A hop over a tree trunk lying across, then a rather tricky left turn around the bend. With a rustle, Ludwig disappears behind the next bush. I follow behind. A moment later, a long, drawn-out "Aaahhh" resounds through the forest. Even before I can ask what's going on, I can feel for myself why Ludwig is roaring like a rutting stag in front of me. The thorny bushes and branches hanging rampantly in the trail maltreat our forearms and shins like tattoo needles. It probably wouldn't have been so bad if we hadn't sunburnt our arms and faces the day before.
As true Munich residents by choice, we are out on the Isar trails by bike practically every day. However, our after-work range is just enough to reach Schäftlarn, then we change banks and pedal home again. I wonder how the trails continue south of the Brückenwirt? That's what I thought to myself every time I reached the turning point. I'll try it out at some point. So, and sometime is now. Ludwig, Markus and I were shuttled to Scharnitz in Austria yesterday to finally ride the trails from the source of the Isar to Munich. And to say it right away: We had imagined things a little differently. But right from the start:
From the Tyrolean border town of Scharnitz, we crank up the thigh-friendly gravel track towards Hallerangerhaus. At the head of the valley, the snow fields of the highest Karwendel peaks glow in the spring sun. It's eleven kilometres into the valley, but then - at the source - no more trace of idyll: a freshly gravelled footpath with a forest of signs and benches marks the tourist magnet. Unfortunately, the Isar does not gush out of the rock as a small drinking fountain, but bubbles out of the mossy ground in several places at an altitude of 1200 metres. These many small springs join up with the Lafatscherbach stream and then flow together towards Munich. Alongside the other Isar pilgrims on their trekking bikes, we feel a little overpowered with our wide-tyred fullys. "But none of them are going all the way to Munich," says Ludwig as he dips his water bottle into an ice-cold puddle of spring water. We roll back out of the valley on the approach route in a relatively unspectacular manner. But the detour to the source is just part of it. A point of honour.
The Karwendel and Wetterstein massifs stand guard all the way down to Mittenwald. There we change sides of the river and pass Krün and Wallgau on signposted paths. Then past the Au hut - and still no trail in sight. Instead, the small, turquoise-coloured Isar wraps itself in mighty gravel banks. On the other bank, the toll road winds its way to Vorderriß. At Gasthaus Post, we order a cake and get it "with love", as the waitress describes the portion of cream. Later, we leave the Caribbean-looking Sylvenstein reservoir behind us and finally reach the first singletrail just before Lenggries. What a riding technique treat at the end of the day. We now set up camp for the night on one of these gravel banks.
We had imagined a warmer night under the stars. The cold creeps into our sleeping bags at dusk - later it makes itself comfortable in them. Only the morning sun manages to warm up our clammy bivouac equipment again. So we lie down for a while and enjoy the view over the wild, branching waters of the Isar, which wash around the gravel bank of our overnight camp.
After Bad Tölz, the first longer sections of trail finally start to flow, although these can sometimes end in thickets. The real flow, as we know it as Isar bikers, only sets in from the Pupplinger Au near Geretsried. The river is already flowing along here in a bottle-green colour and is soon kept in check by weirs and canals. When we reach Schäftlarn, we are practically back home. This time, however, we don't choose our home route, but try out completely new trail branches on the last 15 kilometres. After all, the trail here even leads into the town on two lanes - to the right and left of the Isar. At Ronnie's kiosk, we acclimatise ourselves for the hustle and bustle of the city with a beer and note: the first day was amazing in terms of scenery, but in terms of riding technique, we are already living on the right side of the Isar.
INFO
The Isar Bavaria's fourth largest river, the Isar rises in the Hinterautal valley in the Karwendel and crosses the German border after 15 kilometres behind Scharnitz. Via Mittenwald and Krün, the Isar flows past Wallgau and Voderriß in the so-called Isarwinkel, through the Sylvenstein reservoir via Lenggries to Bad Tölz. In the area between Wallgau and Vorderriß and between the Sylvenstein reservoir and Lenggries, the Isar is still relatively pristine. The Isar then passes Geretsried and Wolfratshausen before the Isar works canal branches off behind the Pupplinger Au. Via Grünwald, the Isar makes its way through the centre of Munich. Opposite Deggendorf, the Isar flows into the Danube after 290 kilometres. The Isar carries a lot of water, especially in spring when the snow melts.
Origin - Lenggries On the first day, the focus is on panoramic views and experiencing nature. From Scharnitz, the route climbs gently for eleven kilometres to the source in the Hinterautal valley. You mostly cycle along the wide riverbed on gravel paths. Trails close to the river are difficult to find. Most of the route is located in the Karwendel nature reserve. Distance: 80 kilometres and 600 metres in altitude.
Lenggries - Munich More than 30 kilometres of trails are hidden in the woods between Geretsried and Grünwald - from Schäftlarn onwards, there are even trails on both sides of the river. However, many turn-offs and paths also end in undergrowth. Between Lenggries and Geretsried, it is best to stay to the left of the Isar, then change sides. From the Ickinger Wehr to the Zur Mühle inn, you cycle between the Isar and the canal on sometimes very winding and hidden paths. Distance: 60 km and 250 metres in altitude.
Bike We recommend a lightweight fully with 100-120 mm travel - also possible with a hardtail.
Info www.biken-isartal.de
