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The morning dew is still glistening on the grass outside as Roland Taubinger serves fragrant rolls in the parlour. "More homemade jam?" he asks, placing small bowls of colourful jam on the table. A quick glance around the empty parlour, then he sits down at the table for a moment. There won't be time for that in half an hour, because then his "Gut Wildberg" will be bustling with breakfast guests. "You've chosen the best time to start your cycle tour," he says, although the tip for the early tour through the Elbland naturally came from him. Taubinger is clearly delighted when guests share his enthusiasm for cycling excursions. "When the day wakes up and the mist lifts over the ponds - that's the dream," he says, repeating the most important landmarks. There is talk of water lilies, pheasants and a lighthouse - the day promises to be entertaining.
Plans for the evening
The first stage leads downhill from the cobbled estate, always in the direction of the Elbe. The hills of the valleys on the left bank of the Elbe rise gently behind you and 20 minutes downstream, Meissen Cathedral stands proudly on the castle hill above the porcelain town. But this splendour is hidden behind the bend in the river and the Elbe landscape dominates the picture. The cycle path crosses the river on a steel railway bridge, next to which a slender pillar stretches skywards, holding up the wire cable construction of the neighbouring road bridge and today remaining the only striking structure of more recent date.
The Elbe cycle path is almost deserted at this early hour
There are a few joggers and a young father with a pram. The fresh morning air is a gift and the sun rises slowly behind the vineyards on the right bank of the river. Heavenly. On the way to the narrow-gauge railway, Roland Taubinger had recommended a little detour: Altkötzschenbroda. The street in one of the most beautiful corners of Radebeul is lined with lovingly restored gabled houses in bright colours. Almost every one of them is home to a small pub, a garden restaurant or a shop with a unique offering. It doesn't take much imagination to visualise how this place wakes up during the day and then pulsates with life until late in the evening. The destination of a hearty evening excursion from Gut Wildberg is clear.
Full steam ahead in the morning
A glance at the clock reminds us to hurry, for once in the day. In ten minutes, the "Lößnitzdackel" is due to depart from the "Weißes Roß" stop in Radebeul and the historic steam railway will undoubtedly do so without two dawdling cyclists. The train can be heard and felt long before it stops at the platform, puffing and squeaking loudly. Friendly staff help to load the bikes and a few moments later, a nostalgic journey through Saxony's wine country begins - into the former hunting grounds of the Wettin dynasty, whose princely family held the sceptre here for centuries. Woodland stretches past the window, water recurs time and again, accompanied by the steam of the puffing locomotive. The journey seems far too short when the wheels leave the luggage compartment in Bärnsdorf. But now we are travelling through the middle of the historic Friedewald forest, which used to be a swampy forest until the hunting-mad princes had the water collected in ponds and pools. The result was a marvellous hunting ground, which is still considered a paradise for riders today and is also loved by nature cyclists.
Wide paths through shady greenery make cycling a pleasure
Nature always opens up for baroque moments. This is also the case at the "smallest royal castle in Saxony" next to the Niederer Großteich pond. And as the name of the pheasant castle promises, the cries of pheasants can actually be heard here for the first time. Then silence. Fairytale silence. The first walkers and cyclists will probably appear here later in the morning, transforming the lakeshore next to the castle into a colourful hive of activity. Until then, the secluded pond is perhaps the most romantic place in the area. The most original anyway, because next to the baroque castle, another building attracts attention: a lighthouse.
Games of nobility and grape juice
You don't have to be a sailor to recognise the nautical uselessness of the neat little tower. Nevertheless, it lends the pond a very special charm, especially when you consider its history. For when the Dresden court was tired of hunting, the noblemen looked for other amusements. One of these was to re-enact naval battles, and a pond with a lighthouse seemed the perfect backdrop for this kind of fun. This is how the princely quirk became a charming architectural feature. But the biggest architectural highlight still awaits. A few forest kilometres later, it peeps through the leaves for the first time: Moritzburg Hunting Lodge.
Finest baroque architecture in a fantastic location
Fortunately, the route leads around the entire pond and across the castle island, allowing cyclists to enjoy this gem from many different perspectives. The route leads back through the forest towards the Elbe. Halfway along the route, Roland Taubinger says, you shouldn't miss the water lily pond. In fact, not far from the wide cycle path, a wonderfully enchanted place opens up. The planned rest turns into a few undisturbed hours in front of delicate water lilies that Monet could not have painted more beautifully. And because the extended break had caused the provisions to dwindle, another stop is necessary. he Matyas winery in Neucoswig seems to be the perfect address for this reason, and the impression is not deceptive. The kindness of the waiters obviously continues in the kitchen with the use of fresh ingredients. The dishes on the small menu are really masterfully prepared and accompanied by a Pinot Blanc from the surrounding hills... no words. Once again, plans change and this cycle tour was certainly not the first to come to a surprising end at the winery.
Information on
Accommodation recommendation
- Landhotel Gut Wildberg, www.gut-wildberg.de
- Hotel Goldener Anker, www.goldener-ankerradebeul.de
- Guest house Hoflößnitz, www.hofloessnitz.de
- Churstliche Waldschaenke Moritzburg, www.waldschaenkemoritzburg.de
Worth seeing
- Moritzburg Castle with pheasant castle and lighthouse
- Lößnitz underground railway
- Radebeul Altkötzschenbroda, Karl May Museum Radebeul, Wackerbarth Castle adventure winery, Hoflößnitz winery with information and visitor centre for the Saxon Wine Route
Stop off on the way
- Altkötzschenbroda - Radebeul's most beautiful village centre, www.altkoetzschenbroda.de
- Wine cellar "Am Goldenen Wagen"
- Estate restaurant at the Schloss Wackerbarth winery
- Matyas Winery
Active in the region
- High ropes course and climbing forest in Moritzburg: www.hochseilgarten-moritzburg.de
- Moritzburg Adventure Park, www.abenteuerparkmoritzburg.de
- Segway tours through Radebeul, www.radebeul.de
- Leisure pool "Wellenspiel" Meißen, www.wellenspiel.de
Further route suggestions
Elbe Cycle Route, Saxon City Route, Zille Cycle Route, Moritzburg Pond Route, Röder Cycle Route, Meißner 8,
Elbe-Moritzburg-Lößnitzgrund cycle route
Organiser for cycling and hiking tours
- Corso...the travel agency, www.corso-reisen.de
- Augustus Tours, www.augustustours.de
Further information
Tourism Association Saxon Elbland e. V.
Fabrikstraße 16
01662 Meissen
+49 (0)3521 76350
www.elbland.de
