Our three-day stage tour starts in Marktredwitz, on the eastern edge of the Fichtelgebirge. In terms of scenery, you can look forward to many summit experiences with obscure stone pinnacles, rock labyrinths and so-called block seas. In terms of riding technique, you can look forward to long trail passages, which can also be challengingly blocked, twisty and rooty. Behind some bends, there are also ramps or short carrying passages. But relaxation is also provided: the Fichtelsee is a local chill-out zone with a beer garden and bathing beach.
From Marktredwitz, we head up to the main ridge of the Fichtelgebirge. The view soon sweeps across the fields to the challenges of the day: the peaks of Kösseine, Hohe Matze and Platte. Then follows the trail ascent to the Wenderner Stein and on to the Luisenburg. A partly blocked trail descent leads along the rock labyrinth to the open-air theatre. The enjoyment is followed by a long gravel ascent to the Kösseine, one of the highest peaks in the Fichtelgebirge. The terrain constantly changes between forest paths and single trails. Up to the Seehaus, constant climbs demand pressure on the pedals. The finale is heralded by a beautiful trail descent to the Fichtelsee lake. The strenuous root path through the Bocksgraben awaits on the way to the day's destination in Fleckl.
Marktredwitz railway station, parking facilities north-west of the station in the area of Schulze-Delitzsch-Straße.
The trails at higher altitudes are peppered with stones up to the size of melons, which are firmly anchored in the forest floor. You can easily slip off here in the rain. Otherwise, always take it in your stride!
Bullhead House in Fleckl, bullheadhouse.de
Over the two highest peaks of the Fichtelgebirge to the north. Alternative: If you want to save 470 metres in altitude and 12 km, take the chairlift from Fleckl to the Ochsenkopf. However, you will miss out on a few trails near Warmensteinach. The descent from Ochsenkopf to Gasthaus Karches is blocked in the upper section. The trail has been widened from the Weißmainquelle. From Bischofsgrün to the Schneeberg, almost 500 metres of climbing await! Reward: One trail follows the next all the way down to Weißenstadt am See. At Rudolfstein, you pass impressive rock towers. Two longer climbs await you on the Waldstein and Epprechtstein before you reach the finish. The climbs are mostly moderate and the trails are more flowy than in the high Fichtelgebirge. At Epprechtstein through old granite quarries, the last trail ends directly at the Waldschmiede inn.
Fleckl, Bullhead House (Ochsenkopf Süd chairlift)
Gasthaus zur Waldschmiede, Vorderes Buchhaus 3, Kirchenlamitz, Tel. 09285/9687808
The longest stage leads over the Großer Kornberg and the Eger Valley back to Marktredwitz. After the dark forests in the high Fichtelgebirge, the more open landscape around the Eger valley offers a welcome change. The crossing of the Großer Kornberg on long trails once again challenges the mountain gears. Later, the route follows the idyllic Eger Valley for ten kilometres. This stage is technically easy. At most, the ascent to the Kornberg has a few bumpy root passages in store. The ascent from Egertal to Steinberg is strenuous - and there are two more hurdles to Marktredwitz that should not be underestimated. In Arzberg, you pass huge disused porcelain factories, a final singletrail over the Kohlberg, then it's all about coasting to the finish.
Kirchenlamitz (Hinteres Buchhaus district), car park at the Gasthaus zur Waldschmiede inn
The third stage has no technical challenges. Only the trail over the Großer Kornberg has a few roots and stones. Of course, this takes more effort on the uphill. But the other climbs on the stage are not without ramps either.
Café Egerstau in Egertal (km 28.3) and the Pino ice cream parlour in Arzberg (km 48)
The two north-south axes of the A9 (Munich - Leipzig) and A93 (Regensburg - Hof) motorways take in the Fichtelgebirge. Depending on your destination, take the Bayreuth or Bad Berneck exits on the A9 motorway. Take the A93 motorway to Marktredwitz. Between Bad Berneck and Marktredwitz, the B303 runs through the centre of the mountains, passing all the important towns. Distance Fichtelberg from: Munich 250 kilometres, from Frankfurt 300 kilometres, from Leipzig 200 kilometres.
By train: The nearest railway stations are in Bayreuth and Marktredwitz. Continue with the regional bus (VGN). Bicycle transport on request. Info bahn.de and vgn.de, or on weekends and public holidays with the bicycle bus (bus with bike trailer). Info frankenwald-mobil.de
Bikers ideally stay in the heart of the Fichtelgebirge, in the area around the villages of Fleckl, Fichtelberg and Warmensteinach. However, Bischofsgrün on the north side of the Ochsenkopf is also a recommended tour base. Overview at erlebnis-ochsenkopf.de
Especially recommended:
Bullhead House, Fleckl 13, Warmensteinach/Fleckl. The all-in-one address for bikers. Accommodation, bike shop and hire. The crew around boss Peter Hanke also organises riding technique courses, trail camps and tours. These include a multi-day Fichtelgebirgs-Cross with a high proportion of trails.
Landhaus Preißinger, Bergstraße 134 in Warmensteinach, landhaus-preissinger.de. Great location on a slope. Relaxation after the bike tour is provided in the wellness area.
Fichtelberg Tourist Information Centre, Gablonzer Str. 11, 95686 Fichtelberg, Tel. 09272/969030, erlebnis-ochsenkopf.de
The hub of the bike area is the 1024 metre high Ochsenkopf, which is accessible by lifts from the north (new 10-seater gondola lift in Bischofsgrün) and south (Fleckl). Both lifts are currently being overhauled and should be back in operation by spring 2024. As soon as the last snow has melted away, the bikers will take over on the southern flank. A 2.3-kilometre-long downhill route awaits with a number of obstacles. A few fun trail variants also branch off along the way. There is also a fun park with numerous Northshore elements in the area of the lift valley station in Fleckl. Novices can try their hand at future challenges on technical courses of varying difficulty. Info: ochsenkopf.info
The largest rock labyrinth in Europe is well worth a visit. South of Wunsiedel, it looks as if giants were playing marbles in ancient times. Thousands of granite blocks lie criss-crossed across the landscape, up to the size of houses. The sea of rocks is criss-crossed by corridors, stairs and mini-canyons, some of which are barely shoulder-width wide. Nearby are the towns of Wunsiedel and Marktredwitz, which are also well worth a visit. Info: wunsiedel.de
The thermal spa in Weißenstadt makes it easy to get through a rainy day. The wellness temple on Lake Weißenstadt offers everything you need to make tense muscles supple again: several indoor and outdoor thermal pools. With sauna world. Info: siebenquell.com
You can rely on Goethe when it comes to describing landscapes. Now I am almost afraid of the Fichtelgebirge: "The immense size of the granite masses - without a trace of order or direction - toppled over each other gives a sight, the like of which I have never seen again on all my hikes." It has been around 200 years since the poet visited here. Yet Fichtelgebirge sounds more like a lot of forest than a rock spectacle. And even more important is the question: are there any trails?
"Definitely," asserts Andreas Köppel from Marktredwitz. "You can discover real treasures in the Fichtelgebirge." Köppel may not be able to express himself as eloquently as Goethe. But when the bike enthusiast raves about "his" single trails, you can clearly hear his passion for his home region. Especially when you look at his website. Andreas has worked out and published dozens of tours under the pseudonym "Mountainbike Man". He is particularly proud of his multi-day stage tours, according to the motto: "The adventure begins on your doorstep." And that's exactly what we want to try out over the next three days.
When I arrive in Marktredwitz on the eastern edge of the mountains, Andreas and two friends are already waiting for me at the starting point. A few locals want to join us every day, starting with Martin and Kathrin from the Fichtelgebirgsracer club. Compared to the good-humoured team, the weather looks rather grumpy. The mountains are shrouded in clouds, drizzle drifts through the air. It's almost the middle of May, but spring doesn't seem to be getting off the ground. However, the welcome committee promises that the weather will improve tomorrow. While I get my bike ready, Andreas outlines the route. The route zigzags over the highest peaks. First into the central Fichtelgebirge, over the Ochsenkopf and Schneeberg, then in a northern loop over the Großer Kornberg back to Marktredwitz.
Right on the edge of the village, Andreas turns onto the first path that climbs steeply towards Luisenburg Castle. We gain height as we pass the Mariengrotte at Wenderner Stein. Andreas takes the turn-offs - and there really are a lot of them - with dreamlike confidence. Then the first descent to Luisenburg Castle. A typical Fichtel trail, as we will ride many more over the next few days. Grippy ground, peppered with large stones that bulge out like hazelnuts from a chocolate bar. Quite treacherous in the wet if you approach them at the wrong angle. If you're too slow, the front wheel stops. Unfortunately, we are back at the bottom after the fun, so the next climb is a real pain in the legs. At 939 metres, the Kösseine is one of the highest peaks in the Fichtelgebirge. "I used to train here for Alpine crossings," explains Andreas. He then extended his laps further and discovered more and more trails. This led to the idea of making it a Fichtelgebirge crossing. Unfortunately, the view from the Kösseine is cancelled today. We stand shivering on the terrace of the mountain inn, staring into the clouds. No matter, the trail is the goal. And there are more than enough of them on the ridge trail between Hohe Matze and Seehaus. What's more, the landscape offers all kinds of curiosities, so there's never a dull moment. On the plateau, it looks as if a horde of giants have celebrated a stag party. The summit resembles a field of rubble. Ice age frost is said to have blasted the rock.
In the late afternoon, we finish the stage at Peter Hanke's. He runs the Bullhead House bike station on the Ochsenkopf. Bullhead? The modern age seems to have arrived in the Fichtelgebirge. And business is booming, the place is already full at weekends at the beginning of May. The name is also part of Peter's concept: "I worked in the USA for a long time," says the geology graduate. "I brought my motto for the restaurant back from there: Triple B! That stands for bike, burger and beer." It works! But before we get to try his famous burgers, he wants to show me the downhill route on the Ochsenkopf. Luckily we catch the last lift to the summit, my legs wouldn't be able to cope with another 300 metres in altitude today. Chris Decher, Peter's chief guide, is also part of the party. Even on the ascent, you can see how the trails wind their way through the forest. The higher we float, the more often we discover blocked passages. Peter explains: "That's typical in the Fichtelgebirge: the trails are rocky at the top and flowy at the bottom." As trail builders, the pair know every passage inside out. Peter and Chris chase over the course with corresponding speed. And I'm happy about the less demanding trail variants next to the expert line.
The next day, we make our way to the Schneeberg and further north into the mountains. The dark clouds have cleared and spring is making a tentative advance. We bump along past the Weißmain spring towards Bischofsgrün, where the long ascent to the 1051 metre high Schneeberg begins. Compared to the developed Ochsenkopf, the highest peak in the Fichtelgebirge has a strange atmosphere. The desolate military site with the white tower is a memorial to the Cold War. Its location close to the border with the GDR and Czechoslovakia predestined the Schneeberg as a listening post to the East. Windbreakers are hastily pulled out of the rucksacks. Despite the sun, the wind makes it very chilly up here. No wonder, with an average annual temperature of barely four degrees. But what follows quickly warms us up again. First, the trail down to the Rudolfsattel gets the happiness hormones flowing, then it's the "geological curiosities" that Goethe once wrote about. Bizarre towers stand to the left and right in the sparse forest. Fragile-looking structures that seem to defy all the laws of physics. Slabs of rock, piled up like pancakes. And yet stable enough that you can climb ladders to dizzying heights on the Rudolfstein. The view from up there is magnificent.
Lunch break on the shore of Weißenstädter See. It's only halfway through our stage tour and the impressions are already incredible. But Andreas is already raving about the highlights still to come. For example, the trails on the Großer Kornberg. Or the spectacular rocks in the Eger Valley. German low mountain ranges really are a treasure trove.