Stephan is desperate. The display on his computer shows 1799 metres of altitude at the end of the day. Impressive for a low mountain stage! But apparently he doesn't like this figure. There's no other explanation for his strange physical exercises. He lifts the bike over his head. Looks at the device. 1799. He clicks the unruly thing off the handlebars and swings it through the air. 1799, as if frozen. He taps the display. To no avail. The longed-for 1800, a figure he believes to be much more appropriate to the exertions, gets stuck somewhere in the electronics. His mates Klaus and Volker smile. "How about a little climb for good measure?" But that's out of the question today in view of the maltreated leg muscles. The Ruhrhöhenweg has left us exhausted.
You can download the GPS data for the tour free of charge in the download area below.
Many roads lead to the Pott - apart from the four-lane concreted ones. The most logical one for bikers is to simply follow the river that gave the area its name. And to make sure it's not a halfway house, it's best to start right at its source. So far, so logical. However, as cycle paths along the river do not exude a particularly heroic flair, I chose the Ruhrhöhenweg for the ride, which qualifies for real mountain bikers simply because of the "höhen" in its name.
Locals from the Ruhr area will keep me company on the way and want to show me their favourite trails as I ride past. So much for the plan. It didn't take much persuasion to get Klaus Stiller-Marl excited about the first stage. "We cut our teeth on this old classic twenty years ago with rigid bikes," enthuses the head of the Haardbiker club as he gets off the train in Winterberg with Klaus and Stephan in his wake. So he should have known that the high-altitude trail is anything but a ride. But, as we all know, time heals all wounds.
Full of zest for action, we join the "XR" at the source of the Ruhr. This ridiculous trickle is supposed to become a real river? In purely mathematical terms, it should now be 650 metres downhill to the estuary - but that only applies to driftwood. Of course, the XR doesn't care one bit, and so the first ramps are not long in coming. The chain rotates in the lowest gear for what feels like an eternity. In contrast to the metres in altitude, the kilometres add up in slow motion. On the singletrail sections, unruly brambles snag your jersey and trousers, stinging nettles brand your calves. But our urge to discover new trails is awakened: real gems, such as the high trail between Meschede and Freienohl, which has definitely not seen many studded tyres. It's unbelievable how many trails are hidden in the German forests. But the constant ups and downs drain our batteries thirstily. 1799. in 50-metre chunks. Rhythm? Forget it!
My excitement increases on the second stage. Neheim, Menden, Schwerte - the infamous Pott is getting closer. What will await me in the district? "A hundred chimneys, outstretched index fingers, pillars of the smoky sky, altars to the god smoke. Tracks on the ground, corresponding wires in the air. A single, cruel city of small towns, groups of small towns. But above it arches a uniform sky of smoke, smoke, smoke." This is how the writer Joseph Roth dramatically described the Ruhr region in 1930. But all I continue to see on the XR is a jungle of exploding nature. Okay, it's 2015, and Klaus had already shattered my illusions on the first day: "If you're looking for soot and coal, you're about 20 to 30 years too late. The Ruhr has never been as green as it is now!" Only two collieries out of over two hundred are still in operation today. And even their days are numbered.
At Hohensyburg Castle, I am greeted warmly by a dozen or so colourfully dressed bikers. The mountains around the striking Kaiser Wilhelm monument are the home turf of Frank Reuber's group. For over 20 years, the locals from the south of Dortmund have been meeting regularly at Frank's bike shop and making the trails unsafe. Their high-powered bikes give rise to fears. But apparently the sight of me after the ordeal on the Ruhrhöhenweg is so pitiful that the enduro faction takes it easy on the sightseeing tour. To get us in the mood, we take the quarry trail through the undergrowth, then a little rougher and more serpentine over "Little Lake Garda" down to the Ruhr. The northern flanks of the Ruhr Valley in the Ardeygebirge mountains are considerably steep. A natural defence wall that was even of strategic importance in the Middle Ages. Numerous castles between Syburg and Essen on the ridge bear witness to this. The industrialisation of the region also began on the steep slopes of the Ruhr Valley. In the 16th century, it was discovered that the coal seams here rose directly to the surface. This meant that the raw material could be easily mined. It was only when the reserves on the river were exhausted that the Ruhr region expanded far to the north with underground mining. In the idyllic Ruhr Valley, old tunnel portals and a few rusty winding towers are still reminders of the old days.
Change of scenery. On the third day, I interrupt my ride on the high route. I'm looking forward to doing a lap of the slag heaps with the guys from the Herten freeride club. After the overdose of nature, I finally want to get a taste of the urban atmosphere. At least see a chimney! Even without smoke, if you like. And then tuck into a currywurst at the snack bar. "It's all doable," David Breuckmann greets me at the foot of the Hoppenbruch spoil tip, surrounded by a horde of freeriders. And the guys are already pumping uphill with me in tow. But Hoppenbruch has long since ceased to be an ugly, black mountain of rubble. Sweeping single trails wind their way through dense greenery. The lads from the club regularly lend a hand to maintain the trails. It is only at the summit under the wind turbine that the hoped-for panorama opens up. There is no sign of the cruel cities described by Joseph Roth, but on the horizon, deep in the west, there are even a few smokestacks smoking away. Marvellous. I almost regret that I have to return to the Ruhrhöhenweg the next day. But even on the remaining two stages, enthusiastic Ruhr locals are waiting to show me their favourite trails. For example, enduro pro Antje Kramer or bike guide Melanie Hundacker, who knows the Ruhr like no other. And in the end, I'll have over 5000 metres of altitude on the clock. Pretty impressive - for an industrial area.
Ruhrhöhenweg - The four stages (249.9 km and 5258 m elevation gain) (max. 5 points)
1st Winterberg - Arnsberg (76.8 km, 1568 m elevation gain)
The route from Winterberg station to the source of the Ruhr a few kilometres to the north is signposted (Ruhr cycle path). Up to Olsberg you often follow the Ruhr cycle path, but there are deviating paths! From Olsberg onwards there are always steep ramps. After a break in the half-timbered village of Eversberg, the strenuous crossing of Meschede follows. There are some beautiful singletrail sections between Meschede and Freienohl. The last section to Arnsberg is characterised by steep stretches and patchy trail markings. That's why we took the Ruhr cycle path for the last 15 kilometres from Freienohl. Overnight stay: www.arnsberg-info.de
2nd Arnsberg - Syburg (56.7 km, 1244 m elevation gain)
Crazy: the Ruhr makes two 180-degree bends around the town of Arnsberg. At first you roll through some suburbs in a relaxed manner, then forest paths dominate again. Small Hirschberg, large Hirschberg - no hill is left out. A marvellous trail leads down to Neheim. Afterwards, you can pick up the pace on forest tracks as far as Menden. Lunch break in the pedestrian zone. You soon leave the Sauerland behind you and the terrain becomes flatter. The route skilfully avoids civilisation along the Elsebach. After crossing the Ruhr near Schwerte, the route climbs steeply up to Syburg, which already belongs to Dortmund. Overnight tip: Gasthof Hunke, www.haus-hunke.de
3rd Syburg - Baldeneysee/Werden (72.5 km, 1624 m elevation gain)
The most strenuous stage with the highest proportion of trails. It starts with a tricky descent from the Kaiser Wilhelm Monument into the Ruhr Valley, followed by more trails along the slope, with unobstructed views from the high bank between Herdecke and Wetter. Up to Witten, the route is quite trail-heavy, but some steep ramps slow down the pace. Worth seeing: old mines in the Muttental valley. Hill after hill, you zigzag towards the town of Hattingen. Great views from the Isenburg with a trail descent towards Essen. A somewhat arduous passage through the southern foothills of Essen (possibly take the Ruhr cycle path). Then to the second Isenburg. Overnight stay: Hüttenzauber, www.huettenzauber-essen.de
4.
Baldeneysee/Werden
- Duisburg (38.9 km, 822 m elevation gain)
After passing through Werden, you can warm up on the Pastoratsberg. The first 100 metres of elevation gain are soon on the counter. The route makes a loop down to Essen-Kettwig and includes a nice singletrail (route A2). There are also a few trail detours in the area around Landsberg Castle. At Mintard, you pass under the striking motorway bridge that spans the Ruhr Valley at a height of around 70 metres. The Duisburg city forest separates Duisburg and Mülheim. This allows you to bypass these conurbations in the countryside. The last hump is the Kaiserberg before the XR rolls out flat along the Ruhr to the estuary.
Conclusion of the author
"I was almost a little disappointed by the Ruhr region: no chimneys, no thick air, but everything almost as green as back home in Bavaria - only I don't have as many single trails on my doorstep."
...
ZECHE SCENE
Trail is not trail and currywurst is not currywurst. The Ruhrpott bikers also know exactly which addresses are worth visiting before and after the tour. Here is their top list.
BREAKFAST
- Cafe Extrablatt Mega breakfast buffet every day. Marktstr. 42, Oberhausen, tel. 0208/8106950, www.cafe-extrablatt.com
- Citybäcker Best bakery in town with direct access to the Dortmund Bittermark trails! Hagener Str. 229a, Dortmund-Kirchhörde
- Starcafé Original French croissants and baguettes. Rentforter Str. 14 in Gladbeck, tel. 02043/21886, www.starcafe-gladbeck.de
- At Handweiser Landidyll in the middle of the slag heaps. Breakfast café and restaurant. Herner Str. 198 in Herten, Tel. 02366/937180, www.gaststaette-herten.de
CAFÉ | SNACKS | SNACK BAR
- Pommeserei More Ruhrpott is not possible, and if you want, even vegan! Ludgeriplatz 39, Duisburg-Neudorf, Tel. 0203/40639707, www.pommeserei.de
- Bratwursthaus (in the Bermuda triangle) Even Grönemeyer raves about this currywurst. Kortumstr. 18 in Bochum, Tel. 0234/684270, www.bratwursthaus.com
- Dorstfelder Frittenranch Cult currywurst at the trucker snack bar. Lindenhorster Str. 38 in Dortmund, Tel. 0231/614046, www.frittenranch.de
- Café Blond Original Spanish restaurant and tapas bar. Heilige-Geist-Str. 5 in Recklinghausen, Tel. 02361/49040874.
- Central Kebab Haus This kebab is a real alternative to currywurst. Bochumer Str. 129 in Recklinghausen, Tel. 02361/61832.
EAT AND DRINK
- Brandenburger Hof Schnitzel paradise with beer garden. Kirchstr. 67 in Essen, tel. 0201/5718837, www.landgasthaus-brandenburg.de
- Restaurant Chamai Small fish restaurant with exquisite wines at reasonable prices. Elsa-Brändström-Str. 54, Oberhausen, Tel. 0208/22445, www.restaurant-chamai.de
- Roter Hirsch Delicious cuisine after a trail ride on the Ruhrhöhenzug. Hagener Str. 199, Dortmund, Tel. 0231/28678441, www.roterhirsch.com
PARTY | MUSIC | SCENE
Bermuda3eck Bochum In the party centre between Südring and Konrad-Adenauer-Platz, you can party in over 80 pubs. If you get lost here, you won't be coming back any time soon! Tip: The four-day music festival Bochum Total takes place here every year at the beginning of July.
- Räuber & Rebellen Currently a very popular music club. Große-Perdekamp-Straße 2, Recklinghausen, www.raeuberundrebellen.de
- Café Nord Rock music, pub and beer garden. Sundays: pizza flat rate. Viehofer Platz 1, Essen, tel. 0201/231207.
- FZW Concerts and parties under the Dortmunder U. Ritterstr. 20, Dortmund, Tel. 0231/286808910, www.fzw.de
OVERNIGHT STAYS
- An overview of all Bett+Bike establishments along the Ruhr Valley cycle path: www.ruhrtalradweg.de
- Precinct complete: www.ruhr-tourismus.de
- Linuxhotel (Villa Vogelsang) with special rates for groups of 4 or more. Antonienallee 1, Essen-Horst,
Tel. 0201/8536600, www.linuxhotel.de
- Camping Hohensyburg In the centre of the single trail mecca. Syburger Dorfstraße 69, Dortmund, Tel. 0231/774374,
www.camping-hohensyburg.de
- In Hostel Veritas Original budget hostel in a former colliery. Essener Str. 259, Oberhausen,
Tel. 0208/8690884, www.in-hostel-veritas.de
- Naturfreundehaus Ebberg Biker-friendly accommodation on the Ruhrhöhenweg. Ebberg 1, 58239 Schwerte, Tel. 02304/67164, www.nfh-ebberg.de
BIKE-SHOPS
- Reuber-Bike One of the oldest and most renowned addresses in Dortmund. Wellinghofer Amtsstr. 2, Dortmund,
Tel. 0231/487461, www.reuberbike.de
- WatzUp Finest bikes in the heart of Oberhausen. Ebertstr. 90, Oberhausen, Tel. 0208/620162900,
www.watzup-oberhausen.de
- Loco Cycles Pascal and Thomas are bikers with heart and soul. Alfredstr. 399, Essen, Tel. 0201/61588346,
www.loco-cycles.de
- Rockers Bikeshop Dedicated team, high-quality bikes, espresso bar and chill zone. Nordring 47, Bochum,
Tel. 0234/925 6330, www.rockers-bikeshop.de
GUIDED TOURS
- Mountainbike-Ruhrgebiet is the name of the former MTB section of Simply Out Tours. The guides around Karsten and Melanie know the Pott like the back of their jersey pockets. Dahlhauser Str. 103, Essen-Ruhr,
Tel. 0171 426 9026, www.mountainbike-ruhrgebiet.de
- Bikeride mountain bike school From riding technique to bike tours. Auf Steinhausen 28, Dortmund-Witten,
Tel. 02302/9829979, www.bikeride.de
- Berg Rad Touren Guided tours, bike hire and workshops. Am Bleckmannshof 38, Bochum, Tel. 0234/76724, www.bergradtouren.de
CARDS
Supertrail-Map "Ruhr Süd/Ennepetal", scale 1:25,000, delius-klasing.de
Kompass hiking map set 821 "Ruhr area" and hiking map 841 "Hochsauerland" (1:50,000), www.kompass.at
GENERAL INFORMATION
Ruhr Tourismus Centroallee 261, Oberhausen, Tel. 01806/181620, www.ruhr-tourismus.de
MUST SEE
Blast furnaces, winding towers and collieries characterised the Ruhr region for well over 100 years. After the end of coal mining, numerous industrial plants were saved from demolition and still tell their stories from the past today. Particularly worth seeing:
- Zeche Zollverein the UNESCO World Heritage Site is considered the most beautiful colliery in the world. Gelsenkirchener Str. 181, Essen, www.zollverein.de
German Mining Museum with 2.5 km network of tunnels underground. Am Bergbaumuseum 28, Bochum, www.bergbaumuseum.de
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