A summer morning in the forest starts early. Damn early. Even before the first rays of sunlight pierce through the treetops at the speed of light, birds have been chirping through the thin tent wall for a while. I don't manage to count the voices exactly, but I'm sure that all the birds have already arrived. Well, we wanted to live with them in a wilderness flat-sharing community for a weekend - so we'll just have to get through it. I close my eyes again and continue counting.
We pitched our tent somewhere in the forest yesterday. After quite a long day's ride in the saddle. Starting in Tonbach near Baiersbronn, we have planned three fun-filled stages in the forest that are as close to nature as possible. With tent, tarp and cooking utensils in our luggage, we will legally surf through the northern Black Forest - this tour is made possible by the self-developed biker paradise of Baiersbronn, where, in addition to the established hiking routes, there are now also permitted and even signposted trails for mountain bikers. And so-called trekking camp sites, where camping, cooking and making a fire in the middle of the forest is explicitly permitted.
Unfortunately, counting the bird calls no longer leads to the desired success in falling asleep. So I roll out of my sleeping bag. On the way to the stream, I admire Hermann, who is still dangling motionless in his hammock. Two or three handfuls of water on my face and a tingling forest freshness flows through me. When the mocha pot finally bubbles and announces the successful completion of the brewing process, my three travelling companions also begin to stir. The breakfast together around the fireplace can begin.
The trail is the goal, not the stretching
The trail is the destination - Hermann has put together our route according to this motto. As soon as you look at the map, you realise that it's not about covering distance or getting from A to B as directly as possible. I'm certainly confused by the visually dense network of intersecting lines between Baiersbronn, Hornisgrinde and Sasbachwalden. But I trust Hermann. After all, he not only has a doctorate in sports science and is an expert in outdoor topics, he has also called in a joker to help him plan the tour: Jörg Möhrle, hotelier and chef, but above all a passionate biker from Tonbach. He was one of the driving forces behind this bike project in the centre of what is probably the most singletrail-hostile federal state in Germany.
Kilometres of legal bike trails, the highlights of which are now on our route. Jörg loves biking, just like the nature of his homeland, which inspires him time and again. As we take a break in a clearing to enjoy the view, he suddenly hands us some greenery: "Try this! The young shoots of the spruce branches taste fresh and almost sweet. When preserved in syrup, they form the basis for our house drink."
I knew that we would experience nature up close. But I was surprised that we were also biting into the trees. Just like the really fine flavour of the shoots. I'm already looking forward to the drink, but for now I'm off to one of Jörg's favourite rooty trails. His increasingly lively riding style indicates that the turn-off is not far away. And that's right: another big grin over his shoulder, then he makes a bold turn into the next forest track.
After just a few metres of gentle forest floor, the first roots set the pace. I slowly get used to the somewhat sluggish handling of my loaded sports bike. At the start of the tour, there were a few rattles, but by now the root passages have shaken the panniers. My heavy rucksack was also pulling on my shoulders at first. I now find it quite pleasant how it presses my centre of gravity into the saddle. It certainly flies along very compactly.
Over steep steps and through tight hairpin bends. However, the calorie consumption is immense. The huge slice of Black Forest gateau that we indulged in for lunch at a refreshment stop seems to have fizzled out after a few minutes. Almost hypoglycaemic, we pop into a village shop in the afternoon to stock up for dinner in the forest. In addition to pasta and biscuits, Uli stuffs a bottle of wine into her rucksack. She has to squeeze even more into her top ultralight camping equipment. She recognises the irony herself: "It's a light drop," she grins.
The evening light is already shining over the Black Forest High Road, the view sweeps across the Rhine plain as far as France. Now it's not far to Seibelseckle, behind which our next camp site is hidden somewhere in the forest. Wooden platforms make it easier to pitch the tent here, so we are ready for a cup of wine by the campfire in no time at all. But then the realisation hits us: Water? Has someone packed water for cooking? Oh boy. It's Uli who makes sure we don't starve on our last night in the forest. She bravely sets off again to the next source of drinking water. According to the map, however, it's only at the top, at Seibelseckle.
3 stages of trails: bikepacking between Baiersbronn and Sasbachwalden
Day 1: From Tonbach to Gutellbach
- Length: 43.6 kilometres
- Uphill: 1280 metres in altitude
- Downhill: 1243 metres in depth
- Trail difficulty: medium to difficult
Tour description stage 1:
Day 1 is already a full-blown trail circuit that combines some of the best trails around Baiersbronn. It starts with a rooty warm-up lap shortly after Tonbach and continues over the Sattelei to Baiersbronn. This is followed by a loop with steep climbs and descents, then it's off to two idyllic cirque lakes in the national park. At the Sankenbachsee lake, it is worth leaving the bikes for a short while and trudging three minutes to the waterfall of the same name. After a late rest at the Kniebishütte, the fast gravel descent past the Ellbachsee leads to the trekking camp just above Mitteltal.
Highlights Almost every short but sometimes challenging climb is followed by a fun trail descent. The first night in the forest is also a memorable experience.
Day 2: Through the middle and upper valley
- Length: 51.2 kilometres
- Uphill: 1552 metres in altitude
- Downhill: 1311 metres in depth
- Trail difficulty: medium to difficult
Tour description stage 2:
It takes you along the best trails near Mitteltal and Obertal. The tour also leads into the Black Forest National Park. Here, biking is only permitted on the tracks, and detailed information about the protected area is available at the ranger station. After a delicious fish at Forellenhof Buhlbach, the tour climbs in the afternoon. The route heads towards Hochschwarzwaldstraße, where sweeping views across the Rhine plain open up as far as France. Overnight stay near the Seibelseckle.
Highlights The Walterhütten Trail and the Hirschlach Trail near Obertal are among the best nature trails in the region. The national park ranger station provides information about the large protected area through which this route repeatedly crosses.
Day 3: Up the Hornisgrinde
- Length: 44.3 kilometres
- Uphill: 1163 metres in altitude
- Downhill: 1501 metres in depth
- Trail difficulty: medium to difficult
Tour description stage 3:
The tour changes character on the third day. Right at the start, the route heads back up the Hornisgrinde, then towards the Sasbachwalden flow trail. Ambitious mountain bikers will also find many a nice surprise and challenge in the appropriate flow. The first part of the descent from the Hornisgrinde leads along a rocky hiking trail. This is followed by flow fun before the route climbs back up to Mummelsee and turns into a long, but technically relaxed forest trail ride through the national park. A kind of cool-down back to Tonbach.
Highlights The descents via Pfad Zwo and Alpirsbacher Schwarzwald-Trail are super versatile. The ascent to Mummelsee can be shortened by bus at the weekend (see Bike shuttle bus in the info section).
Information about the area
Guided tours, good cycling addresses, shuttle services and trekking camps: Here you can read what you need to know about bikepacking tours in the Black Forest.
The Baiersbronn MTB area
The mountain bike trail network in Baiersbronn covers a total of 400 kilometres, divided into eleven mountain bike tours with up to 33 percent single trails.
The designated day tours are between 13 and 81 kilometres long and are suitable for all ability levels. 63 per cent of these signposted trails are shared by hikers and mountain bikers.
We have put together our three-day tour to include as many of the region's trail highlights as possible. Some sections run along natural forest trails, for which a spirited riding technique is an advantage.
This multi-day tour from Baiersbronn to Sasbachwalden also offers trail fun at its best: >> 3 days of MTB pleasure trails through the northern Black Forest <<
Overnight stay
There are of course plenty of good bed and breakfast accommodation options in the northern Black Forest, but we opted for the simplest category: the trekking camps.
For a small fee, you will be given the exact location of the campsite in the middle of the forest as well as the code for toilets and firewood. You are responsible for everything else, such as food, cooking utensils and water (!).
Full comfort with wellness and a unique tree house sauna is available at the Bike-Hotel Tanne in Tonbach. Further accommodation options can be found on the Baiersbronn website.
Bike shop
If you break down or run out of spare parts on the road, the staff at PhysioCycles in Baiersbronn can help. In addition to bike hire and a good workshop service, the boss also offers physiotherapy.
Alternatively: Sport Frey in Baiersbronn-Klosterreichenbach or the largest bike shop in the region: Gaiser Bikeshop in Mitteltal.
Guided Tours, Driving technique camps & courses
Uli Burkhardt from Uli Outdoor Sport offers MTB tour guiding and riding technique courses in Baiersbronn. His passion for biking is great and palpable. As a trail sponsor, he personally looks after the Walterhütten Trail and the Hirschlach Trail near Obertal.
Bike shuttle bus
In the Sasbachwalden region, a public shuttle bus runs up to the Black Forest High Road at weekends and on public holidays, which also transports 16 bikes in a trailer. Transport is free, but should be booked two days in advance. Tel. 0781/20391265 or by email: dbregiobusbw@deutschebahn.com
Eat well
Baiersbronn is widely recognised as the municipality with the highest density of Michelin-starred restaurants per capita. Many hotels and restaurants in the region run hikers' huts in addition to their main business. Here, the offer ranges from snack platters to sumptuous meals with specialities from the region. The Black Forest gateau is, of course, on every menu.
