Editor's ChoiceThe 5 best trail tours in the south of Germany

Gitta Beimfohr

 · 19.02.2024

The trails around Baiersbronn definitely have a sporty character.
Photo: Max Schumann
The selection of the most beautiful trail tours in Bavaria and Baden-Württemberg posed a problem: Can you compare the Allgäu Alps with the descents in Franconian Switzerland? No. We have therefore focussed on the treasures of the low mountain ranges.

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It would be unfair to compare the long trail descents, including the high mountain panorama, with the more opaque forest trails in the Bavarian Fichtelgebirge. At least that's what we thought at the beginning of our selection. But the longer we spent on selecting the southern low mountain range tours - comparing the trail lengths, evaluating the scenic highlights and discussing the respective adventure factor - the more we realised: The low mountain ranges in Bavaria and Baden-Württemberg don't actually have to duck their high alpine brothers in the far south. Sure, they can't compete in terms of panoramic views, but they can certainly compete in terms of trail length and adventure value! Nevertheless, we have left the Alpine tours out of this instalment, but will feature them in the next issue.

So here are our five favourites in the southern low mountain ranges. They include classics, but also trail tours that have only existed since last summer. To our great surprise, two tours from the land of the two-metre rule even made it into the top 5! On the other hand, we left out two tours that should have been included in this selection: Firstly, the kilometre-long Isar trails in the south of Munich - the sword of Damocles of a possible closure still hangs over them. And secondly, the Freiburg trails, because they are more of a downhill trail. So here are our 5 top trail laps in the south:

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Black Forest: Baiersbronn

Beacon tour

Officially intended for overnight stays in the forest: the hidden trekking campsites in the northern Black Forest.Photo: Max SchumannOfficially intended for overnight stays in the forest: the hidden trekking campsites in the northern Black Forest.
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  • Length: 139 kilometres
  • Uphill: 3993 metres in altitude
  • Duration: 3 days
  • Difficulty: medium to difficult

Baden-Württemberg and the Black Forest - two places that probably trigger the same reaction in every trail-savvy biker: Two-metre rule, lots of hikers - you don't even need to go there. Then a few years ago, the town of Baiersbronn in the northern Black Forest declared: "We have designated eleven bike tours with up to 33 per cent single trails!" Sure, that's what these tourism people call single trails, they thought. But now more and more bikers are returning from Baiersbronn and are delighted. Enduro pro and photographer Max Schumann is no exception. He plunged into the forests between Baiersbronn and Sasbachwalden for three days. Not because the distance between the two towns is too great, but because there is so much to do in between in terms of trails, metres in altitude and landscape. Some of the authorised routes even lead through the Black Forest National Park. And then there are the hidden overnight stops in the middle of the forest, which really spice up a three-day excursion. Super tour!

Info lighthouse tour

Highlights of the tour Day 1 leads from Tonbach to Gutellbach (43.6 km/1280 m elevation gain) and already collects the best trails around Baiersbronn, two idyllic cirque lakes and a waterfall in the national park.

Day 2 winds on eventfully through Mittel- and Obertal and climbs up the Hochschwarzwaldstraße, which offers distant views over the Rhine Valley and far into France.

On day 3, the day starts with the ascent to the Hornisgrinde, where a never-ending descent awaits: first on a rocky path, then on the Sasbachwalden flow trail. Then it's back to Tonbach on national park trails (51.2 km/1552 metres in altitude).

Key points With the exception of the built flow trail, the tour is characterised by unspoilt forest trails, some of which are pithy and rooty.

Camp tip You can reach the camp sites in the forest with firewood and toilets: trekking-schwarzwald.de

Franconian Switzerland/ Pegnitz

Pottenstein trails

The sawtooth profile of the tour also collects metres of altitude in the Franconian Switzerland in the alpine area.Photo: Christian PenningThe sawtooth profile of the tour also collects metres of altitude in the Franconian Switzerland in the alpine area.
  • Length: 55.4 kilometres
  • Uphill: 1162 metres in altitude
  • Duration: 5 hours
  • Difficulty: medium to difficult

The forest mountains of Franconian Switzerland rise up between Nuremberg, Bamberg and Bayreuth. Their peaks are just 600 metres high, but there are more interesting things for bikers here anyway: bizarre Jurassic rock towers in the middle of the forest and an extensive network of rivers and streams. Their banks are lushly flanked by trails.

Most of the highlights of the "Fränggische" can now be found on this long, challenging classic tour starting in Pegnitz: A mix of trail and forest path takes direct aim at the Kleiner Kulm, the highest peak in the region at 626 metres. Anyone struggling with this initially rocky and very steep path towards the end should consider turning back, as it remains tricky: this loop includes several steep forest path ramps on its way towards Pottenstein. Both uphill and downhill. Some paths have a velvety-soft surface, while others, with their carpets of roots and rocks, require courageous speed and riding technique. Especially the four-kilometre-long Jägersteig trail and the trail on the Diana rock on the way back. It's better not to ride them in the wet!

Info Pottenstein trails

Highlights of the tour Enduro bikers in good physical condition or with an electric drive will love the trails on this classic tour. Although the long tour reaches its highest point at the 626 metre high Kleine Kulm, it has an almost alpine character due to its rocky forest trails. The surface, direction and difficulty of the kilometre-long paths are constantly changing. Concentration is required to change gear at the right time. But there is also a flowing trail in Ailsbachtal and a beautiful view at Rabenstein Castle.

Key points After Rabenstein Castle, you have to push your bike downhill for a short time, and the four-kilometre-long Jägersteig trail on the way back is extremely slippery when wet. Around 20 per cent of the trails are really difficult to ride. 50 per cent require intermediate riding technique.

Tip In Pottenstein, you can take a look into the underworld of Franconian Switzerland in the Devil's Cave!

Odenwald: Eberbach

All 12

The Alle Farben Trail is just one of 12 highlights in the Neckar basin around Eberbach.Photo: Matthias RotterThe Alle Farben Trail is just one of 12 highlights in the Neckar basin around Eberbach.
  • Length: 42.3 kilometres
  • Uphill: 1721 metres in altitude
  • Duration: 5 hours
  • Difficulty: medium to difficult

The second tour from the federal state with the two-metre rule that has made it into this top 5 selection! This was made possible by the highly committed bike community in Eberbach. After years of persuading the authorities, they were able to celebrate the opening of their Bikeländ trails last year. Twelve of them in total. Arranged in a star shape in the Neckar valley slopes around Eberbach, they are ideal for a long tour around the small town - if you have the necessary time and fitness. However, if you only manage half the distance, it's not too bad, as the town is only ever one descent away. Also important to know: The trails are not only signposted, but also marked according to their respective levels of difficulty. Information that you should definitely take seriously, because where it says black, there is also adrenaline in the form of steep, slippery, rooted and stepped. Even paths marked in red contain traces of rather dark red diagonal traverses. Absolutely top!

Info All 12

Highlights of the tour 23 per cent enduro trails - so when trails are opened up for mountain bikers in Baden-Württemberg, they are opened up properly. The crowds in the Eberbach valley basin were correspondingly large last year, and the trail maintainers had their hands full. Picking out individual trail highlights is difficult because all 12 climbs are rewarded with 12 highlights. However, the Itterberg stands out because it offers a particularly beautiful view over Eberbach and the Neckar valley in addition to the descent.

Bike shop Brands4sport in Friedrichsdorfer Landstraße is planning guided tours and riding technique courses this summer. Which makes perfect sense in Bikeländ if you are not yet technically experienced.

Refreshment tip Meet up at Café Bohne for a stylish hello-wake-up espresso before the tour. And for an après-beer in the Olivia Garten.

Fichtel Mountains

Rock labyrinth

Not a day without a wow moment on this great tour of Marktredwitz.Photo: Matthias RotterNot a day without a wow moment on this great tour of Marktredwitz.
  • Length: 162.2 kilometres
  • Uphill: 3825 metres in altitude
  • Duration: 3 days
  • Difficulty: medium

The Fichtelgebirge mountains huddle inconspicuously against the Bavarian-Czech border with plenty of opaque forest. It is the home of Andreas Köppel from Marktredwitz, who likes to share his trail knowledge with like-minded people on his website under the pseudonym "Mountainbike Man". True to the motto: The adventure begins on your doorstep, he pulled out a three-day ride from his treasure trove for our visit. The rough outline of the tour: it zigzags from Marktredwitz over the highest peaks in the region. First into the central Fichtelgebirge, then over the Ochsenkopf and Schneeberg (highest peak at 1051 metres) and finally in a northern loop over the Großer Kornberg back to Marktredwitz. In detail, you will experience kilometres of trails on this tour, both uphill and downhill. The bike park on the Ochsenkopf with the best burger address in the Bullhead House, gigantic granite rock seas and towers (which already impressed Goethe), the Großer Kornberg and the idyllic Egertal valley.

Info rock labyrinth

Highlights of the tour Day 1 leads from Marktredwitz to Fleckl via the summits of Kösseine, Hohe Matze and Platte - on many trails through rock labyrinths and seas of boulders past the Fichtelsee lake. At the end on a root path through the Bocksgraben (47.3 km/1370 m elevation gain).

Day 2 is a very trail-heavy climb over Ochsenkopf and Schneeberg. The rock towers at Rudolfstein are impressive, and behind them three very flowy trails to Kirchenlamitz are fun (51.7 km/1440 m elevation gain).

Day 3: The longest stage leads through more open terrain via the Großer Kornberg and the Steinberg, the idyllic Egertal valley and a final trail on the Kohlberg back to Marktredwitz (63.2 km/1015 metres in altitude).

Accommodation tips The first night can be spent at the Bullhead House on the Ochsenkopf, bullheadhouse.comand the second at the Gasthaus zur Waldschmiede in Kirchenlamitz, Tel. 0 92 85/9 68 78 08.

Würzburg

M-Way & Käppele

City, country, river - and: passionate locals! The student city of Würzburg is a real trail hotspot. | Photo Matthias RotterCity, country, river - and: passionate locals! The student city of Würzburg is a real trail hotspot. | Photo Matthias Rotter
  • Length: 52.6 kilometres
  • Uphill: 1120 metres in altitude
  • Duration: 5 hours
  • Difficulty: medium

It's been almost eight years since BIKE tour author Matthias Rotter visited the student town on the River Main. Since then, he has experienced many German trail tours, but this long expert tour in the north of Würzburg is firmly etched in his list of favourites. At the time, he was travelling with the city's passionate bikers: Michael Herbig, Larry Westney and Markus Dellinger (Eighty-Aid, Cannondale), Christian Gemperlein (Bike Ahead) and the guys from RSG Würzburg. In other words, real professionals who have spent years putting together this trail route along the banks of the Main. The starting point is the Weingut am Stein vineyard on the northern bypass, then it's 30 kilometres along the right bank of the river to Zellingen. There you change banks and cycle back to Würzburg via Erlabrunner Käppele, a chapel with a beautiful view. You enter the first trail at kilometre five and exit the last one at kilometre 41. Total trail share: 38 per cent (19.8 kilometres). But the best thing is that each trail has its own character.

Info M-Weg & Käppele

Highlights of the tour Vines and forests cover the banks of the Main north of Würzburg. A dense network of paths branches out among them. Even after years, the city's locals keep finding new sections of trail. They have put together their favourites in this tour and sometimes accept an extra climb in order to start the next trail with momentum. The best sections are waiting here: Veitshöchheim, the M-Weg, Eckberg, Retzbach, Eschberg (prepared trails) and Erlabrunner Käppele!

Key points The trails around Veitshöchheim are laid out in quite tight bends around the trees. The descent from Eckberg is steep.

Accommodation tip Würzburg is a university city and has a high density of pubs. On cosy summer evenings, however, the best place to meet is on the old Main Bridge, where you can enjoy a glass of wine and listen to street music.

GPS data for the MTB tours of the Editor's Choice South

Gitta Beimfohr joined the BIKE travel resort during her tourism studies when the Strada delle 52 Gallerie on the Pasubio was closed to mountain bikers. Since Gitta crossed the Alps twice at racing speed, she has favoured multi-day tours - by MTB in the Alps or by gravel bike through the German low mountain ranges.

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