landscape. The crystal-clear lakes with their countless waterways, forests, meadows and pretty little towns are a delight for cyclists interested in nature and cultural history.
And there are many places here that the famous poet Theodor Fontane, to whom the cycle route owes its name, visited and described in his works. Novels such as "Effi Briest" and "Der Stechlin" are considered timeless classics of German literature, but his famous works also include the five-volume "Wanderungen durch die Mark Brandenburg". It took him almost 30 years to write them. The "Wanderungen" are based on explorations of the region that the poet, born in 1819, undertook on foot, by train and carriage from 1859 onwards. So here we are on a search for historical traces by bike.
Oranienburg - a castle as a token of love
We start right in front of the imposing Oranienburg Palace, one of the most beautiful and important baroque buildings in the Mark Brandenburg. And it is here that we meet the poet Theodor Fontane for the first time. He was very moved by the love story that forms the basis of parts of the castle's architecture and name.
Electress Luise Henriette (1627-1667) enjoyed accompanying her husband, Elector Friedrich Wilhelm, on his hunting trips and raved about the fertile countryside and expansive views, which reminded her of her Dutch homeland. The prince then gave her the entire area as a gift and had the palace completely extended. Luise called it Oranienburg.
Today, the castle museum presents an extensive collection of various works of art. There is also plenty on offer outside. We marvel at the extensive, lovingly landscaped garden with various themed areas. An oasis of peace and relaxation.
We follow the banks of the gently flowing Haveland you head out into the vast countryside. The continuously asphalted cycle path winds its way through extensive meadows with colourful fields of flowers and a few groups of trees. The route becomes slightly hilly around the small, somewhat dreamy villages of Neuholland and Liebenberg.
The mixed forest here is ancient. We discover a small farm shop right next to Liebenberg Castle and Estate. We are not the only ones who enjoy the delicious regional specialities. Many cyclists enjoy their break here.
We cycle past Meseberg Palace, which is now used as a guesthouse and conference centre for the German government, towards Gransee, our destination for today. We cycle through the Fontane Gate into the medieval town centre of Gransee. Shimmering red-brown walls, narrow alleyways and small green spaces characterise this somewhat mysterious town. At the end of the first day, we enjoy a delicious coffee and cake in a pub garden.
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Fontane's favourite dish in the Ratskeller
After Gransee, for Fontane "the firmest town in the county of Ruppin", the route continues through a typical Brandenburg landscape to Zernikow. Around 1740, there was a special animal farm here: silkworms were bred there. Today, the Zernikow estate is a popular venue for exhibitions and readings. At the heart of the estate, the rustic Café Bric a Brac offers special crêpes at the weekend. We don't miss out on this either.
The fully tarmac cycle path now leads through the middle of a large nature reserve. We enjoy the clean air and the flair of the lake landscape. In Neuglobsow, we wonder why the wooden sculpture "Queen of the Night" was created here and who has sat on the "blasphemer's bench".
The scenic highlight is the beautiful Stechlinsee lake with its particularly clear water and shady banks. Fontane connoisseurs know that "The Stechlin" is also the title of a 500-page novel about the nobility of the Brandenburg region, one of his greatest literary successes.
After a short detour to the visitor centre of the Stechlin-Ruppiner Land Nature Park in Menz, we enjoy a special guided tour of Rheinsberg. Mrs Schmidt-Ulbrich, the local tourism manager, fascinates us with her explanations of "her" town, which she presents with heart and soul and passion. On the large forecourt of Rheinsberg Castle, she enthuses about the picturesque location and the particularly successful blend of nature, art and architecture.
She also takes us to the local Ratskeller, where we have dinner. On the menu for us: "Fontane's favourite dish" - Old Brandenburg braised beef with ginger sauce, red cabbage with apples and potato dumplings with bread butter. Enjoy your meal!
Excursion to the "Beautiful Nun"
Today's day trip takes us from Rheinsfeld via Köpernitz to Lindow. The landscape alternates between mixed forest and monoculture. The special attraction of this section is the many, mostly unnoticed beauties that lie a little off the beaten track. For example, a small, partly overgrown forest cemetery outside Köpernitz, where a countess found her final resting place. Information boards about the work of Theodor Fontane accompany us everywhere.
And we keep coming across other cyclists interested in culture, most of them travelling on e-bikes. However, we cycle without battery support, which is easy to manage given the relatively low elevation gain without any really challenging climbs.
In Lindow, a small-town jewel, we get off our bikes. We want to take a closer look at the ruins of the monastery with its partly overgrown park. Fontane also mentioned the monastery in "The Stechlin". Several legends have grown up around the walls. For example, the one about the noble Miss Amelie, who fell in love with the poor peasant boy Jacob and was therefore banished to the monastery by her parents. She was able to escape with Jacob through a hole that the lover had dug in the convent wall. However, the couple is said to have drowned in the nearby Wutzsee lake. Today, the sculpture of the "Beautiful Nun" in the middle of the lake is a reminder of this tragic story.
Highlight: In the Fontanestadt
On the way from Rheinsberg to the small fishing village of Zippelsförde, we cycle through extensive arable fields and rapeseed fields. Bright yellow as far as the eye can see. In Molchow, paddlers cavort on the Rhin, a tributary of the Havel. Fontane found the name of the settlement "dark-sounding", but enjoyed the "bright and light atmosphere" of the small village and the surrounding lakes.
In the late morning, we reach the birthplace of the famous poet: Neuruppin, which is also known as the city of Fontane. It is one of the largest towns in terms of area Germany. But above all, Neuruppin has a lot to offer culturally - and especially for Fontane fans. That's why we want to spend a little more time here.
Our bikes take us into the historic city centre, which is surrounded by a rampart and plenty of greenery. Prussian architecture characterises the townscape - but also the successful mix of old and modern. For example, the building that houses the Löwen Pharmacy, where Theodor Fontane was born, who, incidentally, initially trained as a pharmacist before deciding to become a writer.
Nearby, on Fontaneplatz, there is also a monument to the poet. With his legs crossed and a pen in his hand ready to write, he has been sitting on this spot since 1907 and seems to be closely observing the hustle and bustle in his neighbourhood.
In fact, it is a favourite photo motif for countless tourists. As we continue on our way through the city, we stop at many other beautifully designed resting places with interesting information about the writer's work.
The day ends for us in the middle of the meadow in the Fontane Festival Garden. Uta, the organiser of the festival, welcomes us there with delicious pizza. Jannika and Itta from the Ruppiner Seenland tourism association also join us and we enjoy the balmy summer evening together.
The "Kuhhorster"
At the end of our tour, we want to cycle a few more kilometres through a quieter area. Today's destination is the small district of Kuhhorst in the municipality of Fehrbellin. The cycle route alternates between farmland, open meadows and sections of forest. We talk very little ourselves. Our eyes wander around and we enjoy the peace and quiet. No traffic, few people - simply marvellous!
Then suddenly music sounds from afar. A short time later, we are greeted by a colourful sign reading "Welcome to the Kuhhorsters". It seems that half the village has gathered in the courtyard of a simple inn. A somewhat outdated band is playing country music, people are dancing, barbecuing and laughing. We sit down and learn a lot about this cheerful village community, which consists of just a few families. Everyone knows everyone here. They also proudly tell us about a special project: "Die Kuhhorster" is a regional brand with an extensive range of food products. People with disabilities help to grow fruit and vegetables here, as well as lovingly producing and selling jams, biscuits and pasta. We enjoy a regional snack surrounded by these friendly people. And we are certain that Theodor Fontane would have felt at home here too.
Information and tips for cycling along the Fontane cycle route
Arrival (start Oranienburg)
Car: The B 96 will take you from the north via Fürstenberg/Havel to Oranienburg once along the motorway.
through the Ruppiner Seenland. From the south, you can reach Oranienburg via the A10 and A111 motorways.
Bus: Bus routes of the VBB (www.vbb.de) and OVG (www.ovg-online.de)
Railway: Oranienburg railway station, long-distance and local DB lines (www.bahn.de),
Regional trains VBB (www.vbb.de) and S-Bahn direct from Berlin (www.sbahn.berlin)
TIP: On inter-regional trains, it is essential to reserve bike transport in advance.
The Fontane cycle route in the Ruppiner Seenland in 5 days
DAY 1: Oranienburg to Gransee, 52 km, 180 m elevation gain, approx. 4.5 hours, 95 % paved, 5 % unpaved.
Very beautiful landscape, mixed forests, fantastic views, several castles, pretty villages
DAY 2: Gransee to Rheinsberg, 47 km, 200 m elevation gain, approx. 4 hours, 95 % paved, 5 % unpaved. Varied landscape, lakes and mixed forests, castles, nature park, beautiful Rheinsberg
DAY 3: Day trip to the "Beautiful Nun" in Lindow (Mark), 47 km, 220 m elevation gain, approx. 4 hours, 80 % paved, 20 % unpaved.
Somewhat off the beaten track, often unpaved, but very easy to cycle on, peaceful countryside, estates, lakes
DAY 4: Rheinsberg to Neuruppin26 km, 130 m elevation gain, approx. 2.5 hours, 85 % paved, 15 % unpaved. Extensive arable and rapeseed fields, unpaved sections very easy to cycle on, highlight is Neuruppin, the birthplace of Theodor Fontane
DAY 5: Neuruppin to Paulinenaue, 34 km, 60 m elevation gain, approx. 3 hours, 95 % paved, 5 % unpaved.
Quiet hinterland, little traffic
The GPS data for the tour
The GPS data for the cycle tour on the Fontane cycle route can be found in the DK tour portal at Outdooractive:
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Overnight stay, eating, drinking
Extensive offer along the entire route, information: www.ruppiner-seenland.de/uebernachten and www.ruppiner-seenland.de/erlebnisse/fuer-geniesser
Gransee: Landlust Hotel. Lovingly furnished rooms, very courteous owner, quiet location just outside Gransee, from 100 euros per person with breakfast, www.landlusthotel.de
Schlosswirt Meseberg: Castle ambience, terrace, excellent regional cuisine, www.schlosswirt-meseberg.de
Rheinsberg: Zum jungen Fritz. Guest and lodging house with history, 90 euros per person with breakfast,
tasty regional delicacies, www.junger-fritz.de
Neuruppin: Hotel Waldfrieden. Very friendly service, nice rooms, family-run, guest garden, directly on the Ruppiner See, from 120 euros double room with breakfast, super tasty food in the guest garden with lake view, www.waldfrieden-neuruppin.de
Municipality of Fehrbellin: Dorfkrug Kuhhorst. Typical small inn, very simple, friendly,
guest garden, quietly situated in the middle of beautiful countryside, from 60 euros double room with breakfast,
fresh barbecues are often prepared in the garden, www.diekuhhorster.de
Worth seeing
Oranienburg Palace: Magnificent building with great outdoor facilities, www.oranienburgerleben.de
Gransee local history museum: With lots of local info, www.gransee.de
Zernikow Estate: Quaint café "Bric a Brac", www.gutzernikow.de
Rheinsberg Castle: Exceptional ambience, beautiful lake, www.rheinsberg.de
Lindow monastery ruins, Sage "Schöne Nonne", Wutzsee, www.lindowmark.de
Neuruppin: Many different "Fontane topics", collected information on www.neuruppin.de or better: www.tourismusneuruppin.de
Around Fontane
Events for culture lovers: www.fontanekosmos.de
For bookworms: Fontane bookshop in Neuruppin, www.havelbuch.de
For connoisseurs: Fontane wine, sparkling wine, liqueur, brandy and whisky, www.weinhausneuruppin.de
For those seeking relaxation: Fontane Therme, www.resort-mark-brandenburg.de/fontanetherme
Cycling infrastructure
The entire cycle route with all sections and detours is well signposted. Tip: We recommend taking a cycle map with you.
Bike hire and bike repair available in all larger towns, www.ruppiner-seenland.de/in-die-natur/radfahren
Maps & information about the region: Ruppiner Seenland, Havelland, Fontane cycle route
Very good information about the travel regions:
- Ruppiner Seenland at: www.ruppiner-seenland.de
- Havelland: www.dein-havelland.de
- Special information about the Fontane cycle route: www.fontanerad.de
